I'm replacing my Bose for all aftermarket. I have a Sony M8805X head, Infinity 6000 components and a Carver amp. I'm rounding up 2 8" subs for the back to complete the system.
My idea is to power the Infinity 6.5 drivers from the rear channel and the tweeters from the front channel. I'm thinking this would give me more volume and more control of the soundstage. The Carver amp would soley supply the 2 subs.
Any Thoughts
IMHO, I wouldn't let the HU do the heavy lifting of powering your midrange speakers. The configuration you describe will be bass-heavy, and will have the unusual distinction of the fader (front to rear) controlling your mid/treble mix. Most likely, to match the volume of your bass drivers, you'll drive the mid and tweeter into distortion or clipping, especially if you like it loud.
In other words, buy another amp, or, if the Carver is a four-channel, run the subs off one channel and the Infinity's off the other.
Thanks for the reply. I'm not looking for mind blowing loudness. The deck is able to control the sub out volume so my thinking is I will be able to fine tune the whole setup this way. By allowing each front component to get their own channel, wouldn't that reduce the chance of clipping at the desired volume ?
The Carver amp is only 4X60, not enough for all the speakers. I going to bridge it to get 120 to each sub. The deck is 4X52 max.
Speaking from experience or lack there of, I would also highly recomend that you rethink powering the mids from the HU. I blew my first pair like that in about a day and a half.
In the factory dash location for the tweeters. I'm thinking that the deck has enough power and volume that I will ever use. But who knows, things change. The deck has 3 sets of 4 volt preouts so expansion later is available. :cheers
Carver car amps, I haven't seen those forever.
You can do what you are decribing, but.....you must use passive crossovers on the mids and tweets. If you don't prevent the bass frequencies from those speakers, you will distort and blow the mid and tweets.
Carver car amps, I haven't seen those forever.
You can do what you are decribing, but.....you must use passive crossovers on the mids and tweets. If you don't prevent the bass frequencies from those speakers, you will distort and blow the mid and tweets.
I think my amp dates me Still works though
I have the crossovers that come with the infinitys plus a set of alpine crossovers. My thought was to use one crossover each as you described. The deck also has built in crossovers. I might be able to get away without using the external crossovers. Not sure. Any thoughts on that one.
Thanks
go for it. Just be sure to wire it up correctly. Those are the type of crossovers I was talking about, the one's that come with speakers are called passive crossovers.
I believe you on the Carver, they were expensive but built well.
go for it. Just be sure to wire it up correctly. Those are the type of crossovers I was talking about, the one's that come with speakers are called passive crossovers.
I believe you on the Carver, they were expensive but built well.
Another question. The woofer output on both sets of my crossovers, are they set for mid bass, all bass or what ?
Well i did a little research on crossovers and read that active is better than passive. My head unit has active crossovers so shouldn't i be using them rather than the passive ones i have ?
dude, your getting confused what does what with a crossover.
The crossovers for the mid/highs have general low pass allowance for fequencies around 150 hz on down.
Head units RARELY have any outputs as a low pass crossover. and the ones that do are ONLY for subwoofers.
Does this help any? Or should I break it down more?
snoopdan
My manual for my deck shows it has a high pass filter -to select the cut-off frequency to "78Hz," "125Hz"or off and a low pass filter -to select the cut-off frequency to "78Hz," "125Hz"or off .
Is a filter not a crossover ?
What can i do with this feature. Do i still need my passive crossovers ?
Well, you deck is really nifty, I'll say that. You can really do both, use the passives and the active. Is your choice. Both sort of have benefits. The first benefit for using the passives, is that you will always have a regulated signal going to the speakers that is "solid state", by meaning, no matter what power source you ever choose to power the mid/highs, it will always be filtered to the approiate speaker. The downside to this, is a slight loss in total power available to the speakers. Not much really. But by using only the deck's high pass outputs to an amplifier without inline crossovers, you have complete direct control of all fequencies distributed to your mid/highs. However, you will STILL need a inline passive crossover to any tweeters you plan to hook up. You dont want the chance of accidently feeding those guys some fequencies that it cannot handle, and end up cooking them.
Your deck gives you alot of flexability to your install, and alot of different avenues for wiring and signal distrubution. Maybe too many for somone that hasnt done alot of high end, multi amplifier installs. I try to shy away from stuff that gets too complicated, most of the time.. Not for the fact that I cant deal with it, just that its real easy to over complicate your install real fast, and add lots of amplifiers and wiring that you wont appreciate or notice the difference if it wasnt there. Ive gone the multi amp multi crossover, speaker specific bandpass seperation done in 4 way systems....Just kinda overkill for a soundstage in a car thats hard to image decently in the first place, if you plan to keep stock speaker locations.
But thats just me, keeping the install simple.
If I owned a fullsize extended cab truck, or minivan, Id go thru the effort...In a vette, your a little pressed for space.
Well i did a little research on crossovers and read that active is better than passive. My head unit has active crossovers so shouldn't i be using them rather than the passive ones i have ?
That is a true statement, but....you should still use the passive ones for sure. The HU active crossover will protect the mids but not the tweets. Also the passives might have a limit on the upper freqs of the mids that might help prevent some abnormal freq spikes above the usable range of the mid.
You can mess with the HU active crossovers once you have it all hook-up and see what YOU think sounds best.
snoopdan. Hi-pass in HU is becoming more available, 3 of the 4 HU I currently use have them, even my cheaper DEH-P77 in my truck has them and I use them too.
snoopdan. Hi-pass in HU is becoming more available, 3 of the 4 HU I currently use have them, even my cheaper DEH-P77 in my truck has them and I use them too.
I know, I know...its just not whats floating out there on off shelf units and ebay at the moment - which is USUALLY where people on this forum seem to get stuff.
I usually try to keep a system simple. A head unit for source audio, and electronics furthor down signal line for fequency managment. Im old skool I guess
Corvette Store
Your Thoughts On This Idea Please
Still works though 
