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C5 Track Car \ HPDE Conversion: What I have learned!
03-13-2012, 02:35 PM
#261
Terminal Vette Addict
Thread Starter
1. Can I run 11x17 50mm offset wheels w/ 315/35-17 tires w/o rubbing and interference problems? The confusion for me is seeing things like the T1 rules about 10" on front, and the fact that the factory wheels have more offset. Don't want to tear up the car.
once you cross the 275 size up front you get into some spacing issues at full wheel lock if you have brake ducts. 295 is about the easy limit. Some guys even run square setups at 305, but 305 WILL rub at wheel lock, this happens in auto cross not Road Courses
2. Remembering that I am only running 1-2 HPDEs per year, I do like to run fast (and have a competitive streak), is there really any reason not to run some aftermarket wheels that will be heavier than stock? I understand unsprung weight, etc. but I'm not racing for money, just fun. Seems like the increase in wheel and tire width may take me as far as I want to go anyway, don't you think?
Its worth having an extra set of rims and tires, one for dry track and one for wet track. also you dont want to tear up your street tires on an hpde. I typically kill a set of tires in 3-4 HPDE track days (not events days) so having a race set and a street set makes this easier to manage.
3. Are the wheels and tires the best way to accomplish more neutral handling, rather than sway bars? I don't have an unlimited budget.
Tires = grip. Handling as far as the understeer, over steer, and camber of the tire which will affect performace etc etc is all in teh suspension and alignment
4. Brake pads - I've successfully run the factory Z06 pads (3rd set) (semi-metallic) and they seem to stop fine, some shimmy on the track, but they go back to totally smooth once cooled down. Still original rotors on all 4 corners. If I get my traction better w/ new tire/wheel setup, will the factory pads still hold up?
tires and brake pads have nothing to so with one another. brake pads are a function of speed. faster you go, the harder you need to stop. additionally how aggressive are you into a cornor. I plunge deep until the very last second and pucker my ahhole and pray
not evenone runs that deep into the corners, or at full WOT on a straight. The harder and later you brake the hotter the pads. You will glaze stock pads if you are really pushing your car to the limit. When I glazed my first set of HAWK pads, HP+ no less.. I realized it was time to move up. Additionally race pads offer better grip at high temps that a stock pad cant handle
5. If I do a track pad, then switch back to street pads, can you get away with just swapping the pads - i.e. no turning rotors or light sanding of the rotors, etc.?
you can get away with it, but there is some is some debate about this you can read in teh pad section there are several links on this topic
6. Factory camber on track days eats my Goodyear F1s up on the outer edges on the front and somewhat less wear on the rears. Anyone with a good compromise settings for my situation?
again this is a fucntion of increasing the camber to the tire on a level surface appears to have the bottom of the tires tilted out some. when in a corner the tire will then lay FLAT and thus this goes away. A function again of the suspension and alignment, F1 tires are no place for a track. Run flats are dangerous on a track and will eventually get greasy and could lose grip in a corner. Hence the need for two full sets of rims and tires. you answered effectively your earlier question yourself.
7. Has anyone ever attempted successfully to to mark toe-in and camber settings - 1 mark for street and a 2nd mark for track, then make the switch at home before and after? If I were to run the Hoosiers or some R-comps I apparently would need to run 2.5 - 3.0 deg. camber per Hoosier website.
again hoosiers are designed for more camber as the tire is designed for one purpose, runnign the car at full grip in teh corners. You should NOT be moving up to a hoosier form a run flat. that is a dnagerous transition. I suggest you get r-comps for what you do with it. hoosiers are for advanced drivers trying to get every last second (or hundreth) out of their car. From your questions you have 5 seconds left on your driving before this happens. An R-comp tire i think is a better use of your funds, the R888 or RA1 id my suggestion for this for the weekend HPDE guy like yourself. You can find used tired off time attack teams on here which one set would last you a full season of HPDE and you wouldnt bugger up your street tires. a used ties is about 100 each, you just need rims to fit them.
Any help on each of these would be greatly appreciated.[/QUOTE]
once you cross the 275 size up front you get into some spacing issues at full wheel lock if you have brake ducts. 295 is about the easy limit. Some guys even run square setups at 305, but 305 WILL rub at wheel lock, this happens in auto cross not Road Courses
2. Remembering that I am only running 1-2 HPDEs per year, I do like to run fast (and have a competitive streak), is there really any reason not to run some aftermarket wheels that will be heavier than stock? I understand unsprung weight, etc. but I'm not racing for money, just fun. Seems like the increase in wheel and tire width may take me as far as I want to go anyway, don't you think?
Its worth having an extra set of rims and tires, one for dry track and one for wet track. also you dont want to tear up your street tires on an hpde. I typically kill a set of tires in 3-4 HPDE track days (not events days) so having a race set and a street set makes this easier to manage.
3. Are the wheels and tires the best way to accomplish more neutral handling, rather than sway bars? I don't have an unlimited budget.
Tires = grip. Handling as far as the understeer, over steer, and camber of the tire which will affect performace etc etc is all in teh suspension and alignment
4. Brake pads - I've successfully run the factory Z06 pads (3rd set) (semi-metallic) and they seem to stop fine, some shimmy on the track, but they go back to totally smooth once cooled down. Still original rotors on all 4 corners. If I get my traction better w/ new tire/wheel setup, will the factory pads still hold up?
tires and brake pads have nothing to so with one another. brake pads are a function of speed. faster you go, the harder you need to stop. additionally how aggressive are you into a cornor. I plunge deep until the very last second and pucker my ahhole and pray
not evenone runs that deep into the corners, or at full WOT on a straight. The harder and later you brake the hotter the pads. You will glaze stock pads if you are really pushing your car to the limit. When I glazed my first set of HAWK pads, HP+ no less.. I realized it was time to move up. Additionally race pads offer better grip at high temps that a stock pad cant handle5. If I do a track pad, then switch back to street pads, can you get away with just swapping the pads - i.e. no turning rotors or light sanding of the rotors, etc.?
you can get away with it, but there is some is some debate about this you can read in teh pad section there are several links on this topic
6. Factory camber on track days eats my Goodyear F1s up on the outer edges on the front and somewhat less wear on the rears. Anyone with a good compromise settings for my situation?
again this is a fucntion of increasing the camber to the tire on a level surface appears to have the bottom of the tires tilted out some. when in a corner the tire will then lay FLAT and thus this goes away. A function again of the suspension and alignment, F1 tires are no place for a track. Run flats are dangerous on a track and will eventually get greasy and could lose grip in a corner. Hence the need for two full sets of rims and tires. you answered effectively your earlier question yourself.
7. Has anyone ever attempted successfully to to mark toe-in and camber settings - 1 mark for street and a 2nd mark for track, then make the switch at home before and after? If I were to run the Hoosiers or some R-comps I apparently would need to run 2.5 - 3.0 deg. camber per Hoosier website.
again hoosiers are designed for more camber as the tire is designed for one purpose, runnign the car at full grip in teh corners. You should NOT be moving up to a hoosier form a run flat. that is a dnagerous transition. I suggest you get r-comps for what you do with it. hoosiers are for advanced drivers trying to get every last second (or hundreth) out of their car. From your questions you have 5 seconds left on your driving before this happens. An R-comp tire i think is a better use of your funds, the R888 or RA1 id my suggestion for this for the weekend HPDE guy like yourself. You can find used tired off time attack teams on here which one set would last you a full season of HPDE and you wouldnt bugger up your street tires. a used ties is about 100 each, you just need rims to fit them.
Any help on each of these would be greatly appreciated.[/QUOTE]
03-13-2012, 06:20 PM
#262
Zenak - thanks for the response. A little more help, please. Also, to clarify, my Z06 did NOT come w/ run flats, but with F1 Super Cars. After all my reading and the Goodyears now costing $400+ each + shipping and install, I will buy a different brand. Your writeup helped me narrow the choices a lot - thanks. A little more background - I've run racing tires back when I ran top class 5/8 mile asphalt circle track for a year in 1995 (tubular chassis, camaro front end, 410 hp, 2bbl carb, 2800 lbs w/ driver and gas - money ran dry
). Now days difference is I can't afford to damage my pretty street car, so I can't push quite as hard. Since I don't have a trailer or pickup truck, I don't have a way to carry R-comps or slicks at this point. So perhaps I will run just a second set of the most grippy street tires - hence why I'm asking about the 11x17 315/35 square arrangement. If I use them at the track only, perhaps I can live with only a brake duct rub IF it is only at steering lock and no other problems.
[/QUOTE] Thanks again for any suggestions.
). Now days difference is I can't afford to damage my pretty street car, so I can't push quite as hard. Since I don't have a trailer or pickup truck, I don't have a way to carry R-comps or slicks at this point. So perhaps I will run just a second set of the most grippy street tires - hence why I'm asking about the 11x17 315/35 square arrangement. If I use them at the track only, perhaps I can live with only a brake duct rub IF it is only at steering lock and no other problems.1. Can I run 11x17 50mm offset wheels w/ 315/35-17 tires w/o rubbing and interference problems? The confusion for me is seeing things like the T1 rules about 10" on front, and the fact that the factory wheels have more offset. Don't want to tear up the car.
once you cross the 275 size up front you get into some spacing issues at full wheel lock if you have brake ducts. 295 is about the easy limit. Some guys even run square setups at 305, but 305 WILL rub at wheel lock, this happens in auto cross not Road Courses
I just want to be sure I understand - Will the 11" 50mm offset wheels work w/ 315/35-17s on all 4 corners w/ my stock Z06? The guy @ Speedsouth with the wheels/tires for sale as I mentioned above here in B'ham says this arrangement works fine on the 02 Z06 he is taking them off of and said it is stock as well (but I do not know the offset on his wheels). I noticed that you'd mentioned this square arrangement in your original post.
Perhaps I should only get 1 set of 11x17 (or another size front wheels) and tires for track use only since fronts take the most abuse (at least with stock alignment? If only 2 wheels, which size and which size tires?
2. Remembering that I am only running 1-2 HPDEs per year, I do like to run fast (and have a competitive streak), is there really any reason not to run some aftermarket wheels that will be heavier than stock? I understand unsprung weight, etc. but I'm not racing for money, just fun. Seems like the increase in wheel and tire width may take me as far as I want to go anyway, don't you think?
Its worth having an extra set of rims and tires, one for dry track and one for wet track. also you dont want to tear up your street tires on an hpde. I typically kill a set of tires in 3-4 HPDE track days (not events days) so having a race set and a street set makes this easier to manage.
Gottcha. W/o a way to carry extras, I do have a consideration of going to my local track (Barber) driving R-comps on the street for about 20 miles. Otherwise, at this point, extra wheels and tires will be swapped at the house and driven to the track - (I occasionally venture to other tracks).
3. Are the wheels and tires the best way to accomplish more neutral handling, rather than sway bars? I don't have an unlimited budget.
Tires = grip. Handling as far as the understeer, over steer, and camber of the tire which will affect performace etc etc is all in teh suspension and alignment
I understand suspension and alignment - but clearly if I had 1" wide bicycle tire on front, the front would push (understeer), so it seems like having the extra wide rear tires is giving more grip to the rear in the stock arrangement, and hence the front runs out of grip before the rear, hence understeer. Thus if I had more grip in the front than I could overcome, wouldn't the problem be solved? That's my question - wouldn't the wider fronts in effect help stop the understeer?
Also, If I can only afford a few expenses, my experience from back in the 70s on autocross forward seems to say fat tire over fatter rear sway bar (or other suspension changes) to get rid of a pushing front end. Agree or best idea?
Also, are you saying that if I get more camber in my front end, maybe there will be no reason for fatter fronts? Or perhaps, more camber plus fatter fronts (up to what size?) would be even better?
4. Brake pads - I've successfully run the factory Z06 pads (3rd set) (semi-metallic) and they seem to stop fine, some shimmy on the track, but they go back to totally smooth once cooled down. Still original rotors on all 4 corners. If I get my traction better w/ new tire/wheel setup, will the factory pads still hold up?
tires and brake pads have nothing to so with one another. brake pads are a function of speed. faster you go, the harder you need to stop. additionally how aggressive are you into a cornor. I plunge deep until the very last second and pucker my ahhole and pray not evenone runs that deep into the corners, or at full WOT on a straight. The harder and later you brake the hotter the pads. You will glaze stock pads if you are really pushing your car to the limit. When I glazed my first set of HAWK pads, HP+ no less.. I realized it was time to move up. Additionally race pads offer better grip at high temps that a stock pad cant handle
Understood. What I meant was better traction will allow more speed - I am overdriving my current tires. You said get better pads. Best pad for my money for track days considering all my info?
5. If I do a track pad, then switch back to street pads, can you get away with just swapping the pads - i.e. no turning rotors or light sanding of the rotors, etc.?
you can get away with it, but there is some is some debate about this you can read in teh pad section there are several links on this topic
Unfortunately, I've read and read, but just get lots of opinions. Some of the options on pads are very expensive. A second set of rotors to match up is getting a bit pricey for me, but maybe I'll consider that later.
6. Factory camber on track days eats my Goodyear F1s up on the outer edges on the front and somewhat less wear on the rears. Anyone with a good compromise settings for my situation?
again this is a fucntion of increasing the camber to the tire on a level surface appears to have the bottom of the tires tilted out some. when in a corner the tire will then lay FLAT and thus this goes away. A function again of the suspension and alignment, F1 tires are no place for a track. Run flats are dangerous on a track and will eventually get greasy and could lose grip in a corner. Hence the need for two full sets of rims and tires. you answered effectively your earlier question yourself.
I understand camber's function - I'm a very mechanically oriented guy - do my own work except alignments and a few other things. My questions lie mostly around best bang for the buck. In this case, can I get a setting that will help the on track rolling over of the edges (more camber) and yet end up working ok on the street w/o ruining the inner edges?
7. Has anyone ever attempted successfully to to mark toe-in and camber settings - 1 mark for street and a 2nd mark for track, then make the switch at home before and after? If I were to run the Hoosiers or some R-comps I apparently would need to run 2.5 - 3.0 deg. camber per Hoosier website.
again hoosiers are designed for more camber as the tire is designed for one purpose, runnign the car at full grip in teh corners. You should NOT be moving up to a hoosier form a run flat. that is a dnagerous transition. I suggest you get r-comps for what you do with it. hoosiers are for advanced drivers trying to get every last second (or hundreth) out of their car. From your questions you have 5 seconds left on your driving before this happens. An R-comp tire i think is a better use of your funds, the R888 or RA1 id my suggestion for this for the weekend HPDE guy like yourself. You can find used tired off time attack teams on here which one set would last you a full season of HPDE and you wouldnt bugger up your street tires. a used ties is about 100 each, you just need rims to fit them.
I thought I read a comment in your original post that used tires (and maybe wheels) were not a good bet? Anyway, at this point, I'm afraid R-comps or slicks at not possible since I don't have a way to get them to the track.
Picture this: Perhaps pay the alignment people once for a track align, hit the track, then once again for a street align (w/ settings I give them from your suggestions for both).
The real question here is: Is it possible from these 2 alignments to make 2 alignment markings at each wheel so I could simply move my camber from mark a to b, my toe from mark a to b, and thus run an aggressive alignment at the track, then simply move back to the street markings w/o having to buy an alignment each time? (Also using good notes, like "3/4 turn outward on the tie rods for street", tick marks or paint marks on the camber cams or add/subtract 1 or 2 U-shaped shims on top, etc).
If possible, use what settings for street and track? Again - if it's not possible, it's not possible. Just makes me think that we should be able to get very close that way. I tried David Farmer's home measurement for toe and camber - I found my measurements easily. However, the need for on and off, drive around, back up on jack stands is just too much work to be worthwhile. If not possible, the best compromise settings may be necessary.
Any help on each of these would be greatly appreciated.
once you cross the 275 size up front you get into some spacing issues at full wheel lock if you have brake ducts. 295 is about the easy limit. Some guys even run square setups at 305, but 305 WILL rub at wheel lock, this happens in auto cross not Road Courses
I just want to be sure I understand - Will the 11" 50mm offset wheels work w/ 315/35-17s on all 4 corners w/ my stock Z06? The guy @ Speedsouth with the wheels/tires for sale as I mentioned above here in B'ham says this arrangement works fine on the 02 Z06 he is taking them off of and said it is stock as well (but I do not know the offset on his wheels). I noticed that you'd mentioned this square arrangement in your original post.
Perhaps I should only get 1 set of 11x17 (or another size front wheels) and tires for track use only since fronts take the most abuse (at least with stock alignment? If only 2 wheels, which size and which size tires?
2. Remembering that I am only running 1-2 HPDEs per year, I do like to run fast (and have a competitive streak), is there really any reason not to run some aftermarket wheels that will be heavier than stock? I understand unsprung weight, etc. but I'm not racing for money, just fun. Seems like the increase in wheel and tire width may take me as far as I want to go anyway, don't you think?
Its worth having an extra set of rims and tires, one for dry track and one for wet track. also you dont want to tear up your street tires on an hpde. I typically kill a set of tires in 3-4 HPDE track days (not events days) so having a race set and a street set makes this easier to manage.
Gottcha. W/o a way to carry extras, I do have a consideration of going to my local track (Barber) driving R-comps on the street for about 20 miles. Otherwise, at this point, extra wheels and tires will be swapped at the house and driven to the track - (I occasionally venture to other tracks).
3. Are the wheels and tires the best way to accomplish more neutral handling, rather than sway bars? I don't have an unlimited budget.
Tires = grip. Handling as far as the understeer, over steer, and camber of the tire which will affect performace etc etc is all in teh suspension and alignment
I understand suspension and alignment - but clearly if I had 1" wide bicycle tire on front, the front would push (understeer), so it seems like having the extra wide rear tires is giving more grip to the rear in the stock arrangement, and hence the front runs out of grip before the rear, hence understeer. Thus if I had more grip in the front than I could overcome, wouldn't the problem be solved? That's my question - wouldn't the wider fronts in effect help stop the understeer?
Also, If I can only afford a few expenses, my experience from back in the 70s on autocross forward seems to say fat tire over fatter rear sway bar (or other suspension changes) to get rid of a pushing front end. Agree or best idea?
Also, are you saying that if I get more camber in my front end, maybe there will be no reason for fatter fronts? Or perhaps, more camber plus fatter fronts (up to what size?) would be even better?
4. Brake pads - I've successfully run the factory Z06 pads (3rd set) (semi-metallic) and they seem to stop fine, some shimmy on the track, but they go back to totally smooth once cooled down. Still original rotors on all 4 corners. If I get my traction better w/ new tire/wheel setup, will the factory pads still hold up?
tires and brake pads have nothing to so with one another. brake pads are a function of speed. faster you go, the harder you need to stop. additionally how aggressive are you into a cornor. I plunge deep until the very last second and pucker my ahhole and pray
not evenone runs that deep into the corners, or at full WOT on a straight. The harder and later you brake the hotter the pads. You will glaze stock pads if you are really pushing your car to the limit. When I glazed my first set of HAWK pads, HP+ no less.. I realized it was time to move up. Additionally race pads offer better grip at high temps that a stock pad cant handleUnderstood. What I meant was better traction will allow more speed - I am overdriving my current tires. You said get better pads. Best pad for my money for track days considering all my info?
5. If I do a track pad, then switch back to street pads, can you get away with just swapping the pads - i.e. no turning rotors or light sanding of the rotors, etc.?
you can get away with it, but there is some is some debate about this you can read in teh pad section there are several links on this topic
Unfortunately, I've read and read, but just get lots of opinions. Some of the options on pads are very expensive. A second set of rotors to match up is getting a bit pricey for me, but maybe I'll consider that later.
6. Factory camber on track days eats my Goodyear F1s up on the outer edges on the front and somewhat less wear on the rears. Anyone with a good compromise settings for my situation?
again this is a fucntion of increasing the camber to the tire on a level surface appears to have the bottom of the tires tilted out some. when in a corner the tire will then lay FLAT and thus this goes away. A function again of the suspension and alignment, F1 tires are no place for a track. Run flats are dangerous on a track and will eventually get greasy and could lose grip in a corner. Hence the need for two full sets of rims and tires. you answered effectively your earlier question yourself.
I understand camber's function - I'm a very mechanically oriented guy - do my own work except alignments and a few other things. My questions lie mostly around best bang for the buck. In this case, can I get a setting that will help the on track rolling over of the edges (more camber) and yet end up working ok on the street w/o ruining the inner edges?
7. Has anyone ever attempted successfully to to mark toe-in and camber settings - 1 mark for street and a 2nd mark for track, then make the switch at home before and after? If I were to run the Hoosiers or some R-comps I apparently would need to run 2.5 - 3.0 deg. camber per Hoosier website.
again hoosiers are designed for more camber as the tire is designed for one purpose, runnign the car at full grip in teh corners. You should NOT be moving up to a hoosier form a run flat. that is a dnagerous transition. I suggest you get r-comps for what you do with it. hoosiers are for advanced drivers trying to get every last second (or hundreth) out of their car. From your questions you have 5 seconds left on your driving before this happens. An R-comp tire i think is a better use of your funds, the R888 or RA1 id my suggestion for this for the weekend HPDE guy like yourself. You can find used tired off time attack teams on here which one set would last you a full season of HPDE and you wouldnt bugger up your street tires. a used ties is about 100 each, you just need rims to fit them.
I thought I read a comment in your original post that used tires (and maybe wheels) were not a good bet? Anyway, at this point, I'm afraid R-comps or slicks at not possible since I don't have a way to get them to the track.
Picture this: Perhaps pay the alignment people once for a track align, hit the track, then once again for a street align (w/ settings I give them from your suggestions for both).
The real question here is: Is it possible from these 2 alignments to make 2 alignment markings at each wheel so I could simply move my camber from mark a to b, my toe from mark a to b, and thus run an aggressive alignment at the track, then simply move back to the street markings w/o having to buy an alignment each time? (Also using good notes, like "3/4 turn outward on the tie rods for street", tick marks or paint marks on the camber cams or add/subtract 1 or 2 U-shaped shims on top, etc).
If possible, use what settings for street and track? Again - if it's not possible, it's not possible. Just makes me think that we should be able to get very close that way. I tried David Farmer's home measurement for toe and camber - I found my measurements easily. However, the need for on and off, drive around, back up on jack stands is just too much work to be worthwhile. If not possible, the best compromise settings may be necessary.
Any help on each of these would be greatly appreciated.
03-14-2012, 06:29 PM
#263
Terminal Vette Addict
Thread Starter
People do run 315 all around, I do not think its a great set up. you can do a search in the advanced search in this forum for "315" and "square setup" and see what pops up. I know a guy who does run square 17's @ 305's but he has BBK issues, so there are always trade offs.
Thanks again for any suggestions.[/QUOTE]
Zenak - thanks for the response. A little more help, please. Also, to clarify, my Z06 did NOT come w/ run flats, but with F1 Super Cars. After all my reading and the Goodyears now costing $400+ each + shipping and install, I will buy a different brand. Your writeup helped me narrow the choices a lot - thanks. A little more background - I've run racing tires back when I ran top class 5/8 mile asphalt circle track for a year in 1995 (tubular chassis, camaro front end, 410 hp, 2bbl carb, 2800 lbs w/ driver and gas - money ran dry). Now days difference is I can't afford to damage my pretty street car, so I can't push quite as hard. Since I don't have a trailer or pickup truck, I don't have a way to carry R-comps or slicks at this point. So perhaps I will run just a second set of the most grippy street tires - hence why I'm asking about the 11x17 315/35 square arrangement. If I use them at the track only, perhaps I can live with only a brake duct rub IF it is only at steering lock and no other problems.
). Now days difference is I can't afford to damage my pretty street car, so I can't push quite as hard. Since I don't have a trailer or pickup truck, I don't have a way to carry R-comps or slicks at this point. So perhaps I will run just a second set of the most grippy street tires - hence why I'm asking about the 11x17 315/35 square arrangement. If I use them at the track only, perhaps I can live with only a brake duct rub IF it is only at steering lock and no other problems.
04-08-2012, 11:49 AM
#264
Racer
Member Since: Dec 2009
Location: Pas de Calais
Posts: 357
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi,
I habe been reading this thread with great interest and have based my track mods on you advice: brakes, coilovers, bucket seats, tunnel plate, race pedals, etc. I don't see lots of corvettes on the tracks here in France.
Now comes the choice for wheels and tires for track. I am thinking about tsw nurburing wheels with R888 tires. I also would be in favor of a 18" "square" setup (all wheels and tire same).
I run on dry most of the time and sometimes wet. I drive my car to the track.
What would be you advice on size (wheels and tires) ?
Thanks.
I habe been reading this thread with great interest and have based my track mods on you advice: brakes, coilovers, bucket seats, tunnel plate, race pedals, etc. I don't see lots of corvettes on the tracks here in France.
Now comes the choice for wheels and tires for track. I am thinking about tsw nurburing wheels with R888 tires. I also would be in favor of a 18" "square" setup (all wheels and tire same).
I run on dry most of the time and sometimes wet. I drive my car to the track.
What would be you advice on size (wheels and tires) ?
Thanks.
04-09-2012, 02:34 AM
#265
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Dec 2006
Location: Phoenix Arizona
Posts: 7,251
Likes: 0
Received 14 Likes
on
14 Posts
Hi,
I habe been reading this thread with great interest and have based my track mods on you advice: brakes, coilovers, bucket seats, tunnel plate, race pedals, etc. I don't see lots of corvettes on the tracks here in France.
Now comes the choice for wheels and tires for track. I am thinking about tsw nurburing wheels with R888 tires. I also would be in favor of a 18" "square" setup (all wheels and tire same).
I run on dry most of the time and sometimes wet. I drive my car to the track.
What would be you advice on size (wheels and tires) ?
Thanks.
I habe been reading this thread with great interest and have based my track mods on you advice: brakes, coilovers, bucket seats, tunnel plate, race pedals, etc. I don't see lots of corvettes on the tracks here in France.
Now comes the choice for wheels and tires for track. I am thinking about tsw nurburing wheels with R888 tires. I also would be in favor of a 18" "square" setup (all wheels and tire same).
I run on dry most of the time and sometimes wet. I drive my car to the track.
What would be you advice on size (wheels and tires) ?
Thanks.
alotta guys run the stock rear Z06 rims 18x10.5 on all 4 corners,
best bang for the bucks rubber are 315x18 Niitto Nt01's
those tsw's are a good deal but another vendor here on this forum is selling new speedlines ! we all love speedlines
04-09-2012, 03:19 AM
#266
Racer
Member Since: Dec 2009
Location: Pas de Calais
Posts: 357
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What are "new speedlines"? Are they the OEM rims for the new Z06?
Are they direct fit for the C5? No adaptation needed?
Are Nitto nt01 in 315 okay on wet?
Thanks.
Are they direct fit for the C5? No adaptation needed?
Are Nitto nt01 in 315 okay on wet?
Thanks.
04-09-2012, 03:28 AM
#267
Le Mans Master
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http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-p...heels-f-s.html
use the Nitto 555R2 same compound, with street tire cut
04-09-2012, 04:14 AM
#268
Racer
Member Since: Dec 2009
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Thank you for this information, helps a great deal.
I think I prefer the nurburing look but not sure about quality. I have asked for a pic of the Z06 wheels from house of wheels.
What would be the max tire and wheel size for no rubbering at corners, and no height issue with pfadt coilovers and sways?
I am guessing : wheels 18x10.5 ; tires 275-??-18
I think I prefer the nurburing look but not sure about quality. I have asked for a pic of the Z06 wheels from house of wheels.
What would be the max tire and wheel size for no rubbering at corners, and no height issue with pfadt coilovers and sways?
I am guessing : wheels 18x10.5 ; tires 275-??-18
04-27-2012, 01:57 PM
#270
Terminal Vette Addict
Thread Starter
Do not buy House of Wheels rims for racing!!!!
They are pretty, but they do not take the heat and abuse. They are extremely heavy and are steel. They are heat sinks for all the brake heat! This means as the rims heat up, the air inthe tires heats up and the tie pressures get all over the place during a race day.. not to mention the cost of the heat on deteriorating your brake fluid. nothing like over boiling brakes to mess up your day!
They are pretty, but they do not take the heat and abuse. They are extremely heavy and are steel. They are heat sinks for all the brake heat! This means as the rims heat up, the air inthe tires heats up and the tie pressures get all over the place during a race day.. not to mention the cost of the heat on deteriorating your brake fluid. nothing like over boiling brakes to mess up your day!
Thank you for this information, helps a great deal.
I think I prefer the nurburing look but not sure about quality. I have asked for a pic of the Z06 wheels from house of wheels.
What would be the max tire and wheel size for no rubbering at corners, and no height issue with pfadt coilovers and sways?
I am guessing : wheels 18x10.5 ; tires 275-??-18
I think I prefer the nurburing look but not sure about quality. I have asked for a pic of the Z06 wheels from house of wheels.
What would be the max tire and wheel size for no rubbering at corners, and no height issue with pfadt coilovers and sways?
I am guessing : wheels 18x10.5 ; tires 275-??-18
04-29-2012, 12:23 AM
#273
Heel & Toe
Speedline Rims
Hi
You sure have put a helluva lot time and effort not to mention trial &
error for the information you have put together.
I have an or ZO6 and love it for what this car is!!!!!!!
This is my 8th vette so I am not a new commer to the vette world.
I have the factory OEM speedlines but I hear thjat you can run the
18X10.5 all around. Based on your tried and true knowledge what
would be the largest size tires yoou would reccomend for the front
and rear w/o mini tubbing or fender flares.
Is it worth widening the rear rims to get more tire on the ground???
I for one of many I am sure of really do appreciate this most valuable
information you are sharing!!!!!!!!!!! Have you did the the numbers on
shaving weight off of the corvettes and if so did you ever post that???
THANKS A MILLION
porchrd
bettersrichard@yahoo.com
You sure have put a helluva lot time and effort not to mention trial &
error for the information you have put together.
I have an or ZO6 and love it for what this car is!!!!!!!
This is my 8th vette so I am not a new commer to the vette world.
I have the factory OEM speedlines but I hear thjat you can run the
18X10.5 all around. Based on your tried and true knowledge what
would be the largest size tires yoou would reccomend for the front
and rear w/o mini tubbing or fender flares.
Is it worth widening the rear rims to get more tire on the ground???
I for one of many I am sure of really do appreciate this most valuable
information you are sharing!!!!!!!!!!! Have you did the the numbers on
shaving weight off of the corvettes and if so did you ever post that???
THANKS A MILLION
porchrd
bettersrichard@yahoo.com
04-29-2012, 12:25 AM
#274
Heel & Toe
Speedline Rims
Hi
You sure have put a helluva lot time and effort not to mention trial &
error for the information you have put together.
I have an 04 C5 ZO6 and love it for what this car is!!!!!!!
This is my 8th vette so I am not a new commer to the vette world.
I have the factory OEM speedlines but I hear that you can run the
18X10.5 all around. Based on your tried and true knowledge what
would be the largest size tires yoou would reccomend for the front
and rear w/o mini tubbing or fender flares.
Is it worth widening the rear rims to get more tire on the ground???
I for one of many I am sure of really do appreciate this most valuable
information you are sharing!!!!!!!!!!! Have you did the the numbers on
shaving weight off of the corvettes and if so did you ever post that???
THANKS A MILLION
porchrd
bettersrichard@yahoo.com
You sure have put a helluva lot time and effort not to mention trial &
error for the information you have put together.
I have an 04 C5 ZO6 and love it for what this car is!!!!!!!
This is my 8th vette so I am not a new commer to the vette world.
I have the factory OEM speedlines but I hear that you can run the
18X10.5 all around. Based on your tried and true knowledge what
would be the largest size tires yoou would reccomend for the front
and rear w/o mini tubbing or fender flares.
Is it worth widening the rear rims to get more tire on the ground???
I for one of many I am sure of really do appreciate this most valuable
information you are sharing!!!!!!!!!!! Have you did the the numbers on
shaving weight off of the corvettes and if so did you ever post that???
THANKS A MILLION
porchrd
bettersrichard@yahoo.com
04-30-2012, 09:50 AM
#275
Terminal Vette Addict
Thread Starter
04-30-2012, 09:54 AM
#276
Terminal Vette Addict
Thread Starter
Largest fronts you can run without rubbing your brake ducts is about 295. After 295 you have duct rubs at wheel lock, period. I have seen people running up to 305 in the front.
335 is the largest people run for road racing in the rears, and once again you need to remove the Z06 C5 brake ducts to make this happen or get rubs. There really arent any other sizes for this application bigger, and you do not need to tub with the right offset (CCW does these well). I did use the ASPIS fender flares though because the tires at this size stick out and you will throw debris on the chasis.
CCW road race package 295/335 is a perfect amount of rubber... just an expensive combo to keep re-shoeing. Many teams run this size, and you can find time attack scrubs with about 50-75% rubber on them for sale used if you look. BUT often it does require using a pocket knife to scrape off lots of vulcanized rubber.
335 is the largest people run for road racing in the rears, and once again you need to remove the Z06 C5 brake ducts to make this happen or get rubs. There really arent any other sizes for this application bigger, and you do not need to tub with the right offset (CCW does these well). I did use the ASPIS fender flares though because the tires at this size stick out and you will throw debris on the chasis.
CCW road race package 295/335 is a perfect amount of rubber... just an expensive combo to keep re-shoeing. Many teams run this size, and you can find time attack scrubs with about 50-75% rubber on them for sale used if you look. BUT often it does require using a pocket knife to scrape off lots of vulcanized rubber.
Hi
You sure have put a helluva lot time and effort not to mention trial &
error for the information you have put together.
I have an 04 C5 ZO6 and love it for what this car is!!!!!!!
This is my 8th vette so I am not a new commer to the vette world.
I have the factory OEM speedlines but I hear that you can run the
18X10.5 all around. Based on your tried and true knowledge what
would be the largest size tires yoou would reccomend for the front
and rear w/o mini tubbing or fender flares.
Is it worth widening the rear rims to get more tire on the ground???
I for one of many I am sure of really do appreciate this most valuable
information you are sharing!!!!!!!!!!! Have you did the the numbers on
shaving weight off of the corvettes and if so did you ever post that???
THANKS A MILLION
porchrd
bettersrichard@yahoo.com
You sure have put a helluva lot time and effort not to mention trial &
error for the information you have put together.
I have an 04 C5 ZO6 and love it for what this car is!!!!!!!
This is my 8th vette so I am not a new commer to the vette world.
I have the factory OEM speedlines but I hear that you can run the
18X10.5 all around. Based on your tried and true knowledge what
would be the largest size tires yoou would reccomend for the front
and rear w/o mini tubbing or fender flares.
Is it worth widening the rear rims to get more tire on the ground???
I for one of many I am sure of really do appreciate this most valuable
information you are sharing!!!!!!!!!!! Have you did the the numbers on
shaving weight off of the corvettes and if so did you ever post that???
THANKS A MILLION
porchrd
bettersrichard@yahoo.com
05-03-2012, 03:44 AM
#277
Racer
Member Since: Dec 2009
Location: Pas de Calais
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05-20-2012, 03:23 AM
#278
Racer
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Zenak,
After reading all of this, I understand that your recommendation for a square set up would be 18x10.5 for the wheels and 285 for the width of the tires.
For that setup, what would be your height recommendation?
Can the steering pump from one turn cope with the extra resistance?
What would be the effect on turning balance compared with the standard tire size of a C5. (not Z06)?
Many thanks.
After reading all of this, I understand that your recommendation for a square set up would be 18x10.5 for the wheels and 285 for the width of the tires.
For that setup, what would be your height recommendation?
Can the steering pump from one turn cope with the extra resistance?
What would be the effect on turning balance compared with the standard tire size of a C5. (not Z06)?
Many thanks.
05-24-2012, 03:22 PM
#279
Terminal Vette Addict
Thread Starter
running 295 in the fronts never gave me any steering pump issue.
If you have a pump cooler thats key by the way. the Z06 and the upgraded coupe Z51 packages camewith it.
use the ranger flush trick to change the fluid regularly!!!!!
I would only go 17 or 18. 19 too little tire tread and they cost more.
Smaller tire = smaller $$ to buy
make sure you can get rims that will clear a BBK though for future upgrades.
the rake of the car will be off, so coil overs are clutch with a square set up to allow you to adjust the cars stance and angle with the same size tire all around.
If you have a pump cooler thats key by the way. the Z06 and the upgraded coupe Z51 packages camewith it.
use the ranger flush trick to change the fluid regularly!!!!!
I would only go 17 or 18. 19 too little tire tread and they cost more.
Smaller tire = smaller $$ to buy
make sure you can get rims that will clear a BBK though for future upgrades.
the rake of the car will be off, so coil overs are clutch with a square set up to allow you to adjust the cars stance and angle with the same size tire all around.
Zenak,
After reading all of this, I understand that your recommendation for a square set up would be 18x10.5 for the wheels and 285 for the width of the tires.
For that setup, what would be your height recommendation?
Can the steering pump from one turn cope with the extra resistance?
What would be the effect on turning balance compared with the standard tire size of a C5. (not Z06)?
Many thanks.
After reading all of this, I understand that your recommendation for a square set up would be 18x10.5 for the wheels and 285 for the width of the tires.
For that setup, what would be your height recommendation?
Can the steering pump from one turn cope with the extra resistance?
What would be the effect on turning balance compared with the standard tire size of a C5. (not Z06)?
Many thanks.
05-25-2012, 11:23 AM
#280
Racer
Member Since: Dec 2009
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Yes i have the upgraded turn one pump and a cooler from a Z51 kit.
I still am hesitating between a square mount (18x10.5) or a 17 front and 18 rear as I am afraid to have a car that over steers with a square mount.
> Would the 17" TSW Nurburing allows a future BBK? I doubt it.
> Or is there a way to change the car settings to avoid oversteer? I have he pfadt coilover (the generation before featherlights) and pfadt sway bars ..
I still am hesitating between a square mount (18x10.5) or a 17 front and 18 rear as I am afraid to have a car that over steers with a square mount.
> Would the 17" TSW Nurburing allows a future BBK? I doubt it.
> Or is there a way to change the car settings to avoid oversteer? I have he pfadt coilover (the generation before featherlights) and pfadt sway bars ..