In searching for a subwoofer box i've found that my primary choice (a JL 12w6v2) requires more mounting depth than most boxes offer I'm also concerned about airspace in the box. Would i do better to get a dual 10" enclosure and run 2 JL 10W6v2 subs or should i go with the single 12v6?
btw: the amplifier powering the subwoofer(s) is a Rockford Fosgate Power series T3002 (838 Watt RMS roughly 1200 peak)
Actually it depends on available air space. If you have the proper amount of air space for 2 10s then yes it is the way to go. But if you do not but have anough for a single 12 the 12 is the right choice. Base your desision upon the ability to place the driver in the correct enclosure.
The mounting depth of the 10W6 is 6.9" and the 12W6 is 7.6". JL also says you need at least 0.75" of airspace under each sub for proper cooling, so how much airspace and depth do you have available for either sub?
Maybe eatrice can chime in, but I was told the industry standard for room under the magnet was 2".
Quote:
• The W6v2’s employ a pole vent to remove heat and pressure from the inside of the speaker.This vent is located around the JL Audio badge at the rear of the speaker. A minimum distance of 3/4-inch (20mm) is required between the back of the speaker and any wall of the enclosure to allow proper operation of the pole vent.
Every time I design a system I do not start off with these are the speakers, subs, or amps I am going to use. When it comes to speakers I go by what I can fit in the proper placement. I determine which sub and how many I can use by the amount of available air space. Amps I match to the speakers and available space. Ofcourse everything is designed around the idea of how the car should sound. But my main concern is SQ and I do not do many SPL installs. SPL installs need a little different approach but I always match subs to the amount of available air space.
(i'm confused as to the difference between a stealth and a flush inclosure)
The only box that would be able properly house a W6 is the raised box, as the regular ones only have 7" of depth. Also the air space for the dual 10 box is a little small for a W6. IMO I would go for the raised 12" box and put an IDMAX in it as its about the perfect volume and should be able to more move air than dual 10W6s or a single 12W6.
The only box that would be able properly house a W6 is the raised box, as the regular ones only have 7" of depth. Also the air space for the dual 10 box is a little small for a W6. IMO I would go for the raised 12" box and put an IDMAX in it as its about the perfect volume and should be able to more move air than dual 10W6s or a single 12W6.
What is an IDMAX? would porting the flush mount box have any affect on the needed air space?
What is an IDMAX? would porting the flush mount box have any affect on the needed air space?
Big awesome 12" sub, with phenomenal sound quality. I've had one for a few years and I'm trying to wedge it in the Vette.
Subwoofers require much larger enclosures if you are intending on porting them. The IDMAX for example, is very happy in 1.1-1.3 sealed, but needs 2.4 if you want to port it. Not to mention you need a big, long port, and that counts against your airspace too. I had mine in a ported box taking up the entire rear of a Tacoma extended cab. I think the box was 48x13x12, and I used a slot port.
Porting is an exact science, and a lot of things need to be taken into account.
What is an IDMAX? would porting the flush mount box have any affect on the needed air space?
Ported the enclosure would ruin it. Adding a port actually decreases the amount of available air space in the box. Anything inserted into the box displaces volume including the port and the driver.
Personally I do not use ported enclosures especially not in a hatch back. Reason for not in a hatchback is because of port noise. You will find some music does not work well with the box and it causes port noise. Imagine Darth Vader breathing heavy in the back of your car when the bass is supposed to hit.
Ported the enclosure would ruin it. Adding a port actually decreases the amount of available air space in the box. Anything inserted into the box displaces volume including the port and the driver.
Personally I do not use ported enclosures especially not in a hatch back. Reason for not in a hatchback is because of port noise. You will find some music does not work well with the box and it causes port noise. Imagine Darth Vader breathing heavy in the back of your car when the bass is supposed to hit.
100%. To overcome port noise you need a lot of surface area on the port. And the more area, the longer the port needs to be. I think my Max's port was 12x4, and 40" deep. 0 port noise.
100%. To overcome port noise you need a lot of surface area on the port. And the more area, the longer the port needs to be. I think my Max's port was 12x4, and 40" deep. 0 port noise.
The shape of the port is also important. I used flared port tubes in this box and it only had audible port noise below the tuning freq.
True. I nearly forgot. Slot ports that have a ratio of more than 9:1 will definitely have port noise.
Fortunately I overbuilt the surface area of my port somewhat. The port was roughly 14" from my head... never heard one whisper of port noise. (tuned to 28hz)
I like the look and design of that box deiaggie, nice work.
I run an IDQ 12 in my vette in .78cu^3 (made out of .5" birch) stealth style box at 2 ohms getting 250-270 watts. It does pretty well and handles most rock type bass very well. If you really want it to hit though it needs more watts and about .15 more airspace. If I had it to do all over again I would likely run dual 10's at around .5 cu^3 per.
Although part of me wants to do a 'glass box with my current 12" IDQ .. I might still do that instead and try and optimize a bit. I need to get myself a daily driver so I have the room to really put a system in the vette
Corvette Store
(2) 10" subs vs. (1) 12" sub
