This is what I am planning as of now. Looking for feedback if I should rethink components before I buy. 1990 C4 w/Bose and 105 amp generator, BOSE is all coming out.
Replacements:
Head Unit: Blaupunkt San Francisco CD70
AMP: HiFonics Zeuss Z4000 for the subs 100Wx2 @ 4ohms
SUBS: CDT MS80 8" 4ohm 100wrms in the rear speaker locations
Front: CDT CC51 5.25 2 way in the doors/pods
The plan is to pull all of the BOSE and make a stealth install with only the head unit visible. Just looking to create a nice tight/flat system.
Considerations:
1. Do I need to use/or consider a cap with only the one amp?
2. I am planning on running the fronts off of the head unit, okay? or should I spring for another amp?
3. Power balance: I would be running 100wrms to the subs, and 45wrms to the fronts, what type of ratio do I want here?
4. Substitution recommendations? Limited budget, need to keep cost down without digging into quality, I can do the proposed system by installing it myself for under $1000, $870 for major items and guessing $130 for incidentals, ie wiring, hardware etc.
I was thinking of using a smoked or painted plexiglass plate for the dash opening, anyone do this, or are the retail kits real good?
I also see I need an adapter for the wiring harness of course, and one for the antenna. Are there any other adapters or recommended items I need for this install?
btw, port those MS-80's. Tune them to about 26hz in a .45 enclosure... otherwise just seal them in a .45 enclosure They have an ULTRA LOW FS and don't sound like 8's.. .but are kind of quiet subwoofer... ported, they have reasonable SPL. I run mine at 50 watts per side. DO NOT run these subs into clipping ported! Dont set the gains too high, dont "up the bass control" dont use bass boost!
1) dont worry about Caps, many people believe they are snake oil, anyway. But with the power you're running... your elec system will be fine and dandy.
2) Get an amp for the fronts.
3) You're **not** running 45 rms with that head unit, you're running ~18 rms... get a 60x2-100x2 amplifier for the fronts. The CDT subwoofers blend better than any subs I've heard, so don't worry about giving them double the power.
You are correct, CL51. What about the head unit? Any experience with those? And I am planning to seal the subs, thus the CDT MS-80's, I dont care for the peaks and issues of porting a sub. Although if done correctly it is nice.
Thanks
Doug
26hz in a .45 box is "done correctly" actually. The issue is, you'd need at least a 2.5" port or you'll get port noise.. making ports can be a pain in the butt because of length.
Ive never owned a blaupunkt head unit, so I cant comment on that. I havent really heard anything about them, either.
I have a Blau SF here.. I'll give you the stats when I bench it. The only drawback I see is that it doesn't play MP3 CD's... just about every new head out there does now.
Thanks Kale, that is the best price I have seen yet on those, almost saves enough to pay for the front amp! :cheers: What about making a slot port as opposed to a round port? As long as the port volume is equivalent, right? Will 6.5-6.75 fit up front? I think I remember seeing the 5.25 were almost a drop in. You nailed it precisely, ports are a PIA to do right, that is the point I was trying to make. :D Are the HD speakers that much better than the CL that I should spring for them instead? And I was looking at 100wpc (or possibly on the subs, should I go for 150 to 200?
Thanks,
Doug :thumbs:
the HD's mid is superior.. it is more clear than the CL-51's. for the extra cost, definately get the HD.
I use round ports, because i have drill bits the right size... I would probably use a slot port on my next box. as long as the port area isnt small it should be fine.. .but then you end up with really long ports. I modeled a NICE port for the Brahma sub I'm going to get, and its like, 119" long... sealed for me there.
I think 100 is perfect for these subs. I ran one at 230 watts for a while, and it didnt hurt it. Of course, i didnt use bass boost or anything like that. a pair of the ms-80's have the "perfect presence" for sq, but definately won't blur your vision or make your teeth hurt.
i run my HD 52's at 115x2+ ( i know the amp makes more than that )
I think a 1990 needs to be modified to fit a 6.5...
SUBS: CDT MS80 8" 4ohm 100wrms in the rear speaker locations
Front: CDT HD 52 5.25 2 way in the doors/pods
At least I have this much figured out eh? :lolg:
Is there a good amp that I can bridge 2+1 or would have the headroom in 4 channels for this setup? Just trying to stay in the stealth mode of my plan. And still cant make my mind up about the head unit. I do know I would like to have some good signal processing-ie eq/peq, etc in it, MP3 would be nice as I plan to put my music in MP3 someday soon. Also trying to keep this quality without breaking the bank! Amp and head unit suggestions are most welcome!
Thanks all,
Doug
im using ARC amps on my set up, and it's so clean, you could eat off the sound waves.
Clarion amps are basically ARC amps wi th cheaper power supplies/heatsinks and some lesser components.. i bet only someoen with real gOOD hearing could tell the difference in sound.
arc = z06, clarion = corvette
mmxpress.com has some good prices on them.
i have not personally owned the clarions though, and ARC are quite expensive. The 2100 (which i use for my fronts) was $399
But really... a pair of 100x2 amps would be perfect...
Kale, Thanks for the help bro, appreciate your time, same goes for all who have responded to my question... :cheers:
New question, what guage wiring should I run to the amp? I plan on basically running a dedicated fuzed line, I also will need the wiring adapter and antenna adapter which vendor TL Electronics has, is there anything else I am going to need? Noise suppression? should I dynamat while it is open? etc etc...??
Thanks
Doug
Kale, What software did you use to model the subs?
And where may I find it? I would like to model 5.25's too. I saw where someone had just installed them right into the Bose shells with an MDF faceplate. Should I use 3/4" or will 1/2" be good enough in the doors? As far as the sub enclosures go, .45cft ported at least 2.5" dia, how long? And how much bracing should that small of a box require? What do you think of sealing it and using stuffing box with polyfill? Also, what size fuze should I plan for that amp? Why is there twisted pair for DC? I know with AC systems, twisted pair is used to prevent interference, but why with DC system? More snake oil? Is system electrical noise a problem in the C4? And where can I find the information they were recommending to read about sound deadening? I really want to do this simply, cleanly, and most importantly.......RIGHT! I really do appreciate your help on this! :cheers:
Doug
Re: Kale, What software did you use to model the subs? (bkdaaa)
Quote:
And where may I find it? I would like to model 5.25's too. I saw where someone had just installed them right into the Bose shells with an MDF faceplate. Should I use 3/4" or will 1/2" be good enough in the doors? As far as the sub enclosures go, .45cft ported at least 2.5" dia, how long? And how much bracing should that small of a box require? What do you think of sealing it and using stuffing box with polyfill? Also, what size fuze should I plan for that amp? Why is there twisted pair for DC? I know with AC systems, twisted pair is used to prevent interference, but why with DC system? More snake oil? Is system electrical noise a problem in the C4? And where can I find the information they were recommending to read about sound deadening? I really want to do this simply, cleanly, and most importantly.......RIGHT! I really do appreciate your help on this! :cheers:
Doug
find what?
The vent would have to be 44" (seriously) so i wouldnt bother on second thought.
sub box wont need bracing
1/2 is fine for 5.25's.
i dont use polyfill, .45 is perfect for a sealed MS80
twisted pair works when you have a balanced signal... thats laughable in a stereo application.
I never had noise problems with my C4.
for sound deadening... id do 2 laeyrs of brown bread or edead, and repalce the factory deadening with closed cell foam from secondskinaudio.com (email them) thats how im going to go in my truck
Re: Kale, What software did you use to model the subs? (Kale)
I was asking if you used a software package for modeling the speakers. :lol: And if so, where might I find a copy of the program. And thanks for the link to the system site, that oughta answer alot of questions.
:cheers: :cheers:
Thanks,
Doug
Thanks Kale, I appreciate your input. Can I bug you with tuning questions after I get the install done? Thinking I went a bit overboard on the amp, woulda been easier to hide 2 100x2, oh well, that'll make it fun. What do I need to take into consideration if I enclose the amp? Any idea of how much airflow I should have? CFM? If I hide it I was thinking about some of those squirrel cage fans(quieter). And the brown bread damping material, is there a rule of thumb there? Where do and don't I want to put it?
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Feedback on system ideas (initial design phase)
