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What speakers did you use

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Old 01-01-2020, 08:51 PM
  #21  
glfrmrk
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I'm in the process of installing my JL Audio C2-525x in the rear of my c5 Z06, but I am having trouble getting the speaker frame to seat in the hole. It is as if the speaker is too deep. Has anyone else had this issue and if so, what did you do to correct it? Thanks for any help. Save the wave.
Old 01-01-2020, 09:19 PM
  #22  
Bigblue77
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Originally Posted by Pb82 Ronin
Another Focal lover here. Here's what I installed. https://www.focal-america.com/product/es165kx2/




Literally, the speakers you buy at Autozone are better than Bose.

How did you mount those tweeters? And what did you put in the 5 1/4 spots in the trunk?
Old 01-01-2020, 09:36 PM
  #23  
Pb82 Ronin
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I used a custom aluminum tweeter mount hand made by a dude in Germany. I run Focal K2Ps in the 5.25" spot in the back.
Old 01-09-2020, 02:25 PM
  #24  
bdanyluk
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Focal Integration 6.5" components....only cost $130 and sound great. Not super loud, but sound quality is good enough. Unless you are into competitions, you really don't need to get crazy on spending much anymore like we had to 20 years ago.
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Old 01-09-2020, 03:34 PM
  #25  
Bigblue77
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Originally Posted by bdanyluk
Focal Integration 6.5" components....only cost $130 and sound great. Not super loud, but sound quality is good enough. Unless you are into competitions, you really don't need to get crazy on spending much anymore like we had to 20 years ago.

Did you replace the head unit as well or will speakers alone provide a discernible upgrade in sound quality?
Old 01-09-2020, 04:11 PM
  #26  
Energy CC
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Originally Posted by Bigblue77
Did you replace the head unit as well or will speakers alone provide a discernible upgrade in sound quality?
You HAVE to... The stock unit will not provide the correct set of frequencies to the speakers for them to sound good.
Old 01-09-2020, 04:41 PM
  #27  
Bigblue77
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Ok, so what is the minimum investment for decent sound? Head unit, set of 5 1/4, set of 6 1/2 for roughly $1k?

Or is an amp & crossover required for decent sound? I haven't gone down this rabbit hole in ~20 years, sorry for the stupid questions.
Old 01-09-2020, 05:00 PM
  #28  
Energy CC
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Originally Posted by Bigblue77
Ok, so what is the minimum investment for decent sound? Head unit, set of 5 1/4, set of 6 1/2 for roughly $1k?

Or is an amp & crossover required for decent sound? I haven't gone down this rabbit hole in ~20 years, sorry for the stupid questions.
At a minimum, I'd replace the headunit with a decent name brand (Pioneer, JVC, Kenwood, Sony, etc) run some fresh speaker wires through the doors and directly to the headunit, and get some decent ($100 up) 6.5 inch speakers for the doors. You could go further and replace the back speakers as well, but that's more of a personal preference. I personally added a subwoofer to complete the upgrade, because the 6.5 inch speakers in the doors alone will not match the amount of bass you otherwise get from the stock bose speakers you would be replacing.
Old 01-09-2020, 06:38 PM
  #29  
Bigblue77
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Originally Posted by Energy CC
At a minimum, I'd replace the headunit with a decent name brand (Pioneer, JVC, Kenwood, Sony, etc) run some fresh speaker wires through the doors and directly to the headunit, and get some decent ($100 up) 6.5 inch speakers for the doors. You could go further and replace the back speakers as well, but that's more of a personal preference. I personally added a subwoofer to complete the upgrade, because the 6.5 inch speakers in the doors alone will not match the amount of bass you otherwise get from the stock bose speakers you would be replacing.

you last statement confuses me: If I upgrade the door speakers with components, I will have less base than stock and will need a separate sub?
Old 01-09-2020, 07:27 PM
  #30  
Energy CC
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Originally Posted by Bigblue77
you last statement confuses me: If I upgrade the door speakers with components, I will have less base than stock and will need a separate sub?
That was my experience. The stock bose speakers put out more bass, because they are physically bigger. The smaller 6.5's will sound much better, but will need help, if you care about bass
Old 01-09-2020, 08:45 PM
  #31  
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What did you end up using for a box & amp? Did you need to upgrade the alternator?
Old 01-09-2020, 08:52 PM
  #32  
Energy CC
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I ended up buying a generic 12"box for the storage area in the trunk. Bought a nice 5 channel rockford fosgate amp and a p2 rockford fosgate sub. I went with jbl 6.5 speakers. The setup sounds phenomenal, for about 800 bucks.
Old 01-09-2020, 09:52 PM
  #33  
Bigblue77
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Has anyone needed to wire the parking brake for the setting on the stereo to work? Any problems/pointers?
Old 01-09-2020, 10:19 PM
  #34  
Pb82 Ronin
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Run it to a ground. Easy.
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Old 01-09-2020, 10:51 PM
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Energy CC
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Originally Posted by Bigblue77
Has anyone needed to wire the parking brake for the setting on the stereo to work? Any problems/pointers?
Almost all brand name, video capable, head units will have what's called a "bypass kit" available for it on the market. It's an inexpensive device that simulates the parking brake procedure. Sometimes it's as simple as grounding the parking brake input like PBRonib suggested, other times it requires you do that three times in a row within a minute, etc etc Getting that bypass kit is super easy.
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Old 01-09-2020, 11:04 PM
  #36  
NYC6
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Originally Posted by Bigblue77
What did you end up using for a box & amp? Did you need to upgrade the alternator?
you have the GS so it has the high output alternator as does my Z51 car. I have two JL amps pushing out 1050w and no issues at all with the electrical

Last edited by NYC6; 01-09-2020 at 11:10 PM.
Old 01-09-2020, 11:04 PM
  #37  
Bigblue77
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Should I start a new thread or just keep asking questions in the one I hijacked? lol

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Old 01-10-2020, 07:00 AM
  #38  
Pb82 Ronin
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Originally Posted by NYC6
you have the GS so it has the high output alternator as does my Z51 car. I have two JL amps pushing out 1050w and no issues at all with the electrical
You're close to needing more alternator. I'm at 1400W RMS about to bump it up to 2000W RMS. My lights and dash dim at 1400 when the sub hits. My solution is having a custom alternator built. 290A @ 1800 rpm and 240A @ 600 rpm. Based on the electrical demand I will have with all my electronics, this should be just enough for everything and some wiggle room.
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Old 01-10-2020, 08:01 AM
  #39  
Bigblue77
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I am thinking that I will start with the Kenwood Excelon DMX906S head unit and the JL Audio C2-350x in the upper door, leaving the Bose door woofer for now.

See how that goes and then Focal RSE-165 in the door with a JL Stealthbox in the trunk with an amp if I can’t stand the sound quality & staging.

the problem is that bass will cost as much as the head unit so I’d like to see how that “stage 1” upgrade sounds before replacing the stock Bose door woofer.

Thoughts? Reasonable?

Last edited by Bigblue77; 01-10-2020 at 08:02 AM.
Old 01-10-2020, 08:12 AM
  #40  
Pb82 Ronin
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If you care at ALL about sound quality or output, you MUST add a sub. There is no comparison...zero...zip....nada. Adding good speakers is fine and all and a good start. You will immediately understand the necessity for a sub when you fire it up for the first time.

Last edited by Pb82 Ronin; 01-10-2020 at 08:12 AM.
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