TheKomoman

Also very common problem due to multiple grounds in the system creating a "ground loop." You'll need to buy a pair of Ground Loop Isolators and put them inline between head unit and amplifier to clean up the signal. Available at Radio Shack and all the usual online outfits.

EVRose

This is a great thread and I plan on doing this. One question. Speaker wire will need to be run from the aftermarket amps back to the speakers. Can the factory harness be used for this some how or is wiring directly to the speakers the best way to do it?

markcz

Stock wires can be used with some effort, but it's way easier and you get a better signal if you just run new wires. In C5/C6 running new wires is the easiest part of the install.

kedar

if the ADD-GM24 is a pass-through, how do people eliminate the rear speakers? simply unplugging the rear speaker wire from the back of the rear speaker? is it wise to zip tie the speaker wire to something to prevent vibration from the loose wire? do people completely remove the rear speaker or just disconnect it?

EVRose

I would think the easiest thing to do is disconnect the rear's. I plan on leaving mine connected. I'll have the rear channel running the sub amp and the rear factory speakers. I like to have that fill in sound from the back.

beb111

is it a good stuff for corvette c6 2005 with Bose premium audio amplified ?
better sound ? RPO U65
http://www.autotoys.com/x/product.ph...0&cat=0&page=1
thanks

beb111

not the good one, how can I do for a premium bose system if I want to install an aftermarket system, on my c6 2005

TLTONEY

I am also looking at a plug and play solution to install an amp and keep my factory nav.

pentavolvo

its all right in this thread

RedRider98

I have now acquired all the necessary components and will be gutting the Blose crap very soon. One question though.. I bought an Infinity Kappa Five amp thinking that I can amplify fronts, rears, and a sub. After reading this thread, it seems that due to the stock outputs I can only run a signal to amplify the fronts and a sub, not the rears. Is there any chance that the rca signals for the fronts can be split into the amp to power both fronts and rears and the sub? Or would it just sound like crapola?

markcz

Get two of these and split the front signal from the radio so you can use it on both the fronts and the sub. Connect the rears normally. Use the amp filters to make sure you only put the proper frequencies to each speaker.

Split the fronts so the sub signal is faded evenly with them since they are the dominant signal that you will tune to. Keep front/rears separated so your fade/balance still functions properly.

Also just FYI, the wire at B3 is the one to tap for the remote turn on signal for your amp. Only possible problem with using B3 is that some people don't like the amp turning on as soon as a door is opened, to get around that check out this thread

pentavolvo

i tie the sub to the rears so if its too much bass i can pull the fade forward

RedRider98

OK guys I need some help. I had everything installed last weekend but I have not been satisfied with the sound and I am getting somewhat "muddy" midbass only from the sub but no real deep lows. I had bought one of the GM24 adapters but the shop was really pushing the Audio Control LC2i unit so I went ahead and had them use it. They said they could still use the GM24 to avoid cutting the factory wiring. Not knowing enough about all this I said that is fine. Not sure if this was installed before the Bose amp but they never got behind the factory nav to do anything, all connections were made in the passenger floorboard including the LC2i unit. I also notice that the mid and high crossover on my amp doesn't seem to have any affect which also tells me that factory processing is still present in the system.

Since I already bought the LC2i, what is the best thing to do? Looking at the pics below, did he wire the high and low factory line levels into the LC2i prior to the Bose amp or after? Not sure but he might have used factory speaker wiring also in the doors instead of running new wires. If so, is that also an issue?

Here is a link to the LC2i:
http://www.audiocontrol.com/17612/64...l----LC2i.html



Thanks for the help.

Bryan

TheKomoman

I've never wired at the amp and it's really hard to tell much from that picture, but since the LCi is a box make to convert speaker outputs I think that yes, they took the lazy way out and tapped the outputs. You're getting full Bose crossover and eq - which explains why you're getting nothing from the sub because the very signals you're after for it are already gone by the time they get to the speaker outputs. Another example of lazy installers who don't research the car they're working on, make assumptions that the Vette is just like every other GM of the year, etc.

Make them do it right - refund you the LCi, put the ADD-GM24 back at the head where it belongs (it might take them 15 minutes to get to the unit, tops!) and you'll get a world of difference in result.

Good luck!

markcz

Make them undo what they did and do it the way you asked them to do it, using the FULL signal with the GM24 behind the HU.

CCIE

Great thread. Parts ordered for the GM24.

virtualdentist

After a year of ownership, finally decided to install an amp. This thread says the white wire out of the head unit to the amp is switched power but the above says the white wire is a speaker wire? Am I missing something here?

Question: can I use one of the rear speaker leads for hi power 'in' for signal or does that signal have no low end signal--does the factory amp eliminate the low frequency?

I searched and searched but not finding the informaiton I need. Should I assume the facotry bose amp does not have a sub-woffer out for such modification?

thanks for your response.

Big learning curve here, I am certain this information is somewhere in this forum but I could not find

pentavolvo

the wires at the rear speakers dont have bass. you need to do this mod or tap before the amp

markcz

The white wire at pin B3 of the big plug behind the radio is the amp trigger. If you make the harness tap the harness wire that connects to B3 (it won't be white on the harness, on mine it's pink). Plug pinouts are HERE

Silverado Desperado

Markcz,

The splitter is a female to 2 males. I am confused. What goes in the female end, and where do the 2 male ends go please?

I was thinking of installing a PAC LC1 bass control **** to be able to adjust the sub, but I am confused on what to do.

I'd like to keep the ability to fade Front to Rear, and also from Left to Right...and also be able to adjust the sub if it is too loud.

How do I do that please?


Also, is there anyone that might solder the RCA's on to an ADD-GM24 for me so that I get it right the first time please?