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Wilwood E vs. Q compounds for SL6 caliper

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Old 12-16-2005, 09:34 AM
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95jersey
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Now that's a BIG picture. It looks like an anodized orange or gold? For a couple hundred LG will match them to my rear (bright red). Usually, I am not the kind of person to care about looks, but if you are paying that kind of $$$$, you should get what you really want.
Old 12-16-2005, 09:36 AM
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John Shiels
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Originally Posted by 95jersey
But I don't have the spindals. To be honest I run Carbotech's hottest pad XP11 on both front and rear, and my rotor failure has not increased. I usually get about 2-3 events on a rotor, which is 100% acceptable by me, but are you guys saying that with the wilwood caliper that will increase this cracking significantly?

I also did go with the BP-10. Anthony at LG told me about that compound, seems similiar to the E, but with better street manners.

Also, I wanted them in red and apparently Wilwood does not make them in red (they have red ones on their website?). LG has to get the caliper, dismantle it, send it out to be powder coated in red, then reassembled and ship out to me (1 month) What's up with that? I thought you could get these things in red out of the factory?
You have the DRM ducts? DRM / LG ducts finish the package. Stop faster = more heat as energy must go some where.
Old 12-16-2005, 09:42 AM
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95jersey
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looks like I might need them now...I should have always had them, but I was getting 3 days out of a set of rotors without them, and was happy with that.
Old 12-16-2005, 09:52 AM
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Dylan Savage
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Yea, I get pad taper with the wilwoods but it's top to bottom rather than inside to outside. The stockers taper because they are bending.

It's also impossible to rectify the taper in the stockers because you can't flip the pads inside out. You can flip the pads top to bottom so you still get full life out of the pads and you don't have a problem with only the leading edge doing your braking like you do with the stock ones.

LG told me you get the pad taper when you're really braking hard regardless of what calipers you have.
Old 12-16-2005, 10:14 AM
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Does LGM do anything custom to the brake kit to make it "better" than direct from Wilwood?
Old 12-16-2005, 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by John Shiels
I went with the Stoptech 2 piece from LG because the rotor replacement was cheaper and I hope they vent better also than stock.
If I break these, I guess I can take Stoptech rotors and bolt up to the Wilwood hats, to maintain the right offset to the calipers, right?
Old 12-16-2005, 11:34 AM
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95jersey
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Originally Posted by Cobra4B
Does LGM do anything custom to the brake kit to make it "better" than direct from Wilwood?
They use a wider caliper to accept a fatter pad, so you get more bang for the buck. As for performance, don't think there is any difference. I also beleive LG includes better mounting hardware (aircraft grade).
Old 12-16-2005, 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by 95jersey
They use a wider caliper to accept a fatter pad, so you get more bang for the buck. As for performance, don't think there is any difference. I also beleive LG includes better mounting hardware (aircraft grade).
That wouldn't make any sense... so does LG modify the calipers from Wilwood then make thicker pads?
Old 12-17-2005, 05:13 AM
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those caliper were black and I couldn't even remember. The heat cooked them. Thicker pad means more insulation,
Old 12-17-2005, 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by John Shiels
I went with the Stoptech 2 piece from LG because the rotor replacement was cheaper and I hope they vent better also than stock.
Are you using Stoptech Calipers, and 17 inch rims or did you switch to 18 in the front. Talked with a guy at Stoptech Friday and was told that to use 17 inch wheels I would have to space the wheels out?
Old 12-17-2005, 10:36 AM
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John,
If you have been running these at temps that discolor the anodizing, you should at least change the seals. Are you running the good pistons? BTW, the SL6 calipers are available in several widths, and the wide one is cheaper. It all depends on wheel clearance.
Old 12-17-2005, 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Highroller
Are you using Stoptech Calipers, and 17 inch rims or did you switch to 18 in the front. Talked with a guy at Stoptech Friday and was told that to use 17 inch wheels I would have to space the wheels out?

Yep Gary I was think the same thing when I found out they were black. Can't believe I never noticed it. Guess it's like an aging face you never notice it but you get older. I have the good pistons in them. I was thinking of some blowers in the brake ducts for more air.

The rears will never get as hot as the fronts so I will have to swap the 4 piston Wilwoods in front and 6 piston in rear till the color matches for a few events

I just put 13" stoptech two peice rotors on the front. Now I was trying to decide if I want to put 4 piston Wilwood on the back with 13 Stoptech rotors. It probably won't stop much if any better but it should last forever in the rear. Bigger rotor than stock more rear bias but I may run the E compound out back if I need to. I would like a breke bias valve to tweak it.I could go 14" rotors in the front but them my GS wheels won't fit and I am trying to get 3 sets of tires so I am never short.`

Next option is all Stoptech calipers 14/13 rotors then I need two sets of rims to have three. This get very expensive I like the new CCW's in 18" for my third set of wheels.

If I keep all 13" stoptech rotors I can just carry some NAPA's for a spare or two replacement Stoptech rotors as all will be the same.

Last edited by John Shiels; 12-17-2005 at 08:52 PM.
Old 12-18-2005, 09:42 AM
  #33  
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It is not really a matter of number of pistons, you can get a small piston 6 piston SL caliper for the rear (that is what I did). In addition, if you are not using the ABS, a brake fluid recirculation system will keep the caliper and the fluid much cooler. If you use a radial mount caliper as opposed to a lug mount, you can run different sized rotors depending on the track. For example, at LRP where the braking requirements are not that severe, why not run a smaller rotor, and run the biggie at NHIS where if your brakes die, so do you. Don't forget that not only does the big rotor have a unsprung weight penalty, it has an acceleration and deceleration penalty that is much greater in effect than the couple of pounds that would seem obvious due to the rotational inertia.
Old 12-18-2005, 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by ghoffman
....In addition, if you are not using the ABS, a brake fluid recirculation system will keep the caliper and the fluid much cooler....
Brake fluid recirculation system? Never heard that one before.
Old 12-18-2005, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by TooManyIDs
If I break these, I guess I can take Stoptech rotors and bolt up to the Wilwood hats, to maintain the right offset to the calipers, right?
The wilwood hats will not work with the Stop tech rotors and vice versa.
I did use a Stop tech 6 piston front and a Wilwood 6 piston rear until Stop tech came out with the 4 piston rear combination and a 13 " rotor. We did n't want to run a 14" rotor on the rear for all the stated reasons.

We now have 14" stoptech 6 piston package on the front and a 13" Stoptech 4 piston on the rear and I can say that I have never had a better pedal in a long time. These brakes are the best for the money as far as I can tell.

Cost and application are always a factor in brake choice, so that is why we built our own stock replacement package using a Wilwood front 6 piston caliper that takes wide pads and stock size rotors. That means that you can use any rotor from a stock "Napa" rotor to a stop tech 2 piece stock 13" replacement.

On my new Z06, I have Stopetech 6 piston 14" package up front and the stock rear calipers on the rear. So far I have not needed to upgrade the rear but we will see.

450 degrees on the front calipers (not rotors but calipers) is usually the red flag for us as the time to replace seals. At that temp, the seals start to get crispy and hard, so even though they may not leak, they do not allow the pistons to move like when they were new, and the pads will drag on the rotor. Anyway, it would be a good thing to put a "Temp strip" on your calipers to track how hot they get and install new seals when you hit the magic 450 degrees.

The other thing we do is use our brake Spindle Ducts which when combined with the plastic brake duct from Rippie for a C5 or the stock brake duct on a C6 Z06 provide enough cooling for anything you can throw at it.

I have our Spindle ducts on my Z06 with a 3 1/4" hose to the plastic stock brake duct and I have not seen a single brake issue in 3 track days, and I am very hard on brakes. We changed the fluid to Castrol SRF when we put the Stop tech calipers on, and only had to bleed them once after the first session, and haven't touched them since.

At any rate, there are plenty of choices out there to fit every budget. A 14" solution is the easiest to maintain because it will be close to overkill for track days.

Our LG G-Stop in house Wilwood package does allow for a larger rotor down the road if you want to upgrade your package with just a spacer kit, since our package is a Radial Mount. We have all the details on that.

Thanks

Lou Gigliotti Lgm
Old 12-18-2005, 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by TooManyIDs
Brake fluid recirculation system? Never heard that one before.
It is just a system of one way check valves and a return line from the calipers back to the master cylinder so the HOT fluid is removed from the caliper and recirculated back to the master. It requires a complete second set of brake lines to be run so the fluid has a return path.

it was developed for Nascar Bristol and Martinsville where the 3800 pound NASCAR racers cold race for 400 miles on a 5/8 mile bull ring.

LG

Photo below shows the brake duct on the C6 spindle. along with our LG Coil over package that we sell for the street as well


Last edited by LG Motorsports; 12-18-2005 at 11:40 AM.
Old 12-18-2005, 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by TooManyIDs
Brake fluid recirculation system? Never heard that one before.
The comment by LG is correct, here is a pic of the SL6R caliper on my car last year. You can see the line that connects the caliper bleeds to an exit hose that connects to the other side caliper and returns the fluid back to the master cylinder. This means that in addition to having cooler fluid in the caliper, it is self-bleeding as well. The pedal is rock hard at all times, after it is all bled the first time.

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Old 12-18-2005, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by ghoffman
It is not really a matter of number of pistons, you can get a small piston 6 piston SL caliper for the rear (that is what I did). In addition, if you are not using the ABS, a brake fluid recirculation system will keep the caliper and the fluid much cooler. If you use a radial mount caliper as opposed to a lug mount, you can run different sized rotors depending on the track. For example, at LRP where the braking requirements are not that severe, why not run a smaller rotor, and run the biggie at NHIS where if your brakes die, so do you. Don't forget that not only does the big rotor have a unsprung weight penalty, it has an acceleration and deceleration penalty that is much greater in effect than the couple of pounds that would seem obvious due to the rotational inertia.

I didn't think the 6 piston was available with small enough pistons. I'll probably stay with the 13" rotors also for all the reasons we both stated. I due want to keep the ABS but probably don't need it as I never had it on a motorcycles. Difference in 4 to six piston is pocket change. If money was no object I'd say OK Stoptech front and rear 5-5500. two new sets of CCW rims in 18" 5200, need wincg at 8-900, ramps at 450, and a new clutch setup at 1700 + labor. Another great winter

I bought some Alcon strips but misplaced them but just recently found them. As I remember the caliper temps were ove 450 with the heat gun last year. Fans in the ducts worth it? Thanks for your help everyone
After researching the clutch I have learned more about rotational inertia. Fun as I keep learning and draining my accounts. Then again a bus could run me over next week and every extra penny in the bank won't matter. Keep it all till your old and you can't have any fun with it either if you get there.

Last edited by John Shiels; 12-18-2005 at 11:47 AM.
Old 12-18-2005, 12:28 PM
  #39  
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I just see 1.62, 1.12, 1.12 for the SL6 or 1.68, 1.12, 1.12 what other sizes are avaiable to match stock rears in 6 piston? Thanks
Old 12-18-2005, 12:55 PM
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Yes, that is as small is they get, so if that is still too big then yes perhaps a small 4 would be better, but with adjustable brake bias and the recirculator (both are easier without ABS), you should have no more brake overtemp issues (at least until you get the 427!).


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