I have read the whole C6 Audio FAQs. There is some great info in here! Thanks to all that have taken the time to post their work and research. I still have a question on the best way to go.
I have a 2007 Coupe with NAV and Onstar. I want to keep the stock head unit and have everything work as stock, but install my own amps and speakers + sub.
I have read conflicting info on the PAC AOEM-GM24 (good or bad?), tapping into the pre-amp outputs directly (no interface device), JL Cleansweep (pricey but works good?), and even more options that are not mentioned here, like this interface device: (which I used in my last vett, an '02 Z06): AudioLink.
So from what I gather, I need to leave all the Bose amps and wiring in place to keep the functionality stock, but can pull out the speakers. then (some how - the big question!) tap into the outputs and go into my amps.
So what's the best way (best sound quality), to tap in and keep all stock functionality? Anyone with first hand experience?
best soundquality is either to buy the pac aoem gm and modify it or just splice right into the lines coming from the headunit. moddifying the pac aoem gm does basically the same thing just gives u a harness instead of splicing factory leads... cleansweep is an absolute waste of money in the c6 its just not needed
Thanks for the feedback. I had that impression from what I had been reading. If the PAC AOEM-GM24 is just being used to splice into the cables and you toss the interface, then this cable would offer the same thing: http://www.linkmeup.com/CLGB94R.htm
So if the Bose speakers are unplugged, are the Bose amps going to eventually burnout without a load on them? I wonder... maybe a load should be substituted for the missing speakers?
And another thing I just recently discovered, the center channel in the dash, will removing that channel have any adverse effect on the on-star or voice output for the Nav?
Thanks for the feedback. I had that impression from what I had been reading. If the PAC AOEM-GM24 is just being used to splice into the cables and you toss the interface, then this cable would offer the same thing: http://www.linkmeup.com/CLGB94R.htm
So if the Bose speakers are unplugged, are the Bose amps going to eventually burnout without a load on them? I wonder... maybe a load should be substituted for the missing speakers?
And another thing I just recently discovered, the center channel in the dash, will removing that channel have any adverse effect on the on-star or voice output for the Nav?
The connector on that harness does not appear to be correct. As Penta said, the best thing to do is just tap straight into the wires and solder on some female RCA's.
I don't have Onstar in my car, but removing the center channel hasn't effected the chimes and spoken NAV instructions in my car. My *guess* is that it wouldn't effect the Onstar either.
As far as the Bose goes, I don't know enough of the electrical theory, but you could always just cut the output wires from the head, tap for your RCA's and then the Bose amp won't be fed any input for it to get burned out. Alternatively you could just unhook it's input harness.
The connector on that harness does not appear to be correct. As Penta said, the best thing to do is just tap straight into the wires and solder on some female RCA's.
I have a call into them to see if they have the an updated version for C6 with my HU.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheKomoman
As far as the Bose goes, I don't know enough of the electrical theory, but you could always just cut the output wires from the head, tap for your RCA's and then the Bose amp won't be fed any input for it to get burned out. Alternatively you could just unhook it's input harness.
I was wondering if anyone has tried this. That is to just unplug the line going to the Bose Amp. I was afraid there might be some functionality that might get lost?? Would be a good to know if nothing after the head unit was required for all the features to keep working as stock (nav, heads up, on-star).
His products would not be optimal for what I want to achieve.
The NE-684V is for "interface aftermarket decks to factory amps". I'm doing the opposite. The NE-774V is a "speaker level to pre-amp level line output adapter". Not a high quality way to go. Better to go straight from the line level outputs of the head unit into the line level inputs of the new amps.
Corvette Store
C6 - Loose the Bose!
