No holds bared - C6 coupe sound - ultimate challange
Gents - we all like to golf and be able to carry our luggage to the airport. The C6 was my choice beause it is able to carry so much stuff while still cutting the performance edge. Be it incompatable, my goal is to be able to install the ultimate sound system while still being able to maintain the luggage requirement.
I have just replaced my 10in subs in the doors with a DLS two way system and replaced my 4in coax DLS in the upper door with the tweets.
The goal is classic rock and vocal jazz optimization.
GM was in the right direction with the subs in the doors. In every other execution it was typical GM compromise.
The external low level input for the HiFi output from the Nav unit is the start since it has been adressed previously.
Care to share your top end configuration thoughts for the C6 Coupe?
Last edited by Steve Germany; 02-20-2007 at 11:13 AM.
Sound deadening all through the car, this is very important.
closed cell foam, either RAAMAUDIO Ensolite, or Edead V4
Butyl mat or liquid deadener on thin panels.
With a top end system like this, everything will sound great. Jazz. Rock. Rap. Country. Folk. Instrumental. Mood. Elevator music. Swedish Black Opera Metal.
i'm going to have to say go with the CLARION DRZ9255 for the head unit. http://www.clarion.com/us/en/product...912142959.html
This will give you some great flexibility for tuning without the need for any external processors. 24 bit/ 96khz sampling, 4 way x-over and is worthy of being put in the c6 interior (will match well)
If i recall you're a focal guy but you may want to check out a scan-speak setup. If I also recall, you're a big home audiophile so you may be familiar with these speakers. I'm going totally by what i've read about these but they seem very very impressive. Definitely go with a 3 way upfront, a 10" 4" and large format tweeter could sound amazing but you need to do some massive deadening in those doors. I would stay away from the passive x-overs so you can tune the system to your car, but that will also require more chans of amplification.
I would still say you need a sub for the best results, but i'd love to have you prove me wrong.
If you were open to a sub then i'd say drop down to an 8" in the door and check out some of the tcsounds subs. I just ordered a tc-9 and will hopefully be able to fire it up soon. The tc-9 has gotten top honors from a respected member at www.diymobileaudio.com saying that it was the best sq sub he has ever heard.
the amps... I have butler tube amps and I think they sound absolutely amazing and I had them powering some inferior speakers. I can't wait to audition them on my new system. If that isn't your style there are always the zapco, audison and even steg amps that have been proven in the competition arena.
If you've got 10 inch subs in the doors where are you going to put your mids? Kicks are pretty much out of the question if you drive a stick. I don't think putting a sub in the rear is much of a compromise in the C6, especially if you deaden your doors and have a quality set of mids that will play low enough to blend well.
I think scott_fx is on the right track with the large-format tweeter idea. I don't even think the factory locations are that bad. Large format tweeter up front in the factory tweeter location, quality mids in the doors with lots of deadening and a sub in the rear. Simple, easy to tune and should cover all the bases.
I don't think the factory HU is enough if you're looking for ultimate sound either... you're going to want some processing (equalization and time alignment at a minimum). I like the Alpine W200+H701 combo personally.
Steve I agree with Scott and Dodzilla there. While your experience has been that you are getting better bass/sub performance in the doors I think you would do better considering a 7" or 8" midbass that will crossover better with a sub placed in the rear. As you have experienced, a 6.5" in the door crossed to a sub in the rear is going to leave perceived frequency response holes without a crapload of tuning/equalization.
Our door setup makes 3 ways a pain, leaving a setup as you described in the other thread about having a bass driver in the 10" opening with a coaxial in the "tweeter" position without alot of fab. One of the ideas I'm kicking around are the Dynaudio 2-ways with bigger mid-basses. They make both a 7" and an 8" 2-way system.
Your thread title says no holds barred, well there's a hold just by using the factory head, as Dodzilla mentions. I'm in the same boat and will stay with the factory head (for now anyway) but you have to know that's a compromise at from the very start. So Kale's suggestion for a processor/equalizer is practically required if you're thinking about dropping cash on a high end set of speakers & amps but driving it with the factory head. I understand why you're staying factory as I've made the same decision, you just have to keep that limiting factor in mind during the virtual money spending phase.
Something my buddy that helps me out with this stuff has said he would do if he had a C6 coupe (he sold a C4 for the downpayment on his house, the poor guy) would be to make the entire back of the coupe a false floor. This would give you all of that space for amps, airspace for subs, etc. Depending on how high you raise this false floor and where the subs are mounted this idea could still maintain your storage requirements, though obviously it will eat precious cubic feet.
Thanks guys some great advice here. I really miss the bass of the 10in subs in the doors but the smoothness of the DLS has a lot going for it. I currently have 3 JL amps that I have been very happy with (plus the installation looks great with the three across the back compartments.
The JL stealthbox is OK - a good compromise of sound and space.
The link on the 7in speakers from Scott reall has me thinking. I think that I will do the seperates 7 in and a large format tweeter to be named later. The Dayton reference are a fantastic value, but I sure love those Scan Speak speakers in the house!
a good compromise would be the seas. I ended up going with them (the paper cone version w/phase plug) based on the reviews from the same guy that recommended the tc-9 for me. The large format tweet and the high extension of the seas driver (plays nicely up to 4k and no need for a low pass x-over point, just the highpass) will give me plenty of overlap to dial in my x-over point for the best sound.
Basically what scott said. You are limited by the factory HU for sure with its output IMO.
As for the speakers I think it would be worthwhile to play around with a large format tweet in the current 4" upper door location for imaging purposes. I bet you could get something to sound really good with a bit of phasing and aiming play time from that location as it is just high enough and forward enough (I think) to be unobstructed and produce nice stage height with a bit of effort. Couple that with the previously mentioned 7/8" midbass combo (careful with the crossover point if you go with a 2 way) and it might just get you enough output to satisfy you without the sub, at least for a while Well it might if you do a bunch of sound deadening, and a bunch means a lot. Getting below about 63hz involves a lot of deadening, rattle chasing, more deadening, decoupling, more deadening ... see a trend? We do have one advantage in that fiberglass resonates less than typical door skins.
Money no object? I would say 8" revelators, a Focal Be 3" midrange, and a set of the Focal Be tweets in the pillars pushed by a couple Genesis Dual mono's, hell one side bridged per speaker. I don't even know where to go for bass heh after all of that.
Basically what scott said. You are limited by the factory HU for sure with its output IMO.
As for the speakers I think it would be worthwhile to play around with a large format tweet in the current 4" upper door location for imaging purposes. I bet you could get something to sound really good with a bit of phasing and aiming play time from that location as it is just high enough and forward enough (I think) to be unobstructed and produce nice stage height with a bit of effort. Couple that with the previously mentioned 7/8" midbass combo (careful with the crossover point if you go with a 2 way) and it might just get you enough output to satisfy you without the sub, at least for a while Well it might if you do a bunch of sound deadening, and a bunch means a lot. Getting below about 63hz involves a lot of deadening, rattle chasing, more deadening, decoupling, more deadening ... see a trend? We do have one advantage in that fiberglass resonates less than typical door skins.
Money no object? I would say 8" revelators, a Focal Be 3" midrange, and a set of the Focal Be tweets in the pillars pushed by a couple Genesis Dual mono's, hell one side bridged per speaker. I don't even know where to go for bass heh after all of that.
Fej
You make some very interesting points here Fej. On the way home today I really felt neglected by the drivers door twiddler. I'm seriously considering a three way set up with the tweets in the pillars.
I've dampend the hell out of the doors and killed all of the rattles (10in subs in the doors took care of the testing).
Scott,
I'm going to stay with the ho humm JL amps that I have. Tubes would be great but in my set up I still have to start the car to run the system. I never did find an easy aux power trigger for the system. With the engine running I can't justify the expense for the quality of the amps.
I have a JL 300/4, a 300/2 and a 250/1 all wired in right now. Any suggestions on how I should use all of this most effectively?
300x4 bridged to the midbass of your choice, the 300x2 on the tweets and sell the 250x1 and upgrade to a 500x1 and I think you would be golden power wise. 250x1 may even work depending upon your choice of routes for your sub bass. Hell with 150w per midbass you might be pretty happy with just midbass output with your doors well deadened.
I have to be honest though, I would be hard pressed with a c6 to NOT do a 3 way setup in it, especially considering the location of the factory 4" hole in the door. You may even be able to do something like an 8" + tweet in the factory 10" location and a nice midrange like a Dayton rs52 or MB Quart 2" mid in the factory 4" location.
Another option would be to check out the forums at diymobileaudio.com. Couple of guys there selling the DLS Iridium 6.3 setup. I can vouch for the 3" dome midrange .. it is really good.
300x4 bridged to the midbass of your choice, the 300x2 on the tweets and sell the 250x1 and upgrade to a 500x1 and I think you would be golden power wise. 250x1 may even work depending upon your choice of routes for your sub bass. Hell with 150w per midbass you might be pretty happy with just midbass output with your doors well deadened.
I have to be honest though, I would be hard pressed with a c6 to NOT do a 3 way setup in it, especially considering the location of the factory 4" hole in the door. You may even be able to do something like an 8" + tweet in the factory 10" location and a nice midrange like a Dayton rs52 or MB Quart 2" mid in the factory 4" location.
Another option would be to check out the forums at diymobileaudio.com. Couple of guys there selling the DLS Iridium 6.3 setup. I can vouch for the 3" dome midrange .. it is really good.
Fej
Jeff,
Hot tip - thanks - I am trying to purchase the top DLS 3 way set now.
No, right now I'm just triggering off the wiper fuse in the passenger footwell. Looks like I'm headed for a re-do of my system this spring/summer so I will add this module while I have the rest torn apart.
you may want to look into the Alpine PXE-H650 if you're planning on keeping your factory head unit. there is some nice buzz about this unit
Scott,
I really want to go passive. The space thing you know. I checked out the alpine and it really looks nice.
I have not heard back yet on the DLS three ways - dispite numerous emails. That is quite a forum over there - I'll have to start buying 10 year old scotch to keep pace with you fanatics!
Corvette Store
No holds bared - C6 coupe sound - ultimate challange
Well it might if you do a bunch of sound deadening, and a bunch means a lot. Getting below about 63hz involves a lot of deadening, rattle chasing, more deadening, decoupling, more deadening ... see a trend? We do have one advantage in that fiberglass resonates less than typical door skins.
That is quite a forum over there - I'll have to start buying 10 year old scotch to keep pace with you fanatics! 
