What speakers did you use
#21
Instructor
I'm in the process of installing my JL Audio C2-525x in the rear of my c5 Z06, but I am having trouble getting the speaker frame to seat in the hole. It is as if the speaker is too deep. Has anyone else had this issue and if so, what did you do to correct it? Thanks for any help. Save the wave.
#22
Racer
Another Focal lover here. Here's what I installed. https://www.focal-america.com/product/es165kx2/
Literally, the speakers you buy at Autozone are better than Bose.
Literally, the speakers you buy at Autozone are better than Bose.
How did you mount those tweeters? And what did you put in the 5 1/4 spots in the trunk?
#23
Le Mans Master
I used a custom aluminum tweeter mount hand made by a dude in Germany. I run Focal K2Ps in the 5.25" spot in the back.
#24
Drifting
Focal Integration 6.5" components....only cost $130 and sound great. Not super loud, but sound quality is good enough. Unless you are into competitions, you really don't need to get crazy on spending much anymore like we had to 20 years ago.
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Energy CC (01-09-2020)
#25
Racer
Did you replace the head unit as well or will speakers alone provide a discernible upgrade in sound quality?
#26
Racer
#27
Racer
Ok, so what is the minimum investment for decent sound? Head unit, set of 5 1/4, set of 6 1/2 for roughly $1k?
Or is an amp & crossover required for decent sound? I haven't gone down this rabbit hole in ~20 years, sorry for the stupid questions.
Or is an amp & crossover required for decent sound? I haven't gone down this rabbit hole in ~20 years, sorry for the stupid questions.
#28
Racer
At a minimum, I'd replace the headunit with a decent name brand (Pioneer, JVC, Kenwood, Sony, etc) run some fresh speaker wires through the doors and directly to the headunit, and get some decent ($100 up) 6.5 inch speakers for the doors. You could go further and replace the back speakers as well, but that's more of a personal preference. I personally added a subwoofer to complete the upgrade, because the 6.5 inch speakers in the doors alone will not match the amount of bass you otherwise get from the stock bose speakers you would be replacing.
#29
Racer
At a minimum, I'd replace the headunit with a decent name brand (Pioneer, JVC, Kenwood, Sony, etc) run some fresh speaker wires through the doors and directly to the headunit, and get some decent ($100 up) 6.5 inch speakers for the doors. You could go further and replace the back speakers as well, but that's more of a personal preference. I personally added a subwoofer to complete the upgrade, because the 6.5 inch speakers in the doors alone will not match the amount of bass you otherwise get from the stock bose speakers you would be replacing.
you last statement confuses me: If I upgrade the door speakers with components, I will have less base than stock and will need a separate sub?
#30
Racer
That was my experience. The stock bose speakers put out more bass, because they are physically bigger. The smaller 6.5's will sound much better, but will need help, if you care about bass
#31
Racer
What did you end up using for a box & amp? Did you need to upgrade the alternator?
#32
Racer
I ended up buying a generic 12"box for the storage area in the trunk. Bought a nice 5 channel rockford fosgate amp and a p2 rockford fosgate sub. I went with jbl 6.5 speakers. The setup sounds phenomenal, for about 800 bucks.
#33
Racer
Has anyone needed to wire the parking brake for the setting on the stereo to work? Any problems/pointers?
#34
Le Mans Master
Run it to a ground. Easy.
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Bigblue77 (01-09-2020)
#35
Racer
Almost all brand name, video capable, head units will have what's called a "bypass kit" available for it on the market. It's an inexpensive device that simulates the parking brake procedure. Sometimes it's as simple as grounding the parking brake input like PBRonib suggested, other times it requires you do that three times in a row within a minute, etc etc Getting that bypass kit is super easy.
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Bigblue77 (01-09-2020)
#36
Team Owner
you have the GS so it has the high output alternator as does my Z51 car. I have two JL amps pushing out 1050w and no issues at all with the electrical
Last edited by NYC6; 01-09-2020 at 11:10 PM.
#37
Racer
Should I start a new thread or just keep asking questions in the one I hijacked? lol
#38
Le Mans Master
You're close to needing more alternator. I'm at 1400W RMS about to bump it up to 2000W RMS. My lights and dash dim at 1400 when the sub hits. My solution is having a custom alternator built. 290A @ 1800 rpm and 240A @ 600 rpm. Based on the electrical demand I will have with all my electronics, this should be just enough for everything and some wiggle room.
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NYC6 (01-10-2020)
#39
Racer
I am thinking that I will start with the Kenwood Excelon DMX906S head unit and the JL Audio C2-350x in the upper door, leaving the Bose door woofer for now.
See how that goes and then Focal RSE-165 in the door with a JL Stealthbox in the trunk with an amp if I can’t stand the sound quality & staging.
the problem is that bass will cost as much as the head unit so I’d like to see how that “stage 1” upgrade sounds before replacing the stock Bose door woofer.
Thoughts? Reasonable?
See how that goes and then Focal RSE-165 in the door with a JL Stealthbox in the trunk with an amp if I can’t stand the sound quality & staging.
the problem is that bass will cost as much as the head unit so I’d like to see how that “stage 1” upgrade sounds before replacing the stock Bose door woofer.
Thoughts? Reasonable?
Last edited by Bigblue77; 01-10-2020 at 08:02 AM.
#40
Le Mans Master
If you care at ALL about sound quality or output, you MUST add a sub. There is no comparison...zero...zip....nada. Adding good speakers is fine and all and a good start. You will immediately understand the necessity for a sub when you fire it up for the first time.
Last edited by Pb82 Ronin; 01-10-2020 at 08:12 AM.
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