Auto blip install and thoughts
#101
10-4, good point, I guess I was thinking too simply, as I've always thought/been taught to be sure to fully depress the clutch so as to not wear it out. I'm probably overthinking it!
#102
This is an old thread, but:
I just finished installing an Autoblip on my 2011. Once the thing was all wired up and powered on, my car wouldn't start. I figured I'd tapped the wrong wires on the clutch sensor (disconnecting the taps going to the clutch sensor wires allowed the car to start), but everything looked good. Finally, I went ahead with the calibration procedure and everything started working. As an EE, I'm still scratching my head over how a device that's passively reading voltage could keep the BCM from knowing that the clutch is down, BUT such is life.
I just finished installing an Autoblip on my 2011. Once the thing was all wired up and powered on, my car wouldn't start. I figured I'd tapped the wrong wires on the clutch sensor (disconnecting the taps going to the clutch sensor wires allowed the car to start), but everything looked good. Finally, I went ahead with the calibration procedure and everything started working. As an EE, I'm still scratching my head over how a device that's passively reading voltage could keep the BCM from knowing that the clutch is down, BUT such is life.
#103
This is an old thread, but:
I just finished installing an Autoblip on my 2011. Once the thing was all wired up and powered on, my car wouldn't start. I figured I'd tapped the wrong wires on the clutch sensor (disconnecting the taps going to the clutch sensor wires allowed the car to start), but everything looked good. Finally, I went ahead with the calibration procedure and everything started working. As an EE, I'm still scratching my head over how a device that's passively reading voltage could keep the BCM from knowing that the clutch is down, BUT such is life.
I just finished installing an Autoblip on my 2011. Once the thing was all wired up and powered on, my car wouldn't start. I figured I'd tapped the wrong wires on the clutch sensor (disconnecting the taps going to the clutch sensor wires allowed the car to start), but everything looked good. Finally, I went ahead with the calibration procedure and everything started working. As an EE, I'm still scratching my head over how a device that's passively reading voltage could keep the BCM from knowing that the clutch is down, BUT such is life.
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David Lively (08-08-2021)
#104
Where'd you put the switch?
I considered just building this thing out of an Arduino, but the time it would take is more valuable than the $400 for the Autoblip. Now, I'm tempted to crack it open and see what sort of questionable design decisions have been made.
Last edited by David Lively; 08-08-2021 at 11:24 PM.
#105
But now I'm hoping I can do it by patching the code in the PCM. My car is on jack stands right now waiting for a new motor, but I'm going to be trying a few things when it's back on the road.
#106
The switch isn't a terrible idea. I find it interesting that they're tapping the OBD-2 port for +12V but using the clutch for ground (in the '08+ instructions). Potential ground loop? Seems unlikely, but so does having this problem to start with. I'm not sure if the clutch signal goes to the BCM or the ECM, pretty sure the ECM is on the other end of the OBD2 port. Tempted to go measure the voltage between the clutch sensor ground and the OBD2 port ground.
Where'd you put the switch?
I considered just building this thing out of an Arduino, but the time it would take is more valuable than the $400 for the Autoblip. Now, I'm tempted to crack it open and see what sort of questionable design decisions have been made.
Where'd you put the switch?
I considered just building this thing out of an Arduino, but the time it would take is more valuable than the $400 for the Autoblip. Now, I'm tempted to crack it open and see what sort of questionable design decisions have been made.
#107
In any case, it'd be an interesting project.
#108
I'd thought about that as well. It'd make the interface a bit more complicated: you'd need vehicle speed as well as knowing which gear you're going into, and a real (fast) tach signal, preferably straight from a coil, rather than what you get over OBD / CAN. Having it work only under braking and assuming that you're going into the next lower gear solves that problem. The biggest challenge I see there is knowing which gear is being selected. You can calculate which gear you are *in* based on the tach and speedo, but for your example of downshifting on the highway, there's no obvious (to me) way to know that you're downshifting rather than upshifting until the shift is complete. There are ways to address that, but it's not something that's going to be simple to wire up or code. (Crazy idea: do it optically. Mount a camera above the shifter, pointed straight down, or two small ones (one on the right of the shifter, one behind or in front of it) and use those to figure out which gear is being selected.) (Or some magnets and Hall effect sensors.)
In any case, it'd be an interesting project.
In any case, it'd be an interesting project.
Clutch + 0% throttle = do nothing
Clutch + 100% throttle = rev match for an upshift
And just assume every shift is one gear.
I my Subaru's ECU to match revs on downshifts just looking at clutch+brake, and upshifts using clutch+fullthrottle, and it works pretty well. The biggest issue is that it sometimes kicks in when I don't want it to. For example if I put the clutch in and brake while approaching a stop - it will rev up momentarily, but it also returns to idle pretty quickly so it's no big deal. Disabling it under 20 mph almost got rid of that. I'm pretty sure that a "5% throttle" condition for downshift rev matching would get it right every time, but I haven't tried that yet. It works pretty well as-is so I haven't been motivated enough to keep tinkering with it.