travisnd

I'm going to do some futher updates to my car over the next wo months. I never use comp mode and my yaw sensor is bad. Can I just remove the yaw sensor and lateral G sensor from the car and turn the MIL codes off in the computer?

Does the ABS system use them at all? I'd like to keep ABS working normally.

Is there a way to make the car default into "everything off" mode so I don't have to keep the TCS/AH buttom in the car?

Jason

When I first brought my car back to life after the cage, I left them out. I had a blue million electrical issues so I put them back in just to eliminate 1 area of possible problems. I really don't think they were part of the problem. I keep meaning to unplug it for a session but I keep forgetting. Try it and let us know. I've heard both sides.

FlamingZ06

Disconnecting the yaw and/or lateral g sensor will throw a code in the ABS, but will not disable it. That will disable AH, but not traction control. You could disable traction control by severing the serial data link between the EBCM and the ECU. ABS will remain functional. If you put a switch on that wire, you could turn it on/off as desired.

There may be other ways to do it, but I don't feel like thinking that hard right now.

Oh, you could install a TDR (time delay relay) that would actuate in place of the TC/AH switch to turn everything off every time you start the car.

travisnd

Sounds more complicated then just leaving the stuff in there and keeping my AH/TCS button.

Kubs

If I am not mistaken the YAW and Acceleration sensors also work with the ABS. They need to know what position the car is in when it senses a wheel lockup so it can distribute the pressure properly.

travisnd

Hmmm... well my yaw sensor has been throwing codes for awhile now with no ill effects. Flashes "SERVICE ACTIVE HANDLING" when I start the car. I hit reset on the DIC then turn off AH/TCS and all works fine.

I think it only needs that info if you are using active handling or traction control.

mgarfias

In 2002 i had my yaw sensor go out, autox'd it anyway, and ABS worked fine.

edcmat-l1

I think I can do it. Need to do a little research first, but I think I can do it. It will take some creative programming.

geerookie

Yes you can remove them without impacting ABS.
Once you remove them you will get an AH/TC warning message in the DIC. I haven't figured out a way to stop it yet....
There are no MIL trips so there is nothing to turn off here. MIL trips are only for emissions related codes.

You can also remove the AH/TC button since it doesn't really disable traction control anyway. I have removed all the computers from my car except for the PCM and EBCM and all sensors and switches except for the wheel speed sensors and the traction control still works in extreme conditions like on a dyno or going over a hill while turning right at 100mph or in the rain.

Do not cut the serial tie between the PCM and EBCM in order to disable TC as this will not only effect the ABS performance but it will also disable your Dynamic Rear Proportioning in the EBCM and will more than likely cause excessive rear wheel lock ups when braking before a corner from high speed and will make realistic trail braking near impossible. DRP was a new feature in '01 and later Vettes. In the '97 - sometime in '00 they quit using the typical biasing spring and went to the DRP system. It works very well so don't mess with it. I do wish I could crack the code so I could "tweak" its algorithm but that is for when I have more time on my hands.

I did finally figure out how to disable Traction Control COMPLETELY without hurting or crippling any other functions.

There are three wires on the brake light switch under the dash at the top of the pedal.
The orange one is +12v supply voltage.
The white one is used to tell your 4 rear (left and right) brake lights to come on.
The light blue one tells the EBCM that you are pushing the brake pedal. It lights the center mount brake light and also tells the Throttle Acuator Control (TAC) that you are on the brakes.
This wire and it's circuit are monitored by the EBCM.
You can trick the EBCM with a switch and set a C1294 or C1295 code and completely disable TCS without hurting ABS or DRP.
You have to be careful where you put the switch in order to trick the system properly.
The lt. blue wire goes from the brake pedal switch to the fuse panel under the hood. From there the circuit splits to the TAC, the EBCM and the center mount brake light. You want to insert a switch in the path to the EBCM, the wire remains lt. blue to the EBCM.
When the circuit monitor sees the circuit open it will set a code and disable TCS but nothing else. Then when you flip the switch back the monitor sees the circuit restored and you will have TCS working again.
I have tested this on the dyno and in the rain. It works great.

geerookie

Nope...... ABS is brakes only. When the EBCM sees a brake pedal push TCS/VSES is disabled. Try doing a burnout with nannies on then just touch the brake pedal enough to light the brake lights and it will stop trying to control wheel spin.

The EBCM in conjuction with the YAW sensor and the accelerometer are used for TCS and VSES also. When TCS/VSES are enabled the EBCM uses the pump and brake line pressure to control rear wheel speeds to help stabilize the yaw.

Kubs

I stand corrected. Thanks!

travisnd

Thanks for the input Greg... wish you lived closer so I could buy you some beer and let you educate me on the electronics in person

If I simply remove the yaw sensor, lateral G sensor and the TCS/AH button what mode will the car be in when I start it up? Will it default to everything off and let the ABS work? Or, do I have to do the switch int he lt. blue wire as you described to disable the TCS?

geerookie

You will be in
AH Off
ABS On
TCS Working

My daughter used to go to school down there and I was in the area all the time. Not so much any more. Once or twice a year for work. I'll try to remember to let you know the next time I'm headed that way. You can pick whatever is left out of my brain
And you are free to call me whenever.

travisnd

So removing it all and installing a switch in the line you mentioned will do what I want... permanently disable AH/TCS w/o having to push anything.

I have a buddy who's very good with wiring/electronics (he services coast guard electronics and radar systems for a living). I'll have to get him over and let him look at the wires you've described.

geerookie

If I have some time this weekend I will take mine back apart and take a picture to show you where and how to splice the wire.

Gray Ghost GS

travisnd, now you got the best LSx tuner and programmer working on a solution. Sweet!

Ed successfully solved my F55 removal DIC code and message issues that related to the EBCM, etc.

100% perfect solution. Give Ed a call.

travisnd

Yeah I ping'd Ed on LS1tech. He's tuned a few of my C5s including the current race car.

FlamingZ06

Yes, you are mistaken.

FlamingZ06

I'm pretty sure I could design an elegant solution with about $1.50 worth of electronics. If enough people were willing to pay enough money (say $100 each) to have this feature, I would take the time to construct it. When the car is started, the device would simply wait for a specified period (long enough for the initial diagnostics to clear), then it would complete the circuit as if you pushed the traction control switch, and maintain that long enough to turn off AH and TC, then go passive until the next ignition cycle. It could be placed in parallel with the TC switch, and an activation switch placed in line that would disable it's function when you want your nannies back.

FlamingZ06

I like your solution, but frankly, you are wrong about the serial link. The ECU in my race car does not have a serial bus, and is not connected to the EBCM, and the ABS and DP work fine.
A loss of serial DTC will not disable ABS or DP, and does not degrade ABS performance (why would it?).