Is there a "best" way to install a V1 in a C5 Z06? I'm getting one this week and I really don't think I'll like using the suction cups that come with the V1. I've seen some threads in the C6 section using the visor mount with the invisicord, and I've also seen the mirror mount, but most of these are mounted in a C6. Will these work in a C5, and I also need to see some pics of you installs in a C5 if you have any. Thanks for any direction.
(2). I mounted my Valentine One to the left of my mirror using the provided suction cup mount. It is mounted just below the tint, and has a clear view both from the front and back to insure optimum results. http://www.spdkilz.com:80/Spdkilz/V1/V1install2.jpg
(4). With the floor mat removed we see the toe panel. Remove this by gently prying it off - remember, there are two pieces of plastic on the bottom of the toe panel that help keep it in place; don't break these off. http://www.spdkilz.com/Spdkilz/V1/V1install4.jpg
(5). This is the view of the body control module (which is the shiny box on the left). What we are looking for here is a plug and harness that GM already put in for us. You will find the plug and harness nestled on top of the BCM box. It is attached by a clip but you can slide it off (this part was a bit of pain, but be patient). http://www.spdkilz.com/Spdkilz/V1/V1install5.jpg
(6). In this picture, we can see the plug and harness freed from it's clip. Remove the harness by pushing down on the plug. The three wires on the harness are as follows:
Black = Ground
Orange = Battery (always on)
Yellow = Ignition (only on when key is on) http://www.spdkilz.com/Spdkilz/V1/V1install6.jpg
(7). Here is the wiring harness disconnected. You can see I did a few things - I took off the original black tape that was holding the three wires together. I then cut down the orange and black wire a bit to be out of the way of the yellow wire. The yellow wire is the one we are going to use - that way when the car is turned off your V1 turns off with it (obviously on the same note when you turn your car on the V1 will also turn on). If you look closely, you can see a blue connector on the yellow wire. This is a wire crimp that comes with the V1 and is used for easy installation. All you need to do is use your pliers and crimp it gently until it "clicks" into place. Use the blue connector to connect the red wire from the V1. You do not need to use the connector, however, it does make things easier. You can go ahead and do it the old fashioned way by stripping off some of the wires insulation and soldering the yellow wire to the red wire from the V1. Either way, after you have done all this be sure to wrap any connections in electrical tape to avoid short circuits. http://www.spdkilz.com/Spdkilz/V1/V1install7.jpg
(8). This view shows three things:
- The Direct Power Adapter (the black box bottom center)
- The Red power wire and Black Ground wire coming from the Direct Power Adaptor.
- The wiring harness is plugged back in. http://www.spdkilz.com/Spdkilz/V1/V1install9.jpg
(9). You can ground the V1 using the black wire from the wiring harness, however, I found it easier to use the bolt to the far right of the fuse box behind the side kick panel. Use a 15mm socket wrench (I think) to screw down the ground wire from the Direct Power Adaptor. http://www.spdkilz.com/Spdkilz/V1/V1install8.jpg
(11). Our next task is to run the included telephone cord from your V1 down to the Direct Power Adaptor (that way if there is any excess of wire you can store it behind the toe panel). As for routing the power, you will have to take off three panels if you want to do it correctly. The door sill, A pillar, and a small connector for them. With that done, we can begin routing the wire. Start where your V1 is mounted and gently slip the wire under the headliner. Continue doing this until you reach the passenger A pillar. Affix the wire in place with tape. After you have ran the wire down the A pillar, run it to the Direct Power Adaptor and plug it in. Again, be sure no wires will be pinched. http://www.spdkilz.com/Spdkilz/V1/V1install11.jpg
(12). Once you have double checked all of your connections and turned the car on to make sure everything works, you can begin putting the panels back on. Get ready to have the best radar detector save you from more tickets than you can count! (On a side note, some of these steps may vary depending on the style of your C5) http://www.spdkilz.com/Spdkilz/V1/V1install12.jpg
You beat me to it! I need to do this I am thinking of just making my own invisichord with a old phone cord and soldiering iron.
that soldering iron will look silly on your windshield next to the radar detector. I would pay the $40 for the combo kit. They've made it really easy...
I've used both mirror mounts and visor mounts for my V1. The mirror mount is solid/stable, but blocks the map reading lights under the mirror. So when the visor mount became available, I switched to the visor mount. I prefer the visor mount, but it vibrates a lot (like having your V1 at the end of a springboard). I solved that problem by fabricating a "C" clip out of sheet aluminum, painting it satin black, and attaching it using velcro on the top and bottom flanges of the "c" clip. Now the installation is rock solid. I'm using the invisicord to power my V1. This install works for me.
__________________ '04 Commemorative Edition coupe
cold air grills, Donaldson Blackwing, Euro T84 headlights, Goodridge SS brake hoses, Baer Eradi Speed brakes, Homelink sunvisor, ARH Headers, Z06 TI Exhaust, AVIC-F500BT, brake light camera
painted: hood blanket, windshield washer bottle, radiator expansion bottle, fuse box cover, and battery cover
Bah. The suction cup mount with an Invisicord works best.... mines been up for 2 years now, works beyond great. It's to the left of the mirror, right below the tint. Just clean the glass with Isopropal Alcohol, and moisten the suction cups. It can see great... I still have my license! (Oh btw, my Z is a DD)
(2). I mounted my Valentine One to the left of my mirror using the provided suction cup mount. It is mounted just below the tint, and has a clear view both from the front and back to insure optimum results. http://www.spdkilz.com:80/Spdkilz/V1/V1install2.jpg
(4). With the floor mat removed we see the toe panel. Remove this by gently prying it off - remember, there are two pieces of plastic on the bottom of the toe panel that help keep it in place; don't break these off. http://www.spdkilz.com/Spdkilz/V1/V1install4.jpg
(5). This is the view of the body control module (which is the shiny box on the left). What we are looking for here is a plug and harness that GM already put in for us. You will find the plug and harness nestled on top of the BCM box. It is attached by a clip but you can slide it off (this part was a bit of pain, but be patient). http://www.spdkilz.com/Spdkilz/V1/V1install5.jpg
(6). In this picture, we can see the plug and harness freed from it's clip. Remove the harness by pushing down on the plug. The three wires on the harness are as follows:
Black = Ground
Orange = Battery (always on)
Yellow = Ignition (only on when key is on) http://www.spdkilz.com/Spdkilz/V1/V1install6.jpg
(7). Here is the wiring harness disconnected. You can see I did a few things - I took off the original black tape that was holding the three wires together. I then cut down the orange and black wire a bit to be out of the way of the yellow wire. The yellow wire is the one we are going to use - that way when the car is turned off your V1 turns off with it (obviously on the same note when you turn your car on the V1 will also turn on). If you look closely, you can see a blue connector on the yellow wire. This is a wire crimp that comes with the V1 and is used for easy installation. All you need to do is use your pliers and crimp it gently until it "clicks" into place. Use the blue connector to connect the red wire from the V1. You do not need to use the connector, however, it does make things easier. You can go ahead and do it the old fashioned way by stripping off some of the wires insulation and soldering the yellow wire to the red wire from the V1. Either way, after you have done all this be sure to wrap any connections in electrical tape to avoid short circuits. http://www.spdkilz.com/Spdkilz/V1/V1install7.jpg
(8). This view shows three things:
- The Direct Power Adapter (the black box bottom center)
- The Red power wire and Black Ground wire coming from the Direct Power Adaptor.
- The wiring harness is plugged back in. http://www.spdkilz.com/Spdkilz/V1/V1install9.jpg
(9). You can ground the V1 using the black wire from the wiring harness, however, I found it easier to use the bolt to the far right of the fuse box behind the side kick panel. Use a 15mm socket wrench (I think) to screw down the ground wire from the Direct Power Adaptor. http://www.spdkilz.com/Spdkilz/V1/V1install8.jpg
(11). Our next task is to run the included telephone cord from your V1 down to the Direct Power Adaptor (that way if there is any excess of wire you can store it behind the toe panel). As for routing the power, you will have to take off three panels if you want to do it correctly. The door sill, A pillar, and a small connector for them. With that done, we can begin routing the wire. Start where your V1 is mounted and gently slip the wire under the headliner. Continue doing this until you reach the passenger A pillar. Affix the wire in place with tape. After you have ran the wire down the A pillar, run it to the Direct Power Adaptor and plug it in. Again, be sure no wires will be pinched. http://www.spdkilz.com/Spdkilz/V1/V1install11.jpg
(12). Once you have double checked all of your connections and turned the car on to make sure everything works, you can begin putting the panels back on. Get ready to have the best radar detector save you from more tickets than you can count! (On a side note, some of these steps may vary depending on the style of your C5) http://www.spdkilz.com/Spdkilz/V1/V1install12.jpg
Corvette Store
Installing a Vallentine One in a C5
I would pay the $40 for the combo kit. They've made it really easy...
