those of you who have added an aftermarket sub and amp to the bose stereo, where did you ground your amp to? where have you wired your power cable from the amp to (the fusebox or actual battery?).
also, where do you have your remote wire hooked into?
ive been having problems with mine, and I would love to know where you guys (who have been successful) have wired amps/subs.
red
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Torch Red 97 Coupe, 18" ZO6 rims, Borla Quadtip Stingers, Blackwing, Window Tint (26 & 16%), Hood Seal, ZO6 intake screens, 1200 watt amp/sub
1999 Cadillac STS as my new beater. 300hp Northstar. No mods...yet
Location: HOW FAST WAS I GOING OFFICER? Los Angeles Hating GM Dealership Service Dept.'s Since Sept. 2004
If you connect to the B+ post on the fuse box (where you had it before) ... you should be fine. You can connect it directly to the battery, but I would strongly suggest adding a fuse.
If you have a stock headunit:
-The remote wire should be connected to a wire next to the orange wire of your HU. This wire should be green (most likely) or it may be gray.
If aftermarket HU:
-It should be connected to the remote out wire of the HU.
My ground is in the hump behind the driver seat. **Be careful if you decide to mount it there. Make sure you don't drill into anything vital if you go this route.
*** EDIT ***
Found a pic for you. Look on the left side near the left/rear speaker. The thick black wire ...
Hope this helps. Keep us posted.
Dave Q.
Last edited by MyVetteDream; 12-31-2004 at 05:24 PM.
My ground is in the hump behind the driver seat. **Be careful if you decide to mount it there. Make sure you don't drill into anything vital if you go this route.
*** EDIT ***
Found a pic for you. Look on the left side near the left/rear speaker. The thick black wire ...
Hope this helps.
Dave Q.
fiberglassfan suggested the reason for my shorting out and car dying was due to hooking the ground wire into the frame. The voltage spikes caused by the amp interfere with the computers digital signals and the power system for the car. I thought this was the reason...
have you have any problems with the cars electrical system by hooking it into your frame?
red
__________________
Torch Red 97 Coupe, 18" ZO6 rims, Borla Quadtip Stingers, Blackwing, Window Tint (26 & 16%), Hood Seal, ZO6 intake screens, 1200 watt amp/sub
1999 Cadillac STS as my new beater. 300hp Northstar. No mods...yet
Location: HOW FAST WAS I GOING OFFICER? Los Angeles Hating GM Dealership Service Dept.'s Since Sept. 2004
Quote:
Originally Posted by red97vette
fiberglassfan suggested the reason for my shorting out and car dying was due to hooking the ground wire into the frame. The voltage spikes caused by the amp interfere with the computers digital signals and the power system for the car. I thought this was the reason...
have you have any problems hooking it into your frame?
red
No. My strobes' ground is hooked into the frame in the rear. No issues.
im just concerned about hooking the ground to the frame, i had it hooked into the pass seat bolt before.
this is from FiberGlassFan:
"The resistance of the frame will cause eddy currents to flow, and generate voltage noise spikes at each leading and trailing edge of the current waveform. This noise is in close proximity to the computer that runs the car, and can easily intermodulate with the digital signals in and out of the computer and perhaps event into the power supply of the computer too, though less likely. If you run a very heavy ground wire all the way directly from the amp to the (-) of the battery, and avoid any connection through the chassis, it is likely you will not suffer this problem again."
im just concerned about hooking the ground to the frame, i had it hooked into the pass seat bolt before.
this is from FiberGlassFan:
"The resistance of the frame will cause eddy currents to flow, and generate voltage noise spikes at each leading and trailing edge of the current waveform. This noise is in close proximity to the computer that runs the car, and can easily intermodulate with the digital signals in and out of the computer and perhaps event into the power supply of the computer too, though less likely. If you run a very heavy ground wire all the way directly from the amp to the (-) of the battery, and avoid any connection through the chassis, it is likely you will not suffer this problem again."
red
WTF??? There are ground directly to your frame ALL over the car on EVERY car made. Running the ground directly to the battery is going to cause you to pay dbl for wire...extra wire you do not need... and still be connected to the chasis. The battery is grounded to the chasis...if you hook a ground to the battery it is now also connected to the chasis. I have been in the professional car audio business for 16 years. I have NEVER ran a ground wire to the battery for an amplifier. The only people I know that do are DIY guys. For some reason that method has found it's way through the internet like wild fire. There is no need to do that.
How about you post up what problems you have and lets start from there on fixing them.
Also ANY power running through the car no matter where it is connected should have a dedicated fuse. ESPECIALLY anything that connects directly to the battery and runs to the rear of the car. That fuse does not protect your electronics it protects the car. Incase that power wire is shorted to ground the fuse will blow. If that fues is not there the power wire used for amplifiers is capable of handling enough current to set the car on fire.
im just concerned about hooking the ground to the frame, i had it hooked into the pass seat bolt before.
this is from FiberGlassFan:
"The resistance of the frame will cause eddy currents to flow, and generate voltage noise spikes at each leading and trailing edge of the current waveform. This noise is in close proximity to the computer that runs the car, and can easily intermodulate with the digital signals in and out of the computer and perhaps event into the power supply of the computer too, though less likely. If you run a very heavy ground wire all the way directly from the amp to the (-) of the battery, and avoid any connection through the chassis, it is likely you will not suffer this problem again."
red
I'm with EatRice on this.
Sounds like something from the weather channel . Every other electronics in your car including your head unit is grounded to the frame somewhere.
If you are running a very high amp stereo or something simular you may need to increase the ground wire size of the neg. on the battery. When I put comp. systems in my cars years back I ran into a simular issue and had to increase the neg wire size off the battery. This is not uncommon for the newer cars. They seem to put a fairly small gauge or a couple small guage wires off the battery. It is barely enough to run the car let alone any aftermarket stuff.
im just concerned about hooking the ground to the frame, i had it hooked into the pass seat bolt before.
this is from FiberGlassFan:
"The resistance of the frame will cause eddy currents to flow, and generate voltage noise spikes at each leading and trailing edge of the current waveform. This noise is in close proximity to the computer that runs the car, and can easily intermodulate with the digital signals in and out of the computer and perhaps event into the power supply of the computer too, though less likely. If you run a very heavy ground wire all the way directly from the amp to the (-) of the battery, and avoid any connection through the chassis, it is likely you will not suffer this problem again."
red
Sounds like BS to me....i've been installing car audio/video components for years and never heard of this...even on high end systems.
If you are running a very high amp stereo or something simular you may need to increase the ground wire size of the neg. on the battery. When I put comp. systems in my cars years back I ran into a simular issue and had to increase the neg wire size off the battery. This is not uncommon for the newer cars. They seem to put a fairly small gauge or a couple small guage wires off the battery. It is barely enough to run the car let alone any aftermarket stuff.
Eric
That is correct. Current flows in a circle through the battery. If you use a 0ga ground for your amp but the battery is only grounded with a 8ga wire your weak link is the 8ga. I upgrade all my factory leads when doing a high end system and on a more budget system I upgrade the factory ground.
here is a pic of the ground connection for the battery. Could this be the reason for not enough ground?
red
You should upgrade that. You can either remove the factory grounds and replace them entirely or you can just add another wire to the battery. Adding anther wire works just fine is easy and cheap. Swapping out the factory leads will give you a better more factory apperance but will cost more and take ALOT more time. Either way upgrade the ground to the frame.
before i attempt (if im bold enough) to hook up the stereo again, i am defidently going to add another wire (probably the 8 gague) to the battery. Would just going with another eyelet connection to the battery and another eyelet to the frame be sufficient?
i grounded my directly to the frame in the rear
i drilled a hole in bottom of the small compartment closest to the center
and connected it where the rear exhaust hanger bolts through the frame
works fine
Corvette Store
calling all stereo experts...
. Every other electronics in your car including your head unit is grounded to the frame somewhere. 
