C6 - You don't need a Cleansweep
#1
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
C6 - You don't need a Cleansweep
I added a rather large note to the top of the C6 Audio FAQ a couple of weeks back about the C6 not requiring a Cleansweep. I did this because the issue seems to come up over & over again because installers & equipment resellers are either too lazy or poorly informed to give folks the correct information. It was pointed out in a post in the FAQ thread that I didn't include WHY you don't need the Cleansweep, which I suppose is rather significant information. So this thread serves to answer that question and will become the link in the FAQ with that big, obnoxious statement I made.
The Cleansweep is designed to be used to integrate factory systems in cars where you simply cannot get line-level, flat analog audio output. By line-level I mean RCA jack signal, not amplified speaker output. By flat I mean that there is no signal processing applied, no EQ curve, no loudness, no crossover, etc. A number of the European car companies utilitize the MOST optical system where you just can't get analog output, or even in those where you can there's a viscious EQ curve built-into the signal. The Cleansweep is designed to take the output of those kinds of systems (at the head or at the speakers, whichever) and "clean" it so that the output is flat and you can then connect it's output to an aftermarket amplifier to upgrade the system.
The C6 head units (both Bose & non-Bose) output line-level, flat signal which can be tapped in a variety of ways. I wrote this how-to a while back for those who don't mind tapping into the wires directly. If you'd rather not do that, you can get a PAC ADD-GM24 harness from Sonic Electronix, hack off the output connector and solder on some female RCA's and use it as a "T" connector and that will also work and be a bit cleaner & easier install and un-install.
OK, so we've established what the Cleansweep does and the nature of the output of the C6 head units. When you compare those two things it becomes obvious that the Cleansweep is not needed in the C6 because the type of signal the Cleansweep provides is already available as-is.
So, save your $300 and if you're using an installer print this thread to show them that they're flat-out WRONG about your car if they advised the use of a Cleansweep.
You don't need a Cleansweep in the C6!!
The Cleansweep is designed to be used to integrate factory systems in cars where you simply cannot get line-level, flat analog audio output. By line-level I mean RCA jack signal, not amplified speaker output. By flat I mean that there is no signal processing applied, no EQ curve, no loudness, no crossover, etc. A number of the European car companies utilitize the MOST optical system where you just can't get analog output, or even in those where you can there's a viscious EQ curve built-into the signal. The Cleansweep is designed to take the output of those kinds of systems (at the head or at the speakers, whichever) and "clean" it so that the output is flat and you can then connect it's output to an aftermarket amplifier to upgrade the system.
The C6 head units (both Bose & non-Bose) output line-level, flat signal which can be tapped in a variety of ways. I wrote this how-to a while back for those who don't mind tapping into the wires directly. If you'd rather not do that, you can get a PAC ADD-GM24 harness from Sonic Electronix, hack off the output connector and solder on some female RCA's and use it as a "T" connector and that will also work and be a bit cleaner & easier install and un-install.
OK, so we've established what the Cleansweep does and the nature of the output of the C6 head units. When you compare those two things it becomes obvious that the Cleansweep is not needed in the C6 because the type of signal the Cleansweep provides is already available as-is.
So, save your $300 and if you're using an installer print this thread to show them that they're flat-out WRONG about your car if they advised the use of a Cleansweep.
You don't need a Cleansweep in the C6!!
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Dijon (05-14-2021)
#3
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
We originally tested the output of the C6 head unit using a PAC AOEM-GM24 and saw a very unpleasant loudness curve. Based on that information (and ill-placed faith in PAC) I purchased a Cleansweep. But my ears were telling me something was still going on, something missing and so we tested the PAC module itself and found that the loudness curve is in the OEM-1 box that makes up the base of the AOEM-GM24 module and not the head unit. So then we tapped the wires directly using only the harness portion of that module without the OEM-1 box in the mix and the results were flat. There are threads, I believe linked in the FAQ as well, that show the steps along the way, along with the results.
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Dijon (05-14-2021)
#7
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
#10
#11
Help
I'm having a install done Friday. (99 vert) They keep telling me i need a cleansweep. I keep telling them I just need an AOEMVET1 adaptor.(possibly also a IPOD2Car adaptor)
How can I explain it to them. Maybe I should go elsewhere?
Can anyone simplify?
How can I explain it to them. Maybe I should go elsewhere?
Can anyone simplify?
#12
Safety Car
I would tell them you don't want the cleansweep and if they continue tell them your taking your car and your money someplace else. It's your money and you should not have to explain to a shop why you don't want something. Any shop that continues to push is not a place you want working on your car.
#14
Former Vendor
Member Since: Aug 2008
Location: Murfreesboro TN.
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#15
They seem like a reputable company with plenty of install experience and have said they've done vettes before...
Obvioulsy I have these two options if I proceed then..
1) Keep factory HU, add a new amp, new speakers & ipod adaptor,
NO cleansweep.
Oh I found out the their explaination for cleansweep. The Bose system outputs a non-flat signal from HU and it must be converted to flat signal before signal reaches new external amp. Also, mentioned the cleansweep will allow for an aux input for ipod therefore the ipod2car apaptor is not necessary. (Therefore, price of Cleansweep now cut in half?)
2) Remove OEM HU- Get latest HU w/features and Don't worry about non-flat signals
Let me add all your advice/experience has been very educational.
thanks again
#16
question
Im not sure where to post this question. but im hooking up a sub and amp in my 2005
and i tapped into the driver side rear speaker by just splicing the rca wire into that.
when the volume is low you can here the sub barely, and when you turn it up the sub cuts off completely.
the amp is still on but no sound at all from the sub.
Is the amp/ sub pulling too much of a signal? or not getting enough signal?
and i tapped into the driver side rear speaker by just splicing the rca wire into that.
when the volume is low you can here the sub barely, and when you turn it up the sub cuts off completely.
the amp is still on but no sound at all from the sub.
Is the amp/ sub pulling too much of a signal? or not getting enough signal?
#17
Tech Contributor
RCA signal is line-level, speaker-level voltage is a good bit higher, your amp is prob going into protection mode.
Best way to get RCA line level signal is by making one of these
Also, the full frequency signal isn't present at the rear speakers, so your sub won't be playing as much bass as it should.
Best way to get RCA line level signal is by making one of these
Also, the full frequency signal isn't present at the rear speakers, so your sub won't be playing as much bass as it should.
Last edited by markcz; 11-23-2012 at 06:16 PM.
#18
Melting Slicks
RCA signal is line-level, speaker-level voltage is a good bit higher, your amp is prob going into protection mode.
Best way to get RCA line level signal is by making one of these
Also, the full frequency signal isn't present at the rear speakers, so your sub won't be playing as much bass as it should.
Best way to get RCA line level signal is by making one of these
Also, the full frequency signal isn't present at the rear speakers, so your sub won't be playing as much bass as it should.
#19
OK so got the line out converter from my local audio shop and got it all installed, but the sub is so weak now, and doesn't have power like it did when i just tapped straight into the rear speaker wire with spliced RCA wire, can anyone shed some light on this and maybe a solution to get a louder sound like i had before.
Thanks
Thanks
#20
Tech Contributor
The only way to get a full bass signal at line level is to make the addgm24 or splice into the oem wires between radio and amp. Run RCAs from there to the amp, set your LPF around 100hz and adjust the gain until you're happy.