OneBadvATE

I just finished wiring up my deck and the power is just constant. When I take out the keys and close the door the radio doesn't turn off. I purchased this install kit: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_120SVI2...ce.html?tp=678 I wired everything per the instructions provided and I searched around google and the forum without much success of figuring out the issue. Any ideas?

markcz

Make sure the red, yellow, and black wires are matched to the same color between the radio and XSVI. If they are, most likely your XSVI is bad, but you can check for +12v on the red wire with the car off to verify that.

mr_unruly2u

I ran into the same issue when I installed one of the Metra adapters last year as well. Crutchfield wasn't able to solve it, so finally I contacted Metra and here was their suggestion:

Remove the XSVI (or just disconnect from the car at the radio harness). Turn the car off, open the door to kill RAP (retained accessory), then shut the door and let the car go to sleep (approximately 10 min). Plug the radio/XSVI back in, and the accessory output should go low. Then turn on the car and wait about 30 seconds for the XSVI to find the car, and all will be good.

But...before you get all excited that this will solve the problem, please be warned that I tore my console all back apart and did exactly what they said and absolutely nothing changed. There appears to be some sort of magic necessary for the Metra unit to get into proper synch with the RAP signal. I say that because I also had various instances (depending on whether or not the car went to "sleep" during the installation) where I couldn't get my H/U to turn on at all even with the key on. I finally got it back to where it is powered constantly, which of course was the initial problem, and I just left it at that. Luckily my car isn't a daily driver, so turning the radio on & off all the time hasn't been too big of a hassle.

Good luck to you...if you find a solution I'd love to hear it!

P.S. Through the process Crutchfield sent me two different Metra units, and I had the same results with both. They even offered a third one to try, but I declined because I'm confident it wouldn't have mattered. I can't say enough good things about their Customer Service, but of course there is only so much they can do.

jcgunn

OK, do what these other guys said...these are common problems, If those things don't work, then check the light green parking brake wire (nanny state cutoff circuit). If it is hooked up to the wrong source, you will not be able to turn the H/U off with the Metra box.
Cheers,
JG

markcz

I had the same issue with my first interface adapter (Scosche). Switching to GMCO (now C2R-GM24) solved the problem.

I posted about it at the time (my thread), only thing I can suggest is to use the start button to go from car off into 'accessory mode', that is what seemed to reset my Scosche when it wouldn't turn off the radio.

mr_unruly2u

I don't know about OneBadvATE's H/U, but mine does not have a wire that connects to the park brake circuit. I believe you'll see that wire on units that have a screen for video playback, which mine does not. Thanks!

markcz

If you're having trouble with an XSVI, the easiest fix is to switch to an ROEM-Vet1

mr_unruly2u

From what I understand of the Pac instructions, you will lose the RAP function altogether because it requires you to tap into the accessory wire off the ignition switch (or wherever you choose). You could do the very same thing with the Metra unit as well of course, which I may well do since I have the entire dash apart at the moment to replace both blend door actuators.

markcz

If the only problem you have with the XSVI is that the radio doesn't turn off you could add a GMRAP for the switched RAP power.

mr_unruly2u

That's true in theory, but of course the same can be said for the XSV1. One could only hope the GMRAP understands C5'ese better, because it would be reading the same data line.

Since my dash is all apart for the blend door replacement, against my better judgement I decided to give the Metra "initialize" procedure a go one more time. As I expected, now my H/U won't turn on at all. Over the weekend I will say a couple Hail Mary's and try all the various combinations of key on, key off, door closed, door open, etc, etc, to try and get it back to constant power instead. If I get frustrated enough (too late), I may just find another circuit that has RAP power and use that to fire a relay to send accessory power to my H/U. $1.59 for a relay, and a little more work finding a wire and slicing into it, but that should fix it!

markcz

Your XSVI isn't working properly, if you get a GMRAP that doesn't work you can send it back, but it will work.

Doesn't exist

RAP schematics are available HERE if you want to try anyway.

mr_unruly2u

If it doesn't exist I will just say forget it...although that does sound like a bit of a challenge to play with it some more!

OneBadvATE

Just wanted to pop in an let everyone know I managed to figure it out. Apparently the XSV1 has a learn procedure it must for the RAP to function properly. You must connect everything as instructed in the instructions. Then, turn the car on but don't turn on the stereo. Wait for 30 seconds and you will see the stereo turn itself on. It is now programmed and ready to go. I followed those steps and have had no issues since

kaisersteiner

Guys- My question is if you leave it this way will it drain the battery if you just turn the radio off when you exit? I just finished the install and I am having the same issue ;(

pentavolvo

personally i say yes but i guess it really depends on the radio

mr_unruly2u

No, it won't. It still has battery power going to it for memory just like any radio would, but if you turn the power off manually it will not run down the battery. Mine was that way for more than nine months. Since I just had the dash apart again for the blend door actuator replacement, I went ahead and hooked it into the accessory wire off the ignition switch now. The RAP function isn't that important to me, although it would be nice if the Metra unit worked the way it is advertised, and at least now I won't/can't forget to turn it off each time. I went through the "initialize" process at least four times on different occasions and it never did work. If you keep trying, I hope you have better luck than I did!

pentavolvo

not 100% true some radios even when turned off keep the display lit etc

markcz

For draining the battery it really depends on the rado you have. When I turned everything off using the screen buttons on my old D3 it killed all audio sources, but still had the screen powered up. If your radio is like that, then the battery won't last long. If you can verify that the radio turns completely off, then it shouldn't be an issue.

If you feel the interface working properly is a lost cause, why not rewire the radio with normal switched power from the fuse box.

mr_unruly2u

Well if the display stays lit, then it would be kind of obvious that it would run the battery down. I made the assumption there was at least that much electrical knowledge flowing here. My bad...

pantherchams

I know this is old but I had a similar issue after about a year with my crutchfield kit. Rather than mess around with the dash I just pulled the radio fuse, replaced, reset the stereo and all has been good.

Ben