andy82

Hi,

I'm tired of camber settings that are good for the street but make my Hoosers tear up the outside with no front tracktion in corners. On the other hand I don't want to ruin my street tires with -3 degrees.

That's why I'm thinking about buying the Pfad Camber Kit, but:

- Has anyone installed/used it yet - pics???

- After the car has been re-aligned can you easily change the negative camber settings for street/race by changing the shims?

- Any other comments? Suggestions?

Thanks!

JDIllon

The front uses shims but you would still have to check the settings after you shim. And the rear uses spacers that get bolted thru the lower a arm mount. Just my .02 but I don't think it would be that easy to go back and forth. The kit works great but I think it was meant to set them and forget them. I think the factory setup would be faster for going back and forth. By the way if you are checking castor and camber on a regular basis, the 24" digital level from Sears makes it a snap to do. JD

Hazman

You can change the front while changing from track to street tires. Take off track tire, loosen the four nuts slide out the track shims, put in your street shims, tighten the four nuts and put on the street tire. Go to the other side and repeat. Now this assumes you have taken the up front time to set a street alignment and a track alignment and have the proper shims sets prepared. I taped mine togather and labeled which set goes on which side and which bolt. This is important because you can change camber and castor if you don't get the right ones on the right stud!!!

The rears you should stay with stock bolts if you want to adjust.

meldog21

I have them, and with above. The key is to do the dual set up with the taped shims ahead of time. Once the "street" shims are removed and your track tires are on all you really need to do is a quick toe reset. The toe will change when you remove or add shims from the upper A-arms. The shims will not usually be the same front to rear on the arms so you'll need to mark something like FR, BR, FL, BL. Use masking tape and you can write on the shims.

It will cost a little more for the dual set up because of the extra time. Brandon Krause in Castro Valley can do the whole thing for you. He did my set up and corner weight after I installed my complete Pfadt suspension. Also, the Pfadt set up will allow more than -3.5 camber if you want that much.

Dog

dbratten

Andy,

I've used them for a couple of years now and will go between street and track settings depending on how long it is between events. I am using standard U-shaped drop-in shims on the top F. The kit comes with many but I went out and bought 20 - 1/8" as I was making pretty extreme changes going from near zero camber to -2.5 or more. I currently have up to 5 - 1/8" shims on each of the four studs in F to achieve zero camber, if desired. Taking out 4 per stud will get me to -2.2 which I typically run.

I should also mention that to use this many large shims I made longer studs than supplied. I bought a 3' piece of stainless all-thread ($12?), cut it to 3.5" lengths, and spot welded a point toward the middle to act as a lock point when threaded into the frame. Along with red Locktight they don't more.

For caster, I use washers at the rear behind the shims that I don't change (unless making an overall caster adjustment.) More washers to the F gives more caster. Doing it this way I don't have to worry about keeping close track of what shims are removed or where they go. Four in, four out and it's good to go. Also, 1/8" shims are easy to count vs. a big pile of thin ones.

On the lower F a-arms I have the included 6 notch plates. For awhile, I tried running a 5 notch in the forward position to give caster but decided it could bind. I went back to the 6 notch when I switched to poly bushings.

You do need to set toe with each change. Easiest way is to count the turns on the tie rod (number of flats on the hex area, actually) and that will get you close. I usually have 18-22 flats (3+ full turns) change from street to track and back settings. A tape measure gets you close enough to check it. On the rear, you'll want to also check thrust angle occasionally as it will get off over time as you adjust the toe. A laser level will work for this.

Let me know if you want to see it all and we can pull a wheel off at the next event.

--Dan

C5Lion

On a similar subject. I go back and forth between street and track setups as well, by removing shims and adjusting the toe. The last time I did this I noticed my steering wheel was off center a little bit when the tires were pointed straight. The car also pulls a little bit to the right as I drive. I suspect my toe is off a little bit. It measures 1/16 out in the front. What do I need to adjust to fix the steering wheel and the pull to the right?

andy82

Thanks guys, that's what I wanted to hear. I will order the kit in the next few days.

dbratten

For street I run close to zero toe or just a wee bit toe in. Any time my steering wheel gets off center I always have to stop and think what it means. If I'm getting it right now, I believe you need to move the tires in the direction you now steer to get it to go straight.

So, if you must steer slightly to the left to go straight you'll want to add toe-out to the left tire and the same amount of toe-in to the right tire which moves both front wheels in the direction (left) you had to turn the steering wheel. Usually, it's a small amount -- less than a flat on the hex.

C5Lion

Thank you, I guess I can give this a try.

Pfadt Racing

Hi andy82,

Sorry for the late response, but please do not hesitate to give us a call with any questions you have on this kit. We are here to help! Thanks.

davidfarmer

I have their camber kit (as well has Hardbar), and it works great. However, this is NOT a real solution for changing camber between events. Honestly, swapping OEM shims or marking and changing your concentrics is just as easy as changing camber plates (assuming you can even keep up with what goes where). With the concentrics, it's a simple matter or marking them with green paint (for street) or red (for track), and moving them back and forth, then resetting toe.

davidfarmer

C5lion, to correct your steering, turn either front tire TOWARDS the side the steering wheel is off to. In other words, if your steering wheel is off to the right, either loosen the front right toe link or tighten the left front toe link. 1.5 "flats" is about 1/32"

rikhek