Z28Johnny

I finally quit "thinking" about what stereo to put in and ordered my stuff. Here is what I'm doing:
Head unit Pioneer P700BT with ipod, usb, and bluetooth installed
Fronts: JL C5 650 6.5" that can handle 150 watts RMS
subs: two JL 10w3v3 I think these two babies will slam well
enclosure: a custom fiberglass painted quicksilver http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/C5-Co...spagenameZWDVW
amp: Alpine PDX 4.150 this will run the fronts and the two subs
head unit plate: from Mike Stanzel, black aluminum with CORVETTE in silver
door adapters: also from Mike
antenna adapter: From ebay

If it isn't enough I'll add a PDX 600.1 for the subs and a set of speakers for the rear.

Of course I'll add pics of install in the coming weeks.

What do you guys think?

And thank you for all of the awesome forum posting on here and all of the help I've received... I love this place!

Z28Johnny

Oh I forgot... I had a 0 gauge wiring kit I bought when I worked at Circuit City for cheap (I know its overkill, but is there really such a thing?). I might put in the 2 farad cap from the kit, maybe not. And I have some nice high quality RCAs (I'll run all three sets, even though I just need two for now, just incase I need them in the future.

I will also run the USB and Ipod cables into the arm rest compartment. Total cost for all the stuff in my first post came to $1673.30 and I think I spent under $100 for all the high end cables at my cost, but I don't remember exactly.

Thank you, John

NYC6

Your going to love the C5's. I have them in my doors with 150w on them. Im thinking you might want more power to the 10w's. I have a 10w in my stealthbox and have 300w going to a single. It sounds great with that power. I dont know if 150w is enough to let them shine.

Z28Johnny

I actually had a question on that part. I'm bridging 2 of channels of the amp, giving it 300 watts. I ordered two 2 ohm subs that I'll wire in series to give it a 4 ohm load. Does it divide itself back out to 150 then? If it does, then there would be no need to bridge it right? I could just hook a sub up to each channel.

Is it the same or would bridging do more? Worst case scenario is that I order the 600.1 and a set of back speakers for back fill. If I do, I'll have to hide the extra $400 expenditure.

John

SRTstyle

I would opt for the 600.1 or a 1000.1 for the subs. I don't think 300 will be enough. I used to run 2 JL 10's with the 600.1 and it did well. I'm now running the same 600.1 to a single 10 and I'm very happy with the way it sounds.

If you get a second amp, instead of investing in a second set of speakers for the rear, you may look into using the 150.4 in an active setup. I hope one of the guys on here can add more info on whether or not this is possible.

BLOWNBLUEZ06

Running speakers in series will sound different than straight or parallel. There is a slight phase shift in the signal between the speakers since you have an inductor as your voice coil. Run them straight.

pentavolvo

You should bridge it, you will get a bit more power for sure as ive tried both ways with the pdx amps. furthermore they need to be bridged so both subs are playing the same signal especially since the box is probally a common chamber

Z28Johnny

Yes the box is a common chamber. I hope the power is sufficient for the 2 subs. It is well within their power range, but definately less than the recommended optimum power.

I'll run it bridged series and see how it goes. As I said before, if it isn't enough I'll get the 600.1 to run the subs. I know it'll pound super hard with the 600.1.

John

pentavolvo

i think u will be suprised with the output

i just did a single 12 on the rear channels of a pdx4.100 bridged and it sounded great

3R1$C

Hi there - where can I order Mikes parts from?
Thanks

jdmvette

^ Mike's dead