93-383

Is the stock c4 oil pan sufficant to prevent loss of oil press in an
auto-x event I just finished a 383 build and the last thing I want to do is destroy my new brngs.

Solo2GS

In Auto-x yes. Never had any problems. I also usually add and extra qt too. You just don't hold a corner as long as you would compared to on a high G turn on a high speed track.

Knock on wood, I have never had any pressure issues on the high speed track either as of yet...

Slalom4me

My vote is that because 'auto-x event' can describe a wide variety
of circumstances, more information is required about the kind of event(s)
you plan to participate in, along with the level of car preparation.

A difference between the stock C4 L98 pan and the popular aftermarket
pan is that the OEM pickup is positioned significantly forward (mid-sump)
compared to the location of the aftermarket pickup. This, together
with the OEM tray and sump baffle may be a more desirable configuration
for keeping oil at the pickup in events with heavy sustained braking.

OTOH, the rearward pickup in the aftermarket pan might be better
for powerful cars with good grip in events with stretches for
lengthy acceleration. Also, the additional capacity of the aftermarket
pan may be important for engines with high volume pumps and
aftermarket heads that have been found to retain oil in the top end.

While it doesn't solve all problems, an aftermarket pan is one of the
smaller outlays to make for an engine. If the engine is still on the
stand, installation will be very easy at this point in time, it is a bit more
work in the chassis but not a show-stopper. If you proceed, be aware
you will need to exchange the 3 OEM main cap windage tray studs for
regular main cap bolts.

A stock pan with an accumulator and a pressure-sensing electric valve
like the Accusump w/ EPC electric valve is an approach that might
have worked for my stockish L98. Instead, I first went with the
aftermarket pan and then switched to a custom pan when I noticed
oil control issues on hard braking. Some kind of accumulator set-up
will be added this winter.

If it is not practical/economic for you to change now, then consider
installing a low oil pressure light. With a few fittings, you can plumb
a remote pressure switch that tees in where the OEM sensor(s)
mount at the back by the distributor. They aren't handy at the
moment but I can provide p/n's on request. Run a wire into the cockpit
and mount the warning light where it will be visible.

With a stock pan, drive with a thought to what is going on in the
bottom end - if you accelerate hard into a serpentine section, make it
through several left/right gates and then spin, don't jump right back
on the gas and fish-tail away at high RPM. Abort the run, pause for a
moment to check the gauges, let things settle in the engine and then
slowly pull away to complete the lap(s).

.

96GS#007

Whew, tired me out reading Slalom's response but I thought it was a great one

rasrboy

I run a accusump with a check valve,oil cooler & remote filter and knock on wood I have had no issues, even on 33 degree banking with non DOT slicks at 145MPH.

I have run this set up for about 10 years, and when plumbed right, it works!

Aaron