got my componnents and ready to wire, but...

[MEATHOUSE]

where did everyone sneak the 4 gauge wires from the battery to the amp/sub, and what gauge wires will I need to get the signal from the HU to the amp and to get the auto turn on for the amp??? Thanks, Justin

[MEATHOUSE]

please somebody, help
ttt...

[JoeyG]

where did everyone sneak the 4 gauge wires from the battery to the amp/sub, and what gauge wires will I need to get the signal from the HU to the amp and to get the auto turn on for the amp???
Thanks,
Justin

Pull out the battery and tray. You'll see a large gromment with lotsa wires, lube your power wires or make a small slit in the gromment opening to accomadate the amp power wires. Then fish them through the firewall. The'll pp out above and to the right of the passenger floor fuse panel. Then carefully route the wires through the interior to where your amp/s are located.

If by signal you mean rcas, then goto any stereo shop and find a nice cable set that looks quality, good construction, connectors (I'm fond of AudioBahn). Remote turn on leads are usually 16 gauge wire to accomadate more than one device. note most remote turn on leads are rated for 1 amp or less.

[Still_Single]

I ran my amp power cables through the firewall grommet that is below and behind the battery stand under the hood. (You have to remove the battery) The grommet comes out beside the blower under the passenger side of the dash - back behind the glove box. It's not easy, but wires will go through there without drilling. (Actually, I've got 4, 2 gauge wires going through there now.) Once inside the car, I ran the lines down the side of the car under the carpet. I ran it back behind the rear speakers (there's a hole back there just for running wires) and mounted a distribution block in the rear corner.

The remote power on doesn't need hardly anything - 24 guage wire would probably work, but I'd suggest stepping up to 18 or 16 guage.

The HU to AMP signal wires are a different story - Many have suggested that you want to run those down the opposite side of the car from the power lines - to prevent interference. I did so - I don't have any interference, but I'm not sure if that's the main reason. I personally don't think the expensive signal wires are worth it - but I also don't think you want the cheapest things you can find. I went with a middle of the road set of signal wires that were well shielded. I am fairly certain that if you use cheap unshielded signal wires, you're probably going to pick up some extra interference from somewhere.

Hope that helps some ... Good Luck

[_Nomad_]

where did everyone sneak the 4 gauge wires from the battery to the amp/sub, and what gauge wires will I need to get the signal from the HU to the amp and to get the auto turn on for the amp???
Thanks,
Justin

Pull out the battery and tray. You'll see a large gromment with lotsa wires, lube your power wires or make a small slit in the gromment opening to accomadate the amp power wires. Then fish them through the firewall. The'll pp out above and to the right of the passenger floor fuse panel. Then carefully route the wires through the interior to where your amp/s are located.

If by signal you mean rcas, then goto any stereo shop and find a nice cable set that looks quality, good construction, connectors (I'm fond of AudioBahn). Remote turn on leads are usually 16 gauge wire to accomadate more than one device. note most remote turn on leads are rated for 1 amp or less.

As for RCA's, as long as they are well shielded and grounded there is no need to spend a lot of money on them. Name brand isn't important here even though the audio industry will try to BS you otherwise. I just used a nice pair of twisted Rockford Fosgate RCA's because twisted makes good shielding. However there are many good RCA's on the market, just remember there is no need to pay over $25 to $30 for a pair of 17' long RCA's EVER! Anything more is just a scam. Also remember to run the RCA’s and speaker wires on the opposite side of the car from the power wire to reduce the odds of introducing noise into the signal.

BTW. Not sure if it applies in your case but if you plan to run more than two devices off the remote turn on you will need a relay.

[JSW]

I ran my amp power cables through the firewall grommet that is below and behind the battery stand under the hood.

Same here. The one piece of advice that I'll add is to not try to push your 4 gauge wires through. Push a much smaller, preferably solid, wire through, then tape your larger wire to it, then pull it through with the small wire. I thought doing that would be obvious, but after watching a friend that was trying to help me, maybe it isn't.

[MEATHOUSE]

The remote power on doesn't need hardly anything - 24 guage wire would probably work, but I'd suggest stepping up to 18 or 16 guage.

The HU to AMP signal wires are a different story - Many have suggested that you want to run those down the opposite side of the car from the power lines - to prevent interference. I did so - I don't have any interference, but I'm not sure if that's the main reason. I personally don't think the expensive signal wires are worth it - but I also don't think you want the cheapest things you can find. I went with a middle of the road set of signal wires that were well shielded. I am fairly certain that if you use cheap unshielded signal wires, you're probably going to pick up some extra interference from somewhere.

Hope that helps some ... Good Luck

Question, doesn't the remote power on come from the back of the head unit?? if not where do you ge tthat signal from???

Question 2, when you ran them on the other side of the car, did you first tunnel it through the center consol by the shifter ?? how did you get from back of HU around the drivers seat and against the opposite side of the car???

Everyone, i can't thank you enough, you ahve helped me so much, and I not only saved a lot of $$, but feel such accomplishment when i install something myself, i love it. I almost always like to have a project going on just to enjoy that. :D

[_Nomad_]

Question, doesn't the remote power on come from the back of the head unit?? if not where do you ge tthat signal from???

Yes, the remote turn on comes from the HU, you tap into the aftermarket harness to access it.

Question 2, when you ran them on the other side of the car, did you first tunnel it through the center consol by the shifter ?? how did you get from back of HU around the drivers seat and against the opposite side of the car???

Do you mean the RCA's and speaker wires? Well, you could go through the center console tunnel but it isn’t necessary, actually, it would probably be a little more difficult since you would have to remove more interior pieces than if you ran the RCA’s and speaker wires down the driver side.
To run your RCA’s and speaker wires down the driver side, simply remove the hush panel and run the cables and wires under it, just like you will be doing on the passenger side with your power and REM wires. Then, under the doorsills and carpet (between seat and doorsill) till you reach the rear section of the car. Depending on where your amp is located will obviously determine where you run the RCA’s from there. I put all my wires and cable in loom conduit to prevent chaffing or accidental crimping of anything.

Good luck.

[MY2K2C5]

I did as most have said. I ran the interconnects down the drivers side and the power down the passenger side. I used 2 AWG and didn't have a problem putting it through the firewall. I then ran it along the side under the door sill piece. Once you have all of the plastic pieces removed it is alot easier to do the work. Here is a shot of where I grounded the amps. This is the spot behind the passenger side seat.
[img]http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0UgBpZVIbrE0UVh3hM8Eg5ZkhN3PxFpTj3rCgUJL 6nioMSZwpz3g6avb4U!ho8XlSXkhpaDd*NQYxsO2 ue823IAX3HgH5yo4WgRVQB2jZcHaTavOeHtEKJdD kEuVPiNmM/Car-Stereo-Installation-Pics-011.jpg[/img]

Here is a shot of the interconnects in the space where the HU will go. If you look closely at the spot just above and to the left of the gear shift knob you will see that I ran the interconnects along the space under the steering column and I zip tied them at 90 deg. angles to the power wiring in the column and then ran them down and back along the drivers side.


You will have a very short run for the ground. Only two power wires to run down the passenger side... Positive and remote wire. :)


[Modified by MY2K2C5, 7:53 AM 9/19/2002]