MaxJax lift install
#1
Team Owner
Thread Starter
MaxJax lift install
I know several people that have had interest in these lifts. I finally jumpedi in with both feet and got one. Some of the high points of my install and test.
Lift in and working. Frikken Dannmar marked the wrong ports on the hydraulic distributor. I forgot how much I hated the smell of transmission fluid.
Had it delivered to the closest Yellow freight distributor-Fit perfect in the 8 ft. bed of my truck.
Unpacked.
Damn-I have too much **** in my garage.
Measure my largest car-The GS.
Stupid door opener !! I have to offset my install.
Got it.
I can even open the door !
Tools of the trade. I can't stress enough about how easy the drilling was. About a minute a hole. 4 inch concrete-Through like buttah.
First lift. Let me preface this by saying-Dannmar marked the wrong holes on the hydraulic distributor. It took me 4 hours to figure this out because I thought I did something wrong. Nope-those *****. Note the jackstands under the arms. I let it hang for an hour and then got on the arms and bounced. No deflection of the jack at all.
Topped up. 48 inches on the lift. Not enough dammit.
3 stage process. Lift car/place block under wheel/drop lift/put extension on jack/a 2X4 piece and a jacking puck.
Now I get 50 inches and plenty of room. Now for the MC. 850 lbs of Harley on one section.
Now the other.
I had bought a thicker tunnel plate for the car and put it on today. Was under the car tugging, pulling and wrenching. Felt very secure. I love this lift. It's perfect for my use. 2 other members of my racing club just bought theirs based on my install.
Lift in and working. Frikken Dannmar marked the wrong ports on the hydraulic distributor. I forgot how much I hated the smell of transmission fluid.
Had it delivered to the closest Yellow freight distributor-Fit perfect in the 8 ft. bed of my truck.
Unpacked.
Damn-I have too much **** in my garage.
Measure my largest car-The GS.
Stupid door opener !! I have to offset my install.
Got it.
I can even open the door !
Tools of the trade. I can't stress enough about how easy the drilling was. About a minute a hole. 4 inch concrete-Through like buttah.
First lift. Let me preface this by saying-Dannmar marked the wrong holes on the hydraulic distributor. It took me 4 hours to figure this out because I thought I did something wrong. Nope-those *****. Note the jackstands under the arms. I let it hang for an hour and then got on the arms and bounced. No deflection of the jack at all.
Topped up. 48 inches on the lift. Not enough dammit.
3 stage process. Lift car/place block under wheel/drop lift/put extension on jack/a 2X4 piece and a jacking puck.
Now I get 50 inches and plenty of room. Now for the MC. 850 lbs of Harley on one section.
Now the other.
I had bought a thicker tunnel plate for the car and put it on today. Was under the car tugging, pulling and wrenching. Felt very secure. I love this lift. It's perfect for my use. 2 other members of my racing club just bought theirs based on my install.
#3
Team Owner
Thread Starter
#5
Team Owner
Thread Starter
I always use pucks. The jack itself goes 48 inches. Using the provided extensions and pieces of 2X4 I can get 50 inches-perfect to roll around under on a stool. I still have a bit of room I can go higher if needed. I lowered my car so I needed 2X4's under my front tires to get a puck on the pad.
#6
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Nov 2006
Location: Yorkville IL
Posts: 1,098
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I always use pucks. The jack itself goes 48 inches. Using the provided extensions and pieces of 2X4 I can get 50 inches-perfect to roll around under on a stool. I still have a bit of room I can go higher if needed. I lowered my car so I needed 2X4's under my front tires to get a puck on the pad.
btw thanks for the info
trapp
#7
Team Owner
Thread Starter
#8
What I've found for working under the car, it's almost easier to use an adjustable back creeper like this and use the first (lower) position on the lift.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000I1FMA4
OTOH, full lift height is almost perfect for working on the suspension etc.. while standing.
Dave G.
#10
I am really curious as to why you are not load balancing the car ? The arms should be extend approx. the same amount on both sides. You putting more stress on the pass side column.
Also, if the opener is in your way, you can mount it offset. It doesn't have to be in the center, the spring is lifting the door anyway, the opener just helps out
Also, if the opener is in your way, you can mount it offset. It doesn't have to be in the center, the spring is lifting the door anyway, the opener just helps out
#11
It is important to get it bled really well and follow the set up instructions though. I had to re-bleed it a couple of times to get it to lift evenly.
The most important installation point of this lift is proper anchor installation obviously since the floor anchors take all the load.
Dave G.
#12
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Mine works fine. Sometimes I see a small difference (approx 1"), but nothing that's a problem. You drop the cylinders on to the safety bars anyway, so a small difference doesn't matter.
It is important to get it bled really well and follow the set up instructions though. I had to re-bleed it a couple of times to get it to lift evenly.
The most important installation point of this lift is proper anchor installation obviously since the floor anchors take all the load.
Dave G.
It is important to get it bled really well and follow the set up instructions though. I had to re-bleed it a couple of times to get it to lift evenly.
The most important installation point of this lift is proper anchor installation obviously since the floor anchors take all the load.
Dave G.