C5 box for a 10w7??
#1
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C5 box for a 10w7??
Anyone out there make one???? Thinking about doing the system finally in my car and I'm going with a 10w7.TIA
#2
Subthump does sell the c5 boxes, allthough they are not deep enough for a W7, he can add a spacer ring to it, or you can invert the subwoofer. Inverting is always a good way to show off your $$ as well as a nice subwoofer.
check out his site, www.subthump.com
maybe that will help ya
check out his site, www.subthump.com
maybe that will help ya
#3
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Originally Posted by snoopdan
Subthump does sell the c5 boxes, allthough they are not deep enough for a W7, he can add a spacer ring to it, or you can invert the subwoofer. Inverting is always a good way to show off your $$ as well as a nice subwoofer.
check out his site, www.subthump.com
maybe that will help ya
check out his site, www.subthump.com
maybe that will help ya
#4
oops forgot that a JL W7 12" is 11.25 inches deep. Ok, invert it, mount it sideways! wait, thats too tall stil.. oh well. at least I can admit when im wrong. I have no idea what cabin height is in the trunk of a C5. I never claimed I did. Allthough, id image that it is at least 12" tall in the trunk. Its not like anyone's gonna jump up and actually do anything anyone says on this forum without making sure its correct anyways. geezz
#5
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Originally Posted by snoopdan
oops forgot that a JL W7 12" is 11.25 inches deep. Ok, invert it, mount it sideways! wait, thats too tall stil.. oh well. at least I can admit when im wrong. I have no idea what cabin height is in the trunk of a C5. I never claimed I did. Allthough, id image that it is at least 12" tall in the trunk. Its not like anyone's gonna jump up and actually do anything anyone says on this forum without making sure its correct anyways. geezz
#6
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Dimensions:
Frame Diameter: 10.5 in. (267 mm)
Mounting Hole Diameter: 8.74 in. (222 mm)
Mounting Depth: 8 in. (203 mm)
Overall Depth: 9.63 in. (245 mm)
Magnet Diameter: 6.55 in. (166 mm)
Pole Vent Clearance: 0.75 in. (19 mm)
Displacement: 0.09 cu. ft. (1.78 ltrs)
Enclosure Recommendations:
Sealed Range: 1.00 - 1.375 cu. ft. (28.3 - 38.9 ltrs)
Recommended Sealed Volume: 1.25 cu. ft. (35.4 ltrs.)
Fc: 44.7 Hz
F3: 40.7 Hz
Qtc: 0.785
Ported Range: 1.125 - 1.5 cu. ft. (31.9 - 42.5 ltrs)
Recommended Ported Volume: 1.5 cu. ft. (42.5 ltrs)
Recommended Tuning: 32 Hz
Port Type: “Slot” ports are recommended. See Data Sheet for detailed info
The info I got off JL's site
Frame Diameter: 10.5 in. (267 mm)
Mounting Hole Diameter: 8.74 in. (222 mm)
Mounting Depth: 8 in. (203 mm)
Overall Depth: 9.63 in. (245 mm)
Magnet Diameter: 6.55 in. (166 mm)
Pole Vent Clearance: 0.75 in. (19 mm)
Displacement: 0.09 cu. ft. (1.78 ltrs)
Enclosure Recommendations:
Sealed Range: 1.00 - 1.375 cu. ft. (28.3 - 38.9 ltrs)
Recommended Sealed Volume: 1.25 cu. ft. (35.4 ltrs.)
Fc: 44.7 Hz
F3: 40.7 Hz
Qtc: 0.785
Ported Range: 1.125 - 1.5 cu. ft. (31.9 - 42.5 ltrs)
Recommended Ported Volume: 1.5 cu. ft. (42.5 ltrs)
Recommended Tuning: 32 Hz
Port Type: “Slot” ports are recommended. See Data Sheet for detailed info
The info I got off JL's site
#7
You could still do it, with a bit of engineering. You could easily order a subthump box with the top unattached. Mount it under the top plate of the enclosure. So whats complicated about that?
Its still just a speaker.
Its still just a speaker.
#8
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This is the stuff I'm thinking about getting:
JL Audio 10W7 $429.00
Phoenix Gold Ti600.2 $718.00 for 2 amps
Alpine CDA-9835 $439.00
Focal 165W3 $949.00
Sub-Total: $2,535.00
or
JL Audio 10W7 $429.00
Phoenix Gold Ti600.2 $718.00 for 2 amps
Alpine CDA-9835 $439.00
DynAudio System 360 $819.00
Sub-Total: $2,405.00
+Dynamat ,wiring kits,box,andhead unit mount
JL Audio 10W7 $429.00
Phoenix Gold Ti600.2 $718.00 for 2 amps
Alpine CDA-9835 $439.00
Focal 165W3 $949.00
Sub-Total: $2,535.00
or
JL Audio 10W7 $429.00
Phoenix Gold Ti600.2 $718.00 for 2 amps
Alpine CDA-9835 $439.00
DynAudio System 360 $819.00
Sub-Total: $2,405.00
+Dynamat ,wiring kits,box,andhead unit mount
#9
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Soon as the pics are approved I'll post a pics of what I'm thinking about for a box design.
#10
I emailed Steve at subthump.com about a similar issue for the 10w6. The 10w6 is about .1" less deep than the W7, but....
He suggested that you can use the spacer ring as Snoopdan suggested above as one option. Although Steve said that he would choose a different route which would be to cut a hole in the bottom of the box and replace it with a cap to add some depth. Apparently the C5's storage area is a little deeper in the middle and he suggested that you should be able to get the minimum 3/4 between the pole vent and the bottom of the box using the cap and still be able to mount the box flush at the top.
Granted, this is for the W6 and not the W7. I don't know how much extra space is really down there so I don't know how much room you have to play with in the storage area.
Something else to consider is that, as I understand it, the W7 is so heavy that you need 1" thick MDF to mount it. The standard 3/4" MDF that is used (including subthump boxes) will not be strong enough. Again, this is just what I understand from folks who use this sub, and not personal experience. So, a) you will need a custom box made as the production boxes are not 1" thick at the top) and b) this will add a little more starting clearance since the sub will actually be .25" higher up.
Cheers,
-Smokey
He suggested that you can use the spacer ring as Snoopdan suggested above as one option. Although Steve said that he would choose a different route which would be to cut a hole in the bottom of the box and replace it with a cap to add some depth. Apparently the C5's storage area is a little deeper in the middle and he suggested that you should be able to get the minimum 3/4 between the pole vent and the bottom of the box using the cap and still be able to mount the box flush at the top.
Granted, this is for the W6 and not the W7. I don't know how much extra space is really down there so I don't know how much room you have to play with in the storage area.
Something else to consider is that, as I understand it, the W7 is so heavy that you need 1" thick MDF to mount it. The standard 3/4" MDF that is used (including subthump boxes) will not be strong enough. Again, this is just what I understand from folks who use this sub, and not personal experience. So, a) you will need a custom box made as the production boxes are not 1" thick at the top) and b) this will add a little more starting clearance since the sub will actually be .25" higher up.
Cheers,
-Smokey
#11
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This is what I was thinking,something similar:
Not concerned about having it sit flush,but don't just want a triangle box sitting back there.
Not concerned about having it sit flush,but don't just want a triangle box sitting back there.
#14
Burning Brakes
now your talking, that is a sweet box. I am too looking to put something in my Z06. I had thought about getting two 10w6 and mounting them inverted into a partion between the cab and the trunk. So far its just an idea.
#15
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Originally Posted by snoopdan
You could still do it, with a bit of engineering. You could easily order a subthump box with the top unattached. Mount it under the top plate of the enclosure. So whats complicated about that?
Its still just a speaker.
Its still just a speaker.
#16
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Originally Posted by SmokeyTirez
I emailed Steve at subthump.com about a similar issue for the 10w6. The 10w6 is about .1" less deep than the W7, but....
He suggested that you can use the spacer ring as Snoopdan suggested above as one option. Although Steve said that he would choose a different route which would be to cut a hole in the bottom of the box and replace it with a cap to add some depth. Apparently the C5's storage area is a little deeper in the middle and he suggested that you should be able to get the minimum 3/4 between the pole vent and the bottom of the box using the cap and still be able to mount the box flush at the top.
Granted, this is for the W6 and not the W7. I don't know how much extra space is really down there so I don't know how much room you have to play with in the storage area.
Something else to consider is that, as I understand it, the W7 is so heavy that you need 1" thick MDF to mount it. The standard 3/4" MDF that is used (including subthump boxes) will not be strong enough. Again, this is just what I understand from folks who use this sub, and not personal experience. So, a) you will need a custom box made as the production boxes are not 1" thick at the top) and b) this will add a little more starting clearance since the sub will actually be .25" higher up.
Cheers,
-Smokey
He suggested that you can use the spacer ring as Snoopdan suggested above as one option. Although Steve said that he would choose a different route which would be to cut a hole in the bottom of the box and replace it with a cap to add some depth. Apparently the C5's storage area is a little deeper in the middle and he suggested that you should be able to get the minimum 3/4 between the pole vent and the bottom of the box using the cap and still be able to mount the box flush at the top.
Granted, this is for the W6 and not the W7. I don't know how much extra space is really down there so I don't know how much room you have to play with in the storage area.
Something else to consider is that, as I understand it, the W7 is so heavy that you need 1" thick MDF to mount it. The standard 3/4" MDF that is used (including subthump boxes) will not be strong enough. Again, this is just what I understand from folks who use this sub, and not personal experience. So, a) you will need a custom box made as the production boxes are not 1" thick at the top) and b) this will add a little more starting clearance since the sub will actually be .25" higher up.
Cheers,
-Smokey
the 10W7 is not that heavy that it requires 1" MDF...whoever first heard this probably heard it from JL as a marketing technique to show how much bigger and better it is....the 10W7 weighs 30 lbs, each one of my DD3510s weighs 25 lbs... and I am using 3/4" just fine....i have also used a DD9515 (~50 lbs) in many different boxes all with 3/4" MDF and no problems at all and some with very little bracing and never had a single problem...I would go the route of the W7 if you can get the airspace it needs (JL recomends 1.25 but winISD came up with 1.998 for a QTC of 0.704)
#17
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Originally Posted by Slammed Vette
This is the stuff I'm thinking about getting:
JL Audio 10W7 $429.00
Phoenix Gold Ti600.2 $718.00 for 2 amps
Alpine CDA-9835 $439.00
Focal 165W3 $949.00
Sub-Total: $2,535.00
or
JL Audio 10W7 $429.00
Phoenix Gold Ti600.2 $718.00 for 2 amps
Alpine CDA-9835 $439.00
DynAudio System 360 $819.00
Sub-Total: $2,405.00
+Dynamat ,wiring kits,box,andhead unit mount
JL Audio 10W7 $429.00
Phoenix Gold Ti600.2 $718.00 for 2 amps
Alpine CDA-9835 $439.00
Focal 165W3 $949.00
Sub-Total: $2,535.00
or
JL Audio 10W7 $429.00
Phoenix Gold Ti600.2 $718.00 for 2 amps
Alpine CDA-9835 $439.00
DynAudio System 360 $819.00
Sub-Total: $2,405.00
+Dynamat ,wiring kits,box,andhead unit mount
you will need to hear the 2 different componets and see which ones you like better as they both have fairly different sounds...with the Focals being brighter and somewhat more aggressive and the Dyns being more neutral...it all depends on which sound YOU like better
#18
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Going to order the head unit,sub and 2 amps tomorrow when I get home from work.I think i'm leaning towards the Focals.
#19
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Think I'm going to do something like this ,but glassed!!! This is off SPDSKILZ site.
Last edited by Slammed Vette; 01-24-2005 at 06:53 PM.
#20
Burning Brakes
I was tempted to glass mine, however, for the price they were asking I decided against it. In the future I may glass it, but for now I am saving up for cam/heads
Carleton
Carleton