brake pad compound question, experienced advice appreciated
#21
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Oct 1999
Location: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)
Posts: 40,078
Received 8,919 Likes
on
5,328 Posts
i just got off the phone with cobalt, the guy i talked to was very helpful and brought up a few important points which can affect the rears, all of which i didn't think about
- i do sometimes drive this car to work, with the race pads on it. they never get up to temp and can cause some additional wear. maybe not a huge issue but could affect the life of the pad a little bit.
- a possible rear caliper issue, i was planning on just swapping the rear calipers out for new ones this year anyhow, to my knowledge they work but the boots are burnt off and i am sure they spread a bit. for 130$ each it is cheap insurance. possibly one is sticking although i don't remember any one side wearing much more than the other.
i also learned that cobalt has a higher bite at lower temperatures than the raybestos that i am running, so it was not recommended that i run cobalts in the rear only.. but if i was going to run st43's in the front the xr3 cobalts would be the choice in the rear although like i said not recommended.
i figured i'd update this for future people's searches. i was told that the cobalt xr3 had less bite than the raybestos st43, hence making the xr3 comparable to the st42.
so new rear calipers and a set of xr3's is the plan, when i burn all of my pads up i may try xr2's all around or carbotechs again.. i will update this thread as to how everything works/ matches up.
thanks for the help
- i do sometimes drive this car to work, with the race pads on it. they never get up to temp and can cause some additional wear. maybe not a huge issue but could affect the life of the pad a little bit.
- a possible rear caliper issue, i was planning on just swapping the rear calipers out for new ones this year anyhow, to my knowledge they work but the boots are burnt off and i am sure they spread a bit. for 130$ each it is cheap insurance. possibly one is sticking although i don't remember any one side wearing much more than the other.
i also learned that cobalt has a higher bite at lower temperatures than the raybestos that i am running, so it was not recommended that i run cobalts in the rear only.. but if i was going to run st43's in the front the xr3 cobalts would be the choice in the rear although like i said not recommended.
i figured i'd update this for future people's searches. i was told that the cobalt xr3 had less bite than the raybestos st43, hence making the xr3 comparable to the st42.
so new rear calipers and a set of xr3's is the plan, when i burn all of my pads up i may try xr2's all around or carbotechs again.. i will update this thread as to how everything works/ matches up.
thanks for the help
You are not going to solve the rotor cracking issue unless you use stock or comparable pads. There just isn't enough heat capacity in the stock rotors.
One combination of pads you can run is PFC 01s in front and 99s in the rear. Not the cheapest pad selection but they will work fine. Rears will wear well but you will have to flip the fronts from one side of the car to other (passenger side outer pad becomes driver side inner pad) at the end of each track day. That will help reduce the pad tapering effects that are common with the C5 front calipers.
If you decide on the Wilwood pads run H compound front and rear. The E compound will work in the rear but it is more of an autocross compound than a track compound.
There are some similarities between the Raybestos and Wilwood compounds and Porterfield can advise you on those. For instance on my 08Z with Wilwood W6A front and W4A rear calipers they recommended a machined Raybestos ST47 pad for the front and a Wilwood H pad in the rear calipers. That turned out to be a great combination although the front pads cost me about $100 more than if I had chosen a standard Wilwood pad. When I came into the Bus Stop at the Glen at 150+ mph the car just slowed no fuss no muss. Same for braking from 140- down hill into T1. Did this time after time for 6 track days. For the first time in 5 seasons with the car I didn't have brake problems. Made me very happy.
Bill
#22
good info bill, thanks. once i burn up these pads i will also look into those compounds
carrying spare rotors isn't a huge issue its just a lot of extra weight on my 250 mile trip to the glen or 200 miles to summit point. as of now i always carry 4 rotors. i don't want to miss track time, so i guess it is just part of the sport.
carrying spare rotors isn't a huge issue its just a lot of extra weight on my 250 mile trip to the glen or 200 miles to summit point. as of now i always carry 4 rotors. i don't want to miss track time, so i guess it is just part of the sport.
Last edited by sleeperstyle; 01-31-2014 at 11:55 AM.
#23
Drifting
Driving a pad BELOW its operating temp will do more than just shorten its life a little bit. A LOT of bit. It will also wear abnormal/weird patterns into your rotors. I have done it with PFCs and Carbotechs.
#24
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Oct 1999
Location: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)
Posts: 40,078
Received 8,919 Likes
on
5,328 Posts
If you want to resurface your rotors cold Hawk Blues will do a good job of that. I drove on a 20 mile round trip in village traffic and deposited quite a bit of my new rotors on the wheels. Nice grey color powder until it rained the next day and the powder turned red.
Bill
Bill
#25
Race Director
#26
Former Vendor
Had a customer run some Wilwood J pads on a truck for AX use one time. Had to claybar the entire white truck the next week to get the particulates off it after driving home in the rain...and he needed new rotors not long after. Best I could say was "told ya not to do that" but he was impressed how well it worked.
#27
Melting Slicks
I was searching/reading and ran across this post.
This product is amazing, it also comes in paste.
I bought a set of track C5 Zo6 wheels with metal embedded into the clear coat, this stuff took it out, it eats/oxidizes metal without harming paint.
http://www.autogeek.net/carpro-iron-...FewDOgod6jQAyg
If the metal is heavy, use the paste.
Also works on paint
This product is amazing, it also comes in paste.
I bought a set of track C5 Zo6 wheels with metal embedded into the clear coat, this stuff took it out, it eats/oxidizes metal without harming paint.
http://www.autogeek.net/carpro-iron-...FewDOgod6jQAyg
If the metal is heavy, use the paste.
Also works on paint
#28
Drifting
The only time I've had an issue with Carbotech brake dust is when I didn't clean my wheels for almost two months after a track day. Then it was harder to get off but with a brillow pad it still came off.
Normally if I wash them when I get home it comes off pretty easy.
Never tried Hawks but my buddy runs them on his M3 and it comes right off for him.
Normally if I wash them when I get home it comes off pretty easy.
Never tried Hawks but my buddy runs them on his M3 and it comes right off for him.
#29
#30
Drifting
Continental GT-R scrubs from Todd @ GT Racing Tires. pretty good combo. I really liked the Carbotech xp12/10 combination when I tried it. They just don't last long enough for me.
#31
Melting Slicks
#32
Drifting
#33
Melting Slicks
I am running Carbotech XP12/10's on the street. They work phenomenally, but create tons of dust. The side of my car is always dirty from the front brakes. I've learned to live with it.
However, I didn't realize they were that bad for the rotors and pad life/wear when using them on the street. Is this something I should be concerned about? What does Carbotech say about it? Any truth to it?
However, I didn't realize they were that bad for the rotors and pad life/wear when using them on the street. Is this something I should be concerned about? What does Carbotech say about it? Any truth to it?
#34
Drifting
I am running Carbotech XP12/10's on the street. They work phenomenally, but create tons of dust. The side of my car is always dirty from the front brakes. I've learned to live with it.
However, I didn't realize they were that bad for the rotors and pad life/wear when using them on the street. Is this something I should be concerned about? What does Carbotech say about it? Any truth to it?
However, I didn't realize they were that bad for the rotors and pad life/wear when using them on the street. Is this something I should be concerned about? What does Carbotech say about it? Any truth to it?
If you don't trust my opinion from personal experience, I can ask Danny (his family owns Carbotech) tonight when we go to the TORC race.
#35
#36
Drifting
#37
Drifting
Last summer, we ran a four hour enduro at Road Atlanta with my car. At that time, it was in non-aero ST3 trim with stock calipers and two piece DBA rotors up front with brake ducts AND brake fans. We started on brand new Carbotech XP20s and at the 3.5 hour mark my codriver brought the car in on backing plates and a ruined front caliper.
I had checked them at the 2.5 hour mark and thought they would make the entire race. I was wrong.
I should have changed pads at the 3 hour mark OR ran a less aggressive pad like an XP10 or RP2.
#38
Drifting
For the record, I asked Danny and Chris tonight about running pads UNDER their range of operating temps and they echoed my exact statements about prematurely wearing the pads and rotors.
#39
Drifting
I am running Carbotech XP12/10's on the street. They work phenomenally, but create tons of dust. The side of my car is always dirty from the front brakes. I've learned to live with it.
However, I didn't realize they were that bad for the rotors and pad life/wear when using them on the street. Is this something I should be concerned about? What does Carbotech say about it? Any truth to it?
However, I didn't realize they were that bad for the rotors and pad life/wear when using them on the street. Is this something I should be concerned about? What does Carbotech say about it? Any truth to it?
#40
Supporting Vendor
Member Since: Oct 2002
Location: Cleveland OH
Posts: 50,209
Received 490 Likes
on
417 Posts
St. Jude Donor '11,'13
I am running Carbotech XP12/10's on the street. They work phenomenally, but create tons of dust. The side of my car is always dirty from the front brakes. I've learned to live with it.
However, I didn't realize they were that bad for the rotors and pad life/wear when using them on the street. Is this something I should be concerned about? What does Carbotech say about it? Any truth to it?
However, I didn't realize they were that bad for the rotors and pad life/wear when using them on the street. Is this something I should be concerned about? What does Carbotech say about it? Any truth to it?
The Carbotech™ 1521™ is our high performance street compound. The 1521™ compound is known for its release and modulation, along with unmatched rotor friendliness. 1521™ is also a very low dusting and low noise compound with an excellent initial bite. This compound's excellent linear torque production provides incredible braking force without ABS intervention. Carbotech™ 1521™ operating range starts out at ambient and goes up to 800°F (426°C+). 1521™ is suitable for ALL street cars, perfect for your tow vehicle or fleet vehicle. Carbotech™ 1521™ is NOT recommended for ANY track use.
__________________
Adam Adelstein
Amp’D Autosport.com
Internet's largest retailer of Carbotech Performance Brake Pads.
PH:216-780-8825.
Email: sales@ampdautosport.com
Web Site & Direct ordering http://ampdautosport.com/
All major CC and Pay Pal accepted.
Check out Promo code:z28
Adam Adelstein
Amp’D Autosport.com
Internet's largest retailer of Carbotech Performance Brake Pads.
PH:216-780-8825.
Email: sales@ampdautosport.com
Web Site & Direct ordering http://ampdautosport.com/
All major CC and Pay Pal accepted.
Check out Promo code:z28