HPDE alignment specs
#1
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HPDE alignment specs
[ATTACH][/ATTACH]Getting prepared for my first HPDE at Daytona and was looking for input on my alignment
2012 GS m6 with 15 k miles and Michelin pilot super sports ( non run flats) also have old tires/ rims Goodyear with only 4/32 tread left sitting off to the side....need to burn them up.
Last alignment was July at 9k miles. Will be doing all 3 days in Daytona, should I change the alignment?
2012 GS m6 with 15 k miles and Michelin pilot super sports ( non run flats) also have old tires/ rims Goodyear with only 4/32 tread left sitting off to the side....need to burn them up.
Last alignment was July at 9k miles. Will be doing all 3 days in Daytona, should I change the alignment?
#3
Race Director
with Ernie's comments - you'll be fine with that.
As he says, more negative camber will help as you start to drive the car harder.
Also, you've got a little toe-out up front, and that's good for a better turn-in.
However, you've also got a very tiny bit of toe-out in the rear, and generally you'd like a slight bit of toe-in for the rear to keep the rear tires planted a little better when accelerating during track out.
But, you've got such a slight amount that I wouldn't worry about it for this event.
C'ya at the track in about 10 days!!
Bob
As he says, more negative camber will help as you start to drive the car harder.
Also, you've got a little toe-out up front, and that's good for a better turn-in.
However, you've also got a very tiny bit of toe-out in the rear, and generally you'd like a slight bit of toe-in for the rear to keep the rear tires planted a little better when accelerating during track out.
But, you've got such a slight amount that I wouldn't worry about it for this event.
C'ya at the track in about 10 days!!
Bob
#4
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Thanks. Level is newbie to HPDE but not scared to drive or push the car, either.
If it will be ok I probably will leave it alone for this event, especially if I need to change it back for the street...part time daily driver.
If it will be ok I probably will leave it alone for this event, especially if I need to change it back for the street...part time daily driver.
#5
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with Ernie's comments - you'll be fine with that.
As he says, more negative camber will help as you start to drive the car harder.
Also, you've got a little toe-out up front, and that's good for a better turn-in.
However, you've also got a very tiny bit of toe-out in the rear, and generally you'd like a slight bit of toe-in for the rear to keep the rear tires planted a little better when accelerating during track out.
But, you've got such a slight amount that I wouldn't worry about it for this event.
C'ya at the track in about 10 days!!
Bob
As he says, more negative camber will help as you start to drive the car harder.
Also, you've got a little toe-out up front, and that's good for a better turn-in.
However, you've also got a very tiny bit of toe-out in the rear, and generally you'd like a slight bit of toe-in for the rear to keep the rear tires planted a little better when accelerating during track out.
But, you've got such a slight amount that I wouldn't worry about it for this event.
C'ya at the track in about 10 days!!
Bob
Bob,
His total rear toe is shown as a slight amount of toe out. The car may feel less twitchy and on the edge if he actually had some toe in. I know I like to have around 1/32 at each wheel (~.07 degrees) or 1/16 total toe in for the rear. If I was doing the alignment I would tweak the alignment so both rear wheels were toed in and the thrust angle remained 0. Can't limit the adjustment to the left rear if he wants to keep the 0 thrust angle. Well maybe since the thrust is -.01 he could get by with changing the left rear so the thrust went to .01. Just a slight difference in which the steering wheel is pointed when going straight ahead.
Bill
Last edited by Bill Dearborn; 11-26-2013 at 02:46 PM.