kedar

Thanks. I have taken a close look at the speaker placement within the grill and I am happy with their lower and forward placement. There does not appear to be anything from the door panel obstructing the speakers.

I have also updated my original post with more detail and additional pictures. I hope the information helps other corvette owners who would like to improve their audio systems.

kurtwalheim

Great write up and pics.

I also used the Arc Audio 125.4 and 500.1. I am amazed that they are not overheating in the OEM location in the floor. I mounted both mine on the wall behind the passenger seat and had trouble with them over heating and going into protection mode -- til I discovered that a plastic bag I had stuck underneath the passenger seat (it's a long story) was blocking air circulation. Those amps get very hot and the floor boards in 'vettes get very hot. I can't image that not overheating. But I like my music loud, that could be the problem.

0RAAMaudio

Great writeup and wait until you get your sub, which is here waiting for the exact matching stock carpet

I have shipped a bunch of the KS mini amps in my systems and only one overheating issue reported and not even in the foot well, we replaced it asap though overheating is a rare issue with these amps. A plastic bag, yes, that could be an issue as shown

Any amp cranked up loud for a long time will get pretty hot, make sure you are not abusing your ears to much though, much harder to replace. I like it very loud but do so for short durations and not that often, only if super clean, accurate reproduction, etc, which is far more tolerable than just plain loud and crude sounding like far to many systems are.

The biggest engineering issue when these amps were designed was heat, by far, getting the sound of an AB(they are a hybrid, AB with switching power supply to make them small and efficient) in such a tiny package is not easy. there are no other amps like except a clone that cannot deal with heat at all, they did not get that part of the cloning figured out.

Nothing in a D class amp can touch these amps sound quality, I have talked to some of the worlds leading audio engineers about this, even the ones that design many types of amps, AB, Class H, D, etc....these are class H.

Anybody looking into a really great system has no real other choice, not now at least and not for some time to come it seems.

0RAAMaudio

Note:
Stock HU, there is one, maybe two now, DD NAV HU's worth swaping to, the newest top model Alpine as you can get a digital processor to work with it. I have not paid much attention to it lately, at first there were some issues with it so I should take a look at the current situation, around $2k retail for the package.

I have been waiting for the Arc Audio processor, tentative scheduled release before the end of this year, probably going to be the best one ever, really.

I have a last years model JVC DD NAV unit that has digital output so I can use the Arc to optimize the sound quality(world class audiophile) but now their newest top model finally has a 24 bit DAC but not listed as a Burr Brown like they use in some single DIN players. I am going to get one to take a listen to as it might be an affordable step up from stock and all the other aftermarket DD NAV units available.

Other than what I just mentioned, none of the current DD NAV units have very good audio stages, not great DACs, not great output devices, etc.....unfortunately.

0RAAMaudio

Added weight,

Arc Audio KS mini 125.4 and 500.1, 3.2 lbs each
Alumalite speaker baffles, 4.5 oz each
Almualite door filler panesl, 11 oz each
Aluminum channels so we use less mass in the doors, 6 oz each
RAAMmat BXT II and PS Ensolite to deadend these very noisy cars, some mass just has to be used, 18lbs installed
I did not weight the stock speakers, the Arc Blackline or Hybrids weight more, SE Hybrids the least but they are $$$$, but they are all incredible sounding.
RAAMaudio C6 sub enclosure, with Arc 10 sub(stellar sub by the way) 21lbs
Arc EXQ to maximize the stock HU signal level and sound quality, 1.2 lbs
Misc cables, etc....3-4 lbs

Total 52 lbs +- minus whatever the stock speakers and amp weigh, net will be around 45lbs or so, or less or a bit more, I should of weight the stock stuff before I tossed it out.

I am not including rear speakers in this, I took mine out, tossed them, I do not run rear speakers, a properly setup front sound stage just does not need them, saves a bit more weight

For all out track junkies we can reduce a bit of deadening weight but it does cost in less noise reduction, use neo magnets mids like Hybrid SE, just one amp, etc.....still a very nice system, we can probably do this in the mid 30 lb range if careful in just what we use.

But, for those what want this combo:

Super car with Super audio + vastly reduced road noise +reduced cabin temps, not a bad way to go for the weight added

I do this because I am a fellow Vette owner, built my system and realized you deserved more than the typical offerings I found.

Rick

kedar

I am very happy with the deadening and audio products from Rick. Just waiting for the sub and box...

Both of my amps are live and fully hooked up, but the 500.1 is not driving anything. So far, no overheating and no thermal protection. I listen to my music loud.

0RAAMaudio

I used your sub and enclosure to get the latest version weight rating buddy

"RAAMaudio C6 sub enclosure, with Arc 10 sub(stellar sub by the way) 21lbs"

I just did not like the carpet well enough that was supposed to match, as in the PM, I have a lead on actual Vette carpet I am calling about it tomorrow, it would be so cool to have the same exact one on this for you!

Rick

kedar

Thank you Rick, can't wait!

bill mcdonald

What going on in here? Do you have some two, 1" C-beam aluminum stock just double sided taped in there?

Does it reach all the way down the door, or just behind the speaker?

kedar

those are aluminum door stiffeners from Rick at RaamAudio and they are adhered with double-sided tape to the outer door skin in order to stiffen up the door. the bars are like 40" long. the BXT II is also adhered to the outer door skin and rolled up the side of the channels.

Thrash

When you put these on be sure to add a bunch more double-stick, as they come with just a few pieces. Rock out ...

dobber

Thanks for this write up, me and a buddy used it quite a bit when we installed our systems.

Slim 07

Great write up. I found it very helpful. I did a similar set up -- stock nav and two mini arc audios.

I was wondering if you ever got the sub and ks 500.1 operational? And did running both amps in the foot hole still not create any heat problems?

0RAAMaudio

The double sided tape is to hold the channels in place while we use the mat between and above and below them but ran down the sides of the channels which is what makes them effective. The tape we use is a window glazing tape, as thin as we can use so the channels are closer to the door skin but also to allow for any curvature, etc......

I normally ship them with the tape the full length just to do so, not really that important, but we ran low and had our restock took some time to arrive so we used a bit on the ends so we could make what we had last to get the orders out.

Again, the key element is the mat worked well down the sides of the channels, and rubbed well onto the door skin, that is where the stiffening really comes from, not the tape

-----------

I have shipped quite a few C6 systems running both amps in the footwells and they can get warm but if spaced properly so the air can flow around them, they work fine and are designed to handle the heat.

One member added a 12 volt fan as his were getting pretty warm but did not have the amp mounts so they might of not been optimally placed for air flow.

-----------

I am trying to get more amp mounts made up but my business has been so crazy just no time lately. I will have to get 4 sets done today or tomorrow though, they are due to ship out, overdue in one case, oops!

Rick

0Cajun @ Edgyvette

I will be doing an aftermarket DVD/NAV/MP3 in my 08 and need to know what wiring harnesses I need? I have researched and find conflicting data. Do I need a door chime and steering wheel control adapter? Do I need an adapter to plug the GM antena in the back of the Kenwood unit? What adapter do I need to wire the head unit into the non Bose wiring harness on this 1LT car?

markcz

NO OnStar = THIS ONE + SWI made for a Kenwood

YES OnStar = THIS ONE + SWI made for a Kenwood

You WILL need an antenna adapter, and also a plastic mounting adapter for the dash.

pentavolvo

C6 FAQ has all the answers

Craig P

I did almost the exact same install in my 2008 Coupe late last summer.

Sounds absolutely awesome.

On a few hot days the amps did cut out due to overheating.

I am planning on piping in some cold fresh air, I just haven't figured out how yet.

I was thinking of maybe ducting in cold air from the airconditioning or just installing one of those 5" by 1.5X1.5 squirl fans.

For now, when it is hot, I just pull the carpet flat down and have no problems.....

Love to hear if anybody has any good ideas, nothing is easy to fit down there!

Halcon

Great write up Lucas! Got around to finally reading it today, nice to meet you at lunch!

Don

Chrisrokc

This made me want to go back and redo mine. Right now I have one box of dynamat extreme placed in the areas I thought needed it most. On top of that I bought an insulation kit for the whole car. This made a big difference.

I just bought two more boxes of dynamat to cover the rest of the interior. Hopefully I will be able to reduce some more road noise.