oldsls1

I have a few questions i have searched, and cant find answers for about the accusump and oil accumulators. I started a similiar thread on ls1tech trying to get quick answers. I dont know too much about motors or accumulators. So sorry if the answers are obvious, and correct me if im wrong. I was planning on using a manual valve.

1.Should i be concerned that when used for pre-oiling, the crankcase will be flooded until the motor is turned over?

2.Should i be concerned that the accusump will fill itself up first when the motor is turned over, using up oil pressure?

3.Will problems occur with the manual valve accusump at idle?

4. How effective are the sandwich adapters when used with these systems? Is a check valve needed? Does it effectively transfer oil to bearings and such?

Sorry if this is the wrong forum, i figured there would be useful info here.

Thanks

Kubs

Hope that was helpful!

oldsls1

very helpful. Thanks for the quick response!

davidfarmer

I agree with above, accusumps are all good in my book. The valves are designed to feed the engine quickly yet refill the sump slowly as not to "use up oil pressure"

I prefer a direct line into the engine. I'm not sure the currently available sandwich adapters, but there isn't a lot of room at the oil-filter mount, so I like to give the accusump it's own port.

see this for more info........ http://www.davidfarmerstuff.com/accusump.pdf

argonaut

I put mine directly into the port shown in David's PDF also. Works great and no worries about the oil cooler lines. Rather than a manual valve I went with the electronic EPC and really like it. I can turn it off with a switch when I want (the only thing that needs to be plumbed into the cockpit), it pre-lubes by just turning the key to accessory and waiting until it discharges (you can hear it) and its pretty much out of mind, I don't need to think about shutting a valve on and off (assuming I just leave the switch on). It does cost more though.

If you mount it in the left front fender (most common place) you will want to include lines and fittings to extend the air shrader valve and the air pressure guage into the engine compartment.

oldsls1

Thanks guys im going to look into the port. Can the first fill of the accusump be done without turning over the motor? My car has sat all winter so i could really use the pre-lube on my first start-up.

Kubs

You could take the accusump apart and fill it with some oil before installing it. Then you could have the prelube. Otherwise just add some extra to the crankcase after it is installed.

Also, what engine do you have? The LSX in the C5/6 and the LT1s in the C4 have a port to go directly to without the use of a sandwich adapter like David mentioned, but on my L98 block there was no such thing which is why mine is in line with the oil cooler.

Rob's 73

You will probably end up make a mess but it could be done. With no air pressure on the dry side of the piston you could probably push the piston down with something. You could then put as much oil in it as possible connect the fittings and valve. Once it is completely installed with the valve off, pressurize the air side to 100 pounds. This will allow it to pre-lube the engine as soon as you turn the valve on and not allow any oil to return to the accusump once you start the engine. Shut the engine down and follow the procedures for setting the initial air charge of 7-12 pounds.

I would skip the pre-fill, pull the fuel pump relay, disconnect the coil packs and crank the engine until you see pressure on the gauge. Yes the engine could be turning without oil pressure but there is minimal force/pressure on the bearings.

oldsls1

How long does it usually take to build up pressure this way? I tried to do this. Pulled the fuel relay and packs. The gauge just sat at 0 oil pressure. The car is an 85 oldsmobile with an ls1 swapped in. I talked to who put the car together. Told him i was trying to build oil pressure before starting the car. He didnt think it would work with this car. I cant exactly remember why though. I think it had to do with the oil pump put on the car. could be wrong though.

Slalom4me

The OP mentions a manual valve - this is a plain ball valve
that does not function in the same slow-fill manner as the
standard electrically-operated solenoid valve.

The discharge and fill rates of a ball valve are more or less
equivalent. When an accumulator such as the Accusump is
fitted with a ball valve and in a discharged state, oil pressure
in the galleries will be lower than it would otherwise be because
volume produced by the pump will flow in the path of least
resistance until the accumulator fills sufficiently, then pressure
will begin to rise.

.

Slalom4me

On a system without an accumulator, the time required for
oil pressure to develop should be a matter of seconds.

For a new engine, if the oil filter has not been prefilled and if
the oil pump was not prelubed internally with petroleum jelly,
it can take longer for pressure to build. The pump does not
self-prime as quickly and the oil filter needs to fill, along with
the galleries and lifters.

Adding an 3 qt accumulator to the system, along with the
accompanying -10 or -12 hose would seem to be similar to
adding 5 to 6 empty oil filters, with a commensurate increase
in the amount of time before pressure began to build.

.

oldsls1

Slalom4me-
How do you feel about accusumps for the cause of pre-oiling? Do you feel the time it would take to build up pressure would cancel the benefits?

oldsls1

I dont understand. Going back to one of my original questions but with the electric valve. Wouldnt the slower refill rate cause problems with overfilling the crank case once turned over? Wouldnt this cause problems with aeration? When used for pre-lubing

oldsls1

Anyone who can explain?

fallen

I will also be installing my accusump in the coming weeks. I have an LS7 block. Is there a similar port on the LS7 block?

Also, do I need to drill the block in that location to get to the port (or is there a plug that can be unscrewed?)?

Thanks.

mgarfias

Not sure about the gen4 motors, but the gen3 had a helpful plug that you unscrew to get access to the gallery. I'd assume the gen4 is the same.

Maynor29

Timely question on the Accusump... I'm running a 3QT version with the EPC valve and 35-40 psi sensor on a wet sump LS2.

At the track this weekend, it doesn't seem the Accusump actually does anything for low oil pressure situations. I've got a new oil pressure gauge with a warning light set to go off below 30 psi. In high-g left hand turns (even quick ones), Oil pressure constantly dropped to 20 psi. Nothing lower I noticed but its frustrating seeing the Accusump do nothing to compensate... this can't be normal operation can it?

The Accusump pressure sensor is mounted right after the EPC valve instead of the engine like the manual recommends. I can't imagine that difference in mounting location would cause that big a fluctuation in readings... could it?

The oil pressure gauge sender is down stream from the Accsump sender mounted half way between the accusump and the engine if that makes a difference.

Pre-lube works great. Turn on the switch before starting the engine and you can hear it discharging plus oil pressure gauges shoots to about 20 psi. Air gauge drops to about 7 psi pre-charge level when its empty.

Seems like the Accusump is a pre-oiler only without any benefit for low oil pressure situations so far... contrary to the intended use... I'm having trouble believing that.

Any other experiences with the use of an Accusump on track?

John

imp zog

I used a manual (electronic switch) accusump prior to my drysump install, and used it as follows:

a) pre-charged to 60psi, open valve to pre-oil motor.
b) close valve and start motor.
c) wait for oil pressure to build in the motor (ie: get on the track), and then re-open the valve for the session.
d) on the cooldown lap, get the revs up enough to raise the oil pressure and maximize the fill into accusump, and close the valve so the accusump will be fully charged for the next startup pre-oiling.

I considered the pressure-triggering automatic valves, but given the number of times things like that have broken on me, I decided that manual would be better (and prior to turning the motor over, if you have the key in the "on" position you will be able to see oil pressure rise for the pre-oiling). I would have preferred the manual ball **** valve over a switch, but given the limited space in the cockpit area in the 'Vette, I opted for a remote switch instead. Be sure to install a check valve as well so that you don't ever push the oil backwards thru the filter/pump.

Maynor29

imp zog, on track, did you ever notice the Accusump discharge due to low oil pressure or was it a pre-oiler only for you?

imp zog

Well, there's the question, my accusump was mounted in the trunk area so I couldn't see the pressure gauge, so since the valve was open all the time while I was on the track, the assumption is that it would feed oil in whenever the pressure changed. I've never noticed oil pressure drops with the car in the 9 years that I've been tracking it, the stock LS6 doesn't tend to suffer from oiling issues to begin with. It was more an extra safety measure as I was switching to racing slicks from the Hoosier R6's that season.