FASTFATBOY

Most guys know in here I track a Camaro, 3750lbs with 385rwhp on RComp tires.

I ran a C6 setup for almost 3 years on the front. I got 16 sessions out of $40 a piece Brembo blank C6 rotors with Raybestos ST47 front pads.

I ran Carbotech for a while, they were easier on rotors than the Raybestos but didn't have the bite.

I am running the Spec37 slotted rotor on the front. The Wilwood kit # is 140-7190, SL6 Caliper with a 12.88 rotor. I have good cooling on the brakes also.

I pretty much trashed a set of rotors in 9 sessions, I doubt they will make another weekend. I also pad transferred onto them.



What is my alternative here? I can't flush $400 worth of rings a weekend. Go back to Carbotech pads? Drop back to a ST43/H pad?

I called Coleman, the said $130 each to make some rotors for me. Are theirs any better? Who has run both?

All opinions appreciated.

drivinhard

I think the Carbotech pads are the easiest on rotors, but your first set of stats is what is killing you. 12.88" isn't much rotor for 400 hp and ~2 tons

brkntrxn

Agree with Mark.


And those rotors are FAR from being finished.

FASTFATBOY

I have pad transfer on them, brake judder is bad.

I did what Wilwood recommended, I put the race pads back on and am running them cold to "scrub" the transfer off.

Seems to be working.

I have 17 inch wheels, 3 sets and like the cost of 17 inch tires hence the smaller rotor.

At NOLA I was braking at the 350 mark running 140 mph, never been able to do that.

I will go back to Carbotech pads.

brkntrxn

Be careful running a track pad UNDER its operating temp for too long. It will groove a rotor pretty quickly.

I would suggest rebedding them.

FASTFATBOY

Yep, from Wilwood

In order to better understand the likely cause of shudder and/or vibration, please see the above FAQ relating to un-even pad deposition. Obviously, turning the rotors will take care of it, but you will be shortening the life of the rotor and decreasing its ability to absorb and control heat, as there will be less mass in the rotor after turning. We have had very good success running an aggressive track pad at lower temperatures on the street in order to scrub-off the rotor surface. We have found the Polymatrix B race pad to be very effective. At lower temperatures it is very abrasive and does not become adherent until it reaches its optimal operating temperature. If it is used with a few firm stops at a time, not getting too hot so that you only remove material, not transfer more; it will often remove the source of vibration. WARNING: Do not leave an abrasive pad in the caliper longer than necessary to solve the problem. As soon as the problem goes away, change back to your street pad and re-bed them. Your rotors can be destroyed in under a week by leaving the abrasive track pads in on the street. If you have any questions, please contact a Wilwood Sales Technician at 805-388-1188 or email Sales/Tech Support.

Adam@Amp'dAutosport.com

You coming back

dbratten

If with your Brembo $40 rotors you get 16 sessions your rotors are only costing you $10/session for all four. That is cheap. Spending 10x as much on rotors will not give you 160 sessions. All you save is the minor hassle of changing rotors -- possible at the track when one cracks. Just carry spares.

More aggressive pads can be used but decrease rotor and pad life. I have been very pleased with the XP10s for track, autox, and street. I figure as I am not running for money I don't need the longest life enduro brakes -- even if I could afford them, which I can't.

A cheaper way maybe to focus more on your lines and cornering speeds to drop lap times. Beyond that you are making a choice to spend more to go faster. That sucks for all of us.

--Dan

RX-Ben

As was said, those rotors are no where near the end of their life. I'm happy if my rotors look like that. From the rotor's appearance, what is making you think the pads are harsh? There is no grooving and the face of the rotor is still intact.
You are thermally stressing the rotor more with the more aggressive (higher mu) ST-47s, so you will get faster heat checking, but there is no way around that if you want increased braking performance (unless you are able to materially improve brake cooling).

FASTFATBOY

Whatyamean?

FASTFATBOY

Having to brake at the 500 mark kinda sucks, so I upgraded.

I can now brake at the 350 mark, possibly the 300 when I get my head wrapped around it. From 140mph in a 3800lb car, that aint bad.

I will return to Carbotech pads for sure and have some Coleman rotors made and take them as spares.

Adam@Amp'dAutosport.com

I always take care of you I was pissed when I saw you switched but, I may forgive you

FASTFATBOY

Oh yeh, lol.

You bell will be ringing come September.

crease-guard

It's all about heat and if you want better braking, you've got to shell out the dough.

When I bought my car it had Brembos on it, the big 4 pistons in the front and the smaller in the rear. I run a 355 rotor on the front, 345 on the rear. When I first started doing this track thing, I had the stock Brembo rotors. In a little under a year of newbie driving, I noticed big cracks developing. I didn't notice until I looked at the back of the rotors one day and had 2 cracks the went end to end. It's a miracle that rotor didn't explode and served as a good reminder to check the health of my rotors often. Mind you I was still new at this. Then I wanted something better, that would last longer so I purchased the race version of the Brembo rotors. They were the 48 vane version and were $558 a piece...OUCH. I do at least a weekend a month except for July and August and maybe one other month. But I do go out and run sessions on Member days at my track. So I put a lot of time on those rotors...and I was becoming a better, faster driver.

A year later, when I replaced those rotors I had to not because they cracked but because I simply wore them out. The slots on the rotors were almost completely worn gone. But I did notice when I went to the 48 vane rotors, my braking distance was shorter.

I replaced those 48 vane with 72 vane Brembo race rotors for about the same price. The braking improvement was noticeably better. My last run was at COTA and on the back straight doing 145 I was braking around the 225 mark. I tried taking it deeper and I could but the ABS would go nuts and the car get pretty squirrely.

You won't crack $550 rotors (unless you don't cool them) and they will last a long time, relatively speaking.

Yes I have cooling ducts. I run PFC 01 in the front and 08 in the rear.

jstout

My suggestion is try Cobalt pads. they are far more rotor friendly than anything you have mentioned. I run them on my race car, and used them on a very fast TTU Corvette. Had great stopping power but friendly to the rotors. Andy is the owner at Cobalt, but he prefers to get orders on line. If you have trouble, just call them. Jerry

FASTFATBOY

Buying Cobalt pads at their cost would not have any advantage over buying rotor rings.

FASTFATBOY

I found today I cracked the RF rotor all the way to the edge.

Trashed in 9 sessions.

The car has a bad brake vibration on the street, investigated and I found the rotor cracked to the lip.