SOUND DEADENING & STEREO INSTALL (step-by-step):
06-03-2012, 12:44 PM
#41
Former Vendor
Don't wait, I've had my door panels off 6 times in the past year and forget to put the insulation on every time 
Been sitting in my garage for over a year now lol.
Been sitting in my garage for over a year now lol.
06-03-2012, 12:48 PM
#42
Supporting Vendor
Member Since: Sep 2007
Location: Pensacola Florida GO GATORS!!! www.rlsebring.com www.c6c7vette.com
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St. Jude Donor '17
Too late, Same here... Mines been in the garage about a year too. I just wanted to get everything did at once while the car is apart. I have a stack of stuff that I probably don't have the time to do now but deadening and subs are priority.
Maybe I should come over and we'll have a MOD party. Ump, gotta go, headlights & foglight baking today. YUM.
Maybe I should come over and we'll have a MOD party. Ump, gotta go, headlights & foglight baking today. YUM.
Last edited by RLSebring; 06-03-2012 at 01:15 PM.
06-03-2012, 07:54 PM
#43
Intermediate
Member Since: Feb 2012
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Yes I did the doors. Aside from the scary initial yanking and cracking sounds those fasteners make it wasn't that hard. Most difficult part is the first time taking the panel off and then hanging it right on the installation.
06-07-2012, 09:06 AM
#45
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
06-07-2012, 11:38 PM
#47
Former Vendor
06-12-2012, 10:54 AM
#48
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Guessing was quoting Apsis?
06-23-2012, 12:39 PM
#49
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Another update ...
As I posted before, I bought a pair of pillars with Focal tweets molded in, which left me with the extra pair of Focal tweets I had initially surface mounted. Extra tweets = extra highs, right, so where could I use some extra highs (legally that is)? Well, the rear components were a bit mid-heavy due to them being behind the seats ... so that's where I decided to put them. I patched them in to the Focal crossover blocks and installed them on the opposite side of each 5.25" speaker.
Photos show B&A, it's not a huge difference but does help somewhat and doesn't seem to tax the amp any more than before. AND NOW I HAVE 16 TOTAL SPEAKERS ... Pillar tweet, Door tweet, Upper-door mid, Lower-door mid, Rear mid, 2 Rear tweets, and Sub = 8 on each side x 2 = 16!!!
So what do you think?
Photos show B&A, it's not a huge difference but does help somewhat and doesn't seem to tax the amp any more than before. AND NOW I HAVE 16 TOTAL SPEAKERS ... Pillar tweet, Door tweet, Upper-door mid, Lower-door mid, Rear mid, 2 Rear tweets, and Sub = 8 on each side x 2 = 16!!!
So what do you think?
06-23-2012, 05:11 PM
#51
Former Vendor
I'll have to make a special trip out there just to hear that system.
06-24-2012, 11:18 AM
#52
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Stop by anytime Mark or Andrew, and Andrew -bring some DSV goodies with you (door skins, new dash, tunnel drapes, bezels or whatever you might have on you!!!).
I still have not done a proper system tune-up with my RTA & SA, but will eventually get around to it (I still need to properly adjust the Arc amp gains, XO's and levels ... but dang it, I'm tired of taking it all apart every other week)
I still have not done a proper system tune-up with my RTA & SA, but will eventually get around to it (I still need to properly adjust the Arc amp gains, XO's and levels ... but dang it, I'm tired of taking it all apart every other week)
11-14-2012, 02:30 AM
#54
Racer
Holy Smokes!
Great job and great job documenting.
I need to know...where did you get that steering wheel? I have a 98 and hate the factory wheel. It's so big that it should be on a bus.
Thanks
Great job and great job documenting.
I need to know...where did you get that steering wheel? I have a 98 and hate the factory wheel. It's so big that it should be on a bus.
Thanks
12-03-2012, 11:26 AM
#55
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
dsv, get one of several models, go direct to dsv or through andrew6 who can give you all the options ...
12-20-2012, 12:18 AM
#56
Supporting Vendor
Member Since: Sep 2007
Location: Pensacola Florida GO GATORS!!! www.rlsebring.com www.c6c7vette.com
Posts: 11,216
Received 174 Likes
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St. Jude Donor '17
Too late, Same here... Mines been in the garage about a year too. I just wanted to get everything did at once while the car is apart. I have a stack of stuff that I probably don't have the time to do now but deadening and subs are priority.
Maybe I should come over and we'll have a MOD party. Ump, gotta go, headlights & foglight baking today. YUM.
Maybe I should come over and we'll have a MOD party. Ump, gotta go, headlights & foglight baking today. YUM.
08-14-2015, 11:33 AM
#57
But as when I did a total brake replacement (new rotors, calipers, lines and all) and had done zero mechanical stuff until then, it's all in the prep, planning, research and reference ...
08-14-2015, 12:00 PM
#58
Great install!
1) Doing the deadening in a convertible was a real pita, as access is difficult with the top either up or down. This would be SO MUCH EASIER on a coupe.
2) The install took me five weeks (Dec. 28 - Feb. 2), but if you worked non-stop you could do it in maybe three or four days depending on your preparation.
3) The three layers of deadening really puffed-up the inside. I had a tough time re-installing every piece of carpet, especially the rear wall, partition area and sill-trim (photo shows BXTII, Mamo Ensolite, RAAM Ensolite & Heat Shield). I had to remove some stock carpet padding in several places. The passenger seat has a tough time going all the way back now due to it pressing against the side-tunnel.
4) The sound deadening difference is incredible. My wife is amazed at how quiet it is now. Just shutting the doors is a noticeable improvement and has a really solid sound.
5) I broke four door-panel pins, but had a box of each type on hand.
6) The two amps fit perfectly in the passenger foot-well. This was a great location, though fitting all the wires in there was tough.
7) The two 10" subs and fiberglass sub-pods ARE NOT overkill, the lows sound nice and balanced even with the top down, but I have almost no trunk room now, not that I really need it.
8) I removed the gauge cluster so I could put the Matrix in there to the right, and route the left speaker wires behind it, but you could route them under the cluster instead.
9) I think the stereo sounds far better with the rear-speakers.
10) I switched the front & rear outs at the HU-Matrix connection, to move the chimes & bluetooth/OnStar sounds from the front left door speaker to the rear left one. Initially those sounds out of the front speaker were four times as loud due to the Matrix line-driver signal boost. Thus the HU fader control is reversed, but that's no big deal.
11) I did not need the ground-loop isolators for the signal-outs or antenna.
12) Playing the stereo at a fairly loud volume with the engine not running will kill the battery in 15 minutes, so get a battery booster if you plan to play it at shows or meets, or leave the car running!
13) I initially cut my RCA signal wires to perfect lengths and soldered on new connectors ... BAD IDEA. Three of the cables FAILED due to the fact the wires are 24 gauge or smaller, and easily break free at the solder. Be sure to buy high-quality twisted cables with molded plugs as needed.
14) I powered my Valentine-One by splicing into the heated-seat circuit (HTD SEAT/WPR RLY) which only comes on when the engine is running (I also have my NPP switch partially powered here).
15) I should have mounted the DQXS as low as possible behind the passenger seat, so there was a touch more room to move the seat all the way back & recline. I may re-mount that later ...
2) The install took me five weeks (Dec. 28 - Feb. 2), but if you worked non-stop you could do it in maybe three or four days depending on your preparation.
3) The three layers of deadening really puffed-up the inside. I had a tough time re-installing every piece of carpet, especially the rear wall, partition area and sill-trim (photo shows BXTII, Mamo Ensolite, RAAM Ensolite & Heat Shield). I had to remove some stock carpet padding in several places. The passenger seat has a tough time going all the way back now due to it pressing against the side-tunnel.
4) The sound deadening difference is incredible. My wife is amazed at how quiet it is now. Just shutting the doors is a noticeable improvement and has a really solid sound.
5) I broke four door-panel pins, but had a box of each type on hand.
6) The two amps fit perfectly in the passenger foot-well. This was a great location, though fitting all the wires in there was tough.
7) The two 10" subs and fiberglass sub-pods ARE NOT overkill, the lows sound nice and balanced even with the top down, but I have almost no trunk room now, not that I really need it.
8) I removed the gauge cluster so I could put the Matrix in there to the right, and route the left speaker wires behind it, but you could route them under the cluster instead.
9) I think the stereo sounds far better with the rear-speakers.
10) I switched the front & rear outs at the HU-Matrix connection, to move the chimes & bluetooth/OnStar sounds from the front left door speaker to the rear left one. Initially those sounds out of the front speaker were four times as loud due to the Matrix line-driver signal boost. Thus the HU fader control is reversed, but that's no big deal.
11) I did not need the ground-loop isolators for the signal-outs or antenna.
12) Playing the stereo at a fairly loud volume with the engine not running will kill the battery in 15 minutes, so get a battery booster if you plan to play it at shows or meets, or leave the car running!
13) I initially cut my RCA signal wires to perfect lengths and soldered on new connectors ... BAD IDEA. Three of the cables FAILED due to the fact the wires are 24 gauge or smaller, and easily break free at the solder. Be sure to buy high-quality twisted cables with molded plugs as needed.
14) I powered my Valentine-One by splicing into the heated-seat circuit (HTD SEAT/WPR RLY) which only comes on when the engine is running (I also have my NPP switch partially powered here).
15) I should have mounted the DQXS as low as possible behind the passenger seat, so there was a touch more room to move the seat all the way back & recline. I may re-mount that later ...
I found a honest hardworking technician in a neighboring small town of Kinston NC that I finally trusted. We worked on my C6 convertible for weeks.
It was hard to see my Vette being completely disassembled beyond recognition. My friend Jeremy, was very careful. We did basically everything that you did and snapped away plenty of pictures, but not to the detail you have done. You have made this much more understandable for many in the future who take the time for the best sound possible!
Immediately after the install, my son drove the car and he remarked, "Dad...did you put on different tires?" I asked why. My son said, "the Vette is more quiet and I can't hear any road noises!" I explained what I had done. The sound compared to BOSE was night and day different! as well! Many were impressed, but others said, "What was wrong with the BOSE?" Ha!
Oh, we also had two of the same issues you did after doing the doors. We had to trim back a little of the foam BXT between doors and panels. We broke a plastic door anchor that cost $45.00 from GM. A simple anchor! Also the carpet fitment around the passenger side consol. It left a small gap.
I could not give my trunk space away, due my wife's needs. So we used JL Stealth enclosures behind the head rests with genuine Image Dynamic subs in the two units. Not near as great as a 10" or 12" JL in the trunk, but much better than stock.
Thanks again for the write-up!
Last edited by Tarheels1; 08-14-2015 at 12:27 PM.
08-14-2015, 12:33 PM
#59
Thanks to Rick McCallum at RAAM
I fully did my home work and research before we did my C6 at the time. Thanks to Rick McCallum at RAAM for the insight on the deadening strategies on the car and ideas about keeping our performance cars as light as possible!!
