Need an amplifier recommendation.
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Need an amplifier recommendation.
I am looking for a 5 channel amp that will be inexpensive to go in a C6 coupe.
It needs to be able to power a set of C2-350x and C2-525x and 1- JL 10w3v3.
Any suggestions from the auction site that is compact and reliable I can get? Can be used too.
It needs to be able to power a set of C2-350x and C2-525x and 1- JL 10w3v3.
Any suggestions from the auction site that is compact and reliable I can get? Can be used too.
#2
Team Owner
Maybe not cheap but won't break the bank and you'll d getting a very good amp, that puts out rated, clean power and then some all day long for many years. Has a good split for what you want to use it for. JL 700/5.
#7
Race Director
you can get a used 500/5 1st gen around that money
or a 300/4 and run the mids/tweets off the front two channels
i just picked up a 300/4v2 from a guy on CL last night for 200
have it on a pair of 6.5" c2 components and an 8w3v3
really solid amp, fits under a c5 seat and is really decent for SQ
bit light for a 10w3 but not a lot, you could always upgrade to a dedicated sub amp later
or a 300/4 and run the mids/tweets off the front two channels
i just picked up a 300/4v2 from a guy on CL last night for 200
have it on a pair of 6.5" c2 components and an 8w3v3
really solid amp, fits under a c5 seat and is really decent for SQ
bit light for a 10w3 but not a lot, you could always upgrade to a dedicated sub amp later
#8
Drifting
Thread Starter
So these are the specs for the PN5.
•RMS Power Rating:
◦4 ohms: 60 watts x 4 chan. + 200 watts
◦2 ohms: 80 watts x 4 chan. + 350 watts
◦4 ohms, Bridged: 160 x 2 chan. + 350 watts
So if I get a 10w3v3 - 4ohm, what would be the best way to run that amp? Excuse me, I'm not very knowledgeable on this stuff. If I do bridged for the front and mid C2's at 160rms, will that be too much and the 10w3 would be at the full 300rms? Or, if I do the 60x4 and 200 will that be under powering the 10w3 with it's 300rms?
•RMS Power Rating:
◦4 ohms: 60 watts x 4 chan. + 200 watts
◦2 ohms: 80 watts x 4 chan. + 350 watts
◦4 ohms, Bridged: 160 x 2 chan. + 350 watts
So if I get a 10w3v3 - 4ohm, what would be the best way to run that amp? Excuse me, I'm not very knowledgeable on this stuff. If I do bridged for the front and mid C2's at 160rms, will that be too much and the 10w3 would be at the full 300rms? Or, if I do the 60x4 and 200 will that be under powering the 10w3 with it's 300rms?
#9
Tech Contributor
From what it looks like you're trying to do, I think you're doing it wrong.
If you want to go all out with all new speakers/amp/sub, then you wouldn't want to replace just the 3.5's in the doors. Remove everything and replace with 6.5" components.
Best bang for your buck would be components in the doors, a sub in trunk, and a bridged 4-channel amp to power everything. If you want the rear fill you can use HU internal amp (or stock) with oem speakers.
Just as an example: Polk db6501 components for $140, Power Acoustic BAMF1600/4D amp for $140, and the 10w3v3-4 you planned on would work out well.
If you want to go all out with all new speakers/amp/sub, then you wouldn't want to replace just the 3.5's in the doors. Remove everything and replace with 6.5" components.
Best bang for your buck would be components in the doors, a sub in trunk, and a bridged 4-channel amp to power everything. If you want the rear fill you can use HU internal amp (or stock) with oem speakers.
Just as an example: Polk db6501 components for $140, Power Acoustic BAMF1600/4D amp for $140, and the 10w3v3-4 you planned on would work out well.
#10
Drifting
Thread Starter
From what it looks like you're trying to do, I think you're doing it wrong.
If you want to go all out with all new speakers/amp/sub, then you wouldn't want to replace just the 3.5's in the doors. Remove everything and replace with 6.5" components.
Best bang for your buck would be components in the doors, a sub in trunk, and a bridged 4-channel amp to power everything. If you want the rear fill you can use HU internal amp (or stock) with oem speakers.
Just as an example: Polk db6501 components for $140, Power Acoustic BAMF1600/4D amp for $140, and the 10w3v3-4 you planned on would work out well.
If you want to go all out with all new speakers/amp/sub, then you wouldn't want to replace just the 3.5's in the doors. Remove everything and replace with 6.5" components.
Best bang for your buck would be components in the doors, a sub in trunk, and a bridged 4-channel amp to power everything. If you want the rear fill you can use HU internal amp (or stock) with oem speakers.
Just as an example: Polk db6501 components for $140, Power Acoustic BAMF1600/4D amp for $140, and the 10w3v3-4 you planned on would work out well.
#11
Tech Contributor
If you're installing a real sub in the trunk and amping the rest of the speakers, the door subs become obsolete. Also, 3.5's can only do so much, and they can't take that much power before they start to distort.
Well powered components in the doors and a properly powered sub in the trunk are plenty in a vette, but if you still like the rears you can use a 5-channel amp to have them get loud, or just use the HU internal amp or the oem amp to power them for some fill. Buying new coax for the back will give you better highs, but the components will be giving you plenty already, so the stock speakers will do fine if you use internal or oem amp. If you go with 5-channel amp then you'll need new rear speakers that can handle the power.
#12
Former Vendor
1- Kicker CVT Driver or Passenger Side Box coupe box half the price of a JL 10w3 box
1- Alpine SPS610C Conomponents
1- speaker baffles for door speakers
1- KEnwood 700/5 5 channel amp
shipping
total shipped 575.00
all instock as well
1- Alpine SPS610C Conomponents
1- speaker baffles for door speakers
1- KEnwood 700/5 5 channel amp
shipping
total shipped 575.00
all instock as well
#13
Race Director
So these are the specs for the PN5.
•RMS Power Rating:
◦4 ohms: 60 watts x 4 chan. + 200 watts
◦2 ohms: 80 watts x 4 chan. + 350 watts
◦4 ohms, Bridged: 160 x 2 chan. + 350 watts
So if I get a 10w3v3 - 4ohm, what would be the best way to run that amp? Excuse me, I'm not very knowledgeable on this stuff. If I do bridged for the front and mid C2's at 160rms, will that be too much and the 10w3 would be at the full 300rms? Or, if I do the 60x4 and 200 will that be under powering the 10w3 with it's 300rms?
•RMS Power Rating:
◦4 ohms: 60 watts x 4 chan. + 200 watts
◦2 ohms: 80 watts x 4 chan. + 350 watts
◦4 ohms, Bridged: 160 x 2 chan. + 350 watts
So if I get a 10w3v3 - 4ohm, what would be the best way to run that amp? Excuse me, I'm not very knowledgeable on this stuff. If I do bridged for the front and mid C2's at 160rms, will that be too much and the 10w3 would be at the full 300rms? Or, if I do the 60x4 and 200 will that be under powering the 10w3 with it's 300rms?
#14
From what it looks like you're trying to do, I think you're doing it wrong.
If you want to go all out with all new speakers/amp/sub, then you wouldn't want to replace just the 3.5's in the doors. Remove everything and replace with 6.5" components.
Best bang for your buck would be components in the doors, a sub in trunk, and a bridged 4-channel amp to power everything. If you want the rear fill you can use HU internal amp (or stock) with oem speakers.
Just as an example: Polk db6501 components for $140, Power Acoustic BAMF1600/4D amp for $140, and the 10w3v3-4 you planned on would work out well.
If you want to go all out with all new speakers/amp/sub, then you wouldn't want to replace just the 3.5's in the doors. Remove everything and replace with 6.5" components.
Best bang for your buck would be components in the doors, a sub in trunk, and a bridged 4-channel amp to power everything. If you want the rear fill you can use HU internal amp (or stock) with oem speakers.
Just as an example: Polk db6501 components for $140, Power Acoustic BAMF1600/4D amp for $140, and the 10w3v3-4 you planned on would work out well.
#15
Burning Brakes
This is what I did based on Mark's similar advice a year ago. Except I used that JL 3-channel amp and put it in the right cubby. It powers the sub in the other cubby as well as the components in the doors. The coaxes in the rear are powered by the HU. I pulled all the Bose stuff out. Sound is unbelievable.
I orig had pioneer HU, and kicker DS IN DOOR panel's - Then i updated and added polk 6501 and amp, And wow was i happy i did...
#16
Burning Brakes
And also, i did have a pioneer amp hiding behind my water fall in my convertable, but ended up with a sweet sounding Boston Acoustic GT42.4.. Was a little big [long] but layed it in behind water fall area.
Now i just changed that out and got me a five channel amp [ new/old stock ] HELIX , Darkblue 5..- Great deal i couldnt pass up. $ 249.00 - Its not the greatest looking amp, but who care's wanted sound and build quality...And you hardly see it in my 06 convertable.. Here's a link to it for,
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HELIX-DARK-BLUE-5-AUDIOTEC-FISCHER-5-CH-1840W-COMPONENT-SPEAKERS-SUB-AMPLIFIER-/131192199192?pt=Car_Amplifiers&hash=item1e8baa1818&vxp=mtr
Now i just changed that out and got me a five channel amp [ new/old stock ] HELIX , Darkblue 5..- Great deal i couldnt pass up. $ 249.00 - Its not the greatest looking amp, but who care's wanted sound and build quality...And you hardly see it in my 06 convertable.. Here's a link to it for,
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HELIX-DARK-BLUE-5-AUDIOTEC-FISCHER-5-CH-1840W-COMPONENT-SPEAKERS-SUB-AMPLIFIER-/131192199192?pt=Car_Amplifiers&hash=item1e8baa1818&vxp=mtr
Last edited by carls2004; 07-17-2014 at 07:37 PM. Reason: more info
#17
Drifting
Thread Starter
Thanks for the suggestions. I think i'm going the component route and forgetting the rears. I want to be able to replace the stock Bose amp have one that fits in that location or the driver's cubby. I don't want to deal with mounting it somewhere other than those two places. Just simple and easily removable if I don't keep the car.
Will the PN5 be enough for the 1 set of c2 650 and 1 10w3v3 4 in the bridged configuration listed? Bridged: 160 watts x 2 chan. + 350 watts or do I really need something as powerful as that Power Acoustik?
Pretty much, yes.
If you're installing a real sub in the trunk and amping the rest of the speakers, the door subs become obsolete. Also, 3.5's can only do so much, and they can't take that much power before they start to distort.
Well powered components in the doors and a properly powered sub in the trunk are plenty in a vette, but if you still like the rears you can use a 5-channel amp to have them get loud, or just use the HU internal amp or the oem amp to power them for some fill. Buying new coax for the back will give you better highs, but the components will be giving you plenty already, so the stock speakers will do fine if you use internal or oem amp. If you go with 5-channel amp then you'll need new rear speakers that can handle the power.
If you're installing a real sub in the trunk and amping the rest of the speakers, the door subs become obsolete. Also, 3.5's can only do so much, and they can't take that much power before they start to distort.
Well powered components in the doors and a properly powered sub in the trunk are plenty in a vette, but if you still like the rears you can use a 5-channel amp to have them get loud, or just use the HU internal amp or the oem amp to power them for some fill. Buying new coax for the back will give you better highs, but the components will be giving you plenty already, so the stock speakers will do fine if you use internal or oem amp. If you go with 5-channel amp then you'll need new rear speakers that can handle the power.
you turn a 4ch amp into a 3ch amp. bridge two channels for a sub and the other 2 go to your left and right. you also really want a component set in the doors. jl audio c2 or morel maximo are both like $140 shipped via ebay for 6.5" components. that amp power also would also be better suited to an 8" than a 10. also, if you're looking at the w3 subs, the w3v3 are a lot better than the v1 and v2. i would rather have a kicker cvr or re audio sub than a v1 or v2
Last edited by EMINENT 1; 07-26-2014 at 10:40 PM.
#18
Burning Brakes
After looking at spec's. and all.. I would go with the Power Acoustik, over the PN5..
As for where to mount, not sure on orig amp location and how much room there, and keeping it cool.
As for where to mount, not sure on orig amp location and how much room there, and keeping it cool.
#19
Race Director
what i would recommend if i was you are one of the following
1. if you use a 10w3v3 in the rear change the front components to something with some output like the morel tempo 6 components. these have a better top end than the c2 and produce more spl by a long shot
2. if you like the sound of the c2 also get 5.25" c2 coaxes for the rear, this may still be bass heavy if you use a 10 for a sub but could be adjusted down, an 8 would provide enough fill
3. if you use just the c2 front components you won't really have a system that gets very loud, but it won't sound half bad provided you blend the sub. a pair of 6w3v3's would be ideal for using just c2 component fronts. a single 8 maybe. i actually used a single 6w3v3 with the c2 components when i started out and it was a fairly balanced system. just didn't have a lot of output. a pair of 6w3s also would fit in the side cubbys and let you keep your center storage space
most people tend to oversub cars, bass is easy to get in autos, it's the mids and highs that take talent to get right
if i had it to do over again i would use the morel tempo 6 in the doors rather than the c2's, it's not that the c2s are bad, they sound pretty decent, they just don't produce a lot of volume and can't handle much power if you cross them over at 80hz. the c2 components are around 170 bucks and the morel tempo 6 components are 250ish. not a huge difference in price either. a seller in isreal via even even has the tempo 6 for 199 shipped. not sure how reliable the mail is from isreal with the current politics though
Last edited by racebum; 07-27-2014 at 05:06 PM.
#20
Drifting
Thread Starter
this is a bit of a mismatched combo in the speaker dept. the c2 components, which i actually have in my z06 are fairly quiet. not a lot of output. currently i have a JL audio 300/4 amp running the front two channels on the c2 components AND morel tempo 5.25s in the rear. you can't fade front to rear this way but you can build resistor networks to control power to the rear which we won't get into with this reply. basically it's a way to fade multiple speakers on the same channel. i also have a single 8w3v3 in the back in .35cu/ft sealed. it's not bad after playing with it. with just the c2 components there was too much sub and this is just an 8 mind you. as for your power question, you really don't "need" a lot of power, you just want a clean amp and enough to drive without clipping {distorting}
what i would recommend if i was you are one of the following
1. if you use a 10w3v3 in the rear change the front components to something with some output like the morel tempo 6 components. these have a better top end than the c2 and produce more spl by a long shot
2. if you like the sound of the c2 also get 5.25" c2 coaxes for the rear, this may still be bass heavy if you use a 10 for a sub but could be adjusted down, an 8 would provide enough fill
3. if you use just the c2 front components you won't really have a system that gets very loud, but it won't sound half bad provided you blend the sub. a pair of 6w3v3's would be ideal for using just c2 component fronts. a single 8 maybe. i actually used a single 6w3v3 with the c2 components when i started out and it was a fairly balanced system. just didn't have a lot of output. a pair of 6w3s also would fit in the side cubbys and let you keep your center storage space
most people tend to oversub cars, bass is easy to get in autos, it's the mids and highs that take talent to get right
if i had it to do over again i would use the morel tempo 6 in the doors rather than the c2's, it's not that the c2s are bad, they sound pretty decent, they just don't produce a lot of volume and can't handle much power if you cross them over at 80hz. the c2 components are around 170 bucks and the morel tempo 6 components are 250ish. not a huge difference in price either. a seller in isreal via even even has the tempo 6 for 199 shipped. not sure how reliable the mail is from isreal with the current politics though
what i would recommend if i was you are one of the following
1. if you use a 10w3v3 in the rear change the front components to something with some output like the morel tempo 6 components. these have a better top end than the c2 and produce more spl by a long shot
2. if you like the sound of the c2 also get 5.25" c2 coaxes for the rear, this may still be bass heavy if you use a 10 for a sub but could be adjusted down, an 8 would provide enough fill
3. if you use just the c2 front components you won't really have a system that gets very loud, but it won't sound half bad provided you blend the sub. a pair of 6w3v3's would be ideal for using just c2 component fronts. a single 8 maybe. i actually used a single 6w3v3 with the c2 components when i started out and it was a fairly balanced system. just didn't have a lot of output. a pair of 6w3s also would fit in the side cubbys and let you keep your center storage space
most people tend to oversub cars, bass is easy to get in autos, it's the mids and highs that take talent to get right
if i had it to do over again i would use the morel tempo 6 in the doors rather than the c2's, it's not that the c2s are bad, they sound pretty decent, they just don't produce a lot of volume and can't handle much power if you cross them over at 80hz. the c2 components are around 170 bucks and the morel tempo 6 components are 250ish. not a huge difference in price either. a seller in isreal via even even has the tempo 6 for 199 shipped. not sure how reliable the mail is from isreal with the current politics though
What about the amp?