hey everyone just wanted to see what you guys think of pioneer tsc720prs component speakers?? What kinda of sound should i here from these using the factory nav with after market amp? Thanks for any info
If you have the amp setup right, it will be loud and clear. I crossed my fronts over at 90 Hz, 12 dB slope. I can crank my Alpine / Xtant 603 to max volume with zero distortion. (I run a Polk MOMO 12" DVC sub.)
Here is a link to a group of photos on my server if you want to see the installation process:
I took a lot of shots to make sure that the tweeter wasn't going to get blocked by my leg in the lower part of the door where I eventually put them... don't mind my "MC Hammer" pants.
I may end up replacing the tweeters, as I would like something a bit more 'sharp' up top. The tweeters sound good, but maybe a bit mellow.
Good luck with your decision on what speakers to buy.
Mark thanks for the info. I would like to know if the mids are good with the speakers? Also can you hear good separtion from left to right( like if the song has a part where you hear a note on the right side then to the left do these speakers hande this good?) thanks for any input or info and again thanks for the links
Also can you hear good separtion from left to right
That's really more a function of install, not of the speakers themselves. Although the qualities of the speakers themselves can have some impact on the needed install
I do think that the 720prs set is a great set for the money. I agree with Kale good separation is more about install than drivers.
I do recommend that if you get a set of the 720's that you run at least 75w per side to them RMS. They are not the most efficient set out there. I would also not cross them below 80hz at 12db (preferably 80hz 24db) or the upper midrange gets muddy.
I do think that the 720prs set is a great set for the money. I agree with Kale good separation is more about install than drivers.
I do recommend that if you get a set of the 720's that you run at least 75w per side to them RMS. They are not the most efficient set out there. I would also not cross them below 80hz at 12db (preferably 80hz 24db) or the upper midrange gets muddy.
G'luck with the install.
Fej
Thanks for the info i do have these speakers in my car i am runing a pioneer 4x75w amp for the components.i have them in place off were the factory speakers were. Do you think this was a good place to set them? Also maybe my amp still needs a bit more tunning? They do sound good just wondering if this was normal?
Did you use a set of pre-cut mounting plates? Something you put together yourself?
Factory locations are usually "ok", especially in a C6. I assume you mounted the tweet up top where the blose "twiddler" used to be. Even these can be optimized with some care taken in the mounting and positioning of the drivers themselves. I have not done any C6 installs but there are some great systems in C6's that you can reference here in this forum.
Unfortunately this is a very individual hobby IMO. What sounds great to you might not sound great to me and vice versa. You have purchased a quality component set, and sounds like you have adequate power.
It sounds to me that you are not that happy with the setup. Have you read through any of the "C5 faq" for tips on tuning etc? What HU are you using? What music type? What is your crossover set at? Do you have a sub? Are you the type that jumps in the car and cranks the treble?
Lots of questions to answer I know, but it will better help us get you dialed in.
Did you use a set of pre-cut mounting plates? Something you put together yourself?
Factory locations are usually "ok", especially in a C6. I assume you mounted the tweet up top where the blose "twiddler" used to be. Even these can be optimized with some care taken in the mounting and positioning of the drivers themselves. I have not done any C6 installs but there are some great systems in C6's that you can reference here in this forum.
Unfortunately this is a very individual hobby IMO. What sounds great to you might not sound great to me and vice versa. You have purchased a quality component set, and sounds like you have adequate power.
It sounds to me that you are not that happy with the setup. Have you read through any of the "C5 faq" for tips on tuning etc? What HU are you using? What music type? What is your crossover set at? Do you have a sub? Are you the type that jumps in the car and cranks the treble?
Lots of questions to answer I know, but it will better help us get you dialed in.
Fej
lol thanks for taking the time to help me, i do have a sub with a 500w amp for that, my head unit is the factory nav. I had them put in i dident do it my self i think they used a bar and put the speaker in the center of them. Im not sure about the crossovers i have, and as for the treb yes i have it all the way up right now seems to sound the best like that. And for music i like alot of dif things prob more into top 40 alt rock and a little hip hop. it sounds really good just i notice that on songs that i listen to on the computer then in my car is that effect left to right(maybe if you have this song you can tell me if you hear the same thing in your car,band three days grace song pain, at 2.17 you can hear his vocie go from right speaker to left speaker a few times i can hear this on my computer but not in my car?) May that could help? Anyway thanks for yor help again and talking the time to help me
You are dealing with cancellation because of the way that the speakers are installed and the car environment in general.
When you listen to a set of speakers in a room where they are right in front of you, you get the benefit of on-axis response and minimal reflections. (To a certain degree.)
When you move into the car, you have to deal with reflections from the glass, door panels, etc... The speakers are mounted in such a way that they are performing off-axis from the listener. (When mounted flat into the doors.) This changes the sound characteristics and may account for what you are taking about.
There are ways to 'fix' this... and as the guys have said, there is some trial and error. Changing the speaker's orientation such that it is more on-axis with the listener will help. This prevents the majority of the sound energy from going straight out of the speaker and reflecting on the opposite side of the car.
Think about that for a moment... the right speaker sends the sound out of the speaker and directly towards the left side. The speakers on-axis response is normally louder than off-axis... so the reflections may be as loud as the 'pure' sound coming off-axis towards your ears.
Not an ideal situation, is it?
So the thing to try to do is to reduce reflections while setting up the system such that the listener(s) are on-axis with the drivers. This is why speakers mounted low into the kick panels aimed at the listener sound so good. (Plus... the farther away the speakers are mounted from the listener, the more the path lengths are equalized... making it sound that much better due to time alignment.)
Some of this can be tweaked using active time alignment. Some can be adjusted by the position of the speaker itself. Using sound absorbent materials also helps.
There isnt' a 'hard and fast' rule... but there are a lot of guidelines based on years of trial and error done by those before you.
The most important thing to do: Have fun with it. When it stops being fun, it's no longer worth it.
You are dealing with cancellation because of the way that the speakers are installed and the car environment in general.
When you listen to a set of speakers in a room where they are right in front of you, you get the benefit of on-axis response and minimal reflections. (To a certain degree.)
When you move into the car, you have to deal with reflections from the glass, door panels, etc... The speakers are mounted in such a way that they are performing off-axis from the listener. (When mounted flat into the doors.) This changes the sound characteristics and may account for what you are taking about.
There are ways to 'fix' this... and as the guys have said, there is some trial and error. Changing the speaker's orientation such that it is more on-axis with the listener will help. This prevents the majority of the sound energy from going straight out of the speaker and reflecting on the opposite side of the car.
Think about that for a moment... the right speaker sends the sound out of the speaker and directly towards the left side. The speakers on-axis response is normally louder than off-axis... so the reflections may be as loud as the 'pure' sound coming off-axis towards your ears.
Not an ideal situation, is it?
So the thing to try to do is to reduce reflections while setting up the system such that the listener(s) are on-axis with the drivers. This is why speakers mounted low into the kick panels aimed at the listener sound so good. (Plus... the farther away the speakers are mounted from the listener, the more the path lengths are equalized... making it sound that much better due to time alignment.)
Some of this can be tweaked using active time alignment. Some can be adjusted by the position of the speaker itself. Using sound absorbent materials also helps.
There isnt' a 'hard and fast' rule... but there are a lot of guidelines based on years of trial and error done by those before you.
The most important thing to do: Have fun with it. When it stops being fun, it's no longer worth it.
Mark
Hey Mark great info. iv been playing with it and im getting better sound nice speakers. I understand what you mean about the sound bing dif in the car. How do you like the mid range in the spaekers?thanks for your help
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