2k1vert

I want to thank everyone hear for the invaluable information you provided to help guide me with my installation. After 2 weeks of reading, shopping and planning and finally had everything I needed to start the install. I spent 10 hours this Saturday and 4 hours Sunday to get the finished product shown in the following 10 pictures.

Unfortunately, I had auto focus turned off for the pictures taken of the door speakers. I used CDT CL-61 separates with Vrumvrums speaker mount plates.

Head Unit CDA-7998 with Vrumvrum's HU Trim Plate



Optima Yellow Top battery and 150 ANL fuse block


JL Audio 1000/1, JL Audio 300/2, Alpine TUA-T020XM XM Tuner


Finished AMP Rack and Image Dynamics Max 12" v3 D4 Sub

Thanks to Conquer for his skill in making the custom fiberglass subbox.



XM Antenna Mounting behind tail light and cable routing


:cheers:


[Modified by 2k1vert, 9:30 PM 9/29/2003]


[Modified by 2k1vert, 9:31 PM 9/29/2003]

mrkln

Nice looking install. How do you like the IDMAX? I am thinking of the IDMAX 1000/1 combo myself for my install.

knewblewkorvette

Sweet, nice pictures, thanks for sharing.
All done in 14 hours, thats amazing. :hurray:

2k1vert

I like the ID max so far. A note included with the sub indicated that it should not be played at full volume for a week, so I have not really been able to experience its full potential as of yet.

gaf99

14 Hours?! Impressive.

Where did you source the trim plate?

Conquer

:cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:

I had that same IDMAX... be prepared! It slams!! Your system looks great! :thumbs:

FYNL4

Great clean install !!!! Are you happy with the CDT CL61s, I'm thinking of buying them for my '02 vert. What did you do about the rear speakers?
Where did you get vrumvrum HUD ans speaker adapter plates?


[Modified by FYNL4, 4:26 PM 9/30/2003]

mrkln

BTW, how much volume did you give the IDMAX? I had an IDMAX V2 in a 1.21ft^3 box with about 700 watts on it and it was very impressive. I am still researching the correct enclosure volume for an IDMAX V3 with 1000+ watts on it.

Kale

1.3 after displacement seems to be the magic number, but more and more people are running them at 1.5

BIG LAW MAN

Nice install!

What do you think of the CDTs?

2k1vert

Thank you all for the compliments. I was very surprised that I completed it in 14 hours too. It has been about 6 years since I did an install myself, but with the Sub box already made and carpeted and front door plates already made and just needing to be bolted in place, it was really a breeze.


gaff99, You can contact Vrumvrum for the HU trim plate and front door speaker mounting plates by emailing him --> mstanzel@flamingpaperbag.com


fynl4, I really like the CDT's, but honestly I do have a gripe with the crossover mullex connector design. They come unplugged too easily and caused me problems. I had to put tie-wraps around the whole cross over to prevent them from coming unplugged from road vibrations. They do sound sweet and for the price are a deal. I have to agree with the folks that advised me in saying that you really don't need rear speakers. For the stock Bose setup they add fill and were noticeable, but with the system I have installed, it really does not need rear fill help any more. You can contact Vrumvrum for the HU trim plate and front door speaker mounting plates by emailing him --> mstanzel@flamingpaperbag.com


mrkln, I do not know the volume of the figerglass sub box that I bought from Conquer, it was very deep as it fit like a skin to the entire center well in the C5's. You can probably calculate the volume of your well for a very close approximation.


Big Law Man, see my comments above regarding the CDT's.


Again thanks for the complements.

2k1vert

:steering:

FYNL4

I had pretty much decided on the CDTs (lots of bang for the buck) and wanted your input to before making a final decision. Thanks for tip on the crossovers though, that could save me some aggravation. I've already been in contact with vrumvrum about the adapter plates, another great tip since I didn't know I would need any. About the rear speakers, all the gurus seem to feel they are not usefull in a convertible so I'm not going to worry about them for now. I hope my audio upgrades come out as slick as yours, you did a fantastic job. :thumbs:

knewblewkorvette

IMO, rear speakers are not needed in any vehicle except those who have a 5.1 surround setup. The 5.1 setup is whole another story.
Again, good job on the install. :thumbs:

0Vette Stripes

Wow, nice :thumbs:
Congrat one the new system,
:cheers:
***BTW, most of the forum members using CDT which make me thinking :D
I am currently using Infinity perfect ... and already cut a holes in the pannels so not sure the CDT tweeters will fit in the same holes.


[Modified by mike76002, 12:06 AM 10/1/2003]

2k1vert

Well don't be too quick to change. I'm still undecided. The JL 1000 and ID Max 12 is over powering everything. I have the gains on the JL 300 turned back enough to keep the CDT's from splattering and the HPF of the HU rolling the low freq off at 12db/oct trying to keep from busting them. Honestly I'm spending more time than I wanted to trying to tune the crossovers of the HU and the user EQ bands to help balance things out. I'm a little tone deaf between 3-8k in my left ear, so that is not helping none. I'm used to having brighter highs that are stronger. The sub seems to just punish me and I'm missing the SQ that I'm used too. I believe most of the problem to probably be my ignorance in using the features of the 7998 correctly to achive my desired sound goal. If anyone here has already worked out the 7998 profile for a 2-way system in a C5 with CDT CL-61's, please pass it along. I'm about ready to pull them out and try something I'm familar with.

Thanks
2k1vert :banghead:

2k1vert

One more thing for those who might ask some of the same things I did about the battery, alternator, caps, etc. The stock Alternator and a Optima Yellow top does not keep my system from dropping to about 13v when hitting a constant bass note using the JL 300/2 and JL 1000/1. Lights dim to the beat of the sound. If it were an occasional dip I'd consider a big cap, but I can easily keep the voltage down to 13v and it normally runs 14.1-14.3 or there abouts. Tells me a stronger alternator is needed.




[Modified by 2k1vert, 7:29 PM 10/1/2003]

0Vette Stripes

I got JBL 1200.1 1200 watts and Eclipse 4 channel at 800 watts and always play loud but never seen a dim. I got stock Alt., Yellow top, and 1F capacitor.
Just add a capacitor and may solve your peoblem.
BTW, I got JBL 12GTI sub which is 700watts RMS and 4000 watts peak at 3 Ohm.



[Modified by mike76002, 9:02 PM 10/1/2003]

knewblewkorvette

me too, JBL 1200.1 and two 80.4 bridged so I'm pushing approx 1700 watts rms. Have yellow top and 15 farad cap. I've seen the voltage on the DIC vary a tad but not to make anything dim at night.
Now, the 1200.1 that I installed in my truck last week makes the truck lights look like a disco at night. I know I need a higher guage wire for power and ground and a cap sure would not hurt. What is your guys opinion on which would help me the most of those two options?

Black$heep

Looks good!!!! Great post. Thanks for the pics. Doing mine this weekend. I will post pics of the finished project. :cool: :thumbs: :thumbs:

icedsoul

Hi there.
Nice work done there.

I wanted to know where you got that brilliant Trim Plate from? Or where I can find any other Trim Plates on the net.

Thx alot and take care.