Hi,
I got a C5 vert with 2 small A/D/S amps (2 channels each 250MX).
I will install a two 8" MTX sub in the doors with polk tweeters and another pairs of 4" full range in the trunk.
The speaker in the trunk actually does not sound much ... to me ...
I am planning to run 2 channels for the two 8" subs and another 2 channels for the tweeters and two rear 4".
What do y'all think???? Should I run 2 channels for the 8" subs and tweeters and another 2 dedicated channel for the rears????
And of course, I will put another bigger amp for the 12" sub in the trunk ...
Please, I need advices !!!!
Thanks and have a nice day
-Mike :cheers:
Personally, I'd use one amp to power the 8's and the other to power the 4's and tweeters. Of course I'd make sure the amps had enough power to compensate for top-down road driving/cruising. ARe you going to use passive or electronic crossovers, that would be the main desicion maker in my mind. Good Luck :cheers:
The amp I bought will have built in cross over so I just use the amp cross over ....
I can buy a Infinity Kappa cross over for the front but I feel like a waiting money for a dedicated amp for two 4" in the trunk.
Yours is a coupe so the rear makes big sound but my is a vert so the it got the real trunk so the rear just like a hidden speaker and wouldn't sound that much.
I'll go like you ... 1 amp for the 8" subs in the doors and 1 amp for tweeters and 4" speakers.
BTW, thanks for the response on the subwoofer topic ...
I am planning to get either 12" Solo Baric L7 (square one) or MA audio MA120XL ...
the MA is about 40 lbs (a little heavy) and do you know how heavy is the solo baric????
Thanks and have a nice day.
-Mike :cheers:
Hey JoeyG,
I just looked at your web page and you got an awsome system ...
The tweeter look nice ... are they mounted on a carbon or wood????
How do you tight you sub box in the trunk????
Thanks
-Mike :cheers:
The sub box was made to fit as tightly in the storage well as possible. Basically i have to amost sit on it to force it down in there. The factory cover pin holder brackets help keep the box in place.
The tweeters were easy to do. Just bought a replacement defroster vent from gene@Karshop and the made birch blanks to fit in the holes from the removed vent. Using superglue the blanks hold in very well. Just had to use caution when applying foam padding and aluminum tape to prevent heat soak on the backside of the tweeters. The clearnace bewteen the tape and defrost duct is equal to that of a gnats arse, but they greatly improve the sound stage level. MRKLN, SBKIM, or Xrockstr can attset to that. God luck, and if you have any more questions, drop a line. :cheers:
Thanks JoeyG,
What kind of meterial in the bottom of your sub box????
JL and Kicker, which one is a better sub for the money ???
I just wanna spend around 120$ or the sub ... maybe a sigle 12".
Thanks again,
-Mke :cheers:
3/4" Birch for the top and sides, 5/16 inch thick fiberglass for well contours and box front. Personally I prefer JL, but then I use kicker midrange drivers. Look at both subs if possible, listen to anyone's car who may have one, thats about the best way to choose. Try looking at the JL Audio W0 line and the Kicker Competitions or comparable price range.
I'm not positive but you should be alright in that price range with a JL12W0. However some peolpe may disaggre, but in the end it's your choice. Good Luck
Hi JoeyG,
I am trying to get JL 12W3 now ...
What wires are you using for yours????
Do you know anything about Stinger wires???
I am planning to get those since they are not really expensive.
Thanks
-Mike :cheers:
I went Overkill about a year ago and bought a roll of 10 ga Speakerwire from Tsunami. I've used that for the subs, then used 14 ga Tsunami from another reel I've purchased for the midrange/twetters. For RCA's I used AudioBahn ProSeries(?) Like the build quality alot! Stinger cables are of good quality and I've used them many times in the past.
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