so I have the passive 3way I am going to use for the front stage.. For midbass duty in the doors what do you think will work better?
EU700s from eD? I found a pair of dual 2 that will work fine wired in series for a 4ohm load OR a Dayton RS-180-4 ( I think is 7") single VC 4 ohm
the crossovers sounded great in my make shift set-up. so I think ether of the above speaker will work (running 300hz down)
Also I have the 2 eD amps which I may end up using anyway.. 200x2 and 100x2 not sure which I will use for front or rear yet.. need to try the 200x2 on the woofers
I have to say for midbass/range work I would lean towards the Dayton. It has been my personal experience that the eu700 is better suited for sub bass work that it is IB in a door trying to play midbass. They also recently came up with an improved version of the eu700, but have not seen much talk about it.
Hard to go wrong with the Dayton stuff based on all of the hardcore audio DIY guys that run it, if it was crap it would be all over the boards.
BTW my Focal Polykev 7" midbass owned the eu700 in the same door application.
Fej, have you seen any talk about the newer Peerless drivers? A company grabbed them, Vifa and Scanspeak and put them all under an umbrella. They're keeping Scanspeak as a high end brand, but rolling Vifa and Peerless into just Peerless. Vifa has always been a solid inexpensive driver and been used alot in DIY home theater stuff, as well as some car stuff.
My good friend that has been doing speaker building a long time finds himself intrigued by the specs on a new 10" auto sub.
He thinks it's the right kind of driver for what will inevitably be a small-box application for my C6 vert. Was just curious if there's any buzz on the brand at DIYmobile (and too lazy at the moment to read for myself. ).
'Peerless Exclusive' is spoken of on DIYMA.. Scanspeak is another on there alot..
I heard that CDT uses Modified Vifa Drivers (MG series for CDT HD)
I was goign to buy all Vifa Mg for my x-overs, but as long as I stick with the correct impedance I will try others.
As for my midbass, I noticed that my Earthquakes are a bit deeper with my Alpine amp on my test bench over the a/d/s. Both amps are the same power approx 40w per channel. I think I will be using the Earthquake 6" I have as midbass and use my current 4 and tweeter until I find something else to try.
The panel where the mid is located is removable for 1990-1993 Vettes. I removed it, removed the carpet, and then went to town.
I cut a large hole (about 4") into that panel. I then made a baffle for the speaker, where I then stapled a loop of cardboard to, this made a cylinder. I then hit the cylinder with some fibreglass resin to give the cardboard some strength.
from there, the cylinder went into the hole, I trimmed it to fit, then built up the cylinder to better blend in with the panel. This was done with some spray foam and then covered with bondo and finished with some thin foam and covered it with fabric, in this case, I used some microfibre fake suede.
The speakers there are 4" mids, but I am pretty sure that upto a 5.25" speaker could be fitted.
That picture was taken right after I did it the first time, I redid it because I wanted to bring the mid up to level, versus pointing down.
The panel where the mid is located is removable for 1990-1993 Vettes. I removed it, removed the carpet, and then went to town.
I cut a large hole (about 4") into that panel. I then made a baffle for the speaker, where I then stapled a loop of cardboard to, this made a cylinder. I then hit the cylinder with some fibreglass resin to give the cardboard some strength.
from there, the cylinder went into the hole, I trimmed it to fit, then built up the cylinder to better blend in with the panel. This was done with some spray foam and then covered with bondo and finished with some thin foam and covered it with fabric, in this case, I used some microfibre fake suede.
The speakers there are 4" mids, but I am pretty sure that upto a 5.25" speaker could be fitted.
That picture was taken right after I did it the first time, I redid it because I wanted to bring the mid up to level, versus pointing down.
Yes I have seen your install, thanks for the info on the install, I am going with the Midbass in the door, then the 4" and tweeter in the frame rail location, being I have an 89 with the 91 interior I do not have the speaker depth liek the 91-96 cars, the placement of the speakers I have seems good for now. Also I am pretty sure a 6.5 will fit in the door..
the 4" and tweet in the frame rail? hm... that could be a bad idea.
I would be concerned that the speaker would get blocked way too much by ones foot/leg.
this may sound radical, but it might be a good idea for you: Cut out a part of the frame where you want to install the speaker, then weld metal back into it to with a large depression in it to accept the speaker. I know, it's a pain, but you have gone this far...
if I had welding equipment, I would do it myself, then I could fit any number of drivers up there.
the 4" and tweet in the frame rail? hm... that could be a bad idea.
I would be concerned that the speaker would get blocked way too much by ones foot/leg.
this may sound radical, but it might be a good idea for you: Cut out a part of the frame where you want to install the speaker, then weld metal back into it to with a large depression in it to accept the speaker. I know, it's a pain, but you have gone this far...
if I had welding equipment, I would do it myself, then I could fit any number of drivers up there.
I thought of that too, but I really don't want to mess with the frame.
Yeah the 4" in the frame will be a prblem with a leg/foot. I have also though of the 4 and 6.5 in the door, but not sure how well I could get the sound into the car for the 6.5.
The tweeter will be in the frame rail as well. I will wait and see how well it sounds, I might be okay with the bigger power I will be sending them.. the front stage area in the C4 sux
Corvette Store
Midbass for doors?
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