mr.beachcomber

To respond to the original thread's question, I haven't see a loss of pressure running the Accusump in the past as long as the the number of 90 degree fittings and the hose length were mininimized. The Accusump is really only a safety measure to ensure minimum oil pressure when the oil pickup on the pump can't pick up any oil for whatever reason.

I have seen pressure drops hooking up oil coolers especially if the cooler itself is a serpentine flow type of cooler (as opposed to the stacked plate type). Since the object is to move the oil cooler into the airstream somewhere it will do some good, I've always installed a HV oil pump with the oil cooler to maintain a good flow of oil to the mains.

Since switching over to synthetic oil years ago, I wouldn't go back to dino oil even if it were free. I've talked with both Mobil 1 and Red Line reps about optimum oil temp, and they both agree that around 210F in the pan is best. (Of course the oil in the mains is usually 10 degrees hotter!) I don't know of any synthetic oil company that doesn't recommend an oil cooler installation if their product consistently sees 300F temperatures during use.

One item of note though, the current stock C5's and C6's generate the same or higher numbers for top end speed and cornering ability than some of the B Production racers I ran back in the 70's. If you're going to run HPDE or other such track days, I would recommend the installation of an Accusump as a minimum along with a road racing oil pan, HV oil pump, and oil cooler for those really pushing the envelope with a stock Corvette. Also, don't forget your differential oil cooler if you're racing T1, GT1, or ITE! YMMV

- Greg Smith

the blur

and how bout the winning T1 car with NO oil cooler. We all seem to forget about that............

sleeper02Z06

How about realizing that the runoffs was 20 laps plus all pratice and quals on one motor, not multiple races or multiple seasons on one motor, this car was built for the runoffs, and the longevity of the car was of no concern when a shop is trying to win at the national level. If I had the money to not care about longevity, and could afford to put a new motor in my T1 car every race if needed, plus the additional gain of saving a few pounds of wieght by not running the cooler, I would race with no cooler as well. Most don't have the luxury of this, so adding a cooler for longevity, multiple races not just one, is what people do.

This arguement about Hienricy's "no oil cooler" winning car is getting long in tooth, especially when people talk, yet know little about it........

Joe Gaudette

Mikelly

Joe, Joe, Joe...

Preach on Brotha', PREACH ON!

Mike (who is in 110% agreement!)

Rob's 73

Alright guys help me do the right thing. I've seen oil temps in the 290s and water in the 230s. This was Oct at Summit.

I plan on doing something about it this winter but don't know what route to go. Dwitt's has a Rad/Oil cooler combo for $625. Doug Rippie has their kit for Rad/Oil Cooler combo for ~$1300.

Is it safer to use a separate oil cooler? If separate what about a theremostat? Doesn't that add more restrictions ? Can I add a shut off valve for street use?

Accusump? Do I need one?

What do I do?

the blur

Can you guys document 1 motor failure due to substained high oil temps????

can you show us 1 oil analysis where blackstone or similiar said the oil was burnt, or should not be taken to the 320 mark????

0C5stein

Okay Rob, here is what I would do if it were my car:
Install a stand alone oil cooler (like the kits that we sell) and tape up the cooler for street driving durring the winter. MSI's kit is $645 and it includes an aluminum manifold, gasket, -8 or -10 an lines and fittings (which ever is your preference) and a Setrab oil cooler and mount http://www.motorsportimage.com/produ...ine/engine.htm. It is an easy Saturday install and you will be very happy with your reduced oil temps at the track. Simply cooling your oil will probably reduce your water temps by 5 -10 degrees, so I wouldn't swap radiators until your car gets some miles on it and you decide it is time to change the radiator. Then I would put in an aluminum two core (1 1/8 - 1 3/8" per core) radiator.

Our thermostat is a better way to go for a car driven on the street durring the winter, if you are looking for "no hassel" set up, but a little duct tape or sheet metal to block air flow, would work fine.

Now if I was 'the blur', I would probably leave it alone and set the DIC to anything but "oil temp" and not worry about it. (sorry, I just couldn't help myself ) Like I say "that is why they make Chocolate and vanilla, 'cause different people like different things".

Rob's 73

pros cons of 8 an or 10 an?

Slalom4me

A couple of considerations are that -8 is easier to route because
of its smaller ouside dimension (and its ability to form smaller radius
bends) but there is somewhat more pressure drop than there is
with -10.

.

0Randy@DRM

Rob 73,
Our kit includes all the an lines, fittings, block adapter, gasket, brass fittings, peacock, everything you need to install the package. Not just the radiator. I can sell you just the radiator also if you already have the rest of the stuff. Just for the record, I sell this setup to Forum members for 1195.

Randy

luvmy92

I have a 19 row Mocal oil cooler, Be-Cool radiator, 3 quart accusump and Canton road racing pan on my stroked (385) LT1 motor. I removed my AC so I could mount the oil cooler in front of the radiator, but this is still a street car.

I have a 160 thermostat and the chip has been modified to turn the fans on sooner. All of the fittings and hose are -10. I do all of my HPDE's down here in Florida and this car can run all day without overheating, regardless of outside temp.

The water has never been north of 210 degrees and the oil hasn't been north of 260. This is on a stroker motor with most shifts being made between 6100 and 6300 rpm (shift lite is set at 6100).

Not sure of what your plans are but I can tell you this setup works for me. The oil cooler was $190, radiator about $550, Accusump was $150 and the Canton pan was $275. All the fittings and hose, electronic valve, oil input adapter, pump, etc was another $600 or so. I think that's a small price to pay for some peace of mind.

Mike

Rob's 73

Randy,

How much for the separate oil cooler setup?

What are the advantages/disadvantages with a combined Rad/Oil cooler? Any problems with one or the other?

0Randy@DRM

PM sent to you Rob 73!!!

Jeff,
I went back and read your post. What block adapter are you using? This could be a small factor in the pressure area. I would like to see a pic of the block adapter. I don't what it is.

Randy

0Randy@DRM

Here is a new thread about oil coolers
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...post1553042932

John Shiels

works great Randy

Now if I was 'the blur', I would probably leave it alone and set the DIC to anything but "oil temp" and not worry about it. (sorry, I just couldn't help myself ) Like I say "that is why they make Chocolate and vanilla, 'cause different people like different things".
__________________

silverz06vette

I helped the new owner of my old Z06 install a DRM combo cooler and remote filter this past w/e. He got it finished up and drove it yesterday on the street. He said at cruise the oil pressure is about 5psi lower then it was without the cooler and remote filter.

We didn't have enough time to install the accusump.

Going to Road Atlanta this w/e.

Any thoughts?

0Randy@DRM

Run the factory recomended quart over and give her hell. Drive smooth and fast all day without worrys. Just make sure you are over filled on oil. No cooler, or accusump will help the bad pan design.

Randy

silverz06vette

Thanks Randy!

He is gonna drive sat and both of us on sunday.

Is it still a quart over the high fill line with the cooler? Looks like thats what you are telling me.

jdonnelly

Randy:

The adaptor was xtreme motorsports with -10 fittings. It was the Xtreme Oil Cooler Adapter for LS1/LS6 http://www.xmsengineering.com/engine/ you have to scroll down to see it. Any chance it was part of the problem?

Jeff

Rob's 73

[QUOTE=silverz06vette]I helped the new owner of my old Z06 install a DRM combo cooler and remote filter this past w/e. He got it finished up and drove it yesterday on the street. He said at cruise the oil pressure is about 5psi lower then it was without the cooler and remote filter.
QUOTE]


So no worries on the 5psi loss?

Thanks for the PM Randy. How about a GP on the combo?