Switched power supply?
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Switched power supply?
When I bought my '06 last spring it came with a BOSS aftermarket head unit that I don't care much for but the most obvious issue with it is that it does not go off when I turn the car off. I finally got around to buying a replacement and I dove into it today, The always on problem was obvious right away, someone had spliced a second wire off of the constant 12V wire (yellow) and ran it to the ACC input on the BOSS. Problem is I don't see any switched power sources anywhere. There is what looks like a factory harness with a big connector but none of those wires are 12V when the ignition or ACC is on. Can someone tell me where I might find one?
#2
Pro
Thread Starter
Here is a photo of what I have. There are 8 wires that look like speaker wires that have been clipped, 6 RCA connectors, and a 24-pin connector fed by a harness. The connector holds 8 speaker wires, a ground, two orange, white, yellow and red/white wires. There is also a gray wire coming out of the harness that has been clipped. The yellow is constant 12V and none of the other four wires are energized even in ACC mode. The yellow wire coming out of the connector is the one that has been spliced, going to the BAT+ and ACC terminals on the BOSS. How much of this is stock?
#3
Safety Car
First of all an interface is needed with a aftermarket stereo installation on these cars, the most commonly used one on this forum it the PAC RP5-GM11 the latest version of which looks like this.
If the stereo was installed correctly, some sort of interface should have been used, it may differ than the one shown above. If they didn't use an interface, and just spliced into the wiring, this can cause all sorts of issues. The interfaces have the wiring for switched and constant power as you can see here.
The first thing I suggest you do is determine if you have an interface, and determine the brand, then go to that companies web site and look at the installation instructions for wiring it up. If you don't have an interface you might have a whole other can of worms. If you're not sure, post a photo of what you have, and we could probably help you through it.
If the stereo was installed correctly, some sort of interface should have been used, it may differ than the one shown above. If they didn't use an interface, and just spliced into the wiring, this can cause all sorts of issues. The interfaces have the wiring for switched and constant power as you can see here.
The first thing I suggest you do is determine if you have an interface, and determine the brand, then go to that companies web site and look at the installation instructions for wiring it up. If you don't have an interface you might have a whole other can of worms. If you're not sure, post a photo of what you have, and we could probably help you through it.
#4
Safety Car
Here is a photo of what I have. There are 8 wires that look like speaker wires that have been clipped, 6 RCA connectors, and a 24-pin connector fed by a harness. The connector holds 8 speaker wires, a ground, two orange, white, yellow and red/white wires. There is also a gray wire coming out of the harness that has been clipped. The yellow is constant 12V and none of the other four wires are energized even in ACC mode. The yellow wire coming out of the connector is the one that has been spliced, going to the BAT+ and ACC terminals on the BOSS. How much of this is stock?
#5
Advanced
When I bought my '06 last spring it came with a BOSS aftermarket head unit that I don't care much for but the most obvious issue with it is that it does not go off when I turn the car off. I finally got around to buying a replacement and I dove into it today, The always on problem was obvious right away, someone had spliced a second wire off of the constant 12V wire (yellow) and ran it to the ACC input on the BOSS. Problem is I don't see any switched power sources anywhere. There is what looks like a factory harness with a big connector but none of those wires are 12V when the ignition or ACC is on. Can someone tell me where I might find one?
#6
Pro
Thread Starter
Thanks madsonp, I'm slipping over all the worms on the garage floor already but I didn't think this would be easy. Here are a couple more photos both into and out of the 24-pin connector. There are two connectors that plug into the BOSS, one for the speakers and one for power, antenna/remote, etc.
If there is a PAC, would I see it in this area or could it be mounted somewhere else? I doubt it's there, I don't get any chimes at all in the car.
I am totally up for installing an interface and making things right, I just hope there is a way forward on that and that the original wiring has not been screwed up to the point where that is not feasible.
If there is a PAC, would I see it in this area or could it be mounted somewhere else? I doubt it's there, I don't get any chimes at all in the car.
I am totally up for installing an interface and making things right, I just hope there is a way forward on that and that the original wiring has not been screwed up to the point where that is not feasible.
#7
Safety Car
Thanks madsonp, I'm slipping over all the worms on the garage floor already but I didn't think this would be easy. Here are a couple more photos both into and out of the 24-pin connector. There are two connectors that plug into the BOSS, one for the speakers and one for power, antenna/remote, etc.
If there is a PAC, would I see it in this area or could it be mounted somewhere else? I doubt it's there, I don't get any chimes at all in the car.
I am totally up for installing an interface and making things right, I just hope there is a way forward on that and that the original wiring has not been screwed up to the point where that is not feasible.
If there is a PAC, would I see it in this area or could it be mounted somewhere else? I doubt it's there, I don't get any chimes at all in the car.
I am totally up for installing an interface and making things right, I just hope there is a way forward on that and that the original wiring has not been screwed up to the point where that is not feasible.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/how-to...igation-368176
#8
Pro
Thread Starter
Ok thanks, looks like my work is cut out for me. Well it won't be the first time I had to undo and fix a kluge from a previous owner. I'll keep you posted.
Jim
Jim
#9
Racer
Here is a photo of what I have. There are 8 wires that look like speaker wires that have been clipped, 6 RCA connectors, and a 24-pin connector fed by a harness. The connector holds 8 speaker wires, a ground, two orange, white, yellow and red/white wires. There is also a gray wire coming out of the harness that has been clipped. The yellow is constant 12V and none of the other four wires are energized even in ACC mode. The yellow wire coming out of the connector is the one that has been spliced, going to the BAT+ and ACC terminals on the BOSS. How much of this is stock?
#10
Pro
Thread Starter
I pulled the center console today, wasn't too bad but some of those connectors put up quite a struggle. After getting it out and gaining more access, I saw that all those extra wires are routed to the left side of the car and run underneath the door. If I had taken a hard look before tearing into it I would have seen that, sigh.
As for the interface...looking at the PAC unit I am now not so sure I it is worth the effort in my case. Here is a list of what it is supposed to do:
- Retains OnStar® and functions when the factory radio is replaced
- Retains steering wheel controls (pre-programmed)
- Retains factory Bluetooth (2009+ model vehicles)
- Retains rear seat audio controls
- Retains all warning chimes (chime module included)
- Retains back-up sensors/park assist
- Retains factory BOSE and premium Bose audio systems (Does not retain fade in digital systems)
- Compatible with non-amplified audio systems
- Chime volume adjustment (factory buttons)
- Rear Seat Entertainment Retention
- Retained accessory power output (RAP)
- Reverse Wire output
- VSS (Vehicle Speed Sense) output
- Illumination output, Parking brake output
- Includes antenna adapter
#11
Safety Car
The red wire is not energized in either ACC or with the engine running. I don't know why, yet.
I pulled the center console today, wasn't too bad but some of those connectors put up quite a struggle. After getting it out and gaining more access, I saw that all those extra wires are routed to the left side of the car and run underneath the door. If I had taken a hard look before tearing into it I would have seen that, sigh.
As for the interface...looking at the PAC unit I am now not so sure I it is worth the effort in my case. Here is a list of what it is supposed to do:
I pulled the center console today, wasn't too bad but some of those connectors put up quite a struggle. After getting it out and gaining more access, I saw that all those extra wires are routed to the left side of the car and run underneath the door. If I had taken a hard look before tearing into it I would have seen that, sigh.
As for the interface...looking at the PAC unit I am now not so sure I it is worth the effort in my case. Here is a list of what it is supposed to do:
- Retains OnStar® and functions when the factory radio is replaced
- Retains steering wheel controls (pre-programmed)
- Retains factory Bluetooth (2009+ model vehicles)
- Retains rear seat audio controls
- Retains all warning chimes (chime module included)
- Retains back-up sensors/park assist
- Retains factory BOSE and premium Bose audio systems (Does not retain fade in digital systems)
- Compatible with non-amplified audio systems
- Chime volume adjustment (factory buttons)
- Rear Seat Entertainment Retention
- Retained accessory power output (RAP)
- Reverse Wire output
- VSS (Vehicle Speed Sense) output
- Illumination output, Parking brake output
- Includes antenna adapter
OnStar retention - If you subscribe to OnStar you'll want this feature.
Steering wheel controls - If you car has this feature, you'll want this. If your car doesn't have these I can give you some guidance on how to add them if you're interested.
Bluetooth retention - chances are if you get a new head unit that has Bluetooth built into it, you won't need this.
Rear seat audio (RSE) and audio controls - of course the Vette's don't need this as we have no rear seats.
Warning chimes - These are good to have a retain to have the car chimes to warn you of certain things i.e. if you leave your head lights on.
Backup sensors - Not needed on the Vette.
Retains Bose - This is something you'll wand it running the stock amplifier, even if it not "Bose" because all Corvettes have a stock amplifier
Retained accessory power (RAP)- with this, the power to the head unit remains on when you shut the car off, until a door is opened or 10 minutes passes, then it shuts it off automatically. Good to have if you're waiting in the car for the wife to come out of the store.
Reverse wire output - needed if you install a backup camera (which I highly recommend), This activates the head unit to display the camera automatically anytime the car is put in reverse. I personally also installed a front camera on my car which is handy to help avoid damage to the front end when pulling up to parking blocks.
Vehicle speed sensor (VSS) - Needed if you get a aftermarket Navigation head unit which makes it more accurate, also used on some non navigations specific units to make smart phone navigation more accurate vis CarPlay etc.
Illumination output - This is needed to dim the display of the head unit automatically whenever the head lights are turn on, some of the head units with screens can be bright, so it's a good feature to retain.
Parking Brake output - This is needed to make some changes on some head units, so you don't try to make them while driving potentially distracting you, it unlocks these features when the car is stopped, and the parking brake applied. There're was to bypass thiis however if you choose to.
I'm personally running the GM1A-RST in mine, with my Pioneer navigation system, and I also have steering wheel controls. The OnStar retention wasn't needed in my case because OnStar is no longer supported on my car, so to disable this feature on the interface, I just pulled the OnStar fues in the fuse panel. So I hope this help you make a decision, let me know if you have any other questions.
Last edited by madsonp; 02-18-2023 at 11:37 AM.
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Jim__H (02-18-2023)
#12
Pro
Thread Starter
Lots of useful info there, some of those features I need and some I don't. Thanks I will explore what the other units offer.
Looks like one of the POs installed a big sound system in the car, pulled it before selling it but left all the cables.
Looks like one of the POs installed a big sound system in the car, pulled it before selling it but left all the cables.
#13
Safety Car
Yep, that's what I figured, hopefully they didn't butcher things up to bad, at least the car side of the gray connector shown in your pictures looks intact, that's a good thing. I'd suggest checking all the connectors on the stock amp to make sure everything looks good there, and that they're connected up and have nothing spliced into them. It's located under the front of the passenger side carpet, next to the fuse panel on the left side, I used to have a good photo of it to show you but I can't find it, perhaps someone else reading this thread has a picture of it they could share. Let me know what you find.
#14
Pro
Thread Starter
Yep, that's what I figured, hopefully they didn't butcher things up to bad, at least the car side of the gray connector shown in your pictures looks intact, that's a good thing. I'd suggest checking all the connectors on the stock amp to make sure everything looks good there, and that they're connected up and have nothing spliced into them. It's located under the front of the passenger side carpet, next to the fuse panel on the left side, I used to have a good photo of it to show you but I can't find it, perhaps someone else reading this thread has a picture of it they could share. Let me know what you find.
#15
Safety Car
I'm still in the discovery phase, at the end of yesterday's session I took a quick look for the amplifier and didn't see it but I did not try too hard, but yes a key part for sure. That is an impressive set of cables that someone ran though, including a massive one about the gauge of a jumper cable and it goes from the battery area all the way to the back of the car. Might be enough copper in there to fund the interface, haha.
#16
Safety Car
Ok, I found a picture of the stock amp in the C6, it's one I found on the internet so disregard all the other stuff on it. The amp is shown with the red arrow. Again this is to the left of the fuse box under the passenger side carpet.
#17
Pro
Thread Starter
Thanks! I got to mine yesterday, here is a photo, looks like the connections are unmolested. I looked on the PAC site and I think I'll go with the bare bones model, GM1A-R, if I can find one. It is pretty much all that I need and it looks like the installation is easier. I also yanked all those miles of cables out of the car, I am sure I won't be needing them.
So when I get the interface I guess I have some wiring to sort out. The only wiring schematic I have is in my Haynes manual and it is not really helping much.The ones I have found on the forum are not readable, is there a good source that you know of?
So when I get the interface I guess I have some wiring to sort out. The only wiring schematic I have is in my Haynes manual and it is not really helping much.The ones I have found on the forum are not readable, is there a good source that you know of?
#18
Safety Car
Thanks! I got to mine yesterday, here is a photo, looks like the connections are unmolested. I looked on the PAC site and I think I'll go with the bare bones model, GM1A-R, if I can find one. It is pretty much all that I need and it looks like the installation is easier. I also yanked all those miles of cables out of the car, I am sure I won't be needing them.
So when I get the interface I guess I have some wiring to sort out. The only wiring schematic I have is in my Haynes manual and it is not really helping much.The ones I have found on the forum are not readable, is there a good source that you know of?
So when I get the interface I guess I have some wiring to sort out. The only wiring schematic I have is in my Haynes manual and it is not really helping much.The ones I have found on the forum are not readable, is there a good source that you know of?
Last edited by madsonp; 02-20-2023 at 08:29 AM.
#19
Pro
Thread Starter
Ok, great and thanks. If you are saying that the PAC interface replaces the connector that plugs into that harness connector that is good to hear. I took a quick look at that connector yesterday and noticed that there is no connection between the red wire coming from the harness and the red ACC wire that was supposed to go to the BOSS. I did not trace that red harness wire back to the fuse to verify but if so then that explains why the previous guy spliced off the BAT+ wire. Not sure why he couldn't figure that out though, considering all the other wiring he had to do.
Jim
Jim
#20
Safety Car
Ok, great and thanks. If you are saying that the PAC interface replaces the connector that plugs into that harness connector that is good to hear. I took a quick look at that connector yesterday and noticed that there is no connection between the red wire coming from the harness and the red ACC wire that was supposed to go to the BOSS. I did not trace that red harness wire back to the fuse to verify but if so then that explains why the previous guy spliced off the BAT+ wire. Not sure why he couldn't figure that out though, considering all the other wiring he had to do.
Jim
Jim
So this connector will plug into the factory connector in place of the one shown above.
Last edited by madsonp; 02-20-2023 at 01:29 PM.
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Jim__H (02-21-2023)