Need some help, just installed a US Acustics USX2100

[SLICKMAN]

I have everything turned down to the lowest point (on the amp). If I turn the Base up a little and the Level as well, in less than 5 min of playing it a little loud it shuts down :confused: If I shut down the power and back on, it seems to re-set. If I turn up the level too much, it shuts down even sooner :confused: I'm not talking about the level being up too much, only about 25% up from full lowest position. What am I doing wrong? I have Jenson 6x9 rated at 40 watts (220w peak). See below.. Is there something I can do to stop this? I dont care if I blow the 6x9's over time.. [Modified by SLICKMAN, 5:16 PM 9/22/2002]

[JoeyG]

My guess would be it's going into thermal overload. How warm is the amplifier heatsink when the amp shuts off?

If you have a multi-meter try doing a continuity/ohm check on each channels wiring at the amp to make sure both channels are balanced and theres not one channel runing at 1 ohm and the other at 4 ohms.

[SLICKMAN]

Its cool as can be as if it was just turned on. I can do the continuity/ohm check, the speaker are brand new so, I would think they would be right at 4 ohms..

My guess would be it's going into thermal overload. How warm is the amplifier heatsink when the amp shuts off?

If you have a multi-meter try doing a continuity/ohm check on each channels wiring at the amp to make sure both channels are balanced and theres not one channel runing at 1 ohm and the other at 4 ohms.

[Kale]

bad ground? what gauge wire on the amp?

[SLICKMAN]

The wire gauge is 14 gauge, would this cause it to shut down like this under a small load?

[Kale]

14 gauge power wire? I hope your insurance company covers fire.

Do you have ti fused at the battery?

If it's 14 gauge to the speakers, that's fine.. but otherwise..

At the VERY smallest, your power and ground should be 8 gauge!

I think this is part of your problem.


[Modified by Kale, 5:28 PM 9/22/2002]

[SLICKMAN]

Did not think that I needed that high of a gauge. I’ll replace it pronto and hope this fixes the problem..

[Kale]

You do have it fused within a few inches of the battery right? I'd hate to see your car catch fire.

I suggest going with 4.. if you run the cable might as well get a bigger gauge for future expansion.



[Modified by Kale, 5:36 PM 9/22/2002]

[JoeyG]

14 gauge power wire?

That is a little small, good for upto 12 amps

At the VERY smallest, your power and ground should be 8 gauge!

Actually you good with 10 gauge upto 35 amps, but bigger never ever hurts in electrical wiring.

I think this is part of your problem.

[_Nomad_]

Did not think that I needed that high of a gauge. I’ll replace it pronto and hope this fixes the problem..

Remember that your amps ground wire has to be at least the same size or larger than your power wire. Make sure that power wire is fused within 12” of the battery like Kale said; you don’t want the possibility of a crispy Vette. Since the battery is in the rear of your car with your amp you won’t need a long wire run. If you plan to put more stereo equipment in there in the future then do like Kale said and go with 4-gauge power and ground. I wouldn’t put smaller than 8-gauge on that amp; it’s always best to have some breathing room when it comes to power wire. Also, with your body style it is best to ground directly to the battery since it is such a short run to it. Ground loops will also cause amp shut down, best to just nip it all in the bud by doing this.

[BB68Vett]

In reading this post it looks like my power wire is undersized as well. I have a 10 gauge power wire for a 50W RMS amp which I am changing to an 80W RMS amp. I will go with a 4 gauge power lead.

Question, I thoght you were supposed to ground the amp to the frame versus the negative post on the battery. The instructions on the amp say to ground to the frame. Which way is better?

[TJKirby82CE]

Did you fix the problem?

[SLICKMAN]

Going to try it tonight.. I will post my findings right after that... Stay tuned!! :seeya

[_Nomad_]

Question, I thoght you were supposed to ground the amp to the frame versus the negative post on the battery. The instructions on the amp say to ground to the frame. Which way is better?

Ordinarily it is best to ground to the frame of a car. The purpose being is that a ground lead should be as short as possible. Optimally shorter than 2 feet, but that isn’t always possible. In most cars the battery is in the front of the car, and with amps in the rear of a car, that would make the ground wire much too long to run back to the battery giving the opportunity to introduce noise in the system. In that case, grounding to the frame will be a shorter ground, therefore prefered. Since the old Sharks have the battery in the rear where your amps will be, that makes for a short run for your ground wire and will share ground with the rest of the cars electrical system. I don’t think they had you Shark guys in mind when they wrote those amp instructions. :lol:

[SLICKMAN]

Well, I purchased 10 gauge wire and just hooked it up to test it. Well, it did not shut down!! It did one time at the start but not after that. I blasted the thing and almost blew my 6x9's and it did great so far. I'm going to install the wire (hot and ground) this weekend. Thanks for your help guys!! Looks like that was it!! :D :D

[Kale]

Well, I purchased 10 gauge wire and just hooked it up to test it. Well, it did not shut down!! It did one time at the start but not after that. I blasted the thing and almost blew my 6x9's and it did great so far. I'm going to install the wire (hot and ground) this weekend. Thanks for your help guys!! Looks like that was it!! :D :D

10 gauge is a little skinny, but should be ok. :cheers:

[_Nomad_]

10 gauge is a little skinny, but should be ok. :cheers:

Glad to hear it works. :cheers: