Procrastination Racing

This is very similar to the Dively Manufacturing/Econo trailer I bought two years ago. The Model number tells the story:
ET - Econo Trailer
15 - 15 ft deck
102 - 102 inches width

The deck on mine is 15' 1/2" long. Tongue is 5' 5" to tip of hitch. Fenders are 8-1/2" above the deck. Weight is about 1350 lbs.

As I have seen several with tire racks, the axle placement may have been intentional for installing a tire rack. This would allow better placement of the car, imho.

Get the 4 wheel braking, if ordering. IF only 2 wheel brakes, be sure they are on the FRONT axle and not the rear. If the trailer leaves the tow vehicle, the angle will be such that there is almost no braking force delivered from the rear wheels.

More you should read about trailers.
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/D.../trailer3.html

There are two things wrong with it that I have found.

1. Trailer axles are too far forward. They are about center on the deck. This means the car sits too far forward to achieve best tongue weight for towing. Part of this is personal preference. I prefer my car back on the deck, not over the front edge.

2. The rear crossmember reduces clearance by about 4 inches. This is critical in some dips and driveways. I'm cutting mine out and moving it up flush with the deck. To hold the ramps, I'm welding 1/4 x 4 flatstock across the bottom.

Things I don't like but are personal preferences:

1. Front tie down loops too close to the car. I set up places further forward.

2. Car placement too far forward to acheive balance.

3. Center bar in the front section. I like this open so I can get under the front to attach the tie downs easier. In fact, I like the deck ramps to be open from front about 2 ft back to ease getting under the front.

4. Trailer is a bit low. It tows nice, but doesn't work as well as a portable lift to work under at the track or at home.

5. More lights needed. I like several on the very rear to be sure it is seen even if a few fail while driving. Also, a pair of amber on the front fenders so you can see the fenders at night, both towing and when backing.

Good things I like:

1. Light weight, tows very well.

2. Easy loading.

3. Tongue jack is back, so that truck trailgate doesn't hit if down.

4. Uses 2-15/16 ball, instead of the 2" ball.

5. Wiring is well protected.

6. Well made, good welds.

7. Not nearly as heavy as many. Some look like they are built to carry 10,000 lbs cargo, and that weight adds up to increased costs towing.

If in doubt that it will fit, drive the Corvette over, ask if you can load it to see if it fits, and try it on for size.

Take two jackstands to place under the rear of the trailer in case they don't have a truck to hook it to.

Cobra4B

^ Thanks

WNeal

I have used both a 16' and an 18' open trailer and both did just fine.

I had to put the left side on a flat 2'x10' board in order to get the door open. Had I not lowered the car, I would not have had to to this.

NavyVet

We use a 19.5 foot (deck) Featherlite. Even with the fender off, our race car's door is blocked by the tires (lowered 99 FRC). I called Pit Pal Products and they made me a pair of aluminum ramps 2 feet long and 14 inches wide that are bolted to the trailer deck. They are heavily braced and give the lift needed for door clearance (barely). We tow a lot and I never liked keeping only one side raised - don't really know if it matters though.

Notes on towing -> brakes on all four trailer wheels, properly adjusted trailer brake controller, check wheel bearings regularly, grease the hitch ball, position car with stops to maintain trailer at level with correct tongue weight (load truck and trailer with your normal race weekend stuff first), and remember trailer tires wear out from sun, not miles. We replace every other year regardless and we cover them when it's parked too.