Aluminum Open Car trailer ???
05-31-2008, 11:12 AM
#21
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Feb 2000
Location: Bedford NH
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Gary,
I have your hardbar and the original harness mounts on my car. I listen to all your tech advise as in talking to you a couple of times, I have come to realize you know Physics and Mechanics like no one I know. Thanks
I really like your fixed cable idea. Can you tell me a bit more about the specs of the cable and the hooks?
I have your hardbar and the original harness mounts on my car. I listen to all your tech advise as in talking to you a couple of times, I have come to realize you know Physics and Mechanics like no one I know. Thanks
I really like your fixed cable idea. Can you tell me a bit more about the specs of the cable and the hooks?
I do not understand the recommendation for not using a load leveling hitch, but I have to assume that Honda has a very good reason
. I tow with an 07 Silverado 2500 HD and the interior is beautiful, and it works great in snow, trust me, we had ample opportunity this last (record snow dating back to 1876) winter. Get the sway controller anyway, it is cheap and effective. As far as the cables go, they are 3/8 inch steel wire rope and were pre-made with the swaged ends. They are rated for something like 2k pounds each, and in the front, times 2, crossed this is way more than adequate. I use the ratchet tie downs in the rear and crank the ratchets against them. You can make your own at any length by using a couple of cable clamps at each end. If you can't find them at Home Depot, AW direct can help you as well.
Last edited by ghoffman; 05-31-2008 at 11:26 AM.
05-31-2008, 01:44 PM
#22
Melting Slicks
ok guys we need to elaborate with fotos on the sway control and hitch stuff. I'm also about to buy an Aluminum trailer (using v8 envoy to tow a c6 z---rated 6000#).
05-31-2008, 02:51 PM
#23
Team Owner
Here's an example of an weight distribution or equalizer hitch. The concept is that the bars and hitch mount distributes more of the weight across the towing vehicle frame. With this type of system, you can carry a heavier load (assuming that the vehicle is capable of it) with not really requiring a bigger Class V hitch. They will also help to level the tow vehicle and trailer.
For example, the Class III hitch on my Silverado 1500 is rated at 5000lbs towing weight. With an weight distribution setup, the same hitch will handle 12K lbs (again assuming a vehicle is capable of safely hauling that weight. My Silverado will only tow 7800#)
An anti-sway bar is a bar that attaches to the trailer tongue and the hitch This is an example of a stand-alone sway control. Some weight distribution hitches have built-in anti-sway control.
Enclosed trailers are more prone to swaying sideways due to the large flat sides where cross winds or even wind from passing trucks can cause the trailer to move around. Anti-sway devices and/or a weight distribution system will help to stop that.
With an open trailer, I don't think that it's as big an issue. I don't use a weight distribution system on my open trailer as I have not had a real problem with weight (my trailer and car weigh 5300#). I do have air springs to help with the tongue weight and cargo load in the box. They also help with keeping everything level.
A weight distribution system can be added later so I would suggest that once you get the trailer and get the car properly loaded, add your cargo and see how it tows. If you are comfortable and don't see any problems, you may be fine without either device. And they are not terrible expensive should you do decide you want either.
For example, the Class III hitch on my Silverado 1500 is rated at 5000lbs towing weight. With an weight distribution setup, the same hitch will handle 12K lbs (again assuming a vehicle is capable of safely hauling that weight. My Silverado will only tow 7800#)
An anti-sway bar is a bar that attaches to the trailer tongue and the hitch This is an example of a stand-alone sway control. Some weight distribution hitches have built-in anti-sway control.
Enclosed trailers are more prone to swaying sideways due to the large flat sides where cross winds or even wind from passing trucks can cause the trailer to move around. Anti-sway devices and/or a weight distribution system will help to stop that.
With an open trailer, I don't think that it's as big an issue. I don't use a weight distribution system on my open trailer as I have not had a real problem with weight (my trailer and car weigh 5300#). I do have air springs to help with the tongue weight and cargo load in the box. They also help with keeping everything level.
A weight distribution system can be added later so I would suggest that once you get the trailer and get the car properly loaded, add your cargo and see how it tows. If you are comfortable and don't see any problems, you may be fine without either device. And they are not terrible expensive should you do decide you want either.
05-31-2008, 03:39 PM
#24
Le Mans Master
Hey guys, 2 features everyone should have if they are going to tow.
Here's a link
One is this scale used to accurately weigh the tongue of your trailer. Believe me, your guesses/estimates have been wrong. I bought one and was shocked when I weighed the tongue of my trailer. Now I'm deadly accurate.
The other is this tire cradle that allows you to place one tire of the trailer in it and it raises the trailer so that changing the tire is easy.
I've towed tens of thousands of miles all over the east coast and I've had all kinds of issues. Here are some hints I'll lend you that I learned the hard way.
Make sure your trailer tires are in good shape. MAKE SURE they are aired up to the maximum written on the sidewall (Usually 65# or #75)
Trailers are notorious for tire blow outs. I had one while going through downtown Charlotte in the middle of traffic last week. When that happens, other than scaring the crap out of you, it now puts all the load carried by 2 tires on just one and that is a big problem. Even the best trailer tires are D rated and only good for ~2,500#'s. Now when a tire blows one tire is expected to handle 5,000#'s and that's not going to last very long.
Put your trailer spare, lug wrench, trailer jack all within easy reach so that you don't have to move the car to get to the stuff. Nothing would be more of a problem than having to get in the car and unload it to get to your tools.
Carry 2 trailer spares. It might be a while before you come to civilization again after a blowout and the spare you installed probably wasn't the pick of the litter when you picked it as the spare. Forewarned is forearmed.
One of the most important things you should do is stop at a big commercial truck stop and pull your whole rig across the truck scales. It'll cost you $7 or $8, but you will be astonished at how much all you stuff weighs.
I thought all my stuff (GMC 2500 crew cab diesel (not a dually) & 24' foot enclosed trailer (w/5,000# axles) full loaded with my 'Vette, extra wheels and track stuff for the weekend with just me and no passenger all weighed #17,100.
I think you'll be surprised, too.
Good luck and happy towing!
Here's a link
One is this scale used to accurately weigh the tongue of your trailer. Believe me, your guesses/estimates have been wrong. I bought one and was shocked when I weighed the tongue of my trailer. Now I'm deadly accurate.
The other is this tire cradle that allows you to place one tire of the trailer in it and it raises the trailer so that changing the tire is easy.
I've towed tens of thousands of miles all over the east coast and I've had all kinds of issues. Here are some hints I'll lend you that I learned the hard way.
Make sure your trailer tires are in good shape. MAKE SURE they are aired up to the maximum written on the sidewall (Usually 65# or #75)
Trailers are notorious for tire blow outs. I had one while going through downtown Charlotte in the middle of traffic last week. When that happens, other than scaring the crap out of you, it now puts all the load carried by 2 tires on just one and that is a big problem. Even the best trailer tires are D rated and only good for ~2,500#'s. Now when a tire blows one tire is expected to handle 5,000#'s and that's not going to last very long.
Put your trailer spare, lug wrench, trailer jack all within easy reach so that you don't have to move the car to get to the stuff. Nothing would be more of a problem than having to get in the car and unload it to get to your tools.
Carry 2 trailer spares. It might be a while before you come to civilization again after a blowout and the spare you installed probably wasn't the pick of the litter when you picked it as the spare. Forewarned is forearmed.
One of the most important things you should do is stop at a big commercial truck stop and pull your whole rig across the truck scales. It'll cost you $7 or $8, but you will be astonished at how much all you stuff weighs.
I thought all my stuff (GMC 2500 crew cab diesel (not a dually) & 24' foot enclosed trailer (w/5,000# axles) full loaded with my 'Vette, extra wheels and track stuff for the weekend with just me and no passenger all weighed #17,100.
I think you'll be surprised, too.
Good luck and happy towing!
05-31-2008, 03:44 PM
#25
Le Mans Master
Here's an example of an weight distribution or equalizer hitch. The concept is that the bars and hitch mount distributes more of the weight across the towing vehicle frame. With this type of system, you can carry a heavier load (assuming that the vehicle is capable of it) with not really requiring a bigger Class V hitch. They will also help to level the tow vehicle and trailer.
For example, the Class III hitch on my Silverado 1500 is rated at 5000lbs towing weight. With an weight distribution setup, the same hitch will handle 12K lbs (again assuming a vehicle is capable of safely hauling that weight. My Silverado will only tow 7800#)
An anti-sway bar is a bar that attaches to the trailer tongue and the hitch This is an example of a stand-alone sway control. Some weight distribution hitches have built-in anti-sway control.
Enclosed trailers are more prone to swaying sideways due to the large flat sides where cross winds or even wind from passing trucks can cause the trailer to move around. Anti-sway devices and/or a weight distribution system will help to stop that.
With an open trailer, I don't think that it's as big an issue. I don't use a weight distribution system on my open trailer as I have not had a real problem with weight (my trailer and car weigh 5300#). I do have air springs to help with the tongue weight and cargo load in the box. They also help with keeping everything level.
A weight distribution system can be added later so I would suggest that once you get the trailer and get the car properly loaded, add your cargo and see how it tows. If you are comfortable and don't see any problems, you may be fine without either device. And they are not terrible expensive should you do decide you want either.
For example, the Class III hitch on my Silverado 1500 is rated at 5000lbs towing weight. With an weight distribution setup, the same hitch will handle 12K lbs (again assuming a vehicle is capable of safely hauling that weight. My Silverado will only tow 7800#)
An anti-sway bar is a bar that attaches to the trailer tongue and the hitch This is an example of a stand-alone sway control. Some weight distribution hitches have built-in anti-sway control.
Enclosed trailers are more prone to swaying sideways due to the large flat sides where cross winds or even wind from passing trucks can cause the trailer to move around. Anti-sway devices and/or a weight distribution system will help to stop that.
With an open trailer, I don't think that it's as big an issue. I don't use a weight distribution system on my open trailer as I have not had a real problem with weight (my trailer and car weigh 5300#). I do have air springs to help with the tongue weight and cargo load in the box. They also help with keeping everything level.
A weight distribution system can be added later so I would suggest that once you get the trailer and get the car properly loaded, add your cargo and see how it tows. If you are comfortable and don't see any problems, you may be fine without either device. And they are not terrible expensive should you do decide you want either.
05-31-2008, 04:20 PM
#26
Melting Slicks
If you are looking for a great deal on a sway control and a equalizer hitch drop me an e-mail and I will give you the site. Don't know if any forum vendors sell these items. And don't want to get in trouble. Just bought both for under $225.00 to my door and they are name brand. JD
05-31-2008, 09:29 PM
#27
Melting Slicks
what's the best way to back the truck up and get it over the hitch ball accurately, when by yourself? (no backup camara).
what do I have to add to my Envoy V8 to get it to tow and how much should it cost?
what do I have to add to my Envoy V8 to get it to tow and how much should it cost?
05-31-2008, 09:42 PM
#28
Le Mans Master
06-01-2008, 10:12 AM
#30
Team Owner
They are a magnetic mount and are available from Harbor Freight. All you have to do is to back up until the tennis ***** just touch each other.After awhile you will learn to back up to the trailer with no aides. It just takes practice. After a year, I'm to the point where I can back my pickup right to the coupler and only be off a few inches on the first try.
With most trailers if you get within a couple inches, you can rock the trailer to get the coupler over the ball or to where lowering the tongue will force the coupler down on the ball. A loaded trailer is a different deal!!
06-01-2008, 01:27 PM
#32
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Feb 2000
Location: Bedford NH
Posts: 5,708
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Hey guys, 2 features everyone should have if they are going to tow.
Here's a link
One is this scale used to accurately weigh the tongue of your trailer. Believe me, your guesses/estimates have been wrong. I bought one and was shocked when I weighed the tongue of my trailer. Now I'm deadly accurate.
The other is this tire cradle that allows you to place one tire of the trailer in it and it raises the trailer so that changing the tire is easy.
I've towed tens of thousands of miles all over the east coast and I've had all kinds of issues. Here are some hints I'll lend you that I learned the hard way.
Make sure your trailer tires are in good shape. MAKE SURE they are aired up to the maximum written on the sidewall (Usually 65# or #75)
Trailers are notorious for tire blow outs. I had one while going through downtown Charlotte in the middle of traffic last week. When that happens, other than scaring the crap out of you, it now puts all the load carried by 2 tires on just one and that is a big problem. Even the best trailer tires are D rated and only good for ~2,500#'s. Now when a tire blows one tire is expected to handle 5,000#'s and that's not going to last very long.
Put your trailer spare, lug wrench, trailer jack all within easy reach so that you don't have to move the car to get to the stuff. Nothing would be more of a problem than having to get in the car and unload it to get to your tools.
Carry 2 trailer spares. It might be a while before you come to civilization again after a blowout and the spare you installed probably wasn't the pick of the litter when you picked it as the spare. Forewarned is forearmed.
One of the most important things you should do is stop at a big commercial truck stop and pull your whole rig across the truck scales. It'll cost you $7 or $8, but you will be astonished at how much all you stuff weighs.
I thought all my stuff (GMC 2500 crew cab diesel (not a dually) & 24' foot enclosed trailer (w/5,000# axles) full loaded with my 'Vette, extra wheels and track stuff for the weekend with just me and no passenger all weighed #17,100.
I think you'll be surprised, too.
Good luck and happy towing!
Here's a link
One is this scale used to accurately weigh the tongue of your trailer. Believe me, your guesses/estimates have been wrong. I bought one and was shocked when I weighed the tongue of my trailer. Now I'm deadly accurate.
The other is this tire cradle that allows you to place one tire of the trailer in it and it raises the trailer so that changing the tire is easy.
I've towed tens of thousands of miles all over the east coast and I've had all kinds of issues. Here are some hints I'll lend you that I learned the hard way.
Make sure your trailer tires are in good shape. MAKE SURE they are aired up to the maximum written on the sidewall (Usually 65# or #75)
Trailers are notorious for tire blow outs. I had one while going through downtown Charlotte in the middle of traffic last week. When that happens, other than scaring the crap out of you, it now puts all the load carried by 2 tires on just one and that is a big problem. Even the best trailer tires are D rated and only good for ~2,500#'s. Now when a tire blows one tire is expected to handle 5,000#'s and that's not going to last very long.
Put your trailer spare, lug wrench, trailer jack all within easy reach so that you don't have to move the car to get to the stuff. Nothing would be more of a problem than having to get in the car and unload it to get to your tools.
Carry 2 trailer spares. It might be a while before you come to civilization again after a blowout and the spare you installed probably wasn't the pick of the litter when you picked it as the spare. Forewarned is forearmed.
One of the most important things you should do is stop at a big commercial truck stop and pull your whole rig across the truck scales. It'll cost you $7 or $8, but you will be astonished at how much all you stuff weighs.
I thought all my stuff (GMC 2500 crew cab diesel (not a dually) & 24' foot enclosed trailer (w/5,000# axles) full loaded with my 'Vette, extra wheels and track stuff for the weekend with just me and no passenger all weighed #17,100.
I think you'll be surprised, too.
Good luck and happy towing!
06-01-2008, 09:50 PM
#34
Racer
Thread Starter
Thank you very much! I would use at LEAST a 5 second rule!
I do not understand the recommendation for not using a load leveling hitch, but I have to assume that Honda has a very good reason . I tow with an 07 Silverado 2500 HD and the interior is beautiful, and it works great in snow, trust me, we had ample opportunity this last (record snow dating back to 1876) winter. Get the sway controller anyway, it is cheap and effective. As far as the cables go, they are 3/8 inch steel wire rope and were pre-made with the swaged ends. They are rated for something like 2k pounds each, and in the front, times 2, crossed this is way more than adequate. I use the ratchet tie downs in the rear and crank the ratchets against them. You can make your own at any length by using a couple of cable clamps at each end. If you can't find them at Home Depot, AW direct can help you as well.
I do not understand the recommendation for not using a load leveling hitch, but I have to assume that Honda has a very good reason
. I tow with an 07 Silverado 2500 HD and the interior is beautiful, and it works great in snow, trust me, we had ample opportunity this last (record snow dating back to 1876) winter. Get the sway controller anyway, it is cheap and effective. As far as the cables go, they are 3/8 inch steel wire rope and were pre-made with the swaged ends. They are rated for something like 2k pounds each, and in the front, times 2, crossed this is way more than adequate. I use the ratchet tie downs in the rear and crank the ratchets against them. You can make your own at any length by using a couple of cable clamps at each end. If you can't find them at Home Depot, AW direct can help you as well.I re-read the MDX manual ... I stand corrected:o . It is the Weight Distribution Hitch that is *NOT* recommended. They *DO* recomment the sway control device. Any brand you recommend?
06-02-2008, 12:39 AM
#35
Le Mans Master
06-02-2008, 09:33 AM
#36
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I've never seen a standard receiver mount that has this plate with the hole for the sway control, though I guess it's possible that someone out there makes one.
One of the best controls is made by Drawtite.
I've seen the sway controls made by Curt at Summit, they just don't have the quality that Drawtite has.
06-02-2008, 11:55 AM
#37
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Feb 2000
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[QUOTE=Bill Hetzel;1565716171]To use a sway control bar, you'll still need the weight distributing receiver mount (the heavy one). This mount has the extra hole fo install the ball for the sway control.
I've never seen a standard receiver mount that has this plate with the hole for the sway control, though I guess it's possible that someone out there makes one.
One of the best controls is made by Drawtite.
QUOTE]
I've never seen a standard receiver mount that has this plate with the hole for the sway control, though I guess it's possible that someone out there makes one.
One of the best controls is made by Drawtite.
QUOTE]
07-22-2014, 08:30 AM
#38
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Also in the market for an aluminum car trailer. Sold my steel trailer and looking at the numerous manufacturers. I had an experience with a Famous lite brand trailer ( would never degrade a known manufactured ) many years ago. Loaded a 73 Jeep wagoneer on it and towed it about thirty miles. Granted some of it was gravel with some pot holes. I noticed a slight bend in the trailer body when unloaded. ( more like a banana )
It was a rented trailer and this is the reason I went with a steel replacement. Being on the cautious side I inquired about the type / thickness of the main runners in a 18' open car hauler with the above firm. They danced about the question and would not release any specs. Not that I want to steal their trade secrets but I would like to compare them with other manufacturers. If they get a couple grand more per unit I want to know I am paying for quality, not name recognition and advertising from some racer.
I'm also checking R&R and Aluma brands which appear to have good quality control with nice optional features. I just want a suitable trailer that hauls my toys without bends / cracks, and tows, with a braking system I can be relaxed with.
I have built a number of steel trailers including one for a track excavator.
It was a rented trailer and this is the reason I went with a steel replacement. Being on the cautious side I inquired about the type / thickness of the main runners in a 18' open car hauler with the above firm. They danced about the question and would not release any specs. Not that I want to steal their trade secrets but I would like to compare them with other manufacturers. If they get a couple grand more per unit I want to know I am paying for quality, not name recognition and advertising from some racer.
I'm also checking R&R and Aluma brands which appear to have good quality control with nice optional features. I just want a suitable trailer that hauls my toys without bends / cracks, and tows, with a braking system I can be relaxed with.
I have built a number of steel trailers including one for a track excavator.
Last edited by chevahaulic; 07-22-2014 at 08:35 AM. Reason: Spell check would be useful.
07-22-2014, 06:18 PM
#39
Gasoline Addict
What should one expect to pay for a used aluminum car hauler? I have seen new ones anywhere from $4,500 to over $7,000, and its more than I am willing to spend.
