Permanently removing evap charcoal canister
#1
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Permanently removing evap charcoal canister
After my cage install the evap charcoal canister has to go. I have heard of people just unhooking it and tuning out the codes and that's it. I'm worried about a full tank of fuel and high g-forces and fuel running out of the line or worse, a roll over and fuel running out. I found this pic on the forum and want to confirm a few things.
(1)EVAP Canister Purge Solenoid
(2)EVAP Canister
(3)Fuel Fill Neck/Fill Cap
(4)Rollover Valve/Fuel Tank Pressure (FTP) Sensor
(5)Fuel Tank
(6)EVAP Canister Vent Solenoid
(7)Vent Hose/Pipe
(8)EVAP Vapor Pipe
(9)EVAP Purge Pipe
(10)EVAP Service Port
Looking at #4 (Rollover Valve/Fuel Tank Pressure (FTP) Sensor), will this prevent any fuel from coming out of the tank? My car is a 2004, does this apply to my car, I know it has a little different fuel system than earlier years.
My plan right now is to leave the lines that went to the canister unhooked and open to the atmosphere, cap the line at the intake manifold, and tune out the codes. Is the fuel cap vented to the atmosphere? If so, I could cap all of the lines and the tank would vent through the fuel cap.
I'm about to put the fuel tanks back in and don't want to have to go back in and mess with anything in the future. I also don't want to create a safety/fire hazard.
Thanks
(1)EVAP Canister Purge Solenoid
(2)EVAP Canister
(3)Fuel Fill Neck/Fill Cap
(4)Rollover Valve/Fuel Tank Pressure (FTP) Sensor
(5)Fuel Tank
(6)EVAP Canister Vent Solenoid
(7)Vent Hose/Pipe
(8)EVAP Vapor Pipe
(9)EVAP Purge Pipe
(10)EVAP Service Port
Looking at #4 (Rollover Valve/Fuel Tank Pressure (FTP) Sensor), will this prevent any fuel from coming out of the tank? My car is a 2004, does this apply to my car, I know it has a little different fuel system than earlier years.
My plan right now is to leave the lines that went to the canister unhooked and open to the atmosphere, cap the line at the intake manifold, and tune out the codes. Is the fuel cap vented to the atmosphere? If so, I could cap all of the lines and the tank would vent through the fuel cap.
I'm about to put the fuel tanks back in and don't want to have to go back in and mess with anything in the future. I also don't want to create a safety/fire hazard.
Thanks
#2
Race Director
My C4 Canisterectomy thread may help. I capped the lines at the tank and let the fuel cap do the venting. I did try a roll over valve on the line at first. I would think your fuel cap is vented, turn it over and look, there will be a very obvious valve on the bottom. Pic in my thread:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...terectomy.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...terectomy.html
#4
Safety Car
Under the hood I have the line on the firewall capped and the port on the manifold capped. The bendy line etc. is removed. Out back I just left those two lines vented to the atmosphere and loosely ziptied in place. I have never smelled fuel and never seen any evidence of a leak. I even removed that rubber close out flap to check up on them. I have any evap related codes turned off.
The skinny plastic line that connects the tanks and runs up along the fuel filler neck is a pressure vent. However, I'm pretty sure it's sealed when the gas cap is in place. That's why you can get a MIL if the gas cap isn't installed properly.
On the passenger side tanks you have the two lines that went to the cannister.
The skinny plastic line that connects the tanks and runs up along the fuel filler neck is a pressure vent. However, I'm pretty sure it's sealed when the gas cap is in place. That's why you can get a MIL if the gas cap isn't installed properly.
On the passenger side tanks you have the two lines that went to the cannister.
Last edited by travisnd; 02-17-2012 at 09:32 AM.
#6
84' C4. Does anyone have pictures or diagrams for the E-vap canister vac hose connections going out from the top and bottom of the canister. Also, there are two vac lines that come off the frame rail, the vac line in front has a "t " and one end is not connected ?? I really appreciate any help.
Thanks
Forrest Wiley
Thanks
Forrest Wiley
#8
Safety Car
Under the hood I have the line on the firewall capped and the port on the manifold capped. The bendy line etc. is removed. Out back I just left those two lines vented to the atmosphere and loosely ziptied in place. I have never smelled fuel and never seen any evidence of a leak. I even removed that rubber close out flap to check up on them. I have any evap related codes turned off.
The skinny plastic line that connects the tanks and runs up along the fuel filler neck is a pressure vent. However, I'm pretty sure it's sealed when the gas cap is in place. That's why you can get a MIL if the gas cap isn't installed properly.
On the passenger side tanks you have the two lines that went to the cannister.
The skinny plastic line that connects the tanks and runs up along the fuel filler neck is a pressure vent. However, I'm pretty sure it's sealed when the gas cap is in place. That's why you can get a MIL if the gas cap isn't installed properly.
On the passenger side tanks you have the two lines that went to the cannister.
#9
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I am reviving this thread as I am in the same situation. My evap canister won't fit back in its original location after the rollcage is installed.
I was wondering if I could just cut and shorten the evap canister to keep everything else working as is.
As all the picture from travisind are now missing from this thread, I am not sure which solution to go with. Any advice?
I was wondering if I could just cut and shorten the evap canister to keep everything else working as is.
As all the picture from travisind are now missing from this thread, I am not sure which solution to go with. Any advice?
#11
Racer
Here's a solution we have for older cars never equipped with evap systems.
It will work on late models as an evap system replacement to reduce gas smell in the garage and let you use your factory cap.
http://blog.iimuchfabrication.com
It will work on late models as an evap system replacement to reduce gas smell in the garage and let you use your factory cap.
http://blog.iimuchfabrication.com
#12
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Also someone mentioned a risk in case of a rollover. Is that something to worry about?
#16
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Check with David Farmer. He just did mine and put an inline check valve on the vent line so fuel could not run out. I ran VIR this past weekend with no issues and no codes.
#17
Melting Slicks
Mine are currently capped, and I can't get fuel in the car and it vapor locks 5 laps deep with the gas cap on. Are you running check valves on the two lines? And do you think I could get to them through the wheel well?
#18
Safety Car
That's why you can't get fuel int he car and are having issues. Pull the RR wheel and open up that rubber flap and un-cap them. I've never had any issues i.e fuel sloshing out or smell or anything. Granted I've never turned the fuel tank upside down to see what would happen, but if you look at the pictures there's a random vent in the center of the tank already that has no hose and goes to nothing. I don't know if it has an integrated check valve or not though.
#19
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Here is the info I got from David Farmer:
just tied everything together with PEX plumbing fittings, then ran this in a vent line as high as possible. It will let air in and out, but has a spring-loaded ball valve that closes in case of rollover
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/abt-tf210/overview/
just tied everything together with PEX plumbing fittings, then ran this in a vent line as high as possible. It will let air in and out, but has a spring-loaded ball valve that closes in case of rollover
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/abt-tf210/overview/
#20
Melting Slicks
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I have taken a RH fuel tank and tipped it upside down (both 02 and an 04), if the check valve works then nothing comes out if the check valve is bad you've got fuel on your shoes.
You can remove the charcoal canister and just leave the rubber hose hanging there open to the atmosphere - you need it open so the car will fill up. Otherwise you end up with vapor lock like z06801.
The way to be sure if your cars check valve is working properly is to fill the tanks up all the way. If fuel comes out of the fill everything is as it should be, if it runs out by the RR tire then the rollover/vapor valve is stuck and you need a new tank (you can't just replace the valve it's part of the tank, and I couldn't find a suitable replacement.)
You can remove the charcoal canister and just leave the rubber hose hanging there open to the atmosphere - you need it open so the car will fill up. Otherwise you end up with vapor lock like z06801.
The way to be sure if your cars check valve is working properly is to fill the tanks up all the way. If fuel comes out of the fill everything is as it should be, if it runs out by the RR tire then the rollover/vapor valve is stuck and you need a new tank (you can't just replace the valve it's part of the tank, and I couldn't find a suitable replacement.)