Tip #1: for those of you using Sub boxes that fit the cargo section and are planning on mounting an amp on your rear wall, there are a few things to consider:
- Boxes by Dave (corvette car audio) (and i think subthump as well) will take extra space at the rear requiring you to cut the rear carpeted panel. I used One of Dave's raised boxes and had to cut mine to fit:
- Also these type of boxes require the mounting board to be mounted AFTER the sub box has been set.
Tip #2: amp install on carpeted area:
for those of you with black carpet, (and even other colors) you know that it's difficult to line up holes for mounting. I find that the best way to deal with this is to put a piece of tape (preferably painters tape or masking, but duct will also work) over the general area where the amp's mounting screw will go. Use a probe with a sharp tip, a small screwdriver or other sharp object to puncture the tape where you will drill.
this is especially hand for amps with large heatsinks like the JL slash series amps
Tip #3: running new speaker wires through doors (total PITA)
For the passenger door it's not all that bad, remove the carpet and drop down the panel under the glove compartment. Thread the wire through the door side. Reach under the glove compartment and fish for the wire. it should have a different texture than any other wire there.
if you have components and are mounting your xovers somwhere besides the door (like me ) you're going to have to run 2 set of speaker wires. For this, simply use tape (preferably duct in this instance because of it's insane sticky-ness) and piggyback the new wire to the pre-run wire. then simply pull it through.
you might also want to tape off the wire in the door just to make sure you dont' accidentally pull it all the way through.
for instances where there might be resistance, even duct tape may not be enough. for thses instances take your lead wire and piggyback tape like normal but leave about an inch of extra wire outside the tape. then bend the 1 inch of extra wire back and tape it. this will secure the wires together preventing them from seperating if there's a little additional resistance.
As for the drivers side door, i was lucky enough to have a wire already threaded from sombody's poor attempt at installing an aftermarket alarm. I used it to pull the speaker wire through using the previously described methods.
all ive ever done was reached up on the prospective side used a flat head screwdriver and popped that big plate off basically giving full access into the door boot. Generally I dont even have to use a coat hanger or anything I can just feed the wire through and stick my hand inside the door and grab it. Honest to god I could feed a 4ga wire through there without much trouble.
EG, your car doesn't count since you've completely dismantled it!!
Hope you've found all the nuts and bolts to put it back together... oh, yeah, as to not hijack this thread, running wires in an assembled C5 is very easy...
i find it rediculouly easy to run wires through both doors on C5's prly the easiest car ever to run wire through doors
Yea when we first ran wires through my car, i just popped the plastic/rubber plates off. you just have to take the tape off of it sometimes to separate it from the wiring. I think the hardest part is sound deadening the car Its so time consuming.
no issues at all. The body panel will tear off before the amp comes loose. I used 4 mounting bolts with star and spring style lock washers and regular washers. it's as solid as a rock.
Corvette Store
tips, tricks and things to know. (C5 specific)
) you're going to have to run 2 set of speaker wires. For this, simply use tape (preferably duct in this instance because of it's insane sticky-ness) and piggyback the new wire to the pre-run wire. then simply pull it through. 
Door wires are very easy to run in a C5.
Its so time consuming.
