Ok welp, I've decided the first thing to do with my baby is a stereo upgrade. I'm the proud owner of a 99 coupe red on black. I've worked with fibgerglass before in making kick panels for my Jeep.
I've fallen in love with 2k1vert's setup. I wish to almost reproduce his subwoofer enclosure. I am curious of a few things. I plan on using an IDQ IDMAX 12" woofer. I've been reading 1.3 cubic feet or even 1.5 cubic feet. I'm assuming that the rear end is large enough for that type of air space. It has been suggested by other forum members to buy 'packing peanuts' and measure out the space in a box and go from there. Anyone wanna save me the time/hassle of that?
Below are some pictures of 2k1vert's install. I hope you don't mind me posting these, if so please email me and they'll be down ASAP.
So in the pictures above, what is that aluminum foil looking stuff? Is that dynamat? Also, how exactly did you lay the plastic in the whole? Is it a layer of dynamat, follow by a layer of plastic, followed by the fibgerglass matt & resin?
The hard part of this install to me seems like getting the fibgerglass out of the hole once it's cured. That stuff has a tendency to stick (don't ask how I know :mad). I stopped by a local shop and ask for some advice and he told me there's some substance you can use (some type of wax) that will help prevent the enclosure from sticking.
Now this picture has me perplexed. How does the fiberglass stick to the board? Is this something that just naturally occurs? How do you work something like this up? Just once the third layer is on drop the MDF board on and pull the edges of the glass around? Can you simple just press the board onto the third layer of glass and let it dry?
Also in this picture, there is something that covered up the nasty fibgerglass around the back of the sub. Is this bondo? What grit sandpaper is acceptable to get a smooth surface? I've used body filler before but never bondo.
Now this has me wondering again. My question above about how to mate the fiberglass to the MDF may answer it. It almost looks like there's 2 layers of wood there??
Behold, one badddd mother sub enclosure.
Things I want to do differently, I'd like to spray the box black and clearcoat it. I don't really want to use carpet. What's the best way to do this with the sub and amps? Bondo the entire piece of wood, and start painting?
I'm also in the market for ideas about where to mount my amps. I have an Arc Audio amp that will push my front speakers and a small MTX 500watt Class D amp for the Sub. The idea is to replace the MTX amp with another Arc Audio amp but that's in the future. I'm looking for places to mount the amps and still retain the two storage compartments on either side of the center tub. I also want room directly behind the seat for my backpack and gym bag. Other than that, as long as my top can still be stored I'm up for anything.
That is alot of questions. I did not do the install in that car so I can not tell you exctaly what procedure was used. I can tell you that whoever did is very good with glass because that stuff was very nicely laid and I can tell you how I do it. From the looks of things the silver is a tape used for AC work. When you want to make a mold of something you have to cover whatever you are molding with something that the fiberglass will not stick to. There are many things that can be used. I use alot of masking tape myself. I think whoever built that box also did that is the blue spots you see in the box.Masking tape does not stick that well to glass so it works well. You can use AC tape or plastic, I have seen many ways I just prefer masking tape. The plastic that you see all around the hatch in that car is just for protection of the car and not to actually form the box. Fiberglass will MESS your car up so use alot of protetive devices when doing the layup. Now as for the wood top. Glass sticks to MDF very well. MDF is porus and the glass sinks right in. So yes on the last coat you can just put the wood on top and it will bond, provided it is touching wet parts. I know this not the answer to all your questions but I hope this helps.
Noelc5
Glad to to see your high interest. I thought in my original post that I gave credit for the Glass Sub-Box to Conquer. I have friends that work with glass, but I know nothing about it. You can visit Conquers web site and I'm sure he would be delighted to know you like his work and would share his experience on how he built it. http://www.conquerweb.com/
I do not care for the ID Max 12 V3 D4 anymore, but like others would recommend you drive it with 1000Watts and not 500.
Good luck & post pics when you finish.
My recent mods are the Homelink Visor mod from a 97 Cherokee off of Ebay, Valentine 1, B&M Ripper shifter and will soon include a Raptor shiftlight.
Thanks for the replies guuys. I did read that post where you gave credit where it was due. I'll be contacting him asap. I am going to be parking the vette for a while since the weather is starting to get bad. I hate to do it but it's just killing me keeping it outside.
I plan to start this project pretty soon. I am going to order the face plate and the speaker mounts from VrumVrum. They looked really high quality and very professional. I really don't want to halfass this install.
I feel comfortable with the fibgerglass mating to the wood. I am very concerned about how to pop that bad boy out of the rear. Hopefully when I get ahold of conquer I'll get the finishing details. I'll let you guys know.
Any suggestions about painting? Any suggestions about places to mount a coupe amps? What about running wire ??
If you tape every spot that the glass is going to touch when it is dry it will pull out. You can use a mold release wax available from fiberglass supply shops or you can use wesson spray on cooking stuff........like pam or use pam. I hope you know what I mean.....I am not a kitchen person. Those also work to help release the mold.
Re: Ok let's talk about fibgerglass... (knewblewkorvette)
It is funny that you say knew.......my ex fiance or as I affectionatly refer to her as my ex slut is named Pam. So I am going to use her as often as possible. :lolg: :rofl: :rofl:
Ok welp, I've decided the first thing to do with my baby is a stereo upgrade. I'm the proud owner of a 99 coupe red on black. I've worked with fibgerglass before in making kick panels for my Jeep.
Congrats!
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I've fallen in love with 2k1vert's setup. I wish to almost reproduce his subwoofer enclosure.
:D ....thanks!
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I am curious of a few things. I plan on using an IDQ IDMAX 12" woofer.
Great choice IMHO! If you like a hard hitting sub and a clean response!
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I've been reading 1.3 cubic feet or even 1.5 cubic feet. I'm assuming that the rear end is large enough for that type of air space. It has been suggested by other forum members to buy 'packing peanuts' and measure out the space in a box and go from there. Anyone wanna save me the time/hassle of that?
1.3 - 1.5 is about right.
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Below are some pictures of 2k1vert's install. I hope you don't mind me posting these, if so please email me and they'll be down ASAP.
So in the pictures above, what is that aluminum foil looking stuff? Is that dynamat? Also, how exactly did you lay the plastic in the whole? Is it a layer of dynamat, follow by a layer of plastic, followed by the fibgerglass matt & resin?
Dont mind at all.... its is foil tape, not dynamat. It is used as a base for the mold. I did not lay plastic in the well. It was completely tape off with foil tape (2 layers) then 2 layers of blue painters tape (same as masking tape). The plastic is outlined on the outside edges and taped down to prevent and accidents on the carpet. I then applied 2-3 layes of fiberglass in the well to create the mold.
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The hard part of this install to me seems like getting the fibgerglass out of the hole once it's cured. That stuff has a tendency to stick (don't ask how I know :mad). I stopped by a local shop and ask for some advice and he told me there's some substance you can use (some type of wax) that will help prevent the enclosure from sticking.
The blue painters masking tape is all you need as a final layer. The mold, once cured, will pop out like magic. you might have a few pieces of tape stuck to it do to the resin leaking through any piece not firmly taped down. Thats why you should use multiple layers.
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Now this picture has me perplexed. How does the fiberglass stick to the board? Is this something that just naturally occurs? How do you work something like this up? Just once the third layer is on drop the MDF board on and pull the edges of the glass around? Can you simple just press the board onto the third layer of glass and let it dry?
Make sure you have your top piece completed first... then when your mold is complete, drop it back into the hole and lay glass from the top surfaces into the mold. Only need to do about 4 inches on each side just to make contact with your top piece. Before the glass cures place your lid on the surface and put some type of weight on it and allow it to cure. Then lift it out, turn it upside down, and seal the edges with Bondo and glass. The glass is like concrete to the wood.
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Also in this picture, there is something that covered up the nasty fibgerglass around the back of the sub. Is this bondo? What grit sandpaper is acceptable to get a smooth surface? I've used body filler before but never bondo.
Not to sure what your refering to but Bondo was used in areas that I felt was weak or needed additional strength. It can be sanded with a med grade paper.
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Now this has me wondering again. My question above about how to mate the fiberglass to the MDF may answer it. It almost looks like there's 2 layers of wood there??
There is not 2 layers of wood... just glass and some Bondo.
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Behold, one badddd mother sub enclosure.
:thumbs:
Contact me for further info if needed: jwcorp@email.com
Conquer glad you could chime in. I was in the process of hunting you down :seeya
Ok so that helps a ton. I feel much more confident on that now. Can you give any tips as far as placing the matt down? Before my process was to get a couple of cheap cups, fill with resin, drop some hardener in the cup and mixed it in with the resin. I then used a paint brush and applied a layer of the "goop" (lack of technical term) and then laid some matt on it. I then applied another coat of the "goop" and let it dry. I repeated this process 3 times. I also added more matt to the edges just to make them stronger.
How did you get such a clean edge though? I know damn well I won't be able to do that. Perhaps let that layer dry and use a dremel tool to level anything out?
The last things I'm concerned about is running the wires and placing the top on. Stay tuned for my next loooong post about running wires in the vette. So as far as making the top, is it an exact copy of the stock flimsy top? What did you mean by the 4 inches on the sides? Does that mean just place some wet glass on the sides and press the top down, let that dry, take the mold with the top out, and finish glassing the edges? My concern is that it might make the mold a little too wide and it would not properly fit in the hole.
Next time you have some free time write up a little something. I'm all ears and really would appreciate the advice.
Best tip for laying mat. Take your time prepping. I take the mat and precut all of my pieces to fit before mixing any resin. Then when I am satisfied I mix the resin and begin at the top and work my way to the bottom. I do this because the resin will run to the bottom and pool there mean I have to use less on the bottom. I also use a paint brush and make sure the the matt is very saturated evenly. After all the matt is laid you will want to do what is called "stippiling" the air bubbles. Take the paint brush and just stab any air bubbles you see till they are gone. Air pockets are weak spots in the glass and cause delamination later on down the road.
Almost forgot...I am going to building a very simular enclosure for my vette soon but out of carbon fiber. I will be posting pics of that as soon as I get started.
Best tip for laying mat. Take your time prepping. I take the mat and precut all of my pieces to fit before mixing any resin. Then when I am satisfied I mix the resin and begin at the top and work my way to the bottom. I do this because the resin will run to the bottom and pool there mean I have to use less on the bottom. I also use a paint brush and make sure the the matt is very saturated evenly. After all the matt is laid you will want to do what is called "stippiling" the air bubbles. Take the paint brush and just stab any air bubbles you see till they are gone. Air pockets are weak spots in the glass and cause delamination later on down the road.
:iagree:
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Almost forgot...I am going to building a very simular enclosure for my vette soon but out of carbon fiber. I will be posting pics of that as soon as I get started.
Ok sounds like that's a good idea. I am used to dabbing out my air bubbles. Do you recomend cutting 4 side pieces and 1 bottom piece? And of course 8 skinny long strips to reinforce the corners? That's how i've done this in my mind. Sounds like an awesome idea using carbon fiber. Never messed with that stuff, is it alot like glass?
Conquer, can you help me on the attaching the mold to the board again? I need an explanation of what you meant by the 4 pieces?!? :confused: <- as usual.
thanks a lot, I plan to start around thanksgiving.
:seeya
Carbon Fiber is alot like fiberglass in that it uses a two part resin and comes in a cloth form. But you use epoxy resin not polyester like with fiberglass and if you want the deep CF look then you have to pull it from a mold. Very time consuming and you have to be extra careful when laying it up if you are going for the look. You can not let it bunch up.
I take it there's probably some weight advantages to carbon fiber. It sounds like glass is the way to for me. I'm definately interested in your project. I'll start with some pics when I start over Thanksgiving.
Conquer, can you help me on the attaching the mold to the board again? I need an explanation of what you meant by the 4 pieces?!? :confused: <- as usual.
Sure... drop the mold back in to the well and cut four (one for each side) 4"x8" pieces of glass cloth. Take one piece at a time (dry, no resin yet) and lay on the outside ledge and let hang in to the mold, one on each side. Now, mix your resin... I prefer to make this batch "hot" since theres not much glass to apply the resin to and this will save dry time. Apply your resin to the glass strips. Working fast... set the lid on the top while still wet so the lid has time to absorb some of the resin. Position the lid exactly where you want it and set some type of weight on it, like a gym weight of 25lbs. or a few bricks, so it sets firmly.
When hardened/dryed....pull the box out, turn it upside down and apply glass all around the rest of the exposed edges to seal it up. A good 3-4 layers is recommended.
Ok great. that's what I had in mind. Man I'm ready to start crackin' on this project. I'll get on the horn later and get some mounting brackets from VrumVrum. I'll probably post later this week/weekend for some pics concerning the install.
Corvette Store
Ok let's talk about fibgerglass...
