C5 Stereo Install Lessons Learned (long) (all text)
04-14-2004, 09:51 PM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
C5 Stereo Install Lessons Learned (long) (all text)
No pics posted yet, but they will come. This post is not worthless without pics, so don't go there...:>)
UPDATE: Pics post is at http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=807383
I have a new appreciation for those of you who have installed a new stereo system. I had the luxury of taking my car out of service for a week while my wife was out of town - here are some "lessons learned":
My System: Alpine CDA-9827 MP3 HU
CDT CL-61a 6.5" 2-way Component Fronts
Image Dynamics 12" 4-ohm DVC Sub (wired parallel to 2-ohms)
US Acoustics USB-2100 2-channel Amp
US Acoustics USB-600D Sub Amp
S-2 Sub Box from mike76002
1. Removals: To get the head unit out, console off, and door panels off I used a Corvette forum tech tip "C5 Stock Stereo Removal", a "how to install a Hurst shifter" tip and a "how to install new door handle pulls" tip, respectively. There are a few secrets and these documents helped a TON.
2. Carpet: To get the carpet out, start at the rear and work forward. The [coupe] hatch holders on the rear shelf turn 90 degrees and come off. There is a retainer ring around the hatch holder that also needs to be removed (pry up carefully). If you have a cargo net, the net clips need to be unscrewed from the posts (studs). Most of it just pulls out. I had the console off - the passenger side pulled out easily, but there is a plastic box under the accelerator pedal that needs to come out (use a socket on an extension) and a plastic box by the dead pedal that needs to be loosened (just remove the nut and it will loosen enough). Don't worry, the carpet goes back in without too much trouble, just start at the front and work to the back.
3. Battery Power Cable: Sneak the cable (I did a 4 gauge amp and 12 gauge HU wire) around behind the 2" rubber grommet behind the battery...pretty easy. Buy some Battery Side Terminal Extensions to attach your wires to the battery. I bought two, so I can upgrade the ground and power wires (see "How to Upgrade the Big 3 Wires" in tools\tech tips\C5). The existing side terminal metal posts can be pried out of their rubber housings and the new extensions inserted in their place.
4. Head Unit: I installed an Alpine HU from Crutchfield. I tried to pick up "switched power" and "illumination" from the factory harness. Neither one worked. I blew off the illumination thing but the switched power must be present for the radio to come on (I was pretty perturbed until I figured this out). You will need to pick up switched (ignition on) power from the passenger floorboard harness or a fuse panel. My HU is 6-7/8" deep and it barely fit. Actually it didn't fit (more perturbation), but then I figured out that I had forgotten to add the spacer ring to the Crutchfield supplied mount. You have to cut out the inner pieces (used for a shaft-mount radio) and add this spacer on the outside (front) of the mount (read the directions, DOH) which then pulls the unit forward so it can fit. It is still a tight fit...and you must bend the stock radio rear support toward the front of the car. UPDATE: this still was not sufficient. Radio was too deep, so I added some spacers behind the black spacer rings to move the radio out another 1/8"...it now works fine (it was binding before and would quit playing!?!?!)
5. Door Speakers: Running the wires is easy once you know about the weather shield plug (about 3" square) that aligns with the accordion on the door. It is accessible on the driver's side, but you must pull down the dash close-out panel on the passenger's side (you had to have this off to run the battery power cable anyway).
6. Ground: I ran the ground wire from the HU and from the amp to the outside passenger seat bolt and all is well. I had to enlarge the holes in my ring connectors with a Dremel Tool to get them to fit over the studs.
7. Accessory Input: I bought an Alpine KCA-121B RCA input adapter and some 6' RCA extensions and ran them to my console. I can use this to hook up an external source to my HU (such as a portable MP3 player or, eek-gads, a cassette player). The adapter and cables were only $20 and while I had the car apart...
8. Speaker Wires: I used 14 gauge from Wal-Mart (50ft for $9, oxygen-free copper, etc.).
9. Fuses: HU had a 10 amp near the unit, I added a 20 amp at the battery end of the 12 gauge HU power wire, 100 amp at the battery for the 4 gauge wire and 2x50 at the 4 to 8 gauge fused distribution block (mounted near the right rear wheel well), and the amps have their own. There are several kinds of fuses - if you buy a fuse holder, make sure you get the right type and size fuse for it.
10. Cost: I got all of my stuff, with factory warranties, for a little over $1000. Note that $173 of that was wire, connectors, and other "miscellaneous stuff."
11. Sound Deadening: Dynamat, Brown Bread, Fatmat, Cascade...it was too costly for me, but I did the Frost King mod (about $70 for the entire car) while I was in there with the carpet removed...flame suit is on...
12. Sub Box: Yeah, it would be pretty easy to build one, but I decided not to fool with it...got an S-2 box from mike76002 on the Corvette Forum...thanks Mike !!
13. Growth Provisions: I ran wires to the back of the car from all three RCA outputs of my HU, I added the RCA aux out adapter (see above), and I ran speaker outputs from the HU (long story, but my amps were back ordered and I used the HU amplifier for a while).
14. Crossovers: I stuck my door speaker crossovers under the passenger seat so I can get to them (they have a tweeter adjustment) and so they would not get rattled every time the door closed. Not fastened down, just stuck back there on the floor.
15. Rear Speakers: I had installed Infinity 652i rear speakers to replace the crappy stock speakers. I hooked them up to my HU and they sounded so bad compared to my CDT fronts that I disconnected them.
16. General Installation Issues: Get a large bottle of Advil ready...there is a lot of bending, stooping, crawling, and scooting around on your back involved...but then, I'm nearing 50! I used a towel to kneel on while working on the floors and used a "pickle bucket" to sit on while I worked on the doors.
17. Seats: Mine are electric. There are two connectors on the driver's seat and one on the passenger seat. The connectors are locked together with barbs like most of the other connectors on the car. They will come apart without breaking, just be careful, study the connector carefully, and use a small screwdriver to pry on the barb holders. They are also attached to the seat with a sliding connector that is very firmly attached. I slid the connector off of the seat part. The seats unbolt easily (I did the rear bolts first, then slid the seat back to do the fronts) and are not too heavy, but cover the door sills with towels to keep from scratching them. The front bolts are under some plastic covers that snap off with some gentle persuasion (they are a bit fragile).
18. Wires: Maybe I'm paranoid, but I marked all of the wire ends with labels (right front speaker, etc.) and I used a continuity checker to verify all of the wires after crimping (or soldering) and taping them. Pretty soon you have a lot of wires lying all over the place. The continuity checker was useful when the radio wouldn't power up and I used it to figure out that the ignition power was not hot (explained above). A spare stiff wire is handy to fish wires up through the back of the dash and into the doors through the accordion tubes.
19. Loose Parts and Tools: I separately bagged groups of nuts, fasteners, trim, etc. for each area - keeping each subassembly together helps get it back together. DO NOT SET DOWN ANY TOOLS OR PARTS UNDER THE HOOD - you will just knock them off and they will fall under the battery or you may leave them under there!!! Just put a snack tray or card table or something next to you and set tools down on it. I also tried to periodically pick up all the loose tools lying around and I kept them in a cardboard box for re-use (yes, I was too lazy to roll my toolbox out to the car).
20. Amp Mounting: I mounted my two amps on the back wall between the hatch latches (I have a coupe). I tried to epoxy wood strips to the back wall, but the surface is curved and it would not stick...I gave up and drove three screws through each 2" x 23" 1/2" MDF board...the thought of the amps landing in the front seat after a wreck did not appeal to me and the holes will be forever behind the carpet...
I just got my amps in, and Mike76002 finished my sub box this week, so stay tuned and I will update this post with other info. and pictures...
Let me just finally say that I could not have done this without the extensive help I got from this forum...THANKS!!!
(I'm working on editing the text...the forum does not like special characters pasted in from Word...apologize for typos if you found any...)
[Modified by MSIP, 6:50 PM 4/26/2004]
UPDATE: Pics post is at http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=807383
I have a new appreciation for those of you who have installed a new stereo system. I had the luxury of taking my car out of service for a week while my wife was out of town - here are some "lessons learned":
My System: Alpine CDA-9827 MP3 HU
CDT CL-61a 6.5" 2-way Component Fronts
Image Dynamics 12" 4-ohm DVC Sub (wired parallel to 2-ohms)
US Acoustics USB-2100 2-channel Amp
US Acoustics USB-600D Sub Amp
S-2 Sub Box from mike76002
1. Removals: To get the head unit out, console off, and door panels off I used a Corvette forum tech tip "C5 Stock Stereo Removal", a "how to install a Hurst shifter" tip and a "how to install new door handle pulls" tip, respectively. There are a few secrets and these documents helped a TON.
2. Carpet: To get the carpet out, start at the rear and work forward. The [coupe] hatch holders on the rear shelf turn 90 degrees and come off. There is a retainer ring around the hatch holder that also needs to be removed (pry up carefully). If you have a cargo net, the net clips need to be unscrewed from the posts (studs). Most of it just pulls out. I had the console off - the passenger side pulled out easily, but there is a plastic box under the accelerator pedal that needs to come out (use a socket on an extension) and a plastic box by the dead pedal that needs to be loosened (just remove the nut and it will loosen enough). Don't worry, the carpet goes back in without too much trouble, just start at the front and work to the back.
3. Battery Power Cable: Sneak the cable (I did a 4 gauge amp and 12 gauge HU wire) around behind the 2" rubber grommet behind the battery...pretty easy. Buy some Battery Side Terminal Extensions to attach your wires to the battery. I bought two, so I can upgrade the ground and power wires (see "How to Upgrade the Big 3 Wires" in tools\tech tips\C5). The existing side terminal metal posts can be pried out of their rubber housings and the new extensions inserted in their place.
4. Head Unit: I installed an Alpine HU from Crutchfield. I tried to pick up "switched power" and "illumination" from the factory harness. Neither one worked. I blew off the illumination thing but the switched power must be present for the radio to come on (I was pretty perturbed until I figured this out). You will need to pick up switched (ignition on) power from the passenger floorboard harness or a fuse panel. My HU is 6-7/8" deep and it barely fit. Actually it didn't fit (more perturbation), but then I figured out that I had forgotten to add the spacer ring to the Crutchfield supplied mount. You have to cut out the inner pieces (used for a shaft-mount radio) and add this spacer on the outside (front) of the mount (read the directions, DOH) which then pulls the unit forward so it can fit. It is still a tight fit...and you must bend the stock radio rear support toward the front of the car. UPDATE: this still was not sufficient. Radio was too deep, so I added some spacers behind the black spacer rings to move the radio out another 1/8"...it now works fine (it was binding before and would quit playing!?!?!)
5. Door Speakers: Running the wires is easy once you know about the weather shield plug (about 3" square) that aligns with the accordion on the door. It is accessible on the driver's side, but you must pull down the dash close-out panel on the passenger's side (you had to have this off to run the battery power cable anyway).
6. Ground: I ran the ground wire from the HU and from the amp to the outside passenger seat bolt and all is well. I had to enlarge the holes in my ring connectors with a Dremel Tool to get them to fit over the studs.
7. Accessory Input: I bought an Alpine KCA-121B RCA input adapter and some 6' RCA extensions and ran them to my console. I can use this to hook up an external source to my HU (such as a portable MP3 player or, eek-gads, a cassette player). The adapter and cables were only $20 and while I had the car apart...
8. Speaker Wires: I used 14 gauge from Wal-Mart (50ft for $9, oxygen-free copper, etc.).
9. Fuses: HU had a 10 amp near the unit, I added a 20 amp at the battery end of the 12 gauge HU power wire, 100 amp at the battery for the 4 gauge wire and 2x50 at the 4 to 8 gauge fused distribution block (mounted near the right rear wheel well), and the amps have their own. There are several kinds of fuses - if you buy a fuse holder, make sure you get the right type and size fuse for it.
10. Cost: I got all of my stuff, with factory warranties, for a little over $1000. Note that $173 of that was wire, connectors, and other "miscellaneous stuff."
11. Sound Deadening: Dynamat, Brown Bread, Fatmat, Cascade...it was too costly for me, but I did the Frost King mod (about $70 for the entire car) while I was in there with the carpet removed...flame suit is on...
12. Sub Box: Yeah, it would be pretty easy to build one, but I decided not to fool with it...got an S-2 box from mike76002 on the Corvette Forum...thanks Mike !!
13. Growth Provisions: I ran wires to the back of the car from all three RCA outputs of my HU, I added the RCA aux out adapter (see above), and I ran speaker outputs from the HU (long story, but my amps were back ordered and I used the HU amplifier for a while).
14. Crossovers: I stuck my door speaker crossovers under the passenger seat so I can get to them (they have a tweeter adjustment) and so they would not get rattled every time the door closed. Not fastened down, just stuck back there on the floor.
15. Rear Speakers: I had installed Infinity 652i rear speakers to replace the crappy stock speakers. I hooked them up to my HU and they sounded so bad compared to my CDT fronts that I disconnected them.
16. General Installation Issues: Get a large bottle of Advil ready...there is a lot of bending, stooping, crawling, and scooting around on your back involved...but then, I'm nearing 50! I used a towel to kneel on while working on the floors and used a "pickle bucket" to sit on while I worked on the doors.
17. Seats: Mine are electric. There are two connectors on the driver's seat and one on the passenger seat. The connectors are locked together with barbs like most of the other connectors on the car. They will come apart without breaking, just be careful, study the connector carefully, and use a small screwdriver to pry on the barb holders. They are also attached to the seat with a sliding connector that is very firmly attached. I slid the connector off of the seat part. The seats unbolt easily (I did the rear bolts first, then slid the seat back to do the fronts) and are not too heavy, but cover the door sills with towels to keep from scratching them. The front bolts are under some plastic covers that snap off with some gentle persuasion (they are a bit fragile).
18. Wires: Maybe I'm paranoid, but I marked all of the wire ends with labels (right front speaker, etc.) and I used a continuity checker to verify all of the wires after crimping (or soldering) and taping them. Pretty soon you have a lot of wires lying all over the place. The continuity checker was useful when the radio wouldn't power up and I used it to figure out that the ignition power was not hot (explained above). A spare stiff wire is handy to fish wires up through the back of the dash and into the doors through the accordion tubes.
19. Loose Parts and Tools: I separately bagged groups of nuts, fasteners, trim, etc. for each area - keeping each subassembly together helps get it back together. DO NOT SET DOWN ANY TOOLS OR PARTS UNDER THE HOOD - you will just knock them off and they will fall under the battery or you may leave them under there!!! Just put a snack tray or card table or something next to you and set tools down on it. I also tried to periodically pick up all the loose tools lying around and I kept them in a cardboard box for re-use (yes, I was too lazy to roll my toolbox out to the car).
20. Amp Mounting: I mounted my two amps on the back wall between the hatch latches (I have a coupe). I tried to epoxy wood strips to the back wall, but the surface is curved and it would not stick...I gave up and drove three screws through each 2" x 23" 1/2" MDF board...the thought of the amps landing in the front seat after a wreck did not appeal to me and the holes will be forever behind the carpet...
I just got my amps in, and Mike76002 finished my sub box this week, so stay tuned and I will update this post with other info. and pictures...
Let me just finally say that I could not have done this without the extensive help I got from this forum...THANKS!!!
(I'm working on editing the text...the forum does not like special characters pasted in from Word...apologize for typos if you found any...)
[Modified by MSIP, 6:50 PM 4/26/2004]
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AtkRWC (05-10-2019)
04-15-2004, 12:26 AM
#2
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Re: C5 Stereo Install Lessons Learned (MSIP)
This is a great post. Thank you for writing it. I think it should go into the tech tips...
HOWEVER, I will chime in on some:
I can help you out if you want with door panel/ rear speaker removal. Im sure theres write ups already though.
Illumination- I forgot what color (yellow or orange) but take this off the HVAC control right below.
Ground, instead of running a ground that far, I just used one of the 10 mm bolts to the left of the radio that is grounded to the metal that holds the radio/hvac in place under the key. its a good ground point.
The seat bolts also work, and theres ground points on the "b" pillars as well. As for the rear, some people have punched through the floor and grounded the amps to the muffler bolts. Theres also ground points near the rear wheel wells as well on the frame.
20. Amp Mounting: I mounted my two amps on the back wall between the hatch latches (I have a coupe). I tried to epoxy wood strips to the back wall, but the surface is curved and it would not stick...I gave up and drove three screws through each 2" x 23" 1/2" MDF board...e thought of the amps landing in the front seat after a wreck did not appeal to me and the holes will be forever behind the carpet...
What I did was mount my amps behind my seats. I used 1/2" sheet metal screws and screwed a 1/4" sheet of plywood into the ridges back there. Then I mounted the amps to that... however I'm short so the loss in leg room was no big deal for me. The holes are there forever, but with as sectioned off as the c5's carpet is, finding a replacment shouldnt be hard.
[Modified by eRiCdWoNg, 12:28 AM 4/15/2004]
HOWEVER, I will chime in on some:
1. Removals: To get the head unit out, console off, and door panels off I used a Corvette forum tech tip "C5 Stock Stereo Removal", a "how to install a Hurst shifter" tip and a "how to install new door handle pulls" tip, respectively. There are a few secrets and these documents helped a TON.
4. Head Unit: I installed an Alpine HU from Crutchfield. I tried to pick up "switched power" and "illumination" from the factory harness. Neither one worked. I blew off the illumination thing but the switched power must be present for the radio to come on (I was pretty perturbed until I figured this out). You will need to pick up switched (ignition on) power from the passenger floorboard harness or a fuse panel. My HU is 6-7/8" deep and it barely fit. Actually it didn't fit (more perturbation), but then I figured out that I had forgotten to add the spacer ring to the Crutchfield supplied mount. You have to cut out the inner pieces (used for a shaft-mount radio) and add this spacer on the outside (front) of the mount (read the directions, DOH) which then pulls the unit forward so it can fit. It is still a tight fit...and you must bend the stock radio rear support toward the front of the car. Update: this still was not sufficient. Radio was too deep, so I added some spacers behind the black spacer rings to move the radio out another 1/8"...it now works fine (it was binding before and would quit playing!?!?!)
6. Ground: I ran the ground wire from the HU and from the amp to the outside passenger seat bolt and all is well.
Ground, instead of running a ground that far, I just used one of the 10 mm bolts to the left of the radio that is grounded to the metal that holds the radio/hvac in place under the key. its a good ground point.
The seat bolts also work, and theres ground points on the "b" pillars as well. As for the rear, some people have punched through the floor and grounded the amps to the muffler bolts. Theres also ground points near the rear wheel wells as well on the frame.
20. Amp Mounting: I mounted my two amps on the back wall between the hatch latches (I have a coupe). I tried to epoxy wood strips to the back wall, but the surface is curved and it would not stick...I gave up and drove three screws through each 2" x 23" 1/2" MDF board...e thought of the amps landing in the front seat after a wreck did not appeal to me and the holes will be forever behind the carpet...
[Modified by eRiCdWoNg, 12:28 AM 4/15/2004]
04-15-2004, 10:21 AM
#3
Racer
Thread Starter
Re: C5 Stereo Install Lessons Learned (eRiCdWoNg)
Thanks for the reply. Comments...
Good idea. Illumination has not been a problem yet, but if I decide I need to turn it down (it defaults to full bright) I will go in and tap into the HVAC line.
I wanted the HU and amps grounded to the same place. The seat bolt was between the two, and I had to run wires to behind the seat anyway for the crossovers. It worked for me...
Directly behind the seats was not an option...I'm 6' 4". A nice amp shelf above the gas tanks was not an option because that's where the golf clubs go when the hatch roof is stored 
Illumination- I forgot what color (yellow or orange) but take this off the HVAC control right below.
Ground, instead of running a ground that far, I just used one of the 10 mm bolts to the left of the radio that is grounded to the metal that holds the radio/hvac in place under the key. its a good ground point.
The seat bolts also work, and theres ground points on the "b" pillars as well. As for the rear, some people have punched through the floor and grounded the amps to the muffler bolts. Theres also ground points near the rear wheel wells as well on the frame.
The seat bolts also work, and theres ground points on the "b" pillars as well. As for the rear, some people have punched through the floor and grounded the amps to the muffler bolts. Theres also ground points near the rear wheel wells as well on the frame.
What I did was mount my amps behind my seats. I used 1/2" sheet metal screws and screwed a 1/4" sheet of plywood into the ridges back there. Then I mounted the amps to that... however I'm short so the loss in leg room was no big deal for me. The holes are there forever, but with as sectioned off as the c5's carpet is, finding a replacment shouldnt be hard.
04-15-2004, 02:37 PM
#4
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Jan 2002
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Re: C5 Stereo Install Lessons Learned (MSIP)
Good write up. See if you can get it submitted to the Tech Tips section.
Only thing I'd do different on your install is the ground. The seat bolts work, but are not the best ground. B pillar is better, and more stealthy. You were correct to ground everything to the same place though.
Also, if you have a 2004 C5, there is no accessory wire harness. You will need to get to get switched power from someplace else... Check out this thread: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=789224
Good job.
[Modified by leolufse, 3:06 PM 4/19/2004]
Only thing I'd do different on your install is the ground. The seat bolts work, but are not the best ground. B pillar is better, and more stealthy. You were correct to ground everything to the same place though.
Also, if you have a 2004 C5, there is no accessory wire harness. You will need to get to get switched power from someplace else... Check out this thread: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=789224
Good job.
[Modified by leolufse, 3:06 PM 4/19/2004]
05-06-2004, 11:36 PM
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Re: C5 Stereo Install Lessons Learned (MSIP)
11. Sound Deadening: Dynamat, Brown Bread, Fatmat, Cascade...it was too costly for me, but I did the Frost King mod (about $70 for the entire car) while I was in there with the carpet removed...flame suit is on...
What is the Frost King Mod? how does it compare to the others? Was it difficult to install?
What is the Frost King Mod? how does it compare to the others? Was it difficult to install?
05-07-2004, 09:40 AM
#7
Racer
Thread Starter
Re: C5 Stereo Install Lessons Learned (Stanman)
11. Sound Deadening: Dynamat, Brown Bread, Fatmat, Cascade...it was too costly for me, but I did the Frost King mod (about $70 for the entire car) while I was in there with the carpet removed...flame suit is on...
What is the Frost King Mod? how does it compare to the others? Was it difficult to install?
What is the Frost King Mod? how does it compare to the others? Was it difficult to install?
[Modified by MSIP, 8:41 AM 5/7/2004]
05-07-2004, 09:47 AM
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St. Jude Donor '03-'04
Re: C5 Stereo Install Lessons Learned (MSIP)
Thank you. Bottom line for me.............FIND A GOOD INSTALLER 
05-09-2004, 09:09 AM
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Re: C5 Stereo Install Lessons Learned (eRiCdWoNg)
This is a great post. Thank you for writing it. I think it should go into the tech tips...
Thanks for posting it.
06-10-2004, 06:29 PM
#11
Le Mans Master
Re: C5 Stereo Install Lessons Learned (Greg5)
sub box: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=826589
free shipping until the end of june: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=837777
free shipping until the end of june: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=837777
11-26-2013, 02:10 AM
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Just did a double din conversion with all new wiring..
So I just wanted to chime in. This is a great write up with great advice (especially the part about head aches)! I just wanted to add a couple of pointers I learned along the way:
1.I started by saving a ton and did the double din mod on the bezel myself. It wasn't bad, but be patient. Get the SEM products, they are AMAZING!!
2. I read a ton about pulling wires of this fuse and that, I got my constant hot, illum and switched hot of the ECU plug right below the radio, easy!
3. Getting the brackets out...complete B*TCH! Sawzall, dremel, and drill...easy my *ss!!
4. Made my own box because I didnt want to wait. If I did it again I would order the Double D box and pay the 80 bucks...its worth it!
5. I learned a ton so if you have questions ask away...the most important thing I can tell you is this is not for the faint of heart. You have to go into it totally committed!! Good Luck!!
1.I started by saving a ton and did the double din mod on the bezel myself. It wasn't bad, but be patient. Get the SEM products, they are AMAZING!!
2. I read a ton about pulling wires of this fuse and that, I got my constant hot, illum and switched hot of the ECU plug right below the radio, easy!
3. Getting the brackets out...complete B*TCH! Sawzall, dremel, and drill...easy my *ss!!
4. Made my own box because I didnt want to wait. If I did it again I would order the Double D box and pay the 80 bucks...its worth it!
5. I learned a ton so if you have questions ask away...the most important thing I can tell you is this is not for the faint of heart. You have to go into it totally committed!! Good Luck!!
Last edited by landclan; 11-28-2013 at 12:16 AM.
