Got bored.. Decided I needed a bigger system...
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Got bored.. Decided I needed a bigger system...Lots of PICS!!
Well... I installed some Boston G510's in my Dodge Ram using their GTR radiators and I'm quite impressed with the sound quality and output from the 10's with 900 watts of power. So... I decided to give the big SPG-555 a try in the vette..... With 1400 watts... Haven't got it installed yet, but I also got to try my hand at fiberglass contours on this one. More to come, but here are a few pics..
Last edited by thmupr; 01-30-2012 at 10:22 PM. Reason: Pics...
#4
That is gonna be a tremendous amount of bass. I ended p putting a g3 12 in my c6 and it barely fit. I don't think I could even fit one of the SPG's in my car. Let me know how it sounds.
#5
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I finally got to hear this setup this past weekend. It slams! I got a lot of finishing to do as far as trim work, and I need to replace my waterfall carpet because it just has not shape left.. Now on to the doors and to add the compression horns
#7
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Finally got this sub playing well, and damn will it pound! I have a tremendous amount to "punch" and my interior is gonna need some serious tightening to keep rattles in check. I've got horns and new 8's for the doors so I can try to keep up with this sub. I gotta say, Boston did their homework on these!
#9
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=295-610
The horns are USD's, but the part number slips my mind right now.. They are NOS units that I got off eBay a few years back.
#10
Melting Slicks
Nice... I've got some of these Dayton Audio RS180-4 7" drivers that I was thinking about using in mine.
I bought a used set of USD's years ago, but never installed them in anything. I figured it might be fun to put them in and tune it using a JBL MS-8.
I've been kinda lazy about getting started though...
I bought a used set of USD's years ago, but never installed them in anything. I figured it might be fun to put them in and tune it using a JBL MS-8.
I've been kinda lazy about getting started though...
#11
Nice... I've got some of these Dayton Audio RS180-4 7" drivers that I was thinking about using in mine.
...using a JBL MS-8.
...using a JBL MS-8.
I also ran the MS-8 with the planar/RS180 combo (and some rear 5 1/4" coax's and a 3" full range center) in 5.1 mode, but switched back to standard satellite/sub arrangement using only my Alpine's DSP/outputs instead. The 5.1 is a neat parlor trick, but I ended up prefering the sound of the conventional system.
#12
Melting Slicks
With apologies to Thmupr in advance for the thread hijack...
Neo3's?
I've heard that the USD's might need a little help on the top end, so I'm considering a set of tweeters in the a-pillars or the stock door locations. I saw a guy over on DIYMA that is using a set of Neo10's in the a-pillars... that's insane. (...and very cool, I might add. )
So how do you like the planar drivers in the car? I have a set in my home speakers that sound great, and I wondered how they would sound in an automotive environment.
I'm not familiar enough with the MS-8 to know the different settings... but I keep hearing about this "Logic7" thing and I'm interested in what it does.
I'm also curious to see what the 'change' will be using the stock B(l)ose system and just adding the MS-8 into the mix. (Clearly as an experiment... I don't plan on keeping the stock drivers.) I have bought the GM style connectors that go between the HU and the factory amp, as well as the amp and the bass amps and remaining speakers. I'd like to see if I can make it a 'plug and play' system.
I'm going to see if I can use the MS-8 to accept the inputs from the HU, then direct the output from the MS-8 to the inputs of the amplifier(s). While I may not be able to adjust the low pass point of the door subs or the high pass point for the mids, I'd be able to adjust the EQ and TA and see if any improvement can be made. I may have to use the MS-8's internal amp to drive the center channel, or opt to run a small external amp for that duty.
We'll see what happens...
I've heard that the USD's might need a little help on the top end, so I'm considering a set of tweeters in the a-pillars or the stock door locations. I saw a guy over on DIYMA that is using a set of Neo10's in the a-pillars... that's insane. (...and very cool, I might add. )
So how do you like the planar drivers in the car? I have a set in my home speakers that sound great, and I wondered how they would sound in an automotive environment.
I also ran the MS-8 with the planar/RS180 combo (and some rear 5 1/4" coax's and a 3" full range center) in 5.1 mode, but switched back to standard satellite/sub arrangement using only my Alpine's DSP/outputs instead. The 5.1 is a neat parlor trick, but I ended up prefering the sound of the conventional system.
I'm also curious to see what the 'change' will be using the stock B(l)ose system and just adding the MS-8 into the mix. (Clearly as an experiment... I don't plan on keeping the stock drivers.) I have bought the GM style connectors that go between the HU and the factory amp, as well as the amp and the bass amps and remaining speakers. I'd like to see if I can make it a 'plug and play' system.
I'm going to see if I can use the MS-8 to accept the inputs from the HU, then direct the output from the MS-8 to the inputs of the amplifier(s). While I may not be able to adjust the low pass point of the door subs or the high pass point for the mids, I'd be able to adjust the EQ and TA and see if any improvement can be made. I may have to use the MS-8's internal amp to drive the center channel, or opt to run a small external amp for that duty.
We'll see what happens...
#13
Melting Slicks
Is this a sub and a passive radiator? I took a look at those subs after checking out your system... those things look sick. I like that you can swap out the voice coil independently from the cone and basket. While they aren't cheap by any means ($500 each is the cheapest I have seen them) they are different and look really cool to me.
#14
Yes, NEO3PDR's with the wider dispersion pattern. They work surprisingly well in the car. I'm running just these plus the 7" mids up front and a single 10" sub and the overall balance is really good. It definitely benefits from having some EQ capability in the head unit, but I don't really miss the horns now. Top end extension is brighter with the planars and voice are *almost* as clean as they were with the HLCDs. Center image was rock solid with the horns, but left-right separation (stage width) was never really as distinct as you get with conventional or planar tweets. I found I preferred a bit more stage width over the locked-in center, but that's just me.
I don't know that I could justify all the work to integrate the MS-8 into a Bose system/speakers just for ***** and giggles. I already have enough science projects brewing on the fuel injection side, so my audio projects tend to just get straight to the point once I've researched a solution. The MS-8 is collecting dust on my bench right now.
I'm also curious to see what the 'change' will be using the stock B(l)ose system and just adding the MS-8 into the mix. (Clearly as an experiment... I don't plan on keeping the stock drivers.)
#15
Melting Slicks
Yes, NEO3PDR's with the wider dispersion pattern. They work surprisingly well in the car. I'm running just these plus the 7" mids up front and a single 10" sub and the overall balance is really good. It definitely benefits from having some EQ capability in the head unit, but I don't really miss the horns now. Top end extension is brighter with the planars and voice are *almost* as clean as they were with the HLCDs. Center image was rock solid with the horns, but left-right separation (stage width) was never really as distinct as you get with conventional or planar tweets. I found I preferred a bit more stage width over the locked-in center, but that's just me.
I have four of the 7" drivers that I used for a simple MTM project shown here:
I designed and built the cabinets based on the TS parameters, and I was surprised at the low-end extension that two of those drivers had with a tuned (ported) enclosure. I was considering a new design using four of those drivers on each side and a decent tweeter that could keep up with them... perhaps the Neo3 would be a good choice in something like that, too. I'll have to check them out.
I don't know that I could justify all the work to integrate the MS-8 into a Bose system/speakers just for ***** and giggles. I already have enough science projects brewing on the fuel injection side, so my audio projects tend to just get straight to the point once I've researched a solution. The MS-8 is collecting dust on my bench right now.
So what's the story regarding the fuel injection stuff? Is this a business venture or are you looking to do a conversion or something?
#16
The "fuel injection stuff" is what pays for the Corvette. The stereos are just for fun, I take the EFI part seriously. Google my business and it should be self-explanatory.
#17
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Is this a sub and a passive radiator? I took a look at those subs after checking out your system... those things look sick. I like that you can swap out the voice coil independently from the cone and basket. While they aren't cheap by any means ($500 each is the cheapest I have seen them) they are different and look really cool to me.
#18
Melting Slicks
The "fuel injection stuff" is what pays for the Corvette. The stereos are just for fun, I take the EFI part seriously. Google my business and it should be self-explanatory.
I saw your name and I didn't need to go any further. I've never met you, but I've certainly heard of you. I don't talk about my job on-line much, but I do a little work with diesel and propane engines for an undisclosed Federal agency. When I got my C5, I decided it would be 'fun' to learn more about the ECU, so I bought a copy of HP Tuners and bought a few books. I have some reading material with your name on it.
The funny thing is, I have been considering a vacation that takes me to a school so I can learn more about this stuff so I can tune my C6. Maybe I need to contact you off-line about that...
I received my MS-8 yesterday so I went out and started looking at where I was going to put it, along with the USD waveguides. Unfortunately, I don't think the USD's are going to work well in my C6. The motor assembly was able to tuck up under the dash well enough, but it was right above the dead pedal... and the horn throat and face will probably get in the way of my feet/legs while shifting/braking.
Looks like I might be ordering some Neo3's sooner than I thought.
Last edited by Fasthotrod; 04-10-2012 at 03:45 PM.
#19
I received my MS-8 yesterday so I went out and started looking at where I was going to put it, along with the USD waveguides. Unfortunately, I don't think the USD's are going to work well in my C6. The motor assembly was able to tuck up under the dash well enough, but it was right above the dead pedal... and the horn throat and face will probably get in the way of my feet/legs while shifting/braking.
The MS-8 can fit in the stock amp location with a bit of trimming to the factory bracket:
Note how I had to split the backing for the passenger footrest carpet in order to fold it under the horn body. You can't tell once it's back in place, but you can't "close the flap" with the horn there unless you do this.
Like I said, I still ended up going back to just the NEO3PDR's in the stock tweeter location anyway and I honestly like it better in most cases.
Last edited by TurboLX; 04-11-2012 at 09:44 AM.
#20
Melting Slicks
I can only imagine...
Thanks for the pictures, that helps me to see how you made it work.
Those mini-horn bodies appear to be considerably smaller than my full-sized USD's. I suppose that I could trim the upper and lower part of the mouth to gain some space, but I'm concerned that I'd lose some rigidity in that area, which may lead to vibration/distortion... unless I use some material to dampen the horn, which I understand already has some issues along those lines.
I don't have a picture of my horns, but the horn bodies look similar to these:
Dimensions are Size: 2.5" high x 18" wide x 10" deep. Mine have Motorola Powerline compression drivers with a threaded mouth, like this:
When I went to fit the drivers side into place, the mouth of the throat came up to the edge of the knee bolster, about an inch or so closer to the steering wheel, right along the edge where those screws connect the bolster to the car, and against that black metal bracket at the right in your top picture. I'll have to see about taking some pictures and posting them up.
I checked to see if I could order a pair to try out... and they are currently on back order.
Oh well, I guess that gives me time to plan things out a little bit and decide what direction I want to go in overall.
Here's a few pics for either inspiration or aggravation. I had to trim the hood release to make room for the driver's horn body, but it cleared the dead pedal. Your feet end up behind the horn, with the mouth of the horn basically above your shins while driving. I didn't really touch them except for ingress/egress.
The MS-8 can fit in the stock amp location with a bit of trimming to the factory bracket:
Note how I had to split the backing for the passenger footrest carpet in order to fold it under the horn body. You can't tell once it's back in place, but you can't "close the flap" with the horn there unless you do this.
The MS-8 can fit in the stock amp location with a bit of trimming to the factory bracket:
Note how I had to split the backing for the passenger footrest carpet in order to fold it under the horn body. You can't tell once it's back in place, but you can't "close the flap" with the horn there unless you do this.
Those mini-horn bodies appear to be considerably smaller than my full-sized USD's. I suppose that I could trim the upper and lower part of the mouth to gain some space, but I'm concerned that I'd lose some rigidity in that area, which may lead to vibration/distortion... unless I use some material to dampen the horn, which I understand already has some issues along those lines.
I don't have a picture of my horns, but the horn bodies look similar to these:
Dimensions are Size: 2.5" high x 18" wide x 10" deep. Mine have Motorola Powerline compression drivers with a threaded mouth, like this:
When I went to fit the drivers side into place, the mouth of the throat came up to the edge of the knee bolster, about an inch or so closer to the steering wheel, right along the edge where those screws connect the bolster to the car, and against that black metal bracket at the right in your top picture. I'll have to see about taking some pictures and posting them up.
Like I said, I still ended up going back to just the NEO3PDR's in the stock tweeter location anyway and I honestly like it better in most cases.
Oh well, I guess that gives me time to plan things out a little bit and decide what direction I want to go in overall.
Last edited by Fasthotrod; 04-11-2012 at 03:38 PM.