How much do brake ducts help?
12-01-2013, 02:09 AM
#21
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Yeah, I always do a full cool down lap. My last lap is a good 10-15 seconds slower than my regular pace.
I'm going to give the ducts a whirl and see what happens.
I'm going to give the ducts a whirl and see what happens.
12-01-2013, 09:05 PM
#22
I once saw a rotor crack while I was taking air pressures and temps b/c I just stopped at my trailer. So frustrating seeing a $600 pair of rotors trashed just b/c I didn't do extra cool down.
12-06-2013, 09:27 PM
#23
I have gone through similar progression to what Bill has described earlier, with similar results (i.e. ducting was making little difference).
Some thoughts/conclusions based on my C5Z ownership (I did probably 80-90 days before I sold the car, and fought with brake temps for most of the time I owned it):
Run good, scratch that, VERY GOOD rotors - and bring spares. Ideally 2 piece, slotted, made out of high quality material - Brembo, AP, etc. I ended up running DBA 5000 (cheaper) with good results. Racing Brake has been offering some good 2 piece stuff too, if you are looking to avoid paying "euro motorsport" prices
if you can upsize your rotors, run the largest ones you can fit.
Cool down laps, like others said.
Consider cutting larger inlets for the ducting or taking air from the front grille opening. If you run front splitter, inlets must be above the splitter, and any part that protrudes forward and creates "splitter" effect.
I think that factory C5 openings are too small and positioned too far to the sides, while ZR1/C6Z duct inlets, while a step in the right direction, are too short and do not get enough air IN since they are below the "lip" which forms the bottom of front grille opening - and too far to the sides. If I were to develop the ducting for C6, I would start with C6Z configuration, but taller inlets, cutting into that lip above them. It would be ugly, but it would work.
Look where C5/C6 R cars get the air for front brake cooling. Nothing like most "enthusiast kits" out there.
Some thoughts/conclusions based on my C5Z ownership (I did probably 80-90 days before I sold the car, and fought with brake temps for most of the time I owned it):
Run good, scratch that, VERY GOOD rotors - and bring spares. Ideally 2 piece, slotted, made out of high quality material - Brembo, AP, etc. I ended up running DBA 5000 (cheaper) with good results. Racing Brake has been offering some good 2 piece stuff too, if you are looking to avoid paying "euro motorsport" prices
if you can upsize your rotors, run the largest ones you can fit.
Cool down laps, like others said.
Consider cutting larger inlets for the ducting or taking air from the front grille opening. If you run front splitter, inlets must be above the splitter, and any part that protrudes forward and creates "splitter" effect.
I think that factory C5 openings are too small and positioned too far to the sides, while ZR1/C6Z duct inlets, while a step in the right direction, are too short and do not get enough air IN since they are below the "lip" which forms the bottom of front grille opening - and too far to the sides. If I were to develop the ducting for C6, I would start with C6Z configuration, but taller inlets, cutting into that lip above them. It would be ugly, but it would work.
Look where C5/C6 R cars get the air for front brake cooling. Nothing like most "enthusiast kits" out there.
12-06-2013, 11:35 PM
#24
Drifting
Longdaddy and I have separate approaches (no disrespect intended). I've tracked c6s and c5s. I now race a c5. Imo ducting isn't that helpful, at least for the type tracks I run, which don't have big straights. I think the best bang for the buck is napa premium rotors or kns; granted you lose some weight savings vs two piece rotors but I've had them last for many track weekends (maybe 10 or 12 plus). I've cracked autozone rotors within 3 days.
I always come off track, park, and after 30 seconds move the car enough so the pad isnt on the same part of the rotor.
I always come off track, park, and after 30 seconds move the car enough so the pad isnt on the same part of the rotor.
12-10-2013, 02:52 PM
#25
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Sep 2003
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As others has written, brake cooling ducts are very important for improving the performance of your brake system at any track event.
I use Quantum Motorsports front brake cooling ducts. The following picture shows how their duct attaches to the front knuckle:
Also, my track experience suggests that you may want to change your brake pads for optimum performance. Before I changed to my BREMBO C6 ZR1 carbon-ceramic brakes, I use to run Hawk DTC 70 front pads and DTC 60 rear pads. These hawk pads will make your C6 Z51 stop like you threw out an anchor.
Good luck with your decision.
-
I use Quantum Motorsports front brake cooling ducts. The following picture shows how their duct attaches to the front knuckle:
Also, my track experience suggests that you may want to change your brake pads for optimum performance. Before I changed to my BREMBO C6 ZR1 carbon-ceramic brakes, I use to run Hawk DTC 70 front pads and DTC 60 rear pads. These hawk pads will make your C6 Z51 stop like you threw out an anchor.
Good luck with your decision.
-
Last edited by Pumba; 12-11-2013 at 04:33 PM.
12-11-2013, 11:23 AM
#26
Longdaddy and I have separate approaches (no disrespect intended). I've tracked c6s and c5s. I now race a c5. Imo ducting isn't that helpful, at least for the type tracks I run, which don't have big straights. I think the best bang for the buck is napa premium rotors or kns; granted you lose some weight savings vs two piece rotors but I've had them last for many track weekends (maybe 10 or 12 plus). I've cracked autozone rotors within 3 days.
I always come off track, park, and after 30 seconds move the car enough so the pad isnt on the same part of the rotor.
I always come off track, park, and after 30 seconds move the car enough so the pad isnt on the same part of the rotor.
from cost effectiveness perspective, I would do (and for a long time did) the same.
If I were to drive a C5 or floating caliper C6, in competition I would upgrade to the highest quality caliper and rotor the class rules allow. Cool down laps are great, but I would not want to put myself in a situation where I am leading a race, and a sudden full course black or red forces me to get parked without cooling down, so I then crack the NAPA rotor (believe me I have accumulated quite a collection of those) and lose my position on a restart! If I am racing a class where I cannot afford highest quality/reliability equipment rules allow, over time, I will not be winning as much as a racer who does (and drives as well as I do). Why give up an advantage to someone else?
when it comes to track days, I simply got tired of changing my "cheap" rotors on the track as they cracked, so I went to higher quality calipers and rotors.
12-14-2013, 09:13 AM
#27
Pro
If you are going to agressively track your car, the brakes need all the help they can get ! Front ducting will help A LOT in terms of keeping the brakes cool and not boiling the fluid. The BEST high temp fluid - Motul or similar, not just a good fluid. Full track compound pads such as the Wilwood H compound and stailness steel braided replacement brake lines finish out the package. These mods will give you great performing and reliable brakes on a dual purpose street / track car.
Others will dispute this, but in my opinion, just run your track pads all the time. They will work fine for normally driven street usage. I ran Wilwood H race pads for three years on the street in all seasons before the car became an exclusive track car.
Others will dispute this, but in my opinion, just run your track pads all the time. They will work fine for normally driven street usage. I ran Wilwood H race pads for three years on the street in all seasons before the car became an exclusive track car.
Track pads will squeal so be prepared for people to tell you that you need brakes when they hear you pull up (I started to respond with "but I really like the sound")
If you eventually go the HP+ route, get the full pads, not the padlets.
I had the padlets and I swear every one of them squealed at a different pitch. It was like listening to a second grade fluteophone concert.
I really believe a good set of ducts are a must. I think my pads seem to last longer as well, but I have nothing to prove that. You can install them now or wait until you have and "experience" then I promise you will do it.
12-15-2013, 05:23 PM
#28
Drifting
from cost effectiveness perspective, I would do (and for a long time did) the same.
If I were to drive a C5 or floating caliper C6, in competition I would upgrade to the highest quality caliper and rotor the class rules allow. Cool down laps are great, but I would not want to put myself in a situation where I am leading a race, and a sudden full course black or red forces me to get parked without cooling down, so I then crack the NAPA rotor (believe me I have accumulated quite a collection of those) and lose my position on a restart! If I am racing a class where I cannot afford highest quality/reliability equipment rules allow, over time, I will not be winning as much as a racer who does (and drives as well as I do). Why give up an advantage to someone else?
when it comes to track days, I simply got tired of changing my "cheap" rotors on the track as they cracked, so I went to higher quality calipers and rotors.
If I were to drive a C5 or floating caliper C6, in competition I would upgrade to the highest quality caliper and rotor the class rules allow. Cool down laps are great, but I would not want to put myself in a situation where I am leading a race, and a sudden full course black or red forces me to get parked without cooling down, so I then crack the NAPA rotor (believe me I have accumulated quite a collection of those) and lose my position on a restart! If I am racing a class where I cannot afford highest quality/reliability equipment rules allow, over time, I will not be winning as much as a racer who does (and drives as well as I do). Why give up an advantage to someone else?
when it comes to track days, I simply got tired of changing my "cheap" rotors on the track as they cracked, so I went to higher quality calipers and rotors.
12-15-2013, 05:33 PM
#29
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Well, I got new pads (DCT30) and fluid (Motoul 660). Rotors were fine.
I got to the track and....
my boss showed up in his 997 turbo so I drove that
So who should I buy these ducts from and what brand/version should I be looking at?
I got to the track and....
my boss showed up in his 997 turbo so I drove that
So who should I buy these ducts from and what brand/version should I be looking at?
Last edited by village idiot; 12-15-2013 at 05:36 PM.