Thrash

Hey there,
I am almost all set to do my mega-install on my '09 vert, so thought I'd share the planning portion while waiting for a few parts & before photoing the install. I attached PDFs if those help with your planning.

I'll keep the ugly 2LT non-bose HU and start with a full deadening, pillar tweets, all new speakers, amps and processor. More to come ...

NYC6

you got alot going on there.

pentavolvo

please use better speakers

EVRose

That IS a lot going on! If I were going to get that deep into it and spend that much $ I would go ahead and get a better HU.

Kensmith

Very impressive layout. Better than most home audio. But why the low quality speakers? Dennis can get you some nice speakers for a very good price. Spend the extra money on what your ears will hear.

Kale

Arc mixed the pyle... I feel like my leg is getting pulled here.

Why would you risk making the pyles sound bad with Arc's nasty colorations? Consider the Audison thesis rather.

Thrash

The HU could be better, but with the Audio Control line driver and DQXS it will blow away any HU ...

These are a start, wanted to go Focal, but these from P.XPress were dirt cheap with great specs ... and swapped out anytime if they disappoint ...

Again, the A.C. line driver and DQXS will allow me to clean, contour and tune each set of speakers, but went with the Arcs for size (both will be in the footwell!!!) and the specs & reviews were positive.

Thanks for the comments, that's what I need. The acoustic stage was a major focus, 4-pairs of tweeters are in there, 6 midranges and the sub. I'll be able to change to xover and gain on each pair of spkrs from the DQXS, using either the wired or wireless remote, as well as saving those settings on memory pre-sets. You need to check out that DQXS, an amazing device ...

Kale

Sorry, I thought you were kidding about the Pyles so I was applying some reverse hyperbole. Arc makes great amps.


But since you are serious- why not look at good DIY speakers like Seas, Scanspeak, even Tymphany?

kedar

nice project. have a fun time with the install and post pictures.

Thrash

Thanks Kedar, especially for your install thread, mine will be similar with some twists, and addressing some vert challenges ...

Thrash

Hope to upgrade later and thanks for your recs ...

johnnyko12

hahaha wow, that is wayyy a lot going on. Should be a fun install :-) Need lots of pics!

I'm not a pro so I'm just asking, not sure if I'm right or not. If you hook up a $800 crossover to a clock radio, is it going to make beautiful sound? I'm just trying to wrap my head around how this will work. If the original source unit is not fantastic, can you make it better by hooking something up inbetween?

If I only have a VHS player and decide to hook it up to a brand new 1080p LED tv it's not going to look any better than on a 720p tv. Regardless of what I have on the output end the source is still an old analog junk box.

Also, if you're actually that concerned about SQ the imaging issues with 2938723 speakers is going to be quite a mess to play with. Not saying it can't be done, I'm just saying it can be done much easier, with less wiring, less install time, and less overall p.i.t.a.ness with less speakers.

Thrash

I'm no pro either, this setup is derived from years of studying forum threads here and on others. The stock HU puts out a decent signal, using the PAC ADD-GM24 gives you a flat signal that can be improved upon. The first improvement starts with the AudioControl Matrix line-driver. This boosts the line-level signal to 13volts or less, so the signal is conditioned with strong, clean and noiseless sound. When I had this installed on my C5, you could pause the iPod and crank the volume all the way up with no hiss or noise. Next the signal goes to the AudioControl DQXS digital equalizer/crossover, where you can further control levels, 32 bands of EQ, and crossover settings for each of up to 8 pairs of speakers (2 of these being subs). Plus with the DQXS you can opt for the wired & wireless remote control. When I had this in the C5 it was amazing ... I could boost the pillar tweets, or the rear mids, or choose a number of pre-programmed EQ settings! ...

That's not entirely true. I have a Denon AVR-3312CI, and it conditions standard signals (upconverts) to 1080p, though it's not true 1080p - it is a remarkable improvement and hard to tell it's not HD ...

Good point, but the stock speakers are all set below your chest (and ears) thus the stage is on the floor, whereas adding the pillar tweets and upper-door mid-range 3.5"s will (or should) raise those high & mid stages dramatically. I could see the rears not being used though, but have liked that fill in the past.

johnnyko12

I've always wondered how those upconverter things worked and if they really worked, I've never see one. Can you run your cable box there and watch regualar stations that aren't in hd and make them look like hd? (off topic, sorry)


I'm with ya on the rears. Even though you don't necessarily need them I've kind of been a more=louder=better kind of guy

Thrash

It's my post ... so off-topic is fine. The Denon AVR series (3 or 4 HDMI up-verters) take regular cable or dish TV and make it HD (almost ... just a tad off), same with regular DVD or VHC. Though it is not "actual 1080p" it is 3 times the res of non-HD source. My AVR-3312CI is especially amazing for sound with a true 11.2 array (C, R, L, HR, HL, WR, WL, SurR, SurL, SurBR, SurBL - and Sub x 2!!!!). Read about it, it is amazing (my wife is constantly saying "what was that?" when a sf/x hits one of the side skrs).

ecarbone51

I have a 12' GS vert and will be watching your posts with great interest. I have the "improved" Blose system and it....Blose. What are you planning for a sub enclosure?

Thrash

I'll eventually do the JL Vert boxes <CLICK HERE> but for now just a simple out-in-the-open Pioneer box from DoubleD <CLICK HERE>, but it's in the back behind the partition -and behind the top when it's down. So I'll see how that does and maybe make a switch if the bass is way down.

Fasthotrod

Thrash

No doubt! But sheesh, there are zillions of speakers and WTF - Seas, Scanspeak, CDT, Tymphany, Audison Thesis, Rockford, Memphis, Polk, Boston, Focal, blah-blah-blah, etc etc ... there is no end to choices and none are better than the other - and for the most part DOES NOT MATTER. The speaker depends on the upstream feed, and I could go with a $20k pair from somewhere that would not really sound any better than my $40 Pyles once installed in my car. So it's tough to figure, but for tweets and mids I think my Pyles fed by my AudioControl pieces will blow away any Focal or CDT set. Or be close enough that Jeff next door could not tell a difference ...

fej

Ehh, I hear what you are trying to say, but speakers are not speaker cable .. they have a direct influence on overall tonality and presentation of the system .. unlike speaker cable, which doesn't.

Your signal can only be as good as your source .. and unless you are listening to SACD or some other HIGH quality recording, cleaning and recleaning can only do so much.

At the end of the day, it's your dollars, and your ears. Maybe the theoretical 10% improvement in sound quality and performance that you would get from say Seas over Pyle is not worth it to you, or you may not "hear" the differences.

However, there is a level of "get what you pay for" involved in audio, on a SERIOUSLY sharply sliding scale of diminishing returns and escalating costs.

You are effectively comparing Sears Roadhandlers to Michelin PS2's and saying they are the "same". Sure they are both tires, but they do not handle, wear, perform anywhere close to "the same".

Your weak link in the system is your drivers, and it's not close. Followed behind by a full component set in the rear, but that is a whole different discussion.

Hats off for the schematic, and make sure you do some sound deadening.

G'luck
Fej