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DIY stealth C6 coupe audio upgrade [pics]

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Old 11-30-2012, 11:34 AM
  #41  
J Christensen
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Default Sirius SIR-GM1

Just purchased a Sirius SIR-GM1 to replace my XM unit. Item description says for 2003 and newer with Class 2 bus.

No way the included wiring harness makes any connection to the oem harness.

Old 11-30-2012, 12:41 PM
  #42  
markcz
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Originally Posted by J Christensen
Just purchased a Sirius SIR-GM1 to replace my XM unit. Item description says for 2003 and newer with Class 2 bus.

No way the included wiring harness makes any connection to the oem harness.

The SIR-GM1 attaches in the trunk above the drivers side wheel. Remove the XM box and plug in the Sirius, use oem Yellow antenna on new box. Good tips HERE

Old 12-01-2012, 11:07 AM
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Ozarkwoods
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Absolutely great write up. Thanks for putting in the time to share with the rest of the forum.
Old 12-11-2012, 05:27 AM
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mesospeedy
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So, I'm not too smart when it comes to audio improvements, so forgive me if this is a stupid question. Is it possible to trim the pillar trim pieces to fit slightly larger speakers (8" subs maybe?), put a new grill piece over it and add an amp for them, then replace the door speakers with 3.5s and maybe 5.25s or 6.5s and have a very stealth upgrade? A lot of trouble maybe, but I really don't like the big sub box stuck in the hatch. Plus, I'm not looking for huge bass to win a competition, I just want good bottom end and clear sound for all my hard rock/metal \m/
Old 12-11-2012, 06:52 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by mesospeedy
Is it possible to trim the pillar trim pieces to fit slightly larger speakers (8" subs maybe?), put a new grill piece over it
Anything is possible, but it wouldn't be easy to do on the drivers side (very tight on that side), and you'd get major vibrations/buzzing from the trim pieces with a sub mounted in there.

Originally Posted by mesospeedy
then replace the door speakers with 3.5s and maybe 5.25s or 6.5s and have a very stealth upgrade?
6.5" components in the doors is the 'normal' upgrade with an aftermarket amp and sub in the back

Originally Posted by mesospeedy
I really don't like the big sub box stuck in the hatch. Plus, I'm not looking for huge bass to win a competition, I just want good bottom end and clear sound for all my hard rock/metal \m/
IMHO your best option would be something LIKE THIS for the sub, 6.5" components in the front, and a bridgeable 4-channel amp to power everything.
Old 12-13-2012, 04:07 AM
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Thanks a lot markcz! That's a great setup and likely exactly what I need sound wise. So with an 8" sub in the cubby, and 6.5" components replacing the door subs, would I also replace tge 3.5" doors? Would you just delete the factory rears all together? I have the 1LT "base" non nav head unit, so would it be best to just power all the speakers with the amp? Sorry for all the q's, I love music but know nothing about car audio!

Last edited by mesospeedy; 12-13-2012 at 04:21 AM.
Old 12-13-2012, 05:47 PM
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Everything in the doors would be removed. Make/buy adapter plates for the components (6" in bottom, tweeter in old 3.5" location). 1/4" MDF works great for a simple component setup.

Use channels 1&2 of a bridgeable 4-channel amp for the fronts. Bridge channels 3&4 together for the sub. Try it like that first, if you miss the rears then you can simply let the oem setup play through the oem speakers for the rear fill.

Just be careful of the amp/speaker/sub ratings when you buy the parts. Bridged amps usually want 4ohms on the bridged channels, so be sure sub is 4ohm capable and has RMS rating close to RMS of the amp when bridged to 4ohms.

Dennis at DDmods can prob hook you up with everything in one box, and you'd be sure to get matched gear
Old 12-13-2012, 05:49 PM
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Another option for a few more dollars is a 5-channel amp (with a dedicated sub channel). That would give you amped channels for the rears also, but then you'd have to buy new aftermarket speakers for the rear also.
Old 12-21-2012, 12:57 PM
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ZO ZICK
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Very Nice
Old 02-06-2013, 11:42 PM
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Old 03-12-2013, 12:03 AM
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I have a 2012 Z06. I just received all of my parts from Rick. I have installed all items. Buttoned up doors finished deck area with mat, insulation and have put it all together. I read all of your posted instructions. My car did not have a Bose system, Now that I am ready to test fit the two amps I find there is a standard amplifier where the article shows the Bose. I have removed it. There are 30 wires in two different harneses. My question is? Does it matter that this is disconnected. I am usinhg the Pioneer App Radio as the HU. A 125.4 bridged to support only frront left and right door speakers and the 500 for the Sub. I assume the rear speakers will no longer work without the stock amplifier in place. Let me know please.
Jeff Blackwood
Old 03-12-2013, 06:18 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by jblack223
My question is? Does it matter that this is disconnected. I am usinhg the Pioneer App Radio as the HU. A 125.4 bridged to support only frront left and right door speakers and the 500 for the Sub. I assume the rear speakers will no longer work without the stock amplifier in place. Let me know please.
Jeff Blackwood
Your rear speakers will not work with the factory amp disconnected. I tucked the wiring harness / plugs for the factory amp out of the way so that the audio system could eventually be returned to stock.
Old 03-12-2013, 09:10 AM
  #53  
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Thanks for the help. So many wires you would think the power to my house would go off as well.
Old 03-27-2014, 05:50 PM
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nice...
Old 04-23-2014, 04:34 PM
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hopseng911
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Default Dd hu

What is your thoughts on the JVC KW-V30BT DD unit and the
Kenwood Excelon DDX8901HD in delivering audiophile sound? I take it both units have a DAC on board for 2014.
Thanks
DS

Originally Posted by RAAMaudio
Note:
Stock HU, there is one, maybe two now, DD NAV HU's worth swaping to, the newest top model Alpine as you can get a digital processor to work with it. I have not paid much attention to it lately, at first there were some issues with it so I should take a look at the current situation, around $2k retail for the package.

I have been waiting for the Arc Audio processor, tentative scheduled release before the end of this year, probably going to be the best one ever, really.

I have a last years model JVC DD NAV unit that has digital output so I can use the Arc to optimize the sound quality(world class audiophile) but now their newest top model finally has a 24 bit DAC but not listed as a Burr Brown like they use in some single DIN players. I am going to get one to take a listen to as it might be an affordable step up from stock and all the other aftermarket DD NAV units available.

Other than what I just mentioned, none of the current DD NAV units have very good audio stages, not great DACs, not great output devices, etc.....unfortunately.
Old 12-25-2014, 03:49 PM
  #56  
GhostC6
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Where did you get the heat stuff and the deadner and the other stuff, it is marked, was it a kit or what and where did you get it? How much difference can you tell in heat reduction and is it more quiet. The roar of the run flats drives me nuts..lol
Old 12-26-2014, 09:42 AM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by GhostC6
Where did you get the heat stuff and the deadner and the other stuff, it is marked, was it a kit or what and where did you get it? How much difference can you tell in heat reduction and is it more quiet. The roar of the run flats drives me nuts..lol
The heat insulation is a kit from MadVette Motorsports and is available here: http://www.madvettemotorsports.com/p...insulation-kit. The panels were marked and it was not too tough to figure out where each piece goes. Get the aluminum tape to be able to tape the insulation down and in place. Hard to say about the heat insulation. I have no objective data other than the footwell does not seem to get as warm and items in the center console don't get as hot. My vette is more comfortable in the summer. Tinted windows and the ceramic covered tunnel plate also help with the heat.

The deadener is from RAAMAudio (both types, the black ensolite and the aluminum-backed tiles). Rick has retired, but I believe his son is now running the business. I'm sure all of the deadener and insulation would quiet down your tires and make for a more enjoyable ride.



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