Why is that? I don't listen to anything that has output below 15 hz or so, though the green curve is smoother...in car it isn't going to be very smooth anyway with my cars transfer fuction added in. :confused:
Lol...everything sounds peaky in my car no matter how smooth the origional curve is...
Besides...rock/metal/techno isn't exactly demanding upon the entire bass range. The Pirates of the Carribean soundtrack still sounds awesome...as does E.S. Posthumus and Requiem for a Dream. The yellow curve adds a whole lot of kick to the drums/beats.
Both curves are nice...yellow would be more likely the way to go. How would it sound peaky? It has a very nice curve with a gentle slope. If anything the green one would be on the weak side for the average person look for a sub.
That is exactly it...I don't think it sounds peaky at all...it has a very smooth transition from 150-20 hz in a sweep. The green curve when swept from 150-20 hz felt a little weak in the 45-60 hz range.
Both curves are nice...yellow would be more likely the way to go. How would it sound peaky? It has a very nice curve with a gentle slope. If anything the green one would be on the weak side for the average person look for a sub.
Well, I tend to look for SQ over SPL out of a sub - thats why my choice for the flatter curve. The car does enough bad things to frequencies without exaggerating the problem. 'Course if you just want a boomcar this doesnt apply to you.
It isn't a boomcar...I spent 3 days making it not loud outside the car...but I do like to be able to blur my vision when I crank it...so SQL it is for me. If that means I have to deal with an exagerated low end...so be it. :yesnod: :cheers:
Then on the flip side if the car has a drop in the low frequencys...such as the Honda Accord 4 door 1990 body style. You will need to build a box that has a high bass response so equals out inside the vechicle. The information that a computer program provides is only a basis to go by. Ultimately you need an in car measurement.
Then on the flip side if the car has a drop in the low frequencys...such as the Honda Accord 4 door 1990 body style. You will need to build a box that has a high bass response so equals out inside the vechicle. The information that a computer program provides is only a basis to go by. Ultimately you need an in car measurement.
something I don't have or have the money to have done at a shop. :lol:
This is what I know about my car's transfer function(by ear):
I have a pretty big boost around 70 hz, then a dip from 35-60, and then a big bump from 35 on down to 5 hz or so. When I had my subs sealed I could hit 5 hz with ease...with the ported box I can't anymore, but from 15-30 hz is much stronger than the sealed box...and from 45-60 hits much much harder than it ever did before.
That peak seems to smooth out really well...I thought it would sound like crap at first also.
Corvette Store
Response curves...
