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I could hear some rattling from the rear speaker area so I wanted to investigate. This guide helped me remove the panel. I found the culprit and tightened it back up!
I could hear some rattling from the rear speaker area so I wanted to investigate. This guide helped me remove the panel. I found the culprit and tightened it back up!
I had the same issue. Ended up using clear RTV inside the grills. Problem solved.
Good write up. I tackled this project today. Only thing I'll add- this little bastard clip resulted in some banged up fingers and swearing. When I pulled off the panels (on both driver and passenger sides), this didn't stay attached to the panel and was still fastened in. It was a MF getting it out, and I ended up using a crowbar to pry it out. Outside of this, the process was pretty straight-forward. I didn't have any issue removing the little black push pins.
I installed a Sharkbar last night to mount my Oil Accumulator and 6 point harness. The instructions they sent were very unclear and this write up helped me get the job done. Thank you.
With the Bose system, that is correct. The rears have individual wires that run forward to the Bose amp, and are bridged in parallel just before the plug that goes into the amplifier.
On the Non-Bose system, the rear speakers are wired in stereo. Either way, they are just rear fill more than anything. In alot of the aftermarket installs we have done, Dave has either eliminated the rear speakers altogether, or just run them off very low power, either from the aftermarket radio or from a low powered aftermarket amp, just to provide rear fill for those who want it.
A good 2 or 3 way component system, along with our C6 sub enclosure that Dave designed when he was running MadVette Motorsports, is a great setup that all of our customers love much more than the OEM stereo.
I hate to dig up this old thread but can anyone verify that they bridge at the connector on the amp? If so any way to indicate which side is which since they run the same colors without having to pull the rear speakers and test for continuity (i know i probably just answered my own question there but im dreading pulling the rear panels around the harness bar I just put in lol)?
I hate to dig up this old thread but can anyone verify that they bridge at the connector on the amp? If so any way to indicate which side is which since they run the same colors without having to pull the rear speakers and test for continuity (i know i probably just answered my own question there but im dreading pulling the rear panels around the harness bar I just put in lol)?
just use a 9v battery to send a signal to the speaker. it will just make a pop sound.
03-25-2015, 02:24 PM
I had the same issue. Ended up using clear RTV inside the grills. Problem solved.
