Soon to announce my Top Tier OEM lisenced audio upgrade packages:)

[RAAMaudio]

I am working with Arc Audio and Image Dynamics on a killer audio system package for our cars, I am OEM licensed with both companies for this project.

Sound deadening is a critical part, really the cornerstone of any good audio system. To help you understand the quality of my new RAAMmat, I supply Harmon International with our new BXT II for their auto manf project cars.

These are very much top tier companies and what I am going to provide will show just how serious I am about our sweet Corvettes.

Thanks
Rick

PS I know how to spell licensed, typo, spell checker did not catch it, ooooops

[Kale]

hopefully something with teh arc minis!

[RAAMaudio]

Absolutely using the cool arse minis

I am having some modified to change the crossover points for a bi-amped two way system using large bass drivers that can play quite low for systems without a sub woofer.

I will also be testing the ID 6x9's I have on the way in a ported drop in door enclosure that has modeled to play very very low. The amps will not need to be modified for that setup, instead will be bridged for 250 watts per channel, passive crossovers.

Once I have a killer two way setup worked out I will then play with some sub woofer ideas I have, I can fit two Arc Mini amps where the stock Bose now resides

These are only going to be sold in some sort of package deal, proper deadening required, amps, speakers, etc dependent on what each vehicle owner needs, nothing will be sold separately unless an upgrade to a system I have provided.

I want to ensure a well balanced package, everything preset for the best audio output, etc...and may include inline EQ's, pre tuned, if needed.

Anything I do is always based on audio quality first. How loud you want it past any reasonable real music level is not my bag though at least one will get it on quite well indeed but very musical while doing so(one of my cars(not a Vette) did 138.4db on a music track over a 2 minute average and was crystal clear in doing so, that was not even the intent to be that loud, just happened to work out that way

Unfortunately there are very few shops left that have a clue on how to do things right in car audio, a major reason I have decided to do this(and take time away from my regular business where my time is more profitable


I am not dissing any shop here of course, I do not really know them, some have to do great work.

Rick

[ronjastone]

look forward to seeing when you have it done

[RAAMaudio]

Me too buddy

I am really hoping to get lucky and not have to add any EQ to the circuit, makes it simpler for the install, less expensive obviously, the simpler the better but not many vehicles can get by without it. Tuning is not easy to learn but once you really start getting a handle on it amazing things can happen(with the right gear of course).

Once I get what I think is the absolute best out of the basic system then I will move up the chain and look at inline processing and still using the stock HU.

After than then I will explore aftermarket HU, so far none really impress me all that much but luckily I have some very very talented and experienced buddies to ask so I do not have to go buy a bunch of them

I do not personally need NAV, etc so I may gut my stock unit and install a transport and wire the basic controls to run one of my old standby Eclipse units but have the stock look, that is a winter project for sure but I have two race cars to get done, one is close and needs sold, the other is a huge project and I want to race starting as early as I can next year, going to be a busy winter for me!

Rick

[fej]

Curious what you are going to put together Rick

I do have to wonder about a 6x9, 6" motor + 6x9" cone = non linear travel. I have always liked ID stuff though.

Fej

[RAAMaudio]

I have never liked any 6x9's except a couple of very rare exceptions, so rare you could never find some to buy even.

BUT, if you can build the cone as light as possible(an absolute must for accuracy) and have the same stiffeness on all areas, there is no problem running an oval speaker.

Not easy to design but they did what it takes and I know it will be great, will find out Monday when mine arrive

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Arc Audio mini amp(s) they have 3, I will use the right one(s) for the particular system complexity, budget, etc...I am having the crossovers modified in some of the 4 channels so I can use them bi-amped, mids and tweets. I can fit one 4 channel and one 2 channel easily in the Bose amp location, fitting the 4 channel and the sub amp(same size) there may be tough but should work as well. If I can get enough bass out of the doors then the single 4 channel would be great in a bi-amped setup.

I am testing some Morel 9's with Seas full size aluminum dome tweeters right now, I will look more at the specs on the 10's and some Dyn's but the cost goes up dramatically, not many would pay that much per driver and I am not sure they would be worth the cost.

I have a set of the ID's on the way, they may be the best bet since I can make them fit, pretty large radiating surface, not huge excursion but there is a limit on what can fit in the doors, mounting depth and excursion combined is quite limited. I will be testing, from data already worked out at ID, a ported drop in enclosure that shows being able to play sub bass! It this works out we could run a lower cost two channel amp at 75watts per channel but running the 4 channel bridged at 250 watts would be sweet I am sure I love power when I can make it work for me(my old Tacoma had a quad amped front stage with 900 watts per side, dual midbasses had 600 of that, you want to hear kick drums???

If I get the ported setup to work then less deadening of the outer door skin will be needed much less.

If not and get good output from open back setup then much more deadening, I may include aluminum channels, pre taped, to bond to the doors before deadening, it cuts down on the amount of mat needed, saves weight, I did this to my car already.

I am looking into providing wiring kits including RCA's etc, where everything possible is plug and play.

--------------

The plan for now is to use stock locations for the mids and tweets and if I do anything with subs, maybe something for the Verts like rebuild the waterfall underneath to fit a sub in.

If the stock tweeter location cannot be made to have a proper stage height, etc..I will probably make up some A pillars with smaller tweets mounted there, I have done many with great success. (there is only one way to do this right with very slight changes to tune it for the specific vehicle, never have heard a factory setup done correctly nor many DIY or audio shop installs either but I have heard some pretty good, just not quite on the money which makes a huge difference.

OK, giving away all my secrets, mostly, no worries as I have nothing to hide, if others can learn and do better from anything I do, great, we need more doing things that work

(P.S. I have not figured out a great deal of this on my own, just learned from the masters, added my own touches as needed and went from there but my first audio install was 41 years ago

Rick

[Harley06]

Can't wait to see what you come up with. This is exactly what most of us have been looking for in an aftermarket set up.

[RAAMaudio]

Still working on it, took a vacation, business stuff to catch up on, will be doing more testing very very soon though

Rick