Non detergent oil or synthetic oil for engine break in?
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Non detergent oil or synthetic oil for engine break in?
Hey guys, I need your help. I pulled my LS1 out of my race car. The motor had 127K on it. I have rebuilt it. My question is, I'm about to fire it up. Do I use non detergent oil or use what I always use Mobil 1 synthetic? What is your start up procedure when you have a fresh rebuild or new motor in your race car. The parts on the motor are all stock. I just added ARP hardware, Katech rod bolts and timing chain. The block was balanced and blue printed. So I went this far with the best intent for longevity and reliability. I don't want to skip an important step. I put this in this section, because you guys always know whats best.
Thanks guys,
Thanks guys,
Last edited by Paul Schmidt; 10-23-2011 at 10:11 PM.
#3
Race Director
Member Since: Sep 2004
Location: Cypress TX
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St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18
Amsoil has a break-in oil that you should take a look at.
https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/brk.aspx
Let me know if you need help finding a dealer.
Bill
https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/brk.aspx
Let me know if you need help finding a dealer.
Bill
Last edited by Bills Z06; 10-24-2011 at 07:31 AM.
#4
Race Director
What does your builder want you to do? Mine said to use normal oil, get the engine warmed up and dump it. Then another run of normal oil and drive it some. After that switch to synthetic. I used normal 5-30 Quaker State, it was on sale.
#6
Tech Contributor
Doug,
You want a non-synthetic oil for break-in. It is always a good idea to turn over the motor several times without letting it fire. Remove coil wires, or spark plug wires, hook up a battery charger (so as not to run down the car's battery), and crank. Listen for grinding or other problem sounds. Meanwhile, if you can watch oil pressure come up, all the better.
Oil pressure up, no grinding or thumping - should be good to go.
Ed
You want a non-synthetic oil for break-in. It is always a good idea to turn over the motor several times without letting it fire. Remove coil wires, or spark plug wires, hook up a battery charger (so as not to run down the car's battery), and crank. Listen for grinding or other problem sounds. Meanwhile, if you can watch oil pressure come up, all the better.
Oil pressure up, no grinding or thumping - should be good to go.
Ed
#8
Suckin' gas, haulin' ass.
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You didn't mention whether you bored and honed it or just had it rehoned, or if the cylinders were touched at all. New rings? New pistons? Most of the break in process is to flatten out the microscopic ridges left after a honing. This also wears the rings a bit and seats them. For that, you want to use a high zinc oil. I used Joe Gibbs break in oil. As far as breaking the motor in, you don't want to rev the crap out of it, but speed up and let the motor slow you down. IE, put it in 2nd and go up to 5500 rpm, and let off the gas and let it coast in 2nd until 1500-2000 rpm. That's probably the most common break-in procedure I've heard of and that's the one I used on my motor.
#9
Racer
Thread Starter
Another question.
Thanks for the help guys I went with Joe Gibbs. I changed the oil after the first start up and break in. I have put Joe Gibbs break in oil back in again. I have a track day tomorrow. Is this oil going to be alright to use or should I go with Mobil 1? The car has about 60 miles on the second oil change with the Joe Gibbs. Again, thanks for your help. I really looking forward to tomorrow.
#10
Burning Brakes
Thanks for the help guys I went with Joe Gibbs. I changed the oil after the first start up and break in. I have put Joe Gibbs break in oil back in again. I have a track day tomorrow. Is this oil going to be alright to use or should I go with Mobil 1? The car has about 60 miles on the second oil change with the Joe Gibbs. Again, thanks for your help. I really looking forward to tomorrow.
#11
Racer
Thread Starter
Joe Gibbs is the ticket for break-in with its high ZDDP content. How many total miles do you have after the rebuild? 60 is not enough before tracking it. Some suggest 2000 to 3000 miles before switching to a synthetic. However, very frequent oil changes are necessary with lack of detergents in the break-in oil.
Anyone?
#12
Le Mans Master
Run NON synthetic reg oil. Use fresh on start up and change after about an hour of run time. Drain it. Add fresh reg oil again. Tune it, do all your WOT testing. Drain it. Then add the good stuff
#13
Racer
Thread Starter
#14
Racer
Thread Starter
Thanks a lot guys for the advice. Here's a video of my first session breaking in my motor. Also I built it
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gNRiv...A1o5Ot3WqmpjSL
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gNRiv...A1o5Ot3WqmpjSL