Need some expert advice. I'm looking to upgrade my 2005 C6. I have the Bose/NAV system and am going to leave it stock. The local custom shop is wanting to install a JL or Alpine cleaner, front and rear MB Quart speakers, Memphis Amp and a JL Stealth box or equvilent MB Quart sub an custom box for the back. All the parts, door insulation and install will be $2700.
So to my question, I am trying to get the price down a bit because my budget is 2k, not that I couldn't spend the extra cash I just feel that 2k is more than enough to dramatically improve the OE system. To reduce the price I was thinking about leaving the rear speakers OE and having them do a crossover for the front. My thought for doing this was when I listen to the current set-up all I really hear is the front speakers anyway and with the new sub in the back the rear speakers wont be heard at all.
First, I know price is hard to determine with the exact specs on the components but does this sound about right for the work?
Second, and most importantly, does my idea of leaving the rear speakers stock make sense? Any reason I shouldn't do it? The shop said it is not a bad idea and the cross-over will really power up the front.
Location: Tampa Bay, Go BUCS!!!Go Rays!!!Go Lightning!!!
I had to read this three times to figure out why you were putting in all this nice equipment and keeping the head. Duh, NAV.
Okay, The common advise hear is to drop the rears for exactly the reason you mentioned. They are fill and can be lost without much, if any, penalty. I'd say by taking those two speakers out (and the associated labor) you may be able to talk them down to $2k. If not, maybe you can choose a smaller amp since you won't need to amp the rear speakers.
I had to read this three times to figure out why you were putting in all this nice equipment and keeping the head. Duh, NAV.
Okay, The common advise hear is to drop the rears for exactly the reason you mentioned. They are fill and can be lost without much, if any, penalty. I'd say by taking those two speakers out (and the associated labor) you may be able to talk them down to $2k. If not, maybe you can choose a smaller amp since you won't need to amp the rear speakers.
Good luck, oh and get and post pics.
I have had thoughts the same way. If I decide down the road to do the rears then I will want to keep the better amp. But you are right, with the cross-over I could go with a lower powered amp and save a little cash.
They're already over-pricing you by insisting on a "cleaner" which you do NOT need. There is line-level output available from the back of the NAV unit so you can run direction from that to an amp. So there's $350 saved. This is due to their ignorance and assumption of Bose factory systems, alot of the time you have to tap in at speaker level to get a signal. But quoting on assumptions without bothering to do some research is something of a pet peeve of mine and I'm doing my darnedest not to get on my soap box. You can see how much luck I'm having with that...
I would agree with leaving the rear as-is for now. The rear is for fill and is a very small part of the equation. Component speakers up front and a sub out back. A four channel amp to power the setup. Listen to that and let your ears decide if you need to go any farther... my guess is you'd be good to go.
I spent about $1500 on my self-install with amp and 2 pairs of 6.5" 2-way Focal components, plus wire and misc install necessities. You can check out the link to my install thread in my sig below to get an idea of the scope of the project.
I'm not familiar with the Bose NAV system... but I assume that there will be auto EQ adjustments from the Bose system, correct? That might screw up the sound for ya... you might consider installing a Rockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 (Based on what Komoman says, maybe not??) It will accept both RCA and speaker level inputs... I am considering it for the EQ and time alignment functions.
It will take the sound from the HU and run an auto eq adjustment on it to make the output waveform level. It also has a remote control knob for volume OR sub level control. (Either or, not both.)
I would delete the rear speakers, get some good components up front and a sub out back. 4 channel will work fine or 5 channel amp would be great, too.
I'm thinking the 3Sixty.2 will cost about $400, good components about $200 to $500 depending on brand and where you buy them. You can get a custom sub box for about $120 or so. A sub can run $100 to $300. A good amp anywhere from $200 and up. I can't see spending more than $1,500 to $1,800 on enough parts to get it to sound really good.
Installation is pretty easy, but find a pro if you aren't up to doing it yourself.
Good luck.
Mark
Last edited by Fasthotrod; 04-07-2007 at 11:53 PM.
I'm not familiar with the Bose NAV system... but I assume that there will be auto EQ adjustments from the Bose system, correct? That might screw up the sound for ya... you might consider installing a Rockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 (Based on what Komoman says, maybe not??) It will accept both RCA and speaker level inputs... I am considering it for the EQ and time alignment functions.
It will take the sound from the HU and run an auto eq adjustment on it to make the output waveform level. It also has a remote control knob for volume OR sub level control. (Either or, not both.)
I would delete the rear speakers, get some good components up front and a sub out back. 4 channel will work fine or 5 channel amp would be great, too.
I'm thinking the 3Sixty.2 will cost about $400, good components about $200 to $500 depending on brand and where you buy them. You can get a custom sub box for about $120 or so. A sub can run $100 to $300. A good amp anywhere from $200 and up. I can't see spending more than $1,500 to $1,800 on enough parts to get it to sound really good.
Installation is pretty easy, but find a pro if you aren't up to doing it yourself.
Good luck.
Mark
Mark,
The NAV head isn't Bose, it's Denso. The Bose is the amp and speakers and the amp is where all that ugly Bose equalization is. The output of the unit itself is flat, we ran it through an RTA and proved it out. There's no cleaner of any sort needed.
The NAV head isn't Bose, it's Denso. The Bose is the amp and speakers and the amp is where all that ugly Bose equalization is. The output of the unit itself is flat, we ran it through an RTA and proved it out. There's no cleaner of any sort needed.
Dan
Dan,
Thanks for the info!
Is the info on the Denso unit posted in the C6 FAQ's? I'm a curious kinda guy.... I'd like to know how that NAV HU works...
Is the info on the Denso unit posted in the C6 FAQ's? I'm a curious kinda guy.... I'd like to know how that NAV HU works...
Best regards.
Mark
Hey Mark,
That it's a Denso and perhaps it's model may be there, but that's about it. Alot of folks in C6 General have been hammering away at it, trying to get into it's setup screens to eliminate things like the lawyer nag screen, searches while in motion, etc but haven't gotten anywhere.
I did a write-up a while back on our RTA findings, but it's archived now and searching on the archives doesn't work very well. In case you're interested, here's the output from that test:
yeah, it seems if you delete the cleansweep, the rear speakers, down size the amp, and then provide the sub box (saving you money on a custom one or a jl audio box) you should fall below your target budget.
i would price out some systems elsewhere but do your research first. you have to be able to tell them what you want (size of speakers, how many, which kind of amp, how many wrms...no cleansweep etc..) You may want to even not tell them waht kind of car you have or bring a different car and see how much they'd charge you to install the same system in a camry or something like that. At the end of the haggling then you can say well i want the sytem but i'm going to end up putting it in my vette. maybe you can avoid the vette tax that way.
you can't really compare prices on the components your buying to those you find on the net. net prices will always be lower because 9 times out of 10 they are 'gray market' and dont come with a warranty. on top of that if something goes wrong with a net purchased component you'll most likely have to pay the installer again to reinstall the replacement piece.
quick question. besides the quarts, what speakers did you listen to?
Thanks everyone. Due to the generous help form CF I have found a local guy who is going to cutomize my system. No cleansweep but a better pair of speakers and custom made fiberglass boxes and a more powerful amp and still be under my budget. I'll report back on the install and results, and yes I know, PICTURES!
**** you are local to me I would totally do your install for a few bucks or a case of beer lol but I dont glass lol. If your guy is unsure on how to tap into the radio for the low level outputs let me know, because you do not need a LOC for this
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and get and post pics.
